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powersalt

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Posts posted by powersalt

  1. hi guys,

    I need your help in helping me decide on what brand of braided line i should go for.

    I will be loading this line into a saltiga surf spinning reel matched to a saltiga ballistic surf rod with a max breaking strain of 40lb.

    I'm currently considering berkley tracer line and power pro of 30lb test.

    Any other suggestion guys?

    cheers

    rocky

  2. hi RPL,

    mate, u seriously need a certate for built quality, durability and performance. I have mine for 2 and a half years and i fish in the salt. I've never serviced the reel and my maintenance job is sloppy, yet the reel is almost as smooth as the day i bought it, well of course under some load u'l' feel a bit of wear and tear. But that is the most robust reel i've ever had, not even the dearer reel such as steez is as tough.

    cheers

  3. gdday guys,

    as the title suggest, which one should i get? Which of the two is more durable?

    I have had a feel of both reel and as far as i know, the exist is really light and smooth. However, i doubt its durability as the stella feels more rigid. So which one do you guys recommend? which one would be the last one standing after some serious saltwater usage? Btw, is there any difference between the "japanese stella" and "stella FD"? Need help here :D

    cheers

    rocky

  4. Hi Powersalt

    With the tournement series of reels they are ment to be serviced by Daiwa. All my Exists have been back at least twice for service and I have never had a problem with any after service, thats at least 26 services! They don't have normal screws so you need a daiwa tool to open them.....

    Greg

    seems like my friend and i must be very unlucky :( .

    Just out of curiosity, isn't the Steez strictly freshwater only? If it is being used in the salt that may be a reason for the reel seizing up.

    The "steez" are made to be saltwater friendly. "Exist Steez" are meant to be freshwater only. So the steez in anyway should not jam up because of bream fishing. Its just that something is very wrong with the way the guy in daiwa serviced my reel. My reel say from 90% health dropped to 70% :( . Yes thats how bad it is.

  5. Hi guys,

    When my steez spinning reel felt not as smooth after repeated use, i sent it for service. It went to "daiwa australia" and instead of becoming better, it became worse. Very very bad.

    It is now, very rough, noisy (makes some grinding sound when turned) and at high speed, clicking metal parts could be heard. Is it normal for a reel to behave in such a way after service? especially daiwa reels?

    Daiwa australia said, that the roughness and noise will disappear after use. :1yikes: But they lied! :1badmood:

    I couldnt be bothered contacting them anymore as one of my mate's exist, after undergoing servicing from daiwa australia, had turned up with no improvement at all and its as rough as ever.

    I would therefore like to ask, does anyone know any reputable daiwa reel repairer/servicer? Or any alternative measure to save this reel? :(

    thank very much

    your help is most appreciated

    rocky

  6. Get a nitro sniper, 10'6 long, 3-6 kg, 2 pcs.

    That rod is so light, cast a mile and i believe its a graphite rod as well.

    Very suitable for bream, drummer, blackfish and whiting off the beach and rocks.

    Cost me $300, dont know about the price now.

    cheers

    rocky

  7. It also depends on what reel it is, some of the tournement reels are to be serviced by Daiwa only.

    Greg

    I see. didnt know about this.

    cheers for the info anyway. :1prop:

    Thought of having a go at it yourself?

    Quite satisfying to service your own gear.

    Best time is the evening, on the kitchen table when all the nippers have gone off to bed.

    If you're not confident that you will get it back together as it was originally, make a note of each part as you dissasemble the reel. Better still, take photographs on the digital camera, step by step, part by part.

    Just go easy on the grease.

    Good luck. :thumbup:

    yea, i've tried servicing my own reel a few times but those were the some cheapo reels. Definitely felt satisfying when the reel becomes smoother. However, after a few weeks, the smoothness was no longer there. :1badmood: Nevertheless, its a fun thing to do :1prop: .

    cheers for the advise anyway

  8. basically no special reason at all its just that its good to know some other reliable places in sydney that can do reel service good. so yea, its basically just pure curiosity.

    anybody know any reliable places?

  9. hi guys,

    i'm in need of advise in terms of buying sp for jewies. What do you guys reckon is the best make and model for jewie plastics? What's the best retrieve to lure these fishes using sp? In addition to that, what sort of condition is best to fish for these fishes using plastics?

    your help is greatly appreciated

    thanks

  10. First of all cheers for the input guys. However, i dun intend to fish with a float or a balloon. :(

    The thing is i'm probably gonna fish from some wharf to target jewies or perhaps anything thats willing to take a livie. Thus, i need the livie to remain at a specific spot without itself swimming away from a strike zone. Therefore i need a a sinker to keep that livie at around that position. However, this is not so simple, because of tangled lines after awhile (struggling livie). So is there any good rig that will help in bottom fishing from landbased using a livie? :biggrin2:

    thank you

  11. Hi guys,

    i'm in need of some advise as to what rig is best for landbased live baiting. I've always had problems with tangles when live baiting using sinkers :( . The live bait that will be used are small fishes, yellowtails, slimy macs, etc. Is there any way that this problem can be solved?

    your help will be most appreciated

    thanks

  12. hi guys,

    First of all, to be more specific, this is going to be about spinning rods of lets say 6'9-7'2 foot in length.

