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Sideshelf Running Length Of Hull Need Repairs


wyldchyld01

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Hey all,

Well we got the boat from the mechanic after the 10hr service. Excited :yahoo: . Found, after jumping in to put things back in place ready for a flick tomorrow, that somehow they have broken the battery selection switch off the sideshelf to which it was previously screwed :ranting2: .

The wood didn't look so good after the epoxy paint started to flake off and i'd been toying with the idea of repairing it, first major glassing project was going to be a hard-top (flat and easy :biggrin2: lol), it looks like it might need to be this side shelf.

It is really only two pieces of wood nailed together in an L shape. Base 2.5mtrs long x 140mm wide x 25mm thick, side 2.5 mtrs x 90mm x 25mm but i can't see anywhich way that they have attached it to the hull. unless they've used a strip of wood epoxy glue and the paint holds most of it.

any advice would be good, maybe what a good material (wood) to use would be, it's a fibreglass boat and needs a little tlc (see above mentioned epoxy, that stuff just cracks and flakes). i have a fair bit of diy experience(prefer to do it myself, i know how it's done then lol). Do i glass over the whole shelf (made off the boat) and then attach it, or do like they seem to have, and attach the base only and then nail the side to it and don't worry about glassing it? Toying with the idea of not leaving it as one little shelf running along the inside but expanding it into a cupboard or rod rack, wouldn't mind suggestions on this line either.

sorry for the long post, look forward to your responses before i take it in for them to have a look at repairing it on monday (at least their trying to do something) but it may not be worth it

cheers

Brenton

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Hi Brenton,

You can use just about any wood except marine ply , providing you seal it off with fibreglass resin, and coat with Flowcoat ( with wax) not Gel coat. Marine ply and some other treated wood have a coating that wont

allow the resin to penetrate it.

To attach the piece back to the boat, grind away the area it need to be fixed to, clean up with acetone,

allow to dry, then use the resin and fibreglass matt like glue to bond it onto the boat.

The surface wont bond anywhere you place the matt and resin that isnt sanded back and cleaned with acetone, it will just peel off after a few days

If there big gaps or very uneven surface you can mix talcum powder into some resin after you added the catalyst to make a "bog". Add enough so its not runny and more paste like. It sets rock hard and is great for filling in gaps. Once its in place you can paint it over with the flow coat and in a few hours on a warm day will set rock hard. Paint resin onto surface, lay mat on top, then dab resin on with brush until its

all soaked with no bubbles or blisters. The matt wont go around sharp corners and will lift of as it starts

to dry.

If you just paint over it with flowcoat it wont strengthen the piece, but it will stop the water

getting into the wood. If the part needs to be strengthened you need to use fibreglass matt and resin,

then flow coat it.

If you use gelcoat it will never set, and will remain tacky for months.

Jason

Edited by PPSGT
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Jason,

Thanks mate, didn't know that about treated wood. Would you use polyester or epoxy resin. The reason i ask is because i was looking at using a "northane" 2 part polyurethane paint rather than flowcoat over the finished glass piece and don't know if it will attach to poly resin (but it's much cheaper than epoxy lol). Mind you i don't know if it will water seal the piece as well as flowcoat.

Cheers for your input

Brenton

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Hi Brenton,

I'd suggest doing the it all in Fibreglass then covering with flow coat. They will react and chemically

bond and will turn out like the original piece. Painted parts will always scratch a lot easier.

I have done a lot of fibreglassing since being quoted being quoted a fortune to replace my boat

floor 7 years ago. After reading up at the library/internet about using fibreglass and buying the

products at a trade shop ( a lot cheaper ) I replaced the entire floor in a 16 foot boat in two weekends

for about $300 from a shop it woudl have cost $1500-$2000 . I learnt heaps and it was a lot easier than I thought.

Its one of those things that people charge a lot of money for, but if you read up and get the right

advice its not that hard to DIY.

Jason

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