Slink Posted May 30, 2012 Posted May 30, 2012 Hi All , I have quite a good collection of kitchen and filleting knives . I have had these for about 7 years now and have always used a good diamond stone and good steel to keep them super sharp , trouble is that they have lost their edge and need to be ground down a bit on the edges , what are you guys using ? I know that there are some good sharpeners that you "pull" the knife through but I dont know the best brands. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks
user1829 Posted May 30, 2012 Posted May 30, 2012 (edited) Hi All , I have quite a good collection of kitchen and filleting knives . I have had these for about 7 years now and have always used a good diamond stone and good steel to keep them super sharp , trouble is that they have lost their edge and need to be ground down a bit on the edges , what are you guys using ? I know that there are some good sharpeners that you "pull" the knife through but I dont know the best brands. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks you usually have to create a new set of angles to bring back the blade, this is the style of tool that can be used: http://www.kingofknives.com/Cutlery/Sharpeners/Sharpening/Pull-Through-Sharpeners---Blocks/Klevasharp-knife-and-shears-sharpener.aspx then hone and lap as you'd usually do... i dunno the best brands, but all i can tell you is to get a bench mounted one - not one that you hold in you hand and run along the blade... Edited May 30, 2012 by user1829
LeoB Posted May 30, 2012 Posted May 30, 2012 G'day Online I have seen 2 and 3 stage sharpeners but am also a bit unsure of brands also. I like the idea of the 3 stage sharpeners that have a course and fine grinding wheels then a smooth polishing wheel to give a perfect hone. They are available in electric and bench models. I am sure you get what you pay for in most cases. Cheers Leo
Slink Posted May 31, 2012 Author Posted May 31, 2012 Thanks fellas , I will look at the knife shops and ask around , Leo I dont need a 2 or 3 stage sharpener cause I finish them off with a stone and steel combo to keep them razor. Thanks again Brad
arpie Posted May 31, 2012 Posted May 31, 2012 Hi Brad Don't forget that there can be 4 or more 'grits' available - even in the steels (tho they are 'striations' not actual grit!) & one of the coarser ones would probably do what you want with your knives. I have 3-4, all various levels, with the final one being almost smooth & depending on how blunt the knife is, choose accordingly. When you use those 'pull thru' thingies, they usually put a fairly steep heel on the blade (same angle as the cross over bits on them) whereas a good 'sharpen' should have a more sloping heel - and they stay sharp longer, just requiring a touch up on the smoothest steel occasionally, just to re-align the edge. These 'finger' type shapeners are also good for the 'final' touch on knives - they range from the mid $20s & up. This is a Gerber one. Good luck! Nothing better than a sharp knife!! cheers Roberta
Slink Posted May 31, 2012 Author Posted May 31, 2012 Hi Brad Don't forget that there can be 4 or more 'grits' available - even in the steels (tho they are 'striations' not actual grit!) & one of the coarser ones would probably do what you want with your knives. I have 3-4, all various levels, with the final one being almost smooth & depending on how blunt the knife is, choose accordingly. When you use those 'pull thru' thingies, they usually put a fairly steep heel on the blade (same angle as the cross over bits on them) whereas a good 'sharpen' should have a more sloping heel - and they stay sharp longer, just requiring a touch up on the smoothest steel occasionally, just to re-align the edge. These 'finger' type shapeners are also good for the 'final' touch on knives - they range from the mid $20s & up. This is a Gerber one. Good luck! Nothing better than a sharp knife!! cheers Roberta Thanks Roberta , Are those gerber ones good for a sloping heel ? My steel is practically smooth , it does an amazing job , but the knife has to have an edge. I know you love your knives (ha ha ) me too. Thanks alot Brad
LeoB Posted May 31, 2012 Posted May 31, 2012 Gday Brad I had a chat to the local knife shop today, and they recommended a nirey. Pretty pricy though $160ish. Its a 2 stage designed for restoring an edge, with course and fine wheels, but said its advisable to go a step further by hand. They also said that a series of diamond stones by hand were as effective with practice, but you wil inevitably take off more of the blade. I also have a furi diamond finger sharpener like the one above. But it definitely would take a while to do an edge. Cheers Leo
Slink Posted May 31, 2012 Author Posted May 31, 2012 Thanks Leo , I have read a few reviews on the nirey and all the reports were really good . As you said though they are a bit costly.I will post up what I go for soon. Thanks
arpie Posted June 1, 2012 Posted June 1, 2012 .....Are those gerber ones good for a sloping heel.... Probably not! More for finishing touches! I have recently purchased a 4 sided diamond impregnated 'stones' that sit in the container & comes with a lid. It has 4 different grits, from coarse to very fine. The Coarse would make a sloping heel - you just need to get the angle consistently right - about 20 degrees from memory! Wheels can burn the metal. The stones, usually don't. Also check out the Lansky sets of stones - they come with a holding mechanism that fits in a standard vice & gets the 'slope' just right! Work from the coarse up to the fine. One day, I will get this too!!! A buddy had one for sale but I wasn't quick enough!! Here is a good youtube on the Lanksy system http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGNrdf1z7Ns cheers Roberta
ssymmetri Posted June 7, 2012 Posted June 7, 2012 (edited) I use two tiers of whetstones 400grit: quite rough, good for blunt knives, gives them a new edge 1000grit: fine, makes the edge sharp, for general use it's really good, probably equivalent sharpness to buying a quality knife out of the box and if you really care for your knives 6000grit: really fine, gives it a laser edge, good for cutting proteins (meat, fish, etc), with an edge this fine it'll get blunt quickly when cutting hard objects and may chip quite easily if cutting into bones, use this for a sashimi slicer like yanigiba or sujihiki, but not as a fillet knife unless you want to sharpen often using whetstones you won't need sharpening steels or gadgets, just some water and the stones, but it takes time to learn. good luck! =D Edited June 7, 2012 by ssymmetri
macman Posted June 7, 2012 Posted June 7, 2012 I use the Lansky system, doesn't need practice or a "good eye". It is a really useful gadget for getting a consistent angle, with a progressive set of different grit stones. Foolproof enough for someone as unskilled as myself to use. It really is a good middle of the road option. And BTW a steel is generally a maintenance device rather than a sharpening device, which is why you see a butcher using a steel constantly, also why most of them are missing digits. Matt
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