Okuma V System Vs200 Baitcaster

[slinkymalinky]

G'day... me again trying to avoid the fresh air & sunshine.

This time I'm working on an Okuma V-System VS200 baitcaster I bought 2nd hand off another raider. It's going to be coming with me to Monduran soon so I wanted to give it the full works... and in fact, I've got a set of ceramic hybrid bearings on order because I thought the trip might be a good excuse to try some out.

The first thing we'll do is unlock the left side plate...

that will then swivel out of the way so we can remove the spool. It just slides out.

While the spool was in front of me I decided to clean and lube the right hand side bearing. This requires removing the retaining pin. BE CAREFUL... my pin shot out like a bullet, ricocheted around the room, and took me 20 minutes to find

As I removed each bearing during this little project, I used a tip from Alan Tani and measured them with digital calipers so I could order the right sized replacements. But in case something doesn't work out, I decided to clean and relube all the bearings just in case.

The right spool bearing was a removable shield type (like nearly all the bearings in this reel). To do a thorough job, I removed the shields... it's not that hard and can be done carefully with the point of a chemically sharpened hook (thanks to Alan for that tip too)

I cleaned the bearing in white spirit then when completely dry, lubed it with a single small drop of TGs Rocket Fuel oil, before reinstalling and putting aside the spool.

The left hand bearing can be accessed inside the side plate by removing a retaining spring. This bearing also got 'the treatment'.

The next stage was to strip down the star drag assembly...

Now... Okuma sometimes frustrate me. Sometimes you'd swear their designers and engineers are totally switched on... this reel has a great drag for instance... but sometimes they make decisions I don't understand. Like this plastic handle nut cap, held on by just a couple of very fragile plastic tabs... I found it nearly impossible to get off without damage

With the cover off, the handle nut can be removed... this needs a ring spanner or socket wrench since the nut is recessed into the handle.

Then the handle and star drag assembly can be removed and put aside (in order of course)

Lets move on to removing the right side plate so we can get at the drag and other tasty bits. There are 3 screws...

One obvious one in the outside of the side plate...

One not so obvious one underneath the right hand side of where the spool is usually sitting (but this is pretty common)

And one that's a bit awkward to get at and is in fact one of the structural cross members for the reel.

The side plate just slips off.

The side plate bearing was removed by first taking out the retaining spring. Then I gave the bearing a good clean and lube

I also decided to remove, clean and lube the roller clutch bearing since it's a simple matter of pushing it out from the inside.

Lubing the roller bearing involved applying just a thin film coat of grease. I started by applying grease to the collar... (I've just started using Evinrude Triple Guard outboard grease which I've used to refill my Daiwa bottle)...

before wiping all but a thin smear off again...

Then the same was done to the roller clutch itself with the help of a small paintbrush.

This is what we're confronted with inside...

Moving on, the drag is easy to disassemble. The main drive gear along with the drag washers simply pull off the drive shaft and can be carefully laid out. Notice the drag washers are carbon... score 1 for Okuma.

Then I had the clutch assembly to remove

... beginning with removing the pinion gear, yoke and yoke springs (careful... anything labeled 'spring' with any reel will do everything in its power to fly off into the carpet)

Then the drive shaft... taking out the 2 screws securing the drive shaft assembly and removing it, along with the drive shaft bearing.

This is where being disciplined and keeping your parts neatly ordered is important...

Next I took apart the level-wind assembly beginning by removing the 'e' clip securing the worm gear and left end bushing...

unscrewing the line guide pawl cap and removing the pawl...

removing the retaining pin from the right hand end of the worm gear...

so that the transmission gear can come out, along with the worm gear bearing and the worm gear itself.

Even the worm gear bearing got the disassemble, clean & lube treatment.

I cleaned the right main frame and gave it a thin coat of grease

Followed by cleaning and reassembling the level wind... making sure to add a drop of oil to the bushing, the pawl and the shaft itself.

With the drive shaft bearing, once it was disassembled and cleaned, I packed it with grease. This bearing has no influence on the reel when in freespool so the focus is all on protection. Grease in a spool bearing however, will dramatically reduce the ease with which the spool spins so reduce casting distance and cause casting problems.

Make sure there are no air pockets in the grease if greasing bearings. You can press the grease into the bearing with your thumb (use your palm on bigger bearings) until is squeezes out the back.

I also ran some grease into the bearing housing.

"Oh... how do you get your bearing back together?" I hear you ask... With the shield back in place (the right way up!!) you can hold the bottom or the retaining spring and gently slip each side back in with your fingernail.

... and as a little tip, be careful when using magnetized screwdrivers. I spent 15 minutes looking for this missing bearing retaining clip before I found it

Then the bearing went back in.

Next, I reassembled the clutch and drive shaft assemblies in reverse order after first giving them a good clean in white spirit.

Each screw on my reels gets a dab of grease for corrosion protection, before reinstalling, by the way.

I greased and reinstalled the pinion gear assembly. The springs get a coating of grease by rolling them between greasy fingers (sorry I couldn't afford a hand model).

The metal drag washers got a good clean while the carbon washers got a coat of Shimano Ace 2 drag grease. I slop it on and work it in with my fingers before wiping off the surface grease with a clean rag to just leave enough so that touching it will leave a fingerprint. Then the drag was reassembled and the drive gear reinstalled after getting a coat of Evinrude grease on the drive teeth.

Then it was an almost straightforward matter of reinstalling the right side plate. Remember those Okuma frustrations... another one is that the sneaky securing pin as well as being thin, has a ridiculously fine thread. Without putting any significant pressure on it, I managed to strip the female thread inside the right side plate (remember the composite body).

It's like trying to secure a shelf to a plaster wall using 4 gauge wood screws. If they're going to build composite body reels I wish they'd at least use different hardware

Anyway, I solved the problem by installing a shim of .001" brass sheet before screwing in the pin.

With the side plate safely reinstalled, the handle assembly was put back together... making sure the belleville washers were oriented correctly (they're the bent 'spring' washers that transfer pressure from the drag star to the drag disks).

A quick wipe down with Innox of the outside and all done. (apart from having to order a replacement plastic handle cap ).

Cheers, Slinky

[gretsch]

Awesome Post Slinky.. can yo do one for the range of Stellas?

I tried to take on apart once and ended up at Shimano withe my SW10000HG in pieces in a Coles shopping bag.... I handed it to the dude and apologised..