Fishop
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Posts posted by Fishop
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Plus all those fancy contour lines almost never add up to what the sounder is actually reading. I'm moving to brisbane/sunshine coast later this year so I will wait and see if the maps are any better down there.
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I have navionics on my phone. I dont really trust it. As you can see I drove straight over wallaby reef the other day. It will also show me going straight over holbourne island, nares rock and middle Island if I go within a hundred metres of them.
It seems to save my markers ok though I can always find my fishing spots but it's just not as accurate around certain islands/reefs.
Cmap is still installed on my 10 year old raymarine plotter and it is more accurate around the islands and reef.
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On 1/7/2021 at 9:37 AM, richard2234 said:
In the absence of installing a hardwired monitoring system, I'm looking to install one of those bluetooth monitoring systems that can provide me with battery health information (voltage, charging, current flow, etc) and alerts while out on the water. Does anyone have any experience with these and can recommend a good quality solution?
Any pro's and cons between hardwire and bluetooth solutions?
I'm assuming that with a dual battery setup I will need to purchase two of these bluetooth sensor systems to avoid having to swap across to each battery when I wish to get information on each battery, is that right?I just have 2 voltmeters connected after the isolator switch for each battery. Not sure about a blue tooth one, might be overcomplicating it a bit. Why do you need current flow etc
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On 12/6/2020 at 8:41 AM, motiondave said:
I'm not sure what the mechanics are smoking, but I've never seen a trailer backed into the water where the wheel caps are above the water line.
I went fishing with a bloke who had a haines 635 with a 225 on the back. Big boat and he never let either of the dual axle trailer axles into the water and had an electric winch to crank it up on the roller trailer. 😂😂
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On 11/11/2020 at 6:15 PM, pegz said:
Decided to go new 100hp Tohatsu, be back on the water quicker. Thanks for all the input
How much do they cost? Fitted and installed?
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I have the same setup as you I just went with 2 century marine batteries with a VSR. I cant see a time when my accessories will require anything like a deep cycle. I usually only fish a spot for an hour or two and my sounder, stereo, lights, radios etc I doubt will flatten a battery in that time. I have installed volt meter's for each battery to keep an eye on it just in case.
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As above get a service manual. My local wouldnt sell me one but I rang around a few places close by and ended up getting one from townsville dealer. They ordered it from the US so it took a few weeks, but it came and they posted it to me for an additional 10 bucks. total was about 60 all up. its so detailed it literally tells you every single bolt and screw to undo with pictures to go with it. Well worth it IMO.
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Thats a good point I wonder what your range is now with the new motor and 240Litres!! I had a 120 + 40 litre tanks in my little carribean and a 90hp 4 stroke and it goes 2+km/litre. I couldnt think of a time I would be doing a 320km round trip!!
Like you said I found the fuel just sat in the tank for long periods so I would occasionally top up with 95. Ive since removed the 40L tank and turned it into a kill bin.
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Do you think you will drop a prop pitch considering you were not fully loaded and didnt quite make it to 6000rpm?
Also, cant believe your old 21 year old 200hp is still 31kg lighter!
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4 hours ago, Scienceman said:
Thanks all for your comments. Appreciate the input, especially zmk1962. I've always looked at torque as much as HP with my cars so what you say makes sense however there is a more limited choice with outboards (as there are many more restrictions such as boat weight, design, application etc). I found this interesting comparison:
Merc 60 = 59HP @ 5750RPM and 76NM @ 3000RPM
Yamaha F60 = 57HP @ 6000RPM and 76NM @ 4,500RPM
Yamaha F70 = 67HP @ 6300rpm and 83NM @ 5,300RPMAlso expect the Suzuki DF70A would be another good option.
Nice comparison. 8)
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Sorry for the delay. I have it sitting on the ramp to try and even up the weight distribution between the two axles. Without it the front axle seems to take all the weight and the tyres looked heaps flatter. Dont even need to have the brake on. Two wheels are chained together on the other side and its chained to the driveway via a shackle dynabolted down.
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I have a 1994 15hp yammy. Its a 15D model if that helps (dates back to 1982 i believe).
I had the leg offand noticed this hole up inside the upper casing (top right corner). Is it meant to be there? It seems very cylindrical. It doesnt show up on any parts diagrams.
Also when i fired it up it has exhaust coming up the upper front part or the casing. Seems to be coming from around these grommets.
Does anyone think the two may be linked?
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On 5/19/2020 at 8:10 AM, Twalis said:
Hey Everyone - really appreciate you sharing your experience and constructive feedback.
Looking at a 18 footer boat. Unfortunately garage is full and I don't have other space around it to play with.
Good idea on seeing if I can borrow a similar boat to test with
I am in the exact same situation, 18ft fibreglass. I park mine on the driveway no worries. I have a dual axle trailer. I drive up, have the wife put two small caravan ramps (or i made my own with wood) under the back wheels, then I reverse back onto the ramp for the rear wheels only. that way the boat sits almost horizontal. Ive never had any issues with it moving. I also lock the wheels together with a chain (safety 1) and bolted a D-ring into the concrete and chain it to that as well (safety 2) and trailer also has a hand brake. Ill try and get a photo.
I drive my trailer up so the back of the boat is facing down and it drains while I wash it. Even when its unhitched its on a slight angle down for drainage. I then unhitch, drive the car forward into garage and back out (double bay garage). its a bit of a PITA with a landcruiser but it works. I have a small house with no street parking. Ill try get a photo later tonight to better explain.
