[Fish finder / Transducer help]

Hi,

I have an older 27' Riviera Flybridge which I have begun taking out further to about 150m deep. I have her at Port Stephens. I have a Lowrance Elite 9 Ti2 with the standard 3 in 1 transom mount tranny.

Now, I'm losing bottom at about 80m and don't like the idea of the transom mount tranny.

I'm taking her out end of this month for antifouling and was hoping to install a through hull tranny whilst out of the water.

I have been looking at the Airmar SS75M (600w) at $969 or the SS175M (1kw) at $1329. I know my Elite is only a 500w unit but also looking at upgrading further down the track.

I'm after some advice on best Tranny to get at a reasonable price which will work now with the Elite and then when I upgrade possibly HDS unit.

Is the 1kw tranny worth the extra $360 or not?

Also as I have a flybridge was hoping to be able to link the new fish finder to my Elite as a screen only so I can have one at each helm? Also, I have been told the HDS units have 2 tranny plugs which I can then keep the 3 in 1 tranny for bay fishing etc??

Or do I need a whole new setup with 2 new finders, etc. at a million dollars???

Cheers
Rod

[Port Stephens Moorings and Services.]

My boat is 27 feet so does need to be slipped.

I have only just began looking and spoke with Port Stephens Moorings and they were over double the price for a mooring installation compared to Lake Macquarie so looked around for other mooring services but still can't find any. Might be a better quality mooring device, don't know.

Will need a good mechanic and slip yard as well. Any recommendations would be great.

Cheers Rod.

[Port Stephens Moorings and Services.]

Hi,

I'm looking at possibly moving my boat from Lake Macquarie to Port Stephens and wanted to hear of any good or bad points/experiences to help me make up my mind.

Does anyone here have or had a boat moored at Port Stephens that could assist with a fair mechanic in the area and a mooring contractor as I can only find one mooring contractor for Port Stephens and they are over double the cost of the mooring at Lake Macquarie. Is it going to be a lot more expensive having my boat at Port Stephens??

Any info would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Rod

[Transducer placement on moored boat]

That looks great. I will use a slide, just wasn't sure if it would vibrate and not give a clear reading but if yours worked a treat that's good enough for me.

Cheers

[Transducer placement on moored boat]

Hi all,

I was after some advise for transducer placement on a moored boat. I have recently purchased an old Riviera 27 Flybridge and will be placing my Lowrance Elite9 Ti2 on it with the Active Imaging 3in1 transducer. Now has anyone placed this transducer on a slide so that it will come out of the water when not in use? Cons and pro to this method or should I just bite the bullet and get a new through hull transducer. Would these through hull transducer's work or would I require a double transducer if its through hull. Any help would be appreciated as trying to keep cost down for the moment. Next year I will probably upgrade to a better unit and tranny.

Cheers

Rod

[Question about Life Jackets]

Yes, I do agree with you. It is a catch 22 with these more comfortable vests but not always as safe.

Cheers

Rod

[Question about Life Jackets]

I would definitely return them to the shop, with your receipt & ask for replacements. The bulbs can last for MANY years so long as they aren't damaged or rusted - but you should have been given new ones.

Also make sure now & then that the JACKET inflates OK anyway without the bulb (by blowing it up manually and leaving it up overnight ...... same as you should do for the yearly inspection anyway)

On the water, if I am in a situation where I feel in any way threatened, I just manually blow mine up to a point that if I DID fall off or be separated from my yak - it is already inflated sufficiently to support me in the water. Better to be safe & look like Mr Michelin Man than be swimming after your boat without it!

The way I see it - the bulb is really there for an 'emergency' situation, where you haven't had time to inflate it before hand (ie if you are knocked off the boat unexpectedly) in which case you would just pray that you don't get a knock to the head, as you wouldn't be able to pull the tab anyway!

Even up here in Forster, I've manually inflated it a couple of times, when the lake got really rough, which it can, with a Westerly. Then, when back at shore, just deflate it & repack it (if you had to inflate it fully!)

cheers

Roberta

Hi,

Please correct me if I'm wrong but I've always been told and also read it in the instructions to never partially inflate an inflatable life vest as the cannister with the compressed air has the correct amount of air to fully inflate the jacket, hence if the jacket is already half inflated when you pull the cord to release the compressed cannister air it may burst the air bladder in the jacket due to the rapid over inflation. The manual valve is for topping up in the water if required.

