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Peter K

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    Georges River

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WHITING

WHITING (6/19)

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  1. I’ve seen a lot of people use PVC pipes and just chuck the rod in wrapped in a towel, strapped to the roof. Sort of like how an electrical or plumber would have pics pipes on there van or Ute roof. assuming you wanted ideas for 1 piece rods?
  2. Go with a mono backing, 4-8lb braid main line and a fluro leader. Id get daiwa expedition 8lb 150m the diameter is the same as that of other braids 6lb lines.
  3. Apologies if that made the thread go off track.
  4. I believe the moderators have requested we try to avoid mentioning the retailer etc. They certainly are not one of the largest tackle stores in aus, they only have one store and it’s not relatively big compared to other tackle stores. Some in the past have had their claims about the store and how genuine stock is. Not sure much is allowed to be said here, just do a good inspection of the rod before u purchase.
  5. Mate you’re fine, whatever of the two you choose. I’d go the lighter option, better for flicking plastics. Take care of your rod and it won’t snap. Try not to high stick, although I do this very regularly to lift fish out of the water and up sea walls. Often your light line should snap before the rod. Don’t step on your rod, might be a good idea to research rod grain and the natural bending it what’s to take. Make sure rod is in the car, don’t slam a door on it. Get a 2 piece seeing as you travel to fish and use public transport etc. A the best, glad your settling in on a rod your going to buy. Beware of <retailer removed>, mixed reputations amongst the community.
  6. You are correct, 1/19 oz is what 1.5grams comes to, 1/11 oz is what 2.5grams comes too. I work in grams seeing as were in aus. When bought form stores, it is always even numbers. From the cheap Chinese orange website. 5-10$aud, 50 pack, depending on the weight/hook size. They are fine for most estuary species under 40-50cm, although I wouldn’t trust it for targeting bigger species. They don’t have a great lure holder/keeper so I always pierce a hole at the head of the plastic, and stretch it over the eye of the hook, that works very well.
  7. @XD351 what do you mean? the information I stated? or where I’m getting my jig heads from? my jig heads are 1.5grams, 2 grams, 2.5grams, bought online as a 50 piece box for each weight individually.
  8. Nice stuff. 1/12 oz is fine, depends on the water depth and how fast the current is in that area. Most people say 1/20-1/8 oz and you change as needed. Ive recently been running between 1/19 oz to 1/11 oz.
  9. Saw this on youtube just now. From Starlo's channel.
  10. Match the hatch could be the case, although, that was the first time I've tried a worm. Its very fragile, when I reeled in the check and then cast again, almost half the work just broke off even when casting gently. Do you know anything about what I've quoted myself on below? next time I hit the flats I can try getting a photo if it helps. PS. those teeth are scary. In the Saltwater aquarium hobby, there is fireworms/bristle worms that bite you so I'm always super cautious about what worm I put on a hook, not trying to get bitten by a helpless worm.
  11. Thanks SteveO, informative. At my local sand bank, they are present, although Im not sure which, Im leaning towards tubeworms. When walking the flats I often see these old tube like sleeves that look like a worm creates around itself, when you pull at it, the just crumbles to sand, I've got no clue what it is but its interesting. i was pumping nippers a week or so ago and a worm about 15-20cm came up, I believe whole, I put it on my whiting rig, and I got baited 4 times on nippers in the same time the worm was out there. Ive watched people catch them on there each with a smelly bait washing over the sand, is this applicable in estuary on sand flats? or is nipper pumps the go to? Cheers, Pete
  12. Its pretty clear from google maps, this is my local sand flat. The satellite image was taken while the tide was still mid way through dropping, however, at low tide, majority of all the water covered sand becomes exposed. The green section is the good side, nice and stable and firm, its a brighter yellow, like a beachy sand, the darker sections are just water pools amongst the good sand. The red side is the bad side. Very muddy, can end up around knee deep although I've never tried going more than half way across it as it gets very muddy and heaps of oysters everywhere. You can tell by the colour as to what is good sand and what is muddy. Use google maps or any other satellite images of the area you can get.
  13. Im struggling with top water and whiting chasing in general, sounds like something I might have to do!
  14. Well, if your worried about the spot your thinking of, try the one along the part of the track I screenshot and circled for you.
  15. Im not from that area and ive never fished there. Perhaps @Steve0 could give more advice for sand flats in that area. When GHF mentioned wading, that is wading the sand flats so not sure why your worried about the rocks being unstable. 100% you shouldn't try getting in the water and balancing yourself on slippery rocks. Finding sandflats on google maps is pretty easy. https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Berowra,+New+South+Wales+2081/Apple+Tree+Bay+Carpark+Rd/@-33.644983,151.1486198,4419m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x6b0d50b3a4b6edc5:0x5017d681632a9a0!2m2!1d151.1474501!2d-33.6231747!1m5!1m1!1s0x6b0d576dc968ca37:0xac77910591646453!2m2!1d151.1592384!2d-33.655088!3e2!5m1!1e4?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MTAyNy4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D In each of the little bays it looks pretty clear there is either sand or mud flats there you can wade out on. I wade without boots or anything, if heaps off oysters sometimes I wear thongs on my feet but sandy flats are normally quite safe. Keep your eyes peeled. The three circled spots all look like they may have some sort of flat to wade out at. All along the track I believe. Only way to find spots and catch fish is to get out there.
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