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On 5/22/2020 at 11:48 AM, hustler57 said:
The fuel tank is a external tank that's been cleaned. i am heading out tomorrow night to drop a line and will see how it runs then but if running at 1/4 choke is the only issue i have then while it shouldn't need any choke im not extremely worried at this stage as yesterday was a extremely cold day on the water . I had a old 40hp Mercury years ago that ran like a dream with a fraction of choke. but i will be emailing Yamaha to ask why they say 100:1
Is the fuel breather open?
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20 hours ago, Sawtellrob said:
Hi all, I have a bolt and rubber spacer missing from the rear of my hydrofoil. I have removed the opposite spacer and noticed it has a slight taper, 4mm to 3.5 mm. I am going to source rubber for the replacement but am unsure of the importance of the taper. Thoughts on using 4mm rubber washers please? The foil doesn't have any markings so unsure of make but its on a 2003 Mercury 75 2 stroke.
Cheers
Rob
If you post a pic of the foil Im sure someone will be able to identify it. 😎
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On 4/8/2020 at 12:25 PM, zmk1962 said:
Catching up. Just another consideration. I had never ending problems with my Aux 4ST 15HP Mariner carbie - float/ float chamber / jets needed constant cleaning. The fuel ran of the same filter that serviced my EFI main motor - which is way more sensitive to clean fuel then the carbie motor - so fuel supply or fuel filter was not the issue in my case.
I started to run the carbie motor dry by disconnecting the fuel line during the last phase of wash down and have not had any problems since. This is a good 4+yrs now. The problem for me was the stale fuel left in the carbie and low pressure fuel pump evaporating and leaving behind gunk which would then block the carbie. Just a thought.
Cheers Zoran
I too do this with my little 8hp 2 stroke. When I flush the motor i just disconnect the fuel line. Gives it about 5 minutes of run time/flush time before it runs out of fuel.
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7 hours ago, zmk1962 said:
I must say the only diesel powered craft I’ve been on recently have been larger yachts, cross channel ferries etc. lots of separation between passengers and engine room.
way back in 70-80s we used to hire the wooden putputs which were powered by a single cyl diesel inboard. But they were full of bilge water diesel fish bits and pretty much on the nose
so no modern experience with diesel in a trailer boat scenario.
cheers z
My dream trailer boat is a walkaround cabin with a diesel inboard. So when I accomplish that dream ill let you know!
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1 hour ago, zmk1962 said:
I just found it interesting that this development is being pursued. I like the safety features of low flammable diesel, the torque and presumably economy but personally not sure I'd want to smell diesel on a boat all day.
Has anyone ever been on a boat with a diesel outboard?
Cheers Zoran
Would it not be the same as other outboards and exhaust through the prop/under water? Plenty of diesel inboard motors getting around.
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They do a 300hp version with 680nm of torque and its 395kg.
Or for 20kg lighter you can go 300hp and 650nm of torque with COX.
Not sure how a 3.0L 6 cylinder weighs more than a 4.4L V8!?!
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17 hours ago, mrsswordfisherman said:
Hi there
You will need a bit bigger tinny than that for offshore.
Where are you headed? We were headed that way and had to turn back due to COVID-19Plenty of people hit up the 120km return trip to the GBR where I am from in North queensland in Renegage's. Just gotta pick your days and make sure you have all the safety gear if you get in trouble!
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If you want cheap buy the 3m light/medium/heavy perfect-it cutting compound and wax ($30 or so) and a cheap buffing kit ($50) which attaches to a cordless drill. You cut it on to remove oxidation and then you buff it off to bring out the shine. You would be surprised how well my 30 year old carribean came up with just one go over.
I also invested in a full cover for my boat. I got a cheapy off an online store for about 130 bucks. It covers the whole boat (full length north queensland style canopy and all). Its ocean south so its not top of the line stuff, but so far so good its been on 6 months and it keeps all the water, dust, leaves and most importantly sun off the boat.
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11 hours ago, Shearwater said:
Being an older hull - around 1980 - there are no ratings on the hull
Iv'e just tonight become aware of a 200hp Optimax that has come available, a 2005, that I will ring about tomorrow I think - Iv'e just read a very good review comparing the 200hp range in 2009 https://www.fishingworld.com.au/news/head-to-head-200hp-outboards1
in which the Optimax comes out very well - much to ponder!
And if I go that way and the Opti is quite noisy as I have gathered from responses here and in the fishingworld review - then I can close the rear door of the wheelhouse! Ah! gotta love a fully enclosed wheelhouse!
That review was done in 2009 and on an optimax with 25 hours on it. Probably better off googling optimax issues to find out what issues you might come across with an 11 year old optimax. 😎
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11 hours ago, Bryant fish said:
If all you are worried about is fuel use $8-10000 would take forever to recoup
He could probably sell that motor for $3-4k if its in good nick.
what weather app?
in Boating
Posted
I use willy weather first as it has a nice graph that easily shows me 7 days in advance if its going to be windy or not.
Judging by the pic of cairns, I would say sunday is going to be better than saturday.
Then I go to the BOM marine wind forecast webpage. They dont have an app which sucks and makes it a bit more time consuming to study.
Saturday was showing dark blue on BOM which is 10-15 knots, sunday is showing white/light blue (above) which is 0-5/5-10 knots.
Sometimes it doesnt always work out like this, sometimes Willy will say sunday is better and I check BOM and BOM says saturday is better. In which case I would choose BOM over Willy. Willy is just used to take a real quick look at the week ahead. I also use Willy for tides as it has the same nice to read graphs I can quickly glance at and see where high and low tide are.