mike82
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Posts posted by mike82
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At least you've been getting out there and giving it a crack while relaxing!
P.s Few people will out-fish Mick (unless he gets sea sick!
) If he was using his tassie "backwards" sideways or upside down, copy it! -
Hi raiders
I need to purchase a battery to start my 25hp outboard and don't know which size would be adequate. I have lights also which are led so they don't draw much.
Thanks, fishingphase.
Hi fishingphase, will your outboard be charging the battery?
If you do overnighters with lights, bait pump, sounder etc running I would suggest a (century) NS70M battery. Overkill for starting your 25hp but will give you plenty of reserve for accessory run time.
If you mainly want it for starting and don't plan on running many accessories for longish periods of time and also want to keep the weight down then go for a D23RM (century) battery.
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Hay PREDATOR. Have you got standard globe type lights or led's?
What happens when you put a blinker on and put your foot on the brake at the same time?
If the brake lamp or all stop/tail/flash stop working, or all the globes flash very dimly, it will be an earthing problem.
PM sent.
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Just wondering has anyone taken up the there $150 no questions ask ,hand the broken rod in and new rod on the spot from were you bought the rod. Now the reason i ask is that a number of Tackle stores i have been to ,the return price varies at $150 and even $250 on different model rods.Really had that felling of different face different price.
Yep I have! Trod on one, snapped the top 1/3 off and was replaced no q's asked but had to pay about $180 for a $500 dollar rod.
About a year ago they changed the expeditor rates to vary in accordance with RRP of their rods (instead of being a flat rate). So yes the price will vary. All the G.Loomis suppliers will have a replacement price manual.
So if you intend to buy one ask the supplier what the expeditor is on that exact model (hopefully you never have to use it!)
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Gday raiders
Just a quick quistion my trailer light connector always rust is there anything you can do to prevent this .
the last one that i put on i siliconed all up but still rusted just want to no if any one has any ideas on stopping this
thanks mik
Which "connector" are you referring to? The 7 pin plug you connect to the car? If so check the socket on your car, if this is dirty and/or rusty it will affect the plug on the trailer in no time.
Also if the wiring is corroded at all when you fit a new plug this can also affect it's performance. A thin film of electrical contact grease can also prevent corrosion but the downside is that it can trap dirt and dust in the grease.
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Nice session! Sounds like your really loving it.
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Tks for your reply. Can I just check one point.
To clarify your comments , if the negative battery lead is disconnected then there will be no power to the radio or any other item.
Am I then correct in saying that when the multimeter is connected , as per your instructions , along with a combination of the setting (10A)& the battery in the multimeter it can detect the amount of amps being drawn by the radio clock even though there is no actual power going to the radio
Geoff
The above is correct with the red lead swapped (to the 10A position), the multimeter set to 10A then put in series with the red lead (of the multimeter) on the terminal post and the black to the (removed) battery cable.
This creates the circuit as it runs through the multimeter.
If the battery in the boat is flat, you will get a slightly lower multimeter reading than with a fully charged battery.
Don't attempt to start the engine with the meter in as its internals are only rated to about 10A.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks aquaman! I left at around 1pm, there was a couple of gents arriving as i was packing up at the carpark. Was that you???
I was going to fish the western bank in the early afternoon, but headed off instead.
I fished last week, and didn't get a touch nor see any fish moving.
The air pressure yesterday was around 998, which going off what my fishing berometer says, is poor conditions.
To be honest, I'm not sure if it makes any difference.
I'm not sure if there is any truth to the barometric air pressure with Trout's swim bladder???
Anyway, It said poor conditions yesterday, and i caught so???
No that was not me. I would have been well round the side by then. I did come across those gents about 1/2 hr later. As well as a large group pulling rocks away from the dam wall trying to catch a yabbie......not very smart pulling rocks away from the bottom of a big rock wall??
Im unsure of the barometric conditions effect on trout, never taken a lot of notice (maybe I should start writing conditions/catch rates down) I just go when I can!
Delta Electricity pumps water from Lake Lyall to Lake wallis (at the power station) then up to TCD. They then let TCD gravity feed or pump down to lake wallis when needed. I don't think they pump from TCD back down to Lyall?
Cheers.
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Nice pair of fish!
I was out there yesterday as well (although a lot later), and couldn't believe how much it had dropped in the last few months!
Walked the western bank and only saw one fish, and heaps of yabbie claws scattered along the bank.
Fished with a celter for a while then for a couple of hours (after I noticed the yabbie claws) with a squdgie pro lobby hopping close to the bottom but no hits or follows so ended up calling it a nice day out.
Well done!
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We what a pity we didnt have a charter on Sunday and came home. The three boats that we know caught plenty of fish. One boat got 14 marlin for the day, another 10 & another 5.
We still have this Sunday available and the weather looks great at this stage. If you keen call me on 0407113349
Cheers Damo
Cant believe no one has taken you up yet!
This is the best time to fish port before it gets inundated by the tourney's in a couple of weeks!
Wish I could!!! Really miss fishing up there this time of year and the fun of the shootout/inter-club
Good luck guys!
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Talk to the site sponsors Huett Marine. Contact details HERE.
Let them diagnose it first before spending big dollars.
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gudday guys i have a teleflex 7000rpm tacho it has a light in it there is a terminal for the light which i think is the positive but i can'tfind where to hook the negative wire
What does the back of the Tach look like? What are the terminals labelled?
It may have 4 terminal posts: send-tach wire, ign-ignition positive, gnd-ground/earth wire, lt-light positive. If thats the case you probably won't have to have a separate negative wire for the light. It will run from the gnd terminal to the globe within the light or it may just earth the case of the gauge.
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Thanks, I remember what the sun looks like now!
Brilliant photos Ray!
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Hey Raiders,
Right now i troll out of my boat which is a 5.2m centre console.
I troll 5 lines, no outriggers.
My set up usually consists of centre rod with a jethead positioned shot gun and i have this about 30 metres back.
I have one squidgy garfish with a skirted pusher over it on the far left and another normal skirted lure on the far right.
On the inner left and right I have 2 rapala x wrap or yozuri deep diving minnows which are about 5 washes back.
I dont get any tangles which I am happy about but am just wondering if anyone has any feedback on my spread. This spread is new so havent had much time to raise any fish on it.
Do you hook marlin on the williamson garfish with the skirt over them? also how well do deep diving minnows go on marlin?
Trolling speed is 8km/ph
Any feedback would be good
Cheers, Stan
C
Not sure bout the deep divers for marlin?
But I have got a couple on the Williamson blue garfish with the pink skirt over the top in the shotgun position. I would probably suggest re rigging them from the get go as they aren't particularly strong.
As for speed, Depends on your boat and conditions but Generally between 5 - 10knots (about 8knots (not km / ph) is usually ideal) Im no expert but I think 8km/hr is a bit too slow? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
As long as the lures are not sitting under the surface all the time (too slow) but not bouncing out of the water all the time (too fast) you should be ok. You want the lure to be "swimming" nicely with a nice trail of "smoke" (bubbles) behind.
Like I said I'm no expert but hope this helps.
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Hi mate
I personally think the 455 escape is a great boat, it's the same shape/very similar to a more modern 455/460 coast runner. Considering the boat is in good condition that is a good price, BUT, the 40hp will be underpowered, with 3 or 4 people you would find it hard to plane. By yourself i'm sure it'll be okay, just some food for thought. Look at a few boats, open, runabouts etc for under 10k, look up and find what suits you best !
I agree with quintrex101,
I own a 455 coast runner with a 2 stroke 60hp merc (maximum Hp for the hull) and sometimes wish it had more power.
Especially with a full tank of fuel, 2 up, ice, gear and full bait tank, when heading a bit offshore definitely would like some more horse powers!
Also when comparing between models, the C.V model doesn't have as much flotation and doesn't have other options like the non C.V model.
Just something to keep in mind.
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silly question, but can i use wiring which is rated 10amp for my cabin led light. the light has really thin wire and i need to connect the other wiring (10amps) to run to my switch box i know its over kill but thats all they had a boat shop. Also is 15amp wiring ok if i use it to connect a cigarette socket.
Yes 10A wiring will be fine for your cabin LED as it would probably only draw >0.5A whilst it is on. As stated above you must use the correct size fuse for the application.
As for the cigarette socket it depends on what accessories you wish to plug into it and the length of the cable you will be running. 15A will be fine for most things (phone charges lights etc.) if the length of cable is not too long as you will suffer voltage drop in long lengths of cable.
Don't forget that the earth must also be of an equal/adequate size for the application.
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I use a good quality lanolin aerosol spray every couple of months or so on my Quintrex (Dumbier) trailer brake cable.
It's now 6yrs old and only just showing some surface rust on the cut ends of the cable, and no other dramas at all.
(obviously keep it away from brake discs, pads and callipers)
I also give the whole trailer a spray with the stuff and the coating lasts for months.
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Well done, And welcome to the addiction!
Plenty of info, tips and tricks on Fishraider (also very addictive!)
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I have a 2005 Quintrex 455 coast runner which I bought new. Shortly after purchase I fitted a 2nd battery and new isolator switch and I had the same deal, all earth wires bolted to the hull.
After now working on quite a few Quintrex and other brands of alloy hulls they are all the same.
Unfortunately just moving these wires to an insulated distribution block will not solve the issue as the main earth lead runs to the engine block for the starter and the engine is bolted to the hull with metal bolts, therefore the hull will always be "earthed" unless you somehow insulated the engine entirely from the hull.
In this case with the negative terminal on your vhf disconnected and your antenna cable connected it will still work due to the unit earthing through the shielding in the co-ax antenna cable, this in not an indication of a faulty unit.
As for it almost cutting the radio and sounder out, thoroughly check your main battery feed to the front of the boat and all fuse holders for corrosion as well as all earths from back to front of the boat.
Good luck and yes my paint and wiring is as poor quality as every other quinny and is blistering around all stainless fittings that were dealer fitted. I think this is the norm from 90% of dealers just slapping them together for a profit.
Not having to be a qualified Auto Electrician to wire a boat for sale, does explain a lot of wiring that I have seen over the years...... But some are better than others.
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Nice report Stan!
It sure is a nice place to spend an afternoon.Bet you've well and truly got the bass bug now. Hope the big'uns start to come out to play soon for an upgrade!
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Hi Pirate and Raiders,
I have heard this about concrete and batteries before but have never been able to get an explanation as to why.
Can anyone confirm this and provide a reasonable explanation?
Regards
Kram
There is a link to one school of thought in this thread HERE
I still won't put my batteries on concrete though.
In the mountains it can get quite cold at night and hot during the day, I think that the temperature difference between the concrete and ambient temperature might have something to do with it? But not proven in any any way other than personal experience.
It may Just be a myth too!
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Hi Aquaman
Its a calcium battery. Ideally I would like one charger that I can hook all 4 batteries up to and then have them charged from a solar cell on the roof.
Cheers
Daniel
Whilst you could have all batteries hooked up at once you can run into dramas with all the the batteries being different sizes (CCA and a/h) ratings, and calcium alongside led acid (calcium batteries like a higher and longer charge rate than a standard led acid).
You might find that the calcium never reaches a true full charge. The age and condition of each individual battery will also effect results.
When joining all batteries together like this the "bank" will only be as good as the lowest battery, create an imbalance and drag all the others down to its level. I wouldn't suggest running them all off just a solar panel as this will not condition the batteries in storage just charge them when the sun is out. To do this you would also need a solar regulator to regulate the voltage being supplied to avoid "boiling" the batteries but once again would be better suited to a bank of batteries that are all alike.
You might be better off running each individual led acid battery off their own basic charger/maintainer (you might get away with paring the two car batteries up if they are very similar) and running a ctek on the calcium deep cycle especially if your running an electric motor off it and flattening it out often.
Once the charger goes into matinence mode it will draw very little power and can/should be left plugged in "maintaining" the battery.
Whilst solar is great, unfortunately with multiple batteries of different sizes like this application I wouldn't recommend it to keep the batteries in optimum condition.
Just an idea...
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I have 4 batteries in my garage, 3x lead acide (2 in cars and 1 in boat for outboard) and 1 deep cycle for the electric. It occured to me the other day that this represents about $600 worth of batteries! I know to keep them alive I have to trickle charge them when not in use, but I also seem to remember that Deep cycle and Lead acid require different types of charging and maintance.
What can other raiders suggest?
What type (construction) of deep cycle battery is it? Deep cycle batteries can be in the form of standard lead acid / Absorbed glass matt / gel / calcium constructions.
That is where the difference comes in, not so much that it is a deep cycle battery in itself.
I would recommend (although a bit expensive) a quality Ctek charger. Most of these ( you will need to select one based on CCA or Amp Hours of your biggest battery) can be changed by a simple press of the button to suit the different constructions, and are designed to give the battery the correct charge as well as maintaining it for optimum performance.
Hope this helps a bit.
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"The man had a history of committing six previous offences of driving a PWC while unlicensed "
"suspended on condition of good behaviour."
Really? Six previous offences and he has displayed good behaviour? Lol!
) If he was using his tassie "backwards" sideways or upside down, copy it!
New battery
in Boating
Posted
Good quality marine batteries are constructed very differently from automotive batteries. They are designed and built with the different application and different style of usage in mind.
A good quality marine battery is more expensive than a car battery of the same size because:
1: They have sheets of fibreglass separating the plates for vibration resistance.
2: They have a different plate design also for vibration resistance but more so to suit the application and "cycling" of a marine battery where after starting there is not a large alternator to recover the battery (like in a car) so they are designed to charge faster.
3: Most will be a semi deep cycle construction. Whilst not a purpose deep cycle they will be built to handle repetitive light charge/discharge cycles.
An automotive battery is designed to provide a large staring current in a short burst then be recharged by the alternator before doing it all over again.
While a boat battery is designed to provide the start current, get a light charge, then provide power for lights, radios, sounders, bait pumps etc while anchor, then provide a start current and accept a light charge current as fast as possible on the way home.
So while a car battery will work, there is a reason why they design and make a marine battery, and why they are more expensive, and why they will last longer.