chrisg
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Posts posted by chrisg
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The Scructure Scan will not work properly without a standard transducer of some type. There is a software update coming that may help with that but remains to be seen.
Unless you have a huge desire to fish along edges go the standard first then add the LSS2.
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No not really normal. Sounds like you have a thermostat stuck open (possibly a poppet valve). Once temp is reached it should drop at high rpm - your not getting to proper temp at idle form the sounds of it.
Sounds like a cooling system service - pump, thermostats and poppet operation check - is in need.
C.
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Every 12 months.
Might seem like over kill but for a 15 minute job its well worth it.
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You need to pause a moment before you go on. That's a 12 pitch prop but you need to check if you tacho is reading properly as that motor should be reving to at least 4500rpm if not 5000rpm
Either there's a tacho issue or a motor issue - either way get it checked before investing in props.
C.
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Only do it! Great unit with a great screen and far easier than a Hds5 to operate.
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In any area marked naval waters you may be asked to leave at any time and you must comply. In essence what narks the naval guys is anchoring in naval waters as they have equipment on the seabed - if your on the drift its unlikely anyone will pursue you. The really sensitive areas such as Garden island are heavily monitored and fishing these area's will enjoy a response!
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Did you open the vent on the fuel tank?
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Look up "Blind Shark".
C
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What ever you get the tow weight should be a maximum of 75% of the vehicle capacity. So at 1600kg is just suitable - look for a little more for a bit of flexibility.
C.
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Picked up four last night. The key really is do nothing. Let the rod load up when the fish is committed enough to move away. Reacting to 'bites' tends to cause them to let go. When the rod is loaded give the rod a good heave to set the hooks.
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It's interesting you raised this topic because my little Daiwa Certate 1003 feels high quality but far from buttery, and not noisy, but not silent. It sounds like it's got good quality internals.
Mick
That can also be the gear material being harder. Should last longer than cheaper softer material which initially often appear very smooth running.
C.
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Out of interest what hook did you use for the ones you made up?
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Contact Arizona Outboards at Charmhaven - outboard wreckers. They may be able to supply the exact part at reasonable cost.
C.
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I doubt you have done anything - it sounds like your motor is trimmed too far in, dangerously so.
Try this. Trim the motor all the way in accelerate to a good cruising speed. Trim the motor up a little at a time until the steering needs a similar force to turn either way. That's the point you want to aim for any particular speed.
Some boat motor prop configurations may always feel heavy but should not kick back like you experienced.
C.
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That's where the mix comes in - the best penetrating fluid by a long shot.
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That looks to be a struggle anyway you look at it. If you can be bothered make up a jar of half auto transmission fluid and half acetone (see the chemist) and paint that around what you are trying to undo. To be honest WD40 and any "domestic" sprays wont' touch that level of corrosion.
Think I'd be reaching for the grinder soon.
C.
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See. Told you so.
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A four blade prop will give you more lift across the hull particularly at the stern. This can provide a range of benefits but at the end of the day is very much hull dependent - my boat likes them 'cos its bum heavy and lifts the hull well. That said a three blade I have of the same pitch is better to get on the plane with but not as fast due to being a bit more draggy on the hull.
I'd be looking to Huey (Huett Marine) here - can't be many people who fitted more props to more Etec's to more boats. He'll could give you a starting point to experiment.
C.
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NO negatives on those switches. Fused positive power going in, positive power coming out. Negative will go to a common connection bus bar somewhere.
C
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As Gary says - prime and paint raw all raw metal first, then use the additional product. Its the raw metal that does it - that's why people have corrosion probs on newish boats because slack dealers just drill and bolt. Doesn't take long.
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Generally an auto will have a higher tow capacity than its manual counterpart - eg I think the Commodores are 2100kg max for auto, 1600kg for manual. As for better - depends how you like to drive really.
The Pathfinder clutch issue is basically because it is a clutch from a Nissan car (Maxima I think) - there is a heavy duty clutch kit apparently but you have to pay for that to be replaced - warranty will only replace lightweight clutch with the same.
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Dave
Don't know the Forester but two mates have Pathfinder's - both consider them generally good vehicles - both manual and both had premature clutch failure. One was replaced under warranty easily but one dealer, other an absolute fight to get anywhere. Do some research on the auto and see if they are trouble free.
C.
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This will help.
C.
Reading fuel consumption on Smart Craft gauge
in Boating
Posted
Smartcraft will calculate fuel usage via the amount dispensed in each injector pulse - no other sensor required. Just reset the fuel used display each outing and compare against how much fuel you have put in the tank.