cheap charlie Posted July 15, 2012 Posted July 15, 2012 (edited) Looking to change the impeller on my outboard and have done a few in my time but mostly on late model smaller capacity units. This one has got me stumped as I can not see away to disconnect the gear linkage. I have read some literature on line that suggests on 80's models that the linkage needs to be disconnect just below the carbs. I have also read that there is a bolt that secures the rod to the linkage but I can not see any a bolt in there as the top of the rod is right is near the base of the engine compartment and the motor cowling comes up higher not allowing a clear shot to get in there. The VRO unit is on the left side of the motor so it's not possible to access from that side. Looks like a real bitch. I also read that some units had a inspection port on the side of the leg where a coupling is located connecting the shaft together. Not the case on my outboard as the linkage runs through the pivot shaft before re-entering the main body and into the leg. 98 OMC era Johnson 70HP Any recommendations? Edited July 15, 2012 by Cheap Charlie
Testlab Posted July 15, 2012 Posted July 15, 2012 As I don't know what model donk you're working on I can only guess at suggesting you remove the water pickup screens and look in there. Engage forward or reverse to move the linkage into the working space. All the obvious stuff you'd see (external linkages, cover plates, etc).
cheap charlie Posted July 15, 2012 Author Posted July 15, 2012 Thanks for your reply testlab. The outboard is listed in the tittle but I will add it to the post to avoid any possible confusion. I have tried forward and reverse with no luck. Thanks Again
Testlab Posted July 15, 2012 Posted July 15, 2012 I have dropped the leg on a mates 85 and then his 90. Not sure of the exact year models though. The shift linkage was connected the same in both of them, tucked right down under the carbs and in a real bugger of a spot. I don't remember if it was put in forward or reverse, but then I don't think it matters, just where ever it's easier to get to. We used a small socket drive with uni-joint to get to it. I do remember we undid the gearcase first and that was a mistake as I couldn't wiggle the arm off the linkage. My mate wiggled the gear case off, starting from the fully in place position, while I fiddled with freeing the linkage. Putting it back on the 90 was a real prize.... I wound up putting a bottle jack on besser blocks under the tow hitch and the skeg on a sleeper so we could move it bit by bit. They get heavy after a while and I didn't want to risk damaging the bolts. Eventually the shift arm lined up and I got the bolt in with the help of a screwdriver to hold the uni level.
cheap charlie Posted July 16, 2012 Author Posted July 16, 2012 After persevering, I managed to get it apart. In the end I had to Remove the air box and unbolt the VRO unit to get it out of the way to get access. There was a 11mm nut clamping to the shift linkage which located the the shift rod with a pin.
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