BWV
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Posts posted by BWV
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They are illegal, so much more goes into the navigation light other than being red, green or white. Lights give specific angles and luminosity to aid in collision avoidance at night and if they don't display the correct angle your asking for trouble.
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Enjoy the south easterlies
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Ok guys, it's a antiventilation plate, not a cavitation plate! Your AV plate should only be getting splashed when running, not in the water. Your engine rpm's will increase as height is increased, as drag is reduced, therefore load is reduced allowing the engine to operate with less load and more efficiency. You want your RPM's 200rpm off the manufacturers stated maximum rpm, eg if max is 6000rpm you want 5800rpm loaded. This will give you the best all round proformance and longevity of your outboard.
If you feel the need to bolt any foils, permatrims etc to your outboard something else is wrong. They only hide the symptoms of other problems and increase drag.
This topic has been done to death on all forums but there is so much wrong information out there because a friend of a friend said to do this or that, be careful which info you choose to run with because you'll end up in trouble.
FYI, every outboard powered boat I have owned I have lifted the engine and on all of my friends boats we have lifted the engines. They are all mounted low.
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Your under reving, if your rev range is 5000/5500-6000rpm you want it reving at 5800rpm under normal load at full power, at 5800rpm you'll have the best balance between engine load, speed and efficiency. You should always aim for 200rpm less than the stated maximum figure that under normal load so when light you won't exceed the maximum revs for your engine. On the flip side overloading your engine, as in not be able to achieve the given rev range will do just as much damage to the engine.
For engine height, you want you antiventilation plate getting splashed by the spay not dragging though the water, every boat I have ever seen that is new has the engine mounted far too low.
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Got to be in water to get a reading.
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I would be using Marine Grade Ply that is stamped BS1080 or better, it's a Lloyds approved boat building ply.H
(Timber)
- What do you think if I use BB grade Marine Ply to rebuild the Cabin and treat with stain and epoxy resin afterward? (Due to the fact the price for using AA grade is 4times more expensive and I personally believe cabin does not contact water as much as hull. Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong because I am more than happy to take advises)
- How adhesive is epoxy resin + fiberglass on timber hull?
- Marine Varnish VS Epoxy Resin, who will win? (Would like to stain cabin after rebuild and then varnish or epoxy resin)
I would like to say hi to everyone as well, just joined the forum not long ago, but have learned a lot from the other posts.
Regards,
Mal
Epoxy + fibreglass mat on timber hull is strong as any boat building material out there and have half the weight of production boat for the same strength. I would be building the cabin out of ply the wetting it out with epoxy to seal the timber and then coating it in epoxy and fibreglass mat and the cabin will last for years to come, the finish you want will depend on how much sanding and filling you want to do. The fibreglass mat will become clear when wetted out with epoxy and stay clear. Don't be stingy with the epoxy as you will have voids in the glass.
Are you familiar the the construction method "cold molding"? If not I suggest you read the relevant parts of the Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction book, that will explain everything you could ever want.
Also DO NOT stain any of the timber or put anything else on it for that matter prior to applying the epoxy and fibreglass.
Just aim to encapsulate all timbers in epoxy. Epoxy if far more durable than varnish. But to get the old ski boat varnish look if that's what your after they have somewhere between 80-90 coats of varnish!
Rushing to write this with 2 screaming kids so if it is some what confusing I apologise in advance.
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The only real way is to have the fuel polished, tanks and lines cleaned. Additives do work to a certain degree but become extremely expensive for large amounts of fuel. It's relatively east to rig up a polishing system onboard if you want to go down that path if you have more than one tank. Going through the same problem as we speak on a delivery to QLD only getting about 20 mins between filter changes on both main engines. Boat is now at Port Hacking waiting to get fuel and a few other problems rectified.
If you want an additive to lubricate injectors and pumps etc due to the ultra low sulphur fuels your best bet is mineral 2 stroke outboard oil at 200:1, works extremely well and is miles ahead in price compared to other additives if bought in large amounts.