    Can i say that a taper of a rod is the steepness of the rod from the butt to its tip? or something else?

    If it is as above, does it mean that a steeper rod will have a faster action? And a rod that is less steep, a slower action? If this is true, why are some rods, e.g. gloomis imx 842 slate, have a blank that is not as steep as others and rated as a fast action rod? It feels really wimpy, but is rated as fast, its strange.

    Now, this bring up a new question, can a fast action rod be wimpy instead of crisp, or must a fast action rod be crisp?

    pardon me for the amateur questions

    your help will be most aprreciated

    thanks :beersmile:

    rocky

  13. Another option for you mate could be to go with some hidden weight jigheads.

    That way the plastics will be balanced while sinking and you will get greater action than one that had the same weight jighead on the nose of the plastic.

    IFS

    gd idea. i will give it a try nxt time.

    cheers

    G'day mate,

    In deep water give drop shotting a go. It's kind of like fishing a paternosta rig except the hook (not a jig head) is tied to a flouro leader with a polamar knot with the weight on the bottom.

    Outside in deeper water, I fish 3 and 4 inch Bass Minnows this way and it works really well, you still get great action on the plastic by lifting and sharply dropping the rig so the sinker hits the bottom. It looks like a couple of bait fish scared out of their wits!!!! :biggrin2:

    Unfortunately all I got on the weekend outside was sargent baker and wrass but the system definately works.

    Here's a link that explains drop shotting

    http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/drop-shot.html

    Give it a go... it's a great way to fish plastics in deeper water.

    Cheers

    David.

    i wonder if this drop shotting method works for landbased fisho casting from a gradually sloping bank into deeper water? Cause from what i've seen it requires direct vertical jigging like from a boat or from a rock ledge. i dont really know though. More clarification needed. :1prop:

    cheers mate

  14. i agree iceman and thats the way i fish with the lighter jigheads. use the current to help you keep them down. if the current is rushing i sometimes also walk along with the current slowly working the sp while land based. if in a boat i flick into the current too and use it to help keep the sp down also. i find this requires alot more flicking but i have still caught alot using this way (if that makes sense)

    good luck

    yep that definitely make sense. Unfortunately it can be very difficult walking parallel along the current in places where space are tight. so maybe its a better idea for me to change the type of plastic such as into paddle tail or that wriggler tails.

    :biggrin2:

    anyways cheers mates

  15. Long casts into the current and work your sp back towards you using the current to keep it down

    I use 1.5gm squidgy finesse heads all the time in 30ft to 40ft of water in reasonable current

    Also when fishing deep look for eddies this is where a lot of bream will sit I like fishing the last couple of hours of the runout when fishing this way

    When fishing pilons in deep water I dont worry about the depth so much as the bream arent on the bottom but somewhere higher up An example of this is I have caught bream in those areas using 1/28oz HWS jigheads It can be a matter of trying different weights without going to heavy to find what depth the bream are at

    How if in my case i'm fishing on the banks, thus casting parallel towards the current? it doesnt seems that the current will help me push the plastic down, instead sweep it to the side. This is why i'm having so much trouble keeping my plastic in strike zone.

    but cheers for the help though, does help me better understand plastic fishing :thumbup:

    I used to fish small plastics back home in Scotland for Pollock in deep water off the rocks. I would fish them on a unweighted hook, 2m of clear, memory free leader then a small swivel and a ball sinker of whatever size the depth/current demanded to get it to the bottom. The long trace gives you a very natural action, use a slow steady retrive, don't jig it. To cast just set the hook point gently into the sinker, it will come out when it hits the water, also means the hook wouln't snag on the rocks behind you if space is tight.

    Thats what I do, hope it helps

    Good luck :1fishing1:

    Alasdair

    cheers mate :biggrin2:

  16. hi guys,

    I've always had this problem of using 3 inch plastic or smaller of especially stickbait types on water deeper than say, 2-3m. As most people know, altering the weight of jig heads could produce different action on the plastic and this could sometimes mean fish or no fish.

    So, suppose there is this deep place say like 6-7 metres, with a slight current enough to push away a 1.5grm jig head on a 3 inch bass minnow that would otherwise fish very well in 2-3 metres of water, imparting beautiful action, how can i fish in this deeper water? changing into larger tails? I dun think i will, because there are only small breams ard there.

    Another scenario, also using a stickbait. This time it is without current and also using 1.5grm jig head on 3 inch tail. However, the location is amongst pylons in deep waters. Say 10-13 metres. It would take ages for the plastic to sink. But if extra weight is added, yes it would rocket down, but the action would be different.

    So my question is, how do people fish the deeper waters using such a small plastic?

    Or perhaps smaller plastics are not meant to be fished in deeper waters?

    thank you

  17. hi rockhoppin,

    how do you rig up the crab? what rig is best for the blue brute? And as to what i know, if you burley, there will be lots of tiddlers hanging around the rocks. How do u manage to sneak your bait away from these bait stealers, especially crabs?

    cheers mate :biggrin2:

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