I guess if you partially inflate it then you must remember if you go overboard to manually finish blowing it up in the water and not use the compressed air cannister.

Cheers

Rod

[Question about Life Jackets]

Hi, I have a number of these manual inflating jackets of different brands and the date on the air cannister is the manufacturing date, not the expiry date. I don't really know if they have an expiry date, I would think at least 10 years. You should also find a date of manufacture on the jacket itself and it should be simmilar to the cannister date.

Cheers

Rod

[20ft plus fishing/weekend camping boat]

hi Rob

My best advice is to keep asking questions like you have done here and make a list of what you need, want and wish for on a boat then go with list and get on as many boats of all makes and models as you can. don't forget to get your misses to make her list too!!!! there is so much difference pic's on the net and stepping on any boat.

Good luck with your search.

David

Cheers.

[20ft plus fishing/weekend camping boat]

My 36' searay was slipped and anti fouled in April. Total cost including anodes around $1650.00. It is twin shaft drive (v-drives). If you have outdrives then add about $500 plus parts per drive per year.

If you're used to outboards then with inboards get ready for a new world of stuff you've never heard of. If you do not have fresh water cooling on the engines then budget for replacing manifolds and other really expensive bits every five years ($4000) and possibly an engine every 10 years or less.

The exhaust elbows and risers will need inspecting every year and replacing on average around 5 years ($4000) no matter whether the boat you have uses fresh water or sea water cooling. If the cooling jackets rust through you wind up with water ingestion and potentially up for a new engine.

For fresh water cooled engines factor in a heat exchanger replacement every 10 years if you maintain them properly or 3 to 5 years if you don't. They are around $1500 each.

Batteries and solar chargers have to be kept in good order. A generator is not a bad idea if you plan to overnight often since you may not run the main engines long enough to recharge after a nights use and wind up killing the batteries.

Through hull fittings, stop cocks and hoses have got to be inspected and changed to prevent either cooling problems or the boat sinking depending on whether they let in too little water or too much at the wrong time.

With diesels you get longer life from the exhaust components if they are maintained properly but when something needs doing they are usually a lot dearer than petrol engines.

I have owned boats from 12 to 57 feet over 30 years, powered by outboards, Cats, Detroits, Cummins and I am also familiar with Volvo diesels. I also have had Mercruisers of various sizes, the Searay has twin 7.4L Mercruisers. The worst thing you can do is defer maintenance - it just gets dearer.

Deferred maintenance is one reason why so many big boats sit unused on marinas and moorings. What cost $5000 and gets left "until we get the credit card bill paid down a bit" or "we won't be using it until next year" will cost $7/8/9000 when eventually done. Or the list of work is now so extensive it's beyond some peoples budget or ability to complete.

It's not like owning an outboard and trailer boat. If you ever come to the Central Coast come look over mine and I can give you a run down on the systems you have to look out for. I am not trying to scare you off here, just give you an idea that it's not something you can leave without consequences.

Hi,

Thanks for all the info, much appreciated. I currently have a 20ft half cabin SeaRay with a 4.3lt inboard so I have quickly become aware of all the extra costs involved but I guess if it is to do with boating it's not going to be cheap. I was not aware of the heat exchanger in fresh water engines but I guess it is necessary as they don't have fresh running air through them like in cars.

I'm also a great believer that if something requires repairing it needs to be done now and not later as you are correct they will only get worse hence more required from your back pocket.

Thanks for the offer, you never now I might take you up on it one day after I sell my current boat and closer to buying a larger one.

Your Searay looks great on the Pic.

Cheers

Rod

[20ft plus fishing/weekend camping boat]

they charge by the foot for sliping check your local marina all have varied prices and what is included. a friend slipped his yacht last easter and got a extra day or two for free.

antifouling mmmmmmmmmmm depends on how much you move your boat (dont move it stuff grows quicker than the weeds in your garden) down to how fast the current runs under the boat while on the mooring. my boat sat still for 6 weeks when i had the carpets and covers done and had to have a bum wipe to clean off my garden!