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not correct, the prop size sounds about right, give or take.If it rev's out to 5000 - 6000rpm in netural then it is the prop.
it could be numerous things but start simple and connect it is another fuel source. Check linkages. Check filters and fuel line, it maybe starved of fuel under load. Electrical problems usually happens at all revs but not always.
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Check with the boat manufacturer, they will specify either roller or bunks and if you use the wrong one you will loose any hull warranty. They may say it doesn't matter.
Rollers for GRP boats and bunks for alloy is BS, but loading points are critical.
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75-115hp outboards are extremely difficult to come by second hand, nearly everyone wants them so you'll be paying nearly brand new prices for a relatively new second hand 90hp. Not saying it won't happen but have been down this path before, it was frustrating to say the least.
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Leave it bare, aluminium naturally oxidises and that layer of oxidisation that forms will provide a protective barrier against the elements and protect the alloy under neath it. Down side is it can look ordinary.
You can constantly polish the boat if you prefer to maintain a shine.
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Spent plenty of time in Tas, your boat will be fine. Id rather fibreglass in just about any conditions especially in a place that gets so f¥€keen cold.
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Ive got used 1.5 tonne axles, hubs, bearings, u bolts and fishplates in good nick too. Pm me if your interested.
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By definition "underway" means, that a vessel is not at anchor, or made fast to the shore, or aground. Correct whilst drifting you are considered to be underway and must obey the Collision regs.The way I understand it if your not anchored you are underway, that includes drifting. So whilst drifting you must give way to sail ect. Seems rediculous you couldn't hang over the side whilst drifting. I haven't read the link yet.
We have become such a nanny state where they feel they to regulate us to the point that anything other than sitting in the boat will become an offence. It's frustrating that common sense no longer applies to anything, just introduce more legislation to turn everybody into a robot or fine them if they don't comply. This reminds me of the Kerry Packer response into the senate inquiry corporate tax evasion, if you want to introduce more legislation, repeal an out dated one first.
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Read your manual, it should list what to do and when it is required. A lot depends on the conditions you operate it as well.
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You need to move it, you have turbulence from the lifting strake that is affecting performance. What about under the outboard pod?
If its spraying water lift it up.
Mount it horizontally, not on the same angle as the hull.
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The only way to seal it 100% is too make the hole oversize, which you have. Then get a bigger drill bit again and slightly counter sink the hole, but run the bit backwards so it doesn't chip the gelcoat then the fill the hole with epoxy resin and re drill with a smaller diameter drill and run the cable though it. Once the cable is all run fill the hole with sikaflex to provide another barrier against water intrusion and prevent the cable chaffing.
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Hydrofoils just mask other problems. They are not needed if you are set up correctly. Eg engine hight, prop, weight distribution or under powered.
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You'll scratch them in the pipe unless they are covered with fabric on them or wrap them in a towel. Ones they are scratched they a RS.
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Plexus to clean, roll them carefully with no creases or lay the flat if you have the room.
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I think your speedo is off mate, unless 60hp outboards are spinning 19-21 pitch props at 6000rpm these days.Oh really? Can link you a video then after you see it come back here and have an apology?
What pitch prop and what rpm are you seeing at the "45mph"?
Gearbox ratio 2.33?
An educated guess would put your top speed around 35mph with 14-16 pitch props.
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That speeds off my speedo on my dash which we worked out to be very accurate with a speed/distance test.
With the right trim I'm sure it's got more!
It's a Mercury Bigfoot, so has the gear size of a 115hp although it's only a 60hp. I even got a vid from sats session! I'll try and upload.
45mph, extremely doubtful, maybe kilometres per hr but not miles.
Is my motor to low when planning
in Boating
Posted
It’s low, your antiventilation plate (bottom plate)should be clear of the water when planning, and only getting splashed. Engines revs will increase as engine is raised as load is reduced. Do a search on this topic, it’s been covered before.