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Psycho fisho

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Posts posted by Psycho fisho

  1. 4 hours ago, Volitan said:

    Ive seen that before. Many years ago - read about it and tied it that way for a while but went back to the single loop. 

    Was it better? Well, there’s two things important to me about knots. One is strength, the other is reliability. Some knots are very strong under test but when tied under normal fishing conditions they lack reliability - in other words every now and then you tie a dud. I put the double loop uni knot in that category - I just seemed to get a few break offs that shouldn’t have happened.

    Thinking about it, uni knots are what I call friction knots (not knowing any better term). They resist slipping by friction. The friction comes from the multiple turns around the barrel of the knot. To be effective, the percentage of friction that each turn imparts must be relatively equal, meaning that each turn must be of relatively equal tightness. If you don’t draw the knot up carefully (with the tag end aligned to the main line) then the weight is loaded onto the first turn, which carries too much, is pulled too tight and the knot fails at this point. The impression I got was that a double loop on a uni knot can interfere with the distribution of friction as the knot is drawn up.

    As I see it, reliability is a much more important attribute of a knot then outright strength.

    Very well said what you said there made a lot of sense so basically the double loop Uni is stronger but not reliable as the normal Uni knot is reletively strong but it is more reliable then the double turn Uni.

    what knot do you use?

    • Like 1
  2.  Hi guys 

    I have been working on better ways to tie the Uni knot and found this method of going through the eye of the hook/lure twice then do the normal steps for a Uni knot l have been testing it against the normal Uni knot and it is way stronger has anyone else tried this way of tying the Uni knot like this is it better then the normal Uni?

    Thanks 

  3. 1 hour ago, MainframeJames said:

    I've heard people say good things about both, but I haven't used either one myself. Get the one you like the look of, then next time buy the other one and see what you think. Better yet, buy a bit of each and try them out at the same time. 

    Unless you're going to stop fishing in 12 months you’ll have plenty of opportunities to try out both of those and more if you feel like it. So don't sweat it. :)

     

    P.S. I wait for a spool of braid to go on clearance and I buy it then to try out. Tried out Fireline Exceed that way and I don't prefer it. Tried out Sunline PE that way and I quite like it. 

    Yeah l get what your saying but when you are casting $100 lures around l want to make sure l have the most reliable line

  4. 17 minutes ago, xerotao said:

    Daiwa jbraid

    ill be purchasing a spool of 30lb and 50lb for my 2 reels. Once dinga gets some 30lb in stock. Shold be sometime next week

    Yeah l am doing the same thing l am waiting for the 30pound on dinga

  5. Hi guys 

    As the salmon season is fast approaching l have been preparing all my gear for the season any way this year l want to give stick baits and other hard body lures a shot my question is does using snap swivels effect the way the lure swims should l just tie the Uni straight to the lure or is there other better methods for attaching lures to your leader like using a swivel to a split ring? 

    Thanks in advance

  6. 5 hours ago, MainframeJames said:

    I would say depends on water depth of you're talking from the rocks. Although Tailor tend to be surface feeders as far as I've seen. If the wind is working with you, metal slices all the way down to 10g or even 7g. If the wind is really pushing hard in your face then I find 20g works better. If the water is pretty deep you can go as heavy as your rod will throw pretty much and that will help you get down to the bottom. 

    From the beach especially, being able to throw out to where the fish are feeding makes all the difference. Watch for the birds, they'll be chasing the baitfish that are being scared and/or shredded near the surface. If you can cast out to where the birds are hovering/diving, you almost can't not catch fish. 

    Do be careful though, sometimes birds can be fooled by lures as well. 

    Thanks for your feed back but l was asking what soft plastics can you use off the beach

     

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  7.  Hi guys 

    I am heading down to Augusta for a weekend in a couple of weeks and will be stuck landbased and l am looking at  throwing soft plastics or blades off the beaches and rocks but l don't know what to use l will mainly be targeting skippy, tailor, mulloway, salmon and anything else so what plastics or blades are best off the beach and what size jig head?

    Thanks in advance

     
  8. 4 hours ago, rickmarlin62 said:

    if your not a fan of fg like me  stick with Albright...I use it in 6lb braid  up to 80lb braid...at least 10/12 wraps up 4/5 back down over top  always make sure tag leaves loop same way as mainline enters...rick

    Yeah the Albright always breaks before the fg

  9. Hi guys

    I am looking for one type of leader knot that l can use on 4 pound line all the way up to 200 pound line so what would you suggest is the number 1 leader knot?

    Also l have tried the fg but the mono tag end has rubbed on my braid mainline and caused it to break is the anyway l can avoid that from happening? Does putting half hitches on the mainline to protect the mono from touching the braid ok or does the half hitches on the braid weaken the line?

    Thanks

  10. 2 hours ago, Hateanchors said:

    You should be able to call Daiwa Australia and order over the phone. Otherwise, measure the bearings size and you can get them from a bearing store. Try to get rust resistant if possible. 

    Yeah thanks l will give it a go how much would they coast 

  11. Hi guys

    I am servicing my mates daiwa freams 2000 and l am in urgent need for 2 bearings l have looked everywhere on the internet but cant find anything and l have struggled with getting in contact with daiwa so where do you guys get your parts from?

    Thanks

  12. 10 hours ago, xerotao said:

    He isnt breaking the law. Can target whatever he chooses

    yeah and there is no way l would kill a ray all l am doing is catching them for the enjoyment of the fight they put up the same what you guys do to marlin

  13. 10 hours ago, Towlersbay boy said:

    If you want something that pulls hard just target sharks. Like scratchie said WA is a fishing mecca, why scape the bottom of the barrel & target rays ? Why not Target the Cobia that are hanging out with them when they school up ? 