There is a thing called ultrasonic antifouling systems on the market that claim to stop marine growth which means 3-5 years without replacing antifoul still looking at that one about 2k for that system. thats where shaft drive win out, legs should be serviced yearly I think?????. but moored boats also have anodes that need to be replaced every year or so not expencive but very important

If you know how to suba most of this can be done while boat is in the water.

again glad to give any info to help.

I found that mooring a boat had its ups and downs big thing for me is it only cost about $1500 a year.

cheaper than owning big 4wd and space in the backyard......

and any work I do on she she is already floating a alway drop a line off the back, front ready for anythig that swims by

David

So 6 weeks makes her very dirty. You must have to take her out for a bit at least fortnightly or so. Ultrasonic antifouling sounds like a great idea as well.

Cheers

[20ft plus fishing/weekend camping boat]

Hi Rod

Mooring fees on Brisbane waters for me was $300 ish per year. if your out side sydney metro gets cheaper.

Just over 2k for slipping and antifoul they did it all. you can cut down on price with a slab of the cold stuff and a few mates

Have a look on the waterways web for prices and availability of moorings in your area. cheapest way to moor a boat some marinas charge from 1k per month for mooring.

I did lots of research on this stuff before i bought this boat. call it frustration but it was 10 very long years between boats

David

Cool thanks, that sounds alright for swing mooring the slipping and antifoul doesn't, but I guess it needs to be done. How often do you antifoul, yearly? Do you know how much is slipping on it's own?

Cheers

Rod

[20ft plus fishing/weekend camping boat]

Rod,

Good luck in your search. I will be moving up from my large trailable to a 30-38 Riv in the next 12 months and I regularily keep an eye on mooring fees around brooklyn to know what I am up for.

Just be mindful to factor in cost of mooring and antifoul.

Regards,

Ben

Hi Ben,

Yes I have, but not sure yet if I will be swing mooring or not due to the high fees. What are the fees like at Brooklyn? and have you any prices on antifouling? What made you pick a Riv? Just that I have not decided on make yet.

Cheers

Rod

[20ft plus fishing/weekend camping boat]

Thanks, that's what worries me with an older boat. I know it can still happen with a newer boat but chances are higher with the older ones. I will have to get it surveyed and inspected by a good reliable mechanic.

Cheers

[20ft plus fishing/weekend camping boat]

Great, thanks for all your help.

Cheers

Rod

[20ft plus fishing/weekend camping boat]

Thanks heaps for all your help. I will have to look at some Mariners, probably both 31 and 34 footers as I don't know the difference besides size, and obviously some smaller ones as well. I have also heard that Berties are good as well.

BTW how long did it take to sail from I'm assuming Brisbane Waters to Darling Harbour and how much fuel did she use. I mainly boat in Botany Bay and Sydney Harbor as she is on a trailer and easy to move about but when I get a larger boat she will be moored in Botany Bay and I would still like to take her to Sydney Harbour. In Google Earth I measured from Broken Bay heads to Watson Bay Heads about 32km and from Botany Bay heads about 21km. So if I know how long it took you in your 31 footer it would give me an idea. Thanks.

[20ft plus fishing/weekend camping boat]

Hi David,

Thanks for your help. That makes sense, how much did the marine survey cost? Is it a requirement for insurance? Good idea anyway. Twin motors would make her very maneuverable, and how is she with fuel?

In your opinion when you look at a boat, how many engine running hours would you consider to many in diesel and petrol motors. I'm not sure how to relate it to car mileage because when you look at a boat say with 500hrs which seems like a lot to me and average it's speed to say 18 knots that means it has traveled just under 17,000km which for a car is nothing. But then boat motors rev a lot higher than car engines when cruising.

How far out wide do you take her? Does she handle it well?

Not a bad innings 16 boats in 20 years, so I guess I'm speaking to the right bloke. Well I have a bit of food for thought now.

[20ft plus fishing/weekend camping boat]

Hi David,

Thanks for your reply.

The reason for newer than 12yrs is that I have heard a few stories about fibreglass rot and then also the engine should be more reliable, emphasis on the should. I guess I would need to look around as you say, I will probably get a lot more boat for the money. Can I ask what your boat is? It actually looks great in the picture.

