Live Bait Tank Setup

[wttmrwolf]

Hi Fisho's,

I'm going to convert a bait storage bin at the back of my 5.2m Hains Hunter into a live bait tank.

I want to pump fresh sea water into the bin and I'm looking at a Whitworths live bait tank kit.

Can anyone tell me if this is a good option:

http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdeta...tAbsolutePage=1

Wttmrwolf

[novice]

I am doing the same, but I went to their opposition and got some good advice.

I am using a stainless steel intake that mounts below the hull. In forward motion the water

is forced into the tank, and relieved by a 32mm overflow at the top of the tank.

When at rest, a Bigle pump attached to the intake bracket will pump water into the tank, and again the pressure is releived by the overflow.

No need for the aerator, as the water is constantly changing.

My hassle is trying to drill / bore the 32mm hole required for the overflow.

How do people normally do it ??? I haven't played too much with fibreglass, so I wouldn't know what type of

drill bits to use.

Can anyone shed some light ????

Taps.

PS - (sorry to butt into your post Wttmrwolf)

[wttmrwolf]

I am doing the same, but I went to their opposition and got some good advice.

I am using a stainless steel intake that mounts below the hull. In forward motion the water

is forced into the tank, and relieved by a 32mm overflow at the top of the tank.

When at rest, a Bigle pump attached to the intake bracket will pump water into the tank, and again the pressure is releived by the overflow.

No need for the aerator, as the water is constantly changing.

I was under the impression I could use this kit in a similar fashion to what you describe. I was going to place the Johnson pump down in the transom area inside the boat. Drill a hole in the transom, attach a plastic elbow.

And just to be different attach a little plastic hose on the outside to pickup water when underway. See attached image. If you look at this thread someone mentions the potential disaster that could result from hitting a submerged object.

http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/inde...showtopic=26462

What I can't work out is if the Johnson Live Bait Tank kit includes a pump that could pump water up to the live baitwell.

My hassle is trying to drill / bore the 32mm hole required for the overflow.

I'm a bit curious about this drilling business as well. I drilled some small holes on the weekend to mount so switches and high speed drill bits worked a treat but a 32mm hole, mmmmmm????

My complete novice advice would be to start small and work your way up.

I'll be monitoring this tread over the coming weeks.

[wttmrwolf]

Here is a link I found describing how to install a seacock 3/4".

Looks a little scary.

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/07.htm

[pelican]

For 32mm hole use a core drill and it will give a nice finish especially if you first put some masking tape over the gelcoat the place to be drilled and also once centered and drill point has gone through just run the core drill on the insided as well before you finish the hole from the outside.

Edited December 1, 2008 by pelican

[Guest Aussie007]

dont drill a hole in your hull just run the hoses up over the transom if the hoses are small enough run them thru the steering hole if not just run them up into the back of the boat just make sure your over flow is higher than the hoses so the water will flow back thru and not flood your boat this is how im doing mine

[wttmrwolf]

dont drill a hole in your hull just run the hoses up over the transom if the hoses are small enough run them thru the steering hole if not just run them up into the back of the boat just make sure your over flow is higher than the hoses so the water will flow back thru and not flood your boat this is how im doing mine

Gazza - after some reading and reflection I'm going with your idea of putting the pump on the outside. I like the idea of running the hoses in through the steering hole. I think there is enough room next to the fuel lines on my boat.

I don't know what I was thinking, no point drilling holes in transom just for the sake of looks. Plus it would have been a nightmare to service the pump or adjust the flow rate since the transom is covered by a bench seat. If I have to do anything down there I'm practically standing on my head.