    I live down the south where the fishing is crap and l just want somewhere l can go and catch big fish that l can release sharks take a lot of time to catch

  14. 15 minutes ago, Captain Spanner said:

    The crushed barb will make it easier to get out if you can grab it but it still wont prevent it from getting stuck down his throat to begin with. The circle hook will hopefully have a better chance of setting in the hard part of the opening of his mouth and not catching in his throat.

    If you are in Bunbury and there are Mulloway where you are fishing then i would specifically target Mulloway and you will catch just as many Rays but at least you'll be ready for the Mulloway and be learning as you go. You will already be spending the hours on the beach.

    What circle hooks do you recommend cheers mate

  15. 11 minutes ago, Captain Spanner said:

    Personally i wouldn't target them but i understand why you want to. If you are intending on releasing them then you should use a single circle hook to make removal easier as the rays will suck the hooks down their throat like a vaccum cleaner. I would suggest you keep the ray in the water and use a dehooker like the shark guys use so you do not have the get too close to the ray and muck around with pliers. The dehookers are basically a stick with a strong metal "S" shaped (blunt) hook on the end. You pull the line taught with one hand and push slide the dehooker down the leader until it engages in the gape of the hook. Then give a short sharp push to try to dislodge the hook. If it is too difficult or he has swallowed the hook just cut it off as close to his mouth as is safe and possible. Be careful of his tail at all times. And obviously do not gaff them at all as you are releasing them.

    If you use a heavier leader it will be easier to handle the ray to get the hooks out. I would fish at least 20lb line but preferably more like 50 braid and alot of it (at least 300m). Off the beach you will easily get spooled on a big one. Keep in mind that these guys have soft flesh and when the line is under alot of tension it can cut them as it gets pulled across their face or wing or back, especially on the leader or when the line flips them over during the fight.

    We catch them quite alot fishing for jewies and you often get spooled. I like to use 50lb leader for jewies off breakwalls and beaches with rocks so i fish with 65lb braid so that when a ray or shark has my whole spool (300m) out on me and i grab the spool i  have a much better chance of it snapping at the other end and not losing all of my braid (both annoying as you have to have a spare spool or reel with you and expensive to replace).

    Thanks for your help mate would a  crushed barb on a j hook work

  16. 11 minutes ago, Captain Spanner said:

    Personally i wouldn't target them but i understand why you want to. If you are intending on releasing them then you should use a single circle hook to make removal easier as the rays will suck the hooks down their throat like a vaccum cleaner. I would suggest you keep the ray in the water and use a dehooker like the shark guys use so you do not have the get too close to the ray and muck around with pliers. The dehookers are basically a stick with a strong metal "S" shaped (blunt) hook on the end. You pull the line taught with one hand and push slide the dehooker down the leader until it engages in the gape of the hook. Then give a short sharp push to try to dislodge the hook. If it is too difficult or he has swallowed the hook just cut it off as close to his mouth as is safe and possible. Be careful of his tail at all times. And obviously do not gaff them at all as you are releasing them.

    If you use a heavier leader it will be easier to handle the ray to get the hooks out. I would fish at least 20lb line but preferably more like 50 braid and alot of it (at least 300m). Off the beach you will easily get spooled on a big one. Keep in mind that these guys have soft flesh and when the line is under alot of tension it can cut them as it gets pulled across their face or wing or back, especially on the leader or when the line flips them over during the fight.

    We catch them quite alot fishing for jewies and you often get spooled. I like to use 50lb leader for jewies off breakwalls and beaches with rocks so i fish with 65lb braid so that when a ray or shark has my whole spool (300m) out on me and i grab the spool i  have a much better chance of it snapping at the other end and not losing all of my braid (both annoying as you have to have a spare spool or reel with you and expensive to replace).

    Thanks for your help mate would a  crushed barb on a j hook work

  17. 28 minutes ago, Scratchie said:

    Ok that’s fine! Not completely sure of the rules specifically targeting eagle rays. Is there not another species you could target to give you the fight you desire? 

    Where l live in WA there are Mulloway that are the other big fighting fish from the shore but they take a lot of time and patience as for Ray's they are in plague prepotions.

  18. 20 minutes ago, Scratchie said:

    Question.... why would you want to target eagle rays? 

    I had a feeling someone would ask that question. The reason is that they fight really hard and that they a relatively easy to catch from shore. And all Ray's l catch are released 

  19. Hey guys

    l am trying to catch some eagle Ray's and was wondering if l can snell normal j hooks as in previous times when have caught Ray's l have used ganged hooks and they are impossible to get of the Rays mouth without killing it and also if l crush the barbs on the hooks will that work the rig l use is 40 pound braid down to a fg knot then 2 meters of mono leader down to running ball sinker to 2 5/0 j hooks will this rig work? 

    Thanks

  20. 1 hour ago, Hateanchors said:

    I’m not familiar with Shakespeare’s reel sizing but if a 4000 is about the same as the other major manufacturers, it is on the larger side for that rod and “bread and butter” species. I wouldn’t think overly big though and still usable if using bait.

    If you were using lures I would say definitely it’s too big and heavy to cast and work with repetitively. 

    Then again, everyone has their own preferences. 

    yeah l will mainly be using it for bait fishing

  21. Hi guys

    I have recently purchased a Shakespeare cetera 4000 and l plan to use it off the beach and rocks for bread and butter species l have matched it up with a 2-5kg ugly stick rod is this rod and reel a good match? Is the reel to big for this type of fishing? Also as l know every fishing brand makes there reels different sizes to other companies what would this Shakespeare 4000 size reel compare to?

    Thanks

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