Yes the diesel would be a lot better but looking around in boatpoint there doesn't seem to be many about. But I do agree it would be better specially for an older boat.

I don't know much about shaft drives, so they are more reliable? Why is that, I'm assuming the gear box is in the boat with the motor? With a shaft drive, is that when you have a rudder for steering? How hard is it then to steer when docking etc. as you would need some water speed to turn. Do you then require bow thrusters etc. for ease of maneuverability when docking in tight areas?

Thanks for your help.

Cheers

Rod

[20ft plus fishing/weekend camping boat]

Hi Raiders,

I'm after your thoughts on a 22 foot plus boat that can be used for some game fishing and for a weekend away sleeping 2 adults and 1child.

I know this is a very broad question but what I'm after is your experiences/knowledge on a boat that may suit my needs.

Some of the criteria I have is as follows;

* max. budget is 60k

* does not have to be trailerable

* second hand boat not older than say 12 years (2000).

* will need to be large enough for the family to camp on it for 2 - 3 days and safe enough to take out to Browns etc. for some game fishing.

I would also appreciate both positive and negative thoughts on this idea.

I currently have a 19 foot Sea Ray half cabin which I have set up with good electronics, live bait tank, down riggers, plenty rod holders, camper covers, porter loo, etc. etc. but not a good enough boat to take out to Browns and to small to camp on.

Thanks for any help.

Cheers

Rod

[Line selection for Tyrnos 50LRS]

Hi all,

I'm looking at trying some Game/Bill fishing and just purchased a new game fishing outfit. After reading many FR posts, I decided on a Tyrnos 50LRS matched to a TCurve Revolution Offshore 24kg SU troll. I decided on this outfit due to the cost factor, if I had unlimited funds it would have been the Tiagra with a custom rod. I also decided on Momoi Hi-Catch mono line as it seems to be the going line with FR gamefishos. My question is if I get 24kg line spooled on the reel I can get about 600-650m on it and if I get 37kg line it drops down to about 500m according to my tackle shop.

Now what's more important for a beginner game/bill fisher, extra length or strength????

I already have a Tyrnos 30 on a 15kg Shimano Backbone Elite with 24kg Platypus lo-stretch on it(probably overkill for the outfit) which I will also try and use when trolling.

Cheers

Rod

[Live Bait Rigs]

Hi,

I'm very similar to 'one armed fisho' when trolling but when stationary I like to feed a small elastic band with the use of a bait needle through the front of the eye socket taking care not to puncture the eyeball. I then attach the elastic band to a hook on a fluorocarbon dropper off the main line leaving the point of the hook facing upwards once attached to the elastic band with a few twists.

Cheers

Rod

[outriggers bases and poles now in stock]

Hi Gary,

I'm interested in your outriggers and poles. Could you send me the dimensions of the base plates, as I would like to see where abouts I can fit them on my boat as it's not really a fishing boat (Sea Ray half cabbin) but lately I have been fishing more and more and have set it up with just about everything I need for off shore fishing including down riggers and live bait tank. One day I will have to update to a more appropriate off shore fishing and cruising boat.

You also mentioned that you could rig them up, would this be possible as I'm new to out rigging and do not have any idea on the rigging. You seem to know all about it so I'll take your advise on the rigging.

Cheers

Rod

[Some fish from the Bay]

Nice catch there Formosan. I had the same problem with the jackets at Yarra Bay a few days ago. Formosan any chance of sharing another livie spot in the Bay, as I only know of Yarra Bay and at the moment I can't get any.

Cheers

Rod

[Yakkas in Botany Bay]

Hi Fishraiders,

Needing help catching yakkas.

I tried for some livies in Yarra bay but could not get through the jackets, they would clean me up before the yakkas could get a chance . Does anyone have any suggestion on how to get livies when small jackets are about??? Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Rod

[towra fishing full moon, not so great]

Better than me as well mate with the 3 flatties and a pike. I went yesterday and tried Moli, Towra, Dolls, 3rd runway got nothing but a shovel nose

I tried for some livies in Yarra bay but could not get through the jackets, they would clean me up before the yakkas could get a chance . Does anyone have any suggestion on how to get livies when small jackets are about???

Cheers

Rod