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Suzuki DF50A - flushing advice needed


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Posted

my first time posting on a topic....

just wondering if anyone can suggest what to do about what looks like salt flakes appearing a few days after being out on the water and after a good 15min engine flush with fresh water.

it looks like it seeps water after the flush which is understandable but the appearance of dry salt indicates to me that the flush is not clearing the salty water well enough. It builds up once the water seeping out eventually dries a few days later at most.

The salt builds up in a few spots along the seam where the lower case meets the middle housing.

i'm concerned about how much salt is really being left behind. Is this anything to be worried about? I'm fairly meticulous about cleaning and preserving the condition of my boat and this being my first ever brand new boat I thought I'd ask for your opinions or suggestions or if this is really anything to worry about. I had Saltaway hidden around the place somewhere from a previous older boat. Who knows where i've buried that in the shed. Worth a try you think? i'd have to buy some more..

Aluminium Anglapro 424 Chaser pro running 2012 DF50 Suzuki 4 stroke.

Posted

G'day

Have you tried using any products like salt away? The chances are there is more salt you can't see.

Cheers Leo

Cheers Leo

Posted

The ears dont cut it for flushing and I have a DF 50 as well and now use a large collapasable bucket to fully submerge the leg and use salt away as well.

Problem when using the ears or muffs is there is another intