bizzyb
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Posts posted by bizzyb
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2 hours ago, zmk1962 said:
I disconnect my fuel line towards the end of the flushing procedure and let the motor run the carbie dry. Very little gunk build up with this procedure.
Cheers Zoran
No issues? I was worried that running it dry on fuel can do damage?
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Hey everyone.
Sorry for being slack and not getting back to you with an update.
I took the pin and carby to the lbs. Nothing wrong with the pin. However the carby was very dirty apparently. He cleaned it up and once everything went back together, we finally have good starting!
I haven't tried it at 4am in 5deg weather yet but I suspect it will be ok now.
Based on this I imagine a combination of poor maintenance from previous owner and lack of use causing fuel to sit in the bowl for long periods has gunked everything up.
For anyone having the same problems, next time id probably spray it down with carby cleaner first and see if that clears up the problem.
These days we run the motor every 2 weeks to endure no old fuel building up.
Thanks to everyone for all your advice!
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On 11/12/2017 at 4:18 PM, zmk1962 said:
Back home now and able to work of laptop (better browsing than on iPhone).
Here's a great clip on Yamaha Prime Start diagnosis and repair....
Z
This guy is indeed awesome! So detailed yet so natural.
We'll, I've tested the pin, resistance was a bit higher than suggested in this particular video, however the pin did move. The only thing I could see amiss was some yellowish gunk caking the pin hixh I cleaned off.
I've also taken the #2 carby off and it looks very clean except for some black stuff around the rim of the membrane (sorry I forgot to take a photo. This could be a carbon build up or just the gasket deteriorated.
Given I couldn't see anything glaringly obvious, I'm going to take these two parts to the Yamaha service shop today and see if they can find something I couldn't (or at least to get a new gasket).
Failing that, I'm not sure what else could be the matter. The only additional clue is that the boys said that after realising the fuel tank air valve was closed during the last attempted startup they took the whole cap off and then she started.
This could just be coincidence tho as they had already been trying for a while before taking this action.
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On 12/12/2017 at 12:09 PM, Snowyandsalty said:
if you are in the shire, I could swing past and give you a hand sometime if you like.
hope this helps
Corey.
Thanks so much for the offer Corey, however I am in Penrith and the boat is currently in Ingleburn, both a long way from the shire!
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15 hours ago, zmk1962 said:
Back home now and able to work of laptop (better browsing than on iPhone).
Here's a great clip on Yamaha Prime Start diagnosis and repair....
Z
Wow, thanks Zoran.
Yes, you are right, it's a prime start (as can be seen in the pic I posted, I have the red switch thingie) and there are no butterfly's or choke options on the remote.
Looks like testing the pin is step one. Unfortunately I'm flat out now and won't get a chance to test before the boys take it away for 10 days over Xmas. Once I join up with them in the new year I'll be able to have a fiddle with it and see what I can find out. It will be a good test too since they will be out in it most days and that will give us an idea whether it's purely cold starting that's the problem, or because of sitting around for weeks without being used.
Thanks again! I'll post back once I've had a chance to test.
Keen to see the results of your test Rick.
P.s. I've given the battery a full recharge and recondition (took 24hrs on a 12ah charger) but I haven't put it back on the boat yet. That may have an impact if low voltage impacts the pin.
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23 minutes ago, rickmarlin62 said:
bizzy does your carbies have choke butterflys..rick
I'm pretty sure no, but I'll double check in the morning. From memory it looks like your pic.
Izzy
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37 minutes ago, Hateanchors said:
One question. If you leave the engine for just a day or 2 is it still hard to start from cold or is it just when you leave it for a longer time?
Hmm...we've only been getting out in it every 6 weeks or so and not starting it in between times.
Come to think of it, when we replaced the stat and impellor she fired up without much trouble. But that was the middle of the afternoon in full sun.... Still, it hadn't been running for a few weeks before that.
I heard that the emergency valve is meant to slowly open as you crank over the ignition. Maybe it's sticky, or whatever is controlling it (solenoid or something) is not working?
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Actually , now that I think about it, it's actually easy enough to reach, I was just trying to take the photo while it was trimmed up and I was standing outside the boat haha.
Still, who wants to sit at the boat ramp at 4am with the cowling off looking like a duffer starting his engine??
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Thanks everyone.
The fuel filter and plugs are practically brand new. The plugs do seem a bit 'richer' looking than normal, I'm not sure why, but they are not gummed up at all.
The motor has an emergency starter valve and the manual suggests to open this before starting and then turn it off after its running. Given this is an emergency valve, and its in an almost impossible 'on water' position, there must be another solution.
The ignition doesn't seem to have a press choke when turning the key.
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Hey all.
Thanks for all your help so far, it's much appreciated.
We are having issues getting the outboard started from cold. Once warmed up it's one click to start, but when it's cold it takes a good 5 minutes to finally ignite.
Outboard has a 703 forward control, with a throttle advance but no choke.
Fuel primer bulb is hard. After 10 to 20 tries we get a sputter but dies straight away. After another 5-10 attempts with a splutter each time we can finally can get it to catch by jaming on the throttle advance and giving it a good rev.
I've checked the choke switch on the outboard and its in the upright position. I haven't watched it during start up tho to see if it advanced to on or not.
Any thoughts on what the issue might be? Or how I could go about diagnosing it? At this time of the year the lbs are too flat out to bother with something like this plus I'd like to learn myself.
Thanks!
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Just an update for all who have been so helpful.
Boat went on the water yesterday and there was no sign of overheating problems during the trip!
Thanks again.
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2 hours ago, josamill said:
Pittwater alive with bonito & kingfish yesterday and this morning (Monday). Careel Bay.
:(((( We spent the morning around flint and steel (along with about 20 other boats)and found nothing. Should have ventured further around obviously
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Hi guys. I know it's last minute but I'm hoping to find a couple of spots in and around Pittwater to have a fish tomorrow.
Coming from Penrith I don't have much of an idea and the last trip was a bust.
Any suggestions of where we can drop some livies for a king or Jew? Or failing that, a reef that might hold a couple snapper for dinner?
Any suggestions are much appreciated. Just looking for a couple for a feed and the rest are catch and release.
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On 23/10/2017 at 8:21 PM, Hateanchors said:
I disagree. We are talking about a 2 stroke engine. Taking the top cover off the head and cleaning out the water passages is a simple thing. I done the same on my old 60HP Yamaha and it needed it badly. I’m guessing this engine does as well. Look at the condition of the thermostat housing. You can bet the water passages are clogged up similar.
Ive spoken to other mechanics and they say it should be done as part of periodic maintenance on these particular engines.
Replacing the impellor housing made a massive difference in the strength of the tell-tale so hopefully this has rectified the oheat issue for now.
I do agree that the water channels are probably a mess. But perhaps its one of those cases of if it ain't broke....
We will be taking it for a run on Pittwater this Sunday, hopefully we have done enough for now to stop the alarm.
Now if only I knew where to find fish in Pittwater!
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On 13/10/2017 at 4:16 PM, Hateanchors said:
Any Yamaha dealer.
So we got round to installing the new thermostat yesterday and got most of the way through the impeller repair but found this little problem.. someone glued the impeller cover to the housing!!
I didn't order a replacement housing but have picked one up today. The impeller wasnt actually in too bad of a condition but obviously the previous owner had some issues and though a bit of construction adhesive would do the trick.
Hopefully with the stat change and a new housing the O/heating will be resolved.
P.s. the Yamaha dealer advised against taking the head off, except as a last resort.
On 12/10/2017 at 1:27 PM, Hateanchors said:As I said earlier, the only way is to take the head apart and manually clean it.
On 12/10/2017 at 1:27 PM, Hateanchors said: -
On 12/10/2017 at 1:27 PM, Hateanchors said:
As I said earlier, the only way is to take the head apart and manually clean it.
Any recommendations on where to pick up a cylinder gasket and cover gasket? Or better still, where not to buy?
I don't have a parts # list for this outboard.
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Thanks everyone. To do list:
Change thermostat
Change impeller and housing
Flush with salt away/salt X
Will let you know how it goes.
So, just to confirm, am I right that poppet valve is not a thing on this outboard?
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1 hour ago, jeffb5.8 said:
Clean the water galleries as best as possible, using pipe cleaners, wire and fill with water and blow out with compressed air.
i would change the thermostat and water pump as it may be failing at low speed and not having enough pressure to make it pass any small blockages.
P.S
i am assuming this is when it's in the water and not on ear muffs as some motors don't like to idle for long periods on ear muffs.
Funny enough the alarm stopped when on the ear muffs.
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2 hours ago, Hateanchors said:
Could also be a build up of salt inside the engine where the water flows through. Only way to fix it is to take the engine apart and physically clean it out. Start with the basics, thermostat and pump then go from there.
This was the state of the thermostat. I've given it a good clean out but will do more once the new stat arrives.
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2 hours ago, Hateanchors said:
Also, from cold does it set off the alarm straight up at idle or does it seem to warm up first then the alarm goes off at idle?
No, it has to warm up.
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2 hours ago, Hateanchors said:
So it only happens at idle? I’m going with a worn impellor/ pump.
When was it last serviced?
Has happened when idling while chasing a hookup and while waiting for the trailer to be backed down the ramp.
It had 100hrs. Recently purchased. Was told we could go another 50hrs before changing, but that was before we knew about the overheating.
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Hey there
We have a 1999 Yamaha 60hp 2 stroke that sets off the alarm at idle. I can only imagine this is the overheating alarm as it's using the oil no problem.
Some research on forums mentioned thermostat, poppet valve and impeller. We've just pulled out the thermostat, a lot of gunk in there but when chucked in hot water it opened. I'm going to replace it anyway given the corrosion and I wasn't able to test if it was opening at 50deg.
I went hunting for the poppet valve but after much searching and a bit of research on workshop manual etc, perhaps there isn't one on this outboard??
Does anyone know if it had a poppet valve and if so where would I find it?
Any other recommendations to fix the overheat issue? I'm hoping the thermostat does the trick. But I guess it could be a worn impeller if at low speed it's not pushing enough water through.
Oh, btw, no problem with the tell-tale, tho I heard that this isn't much of an indicator..
Cold starting problems 1999 Yamaha 60 HP
in Boating
Posted
Thanks. Fuel filter was new and nothing seems bad in the tank. Might change the hose at some point.
However right now the boat is out of action again....busted steering cable. Oh the joys of owning an old boat.