[Guest Aussie007]

this is my setup i brought the 65L drum off of a well known auction site the seller is in blacktown so i picked it up an hour after winning the auction $20 for the drum not bad at all and perfect size for boats!!! today i went shopping and i couldnt pass up the johnson bilge pump that was on special for $15 i also got a metal scoop with the extended peice of tube to connect a hose the scoop takes 12-13mm hose so its avaliable anywhere i also brought 2x 19mm fittings one is for the water inlet the other as a over flow wttmrwolf u can copy how im doing it if u like? i will have pictures as i go also if u want me to link u directly to the guys i broguht the stuff from send me a PM all up its cost me under $100

[wttmrwolf]

this is my setup i brought the 65L drum off of a well known auction site the seller is in blacktown so i picked it up an hour after winning the auction $20 for the drum not bad at all and perfect size for boats!!! today i went shopping and i couldnt pass up the johnson bilge pump that was on special for $15 i also got a metal scoop with the extended peice of tube to connect a hose the scoop takes 12-13mm hose so its avaliable anywhere i also brought 2x 19mm fittings one is for the water inlet the other as a over flow wttmrwolf u can copy how im doing it if u like? i will have pictures as i go also if u want me to link u directly to the guys i broguht the stuff from send me a PM all up its cost me under $100

Nice work gazza! So you are connecting the hose directly to the scoop then placing the bilge inside the boat near the live bait tank? I like that idea. Probably looks better than the bilge on the outside under water.

Really keen to see the photos when its setup.

Have you worked out if you are going to put the inlet at the bottom and the outlet at the top? Apparently thats the best way to circulate the water. I think I can put the inlet at the bottom if I loop the hose up above the top of the bait tank water line (otherwise the water will drain back out via the inlet).

Go for gold.

[a boat]

Hi Guys, all good advise and there are many ways to do this. A couple of things if I may, if you are going to drill a hole thru the hull make sure you fit a seacock in the pick-up to allow you to stop the boat filling with water if a hose breaks or the like. Also in the picture with the thru hull fitting and elbow that is too close to the centreline of the boat and will cause issues blocking water flow to the outboard. I see it all the time where transducers, water pick-up and the like sit too close to the centre line and make a big hole in the water and the engine will suck air and can overheat and also the prop can cavitate causing running issues.

Put the pick-up as far outboard as you can get it.

Cheers,

Huey.

[pelican]

I'll add to that as well. Any hole through a hull should also have a suitable wooden or plastic cone wedge / plug on a cord at the fitting as I have been on a boat woth a mate snapping off a stopcock and you and only hold your thumb on it for so long. One little hole sure lets a lot of water in. Scary as you can't bucket it and help the boat drain and bilge pumps take a while longer than you think. Murphy says it always has to happen well out and in a good swell. You can buy kits of plugs / wedges cheaply as safety gear and keep the spares you dont tie off to your fittings in with yor flares. With that in mind only put through hull fittings where you can access them and later on change pipes over and so on as if they are inaccessably they will get forgotten and won't be noticed till they fail. See it on new boat all the time with fish wells draining and so on and you can't reach any of the fittings let alone service them. Manufacturers must put them in before laying the decks or have 7 foot arns.

Use clamps ( not zip ties or rely on plastic barbs) and UV / petrol proof tubing as well as it can deteriorate fast if you don't keep an eye on it and you do't want that under or at the waterline..

Edited December 2, 2008 by pelican

[Guest Aussie007]

Nice work gazza! So you are connecting the hose directly to the scoop then placing the bilge inside the boat near the live bait tank? I like that idea. Probably looks better than the bilge on the outside under water.

Really keen to see the photos when its setup.

Have you worked out if you are going to put the inlet at the bottom and the outlet at the top? Apparently thats the best way to circulate the water. I think I can put the inlet at the bottom if I loop the hose up above the top of the bait tank water line (otherwise the water will drain back out via the inlet).

Go for gold.

i had a choice of using a Rule pump and the larger water scoop of the two and sitting the pump on top of the water scoop with a hole drilled in the bottom but i didnt fancy bodging it so i went with the smaller water scoop i will be running a hose from the water scoop directly to the tank and i will be placing the pump on the outside of the hull below the water and running this directly to the tank than i already have a bilge hole with a fitting in the side of my boat i will be running the overflow thru this fitting and disconnecting my bilge pump i am a great wuss anyway so i doubt water will be coming into my boat i shit my self when in sydney harbour in my previous owned boats so ill be taking it easy

[wttmrwolf]

......i already have a bilge hole with a fitting in the side of my boat i will be running the overflow thru this fitting and disconnecting my bilge pump i am a great wuss anyway so i doubt water will be coming into my boat i shit my self when in sydney harbour in my previous owned boats so ill be taking it easy

I have the same bilge in my boat with a fitting at the side. I was going to put a T junction in the bilge hose so I could use the same outlet for waste bait tank water and bilge water.

I was going to raise the bilge hose so the T is below the top of the hose. That way the bait tank waste won't run down and out the wrong end of the bilge. Great way to flood my boat. Not sure if this is wise but worth a shot and prevents me having to drill a seperate outlet AND I get to keep my bilge working.

Just a thought

I'll add to that as well. Any hole through a hull should also have a suitable wooden or plastic cone wedge / plug on a cord at the fitting ......

only put through hull fittings where you can access them and later on change pipes over .......

Use clamps ( not zip ties or rely on plastic barbs) and UV / petrol proof tubing as well as it can deteriorate fast if you don't keep an eye on it......

All invaluable advice, thanks heaps pelican. Do you have any photos of your live bait tank setup?

.... if you are going to drill a hole thru the hull make sure you fit a seacock in the pick-up to allow you to stop the boat filling with water if a hose breaks or the like. Also in the picture with the thru hull fitting and elbow that is too close to the centreline of the boat and will cause issues blocking water flow to the outboard......

Great advice, we could write a book dedicated to live bait tank setup. I might put a dedicated page together on the web when I get mine all setup.

[Guest Aussie007]

I have the same bilge in my boat with a fitting at the side. I was going to put a T junction in the bilge hose so I could use the same outlet for waste bait tank water and bilge water.

I was going to raise the bilge hose so the T is below the top of the hose. That way the bait tank waste won't run down and out the wrong end of the bilge. Great way to flood my boat. Not sure if this is wise but worth a shot and prevents me having to drill a seperate outlet AND I get to keep my bilge working.

Just a thought

just install a one way valve

[wttmrwolf]

just install a one way valve

So those things actually work

I'm game, lets see if those little one way valves work.

[Guest Aussie007]

a quick trip to bunnings seen me add an extra $15 to the cost this brought 1x19mm valve 1x19mm elbow 1x13mm valve 1x13mm elbow and a tube of silastic for aquariums you can find it in the glue section as i got to work silly me DOH! i put my over flow and inlets on the same level its done now atlease when im sitting still my water scoop will act as a overflow aswell i will need to remember to shut off the hose running from the pump to the tank while driving as more than likely it'll act as a syphon and suck the tank dry while on the move other than those little problems or yeah sill me i put the inlet's to close to each other lesson learnt i had to seal them up with silastic i have also hot glued into place a peice of my garden hose (i ran out of 12mm clear hose CBF driving back to the shop!) i bent it around the tank and glued into place to give the live bait the water swirl they love heres the finished live bait tank for around $120 both the inlets from the pump and water scoop have the valves to control water flow

[Evets]

I guess the next job is to securely attach the tank to the boat so it doesn’t fall over

Evets

[Guest Aussie007]

i wouldnt have a clue how i will bolt the tank down i was just going to rely on the two people sitting in the back of the boat lol

[wttmrwolf]

i wouldnt have a clue how i will bolt the tank down i was just going to rely on the two people sitting in the back of the boat lol

Nice work gazza. I'm not sure you will need to bolt it down. I've been using a plastic rubbish bin to hold live bait and bailing in water with a bucket. Not once has the bin even come close to tipping over. You would have to do something pretty scary to throw it over. I think the water would be the least of your worries. Getting your heart out of your throat might be more of a concern

[Guest Aussie007]

tested tank last night works perfect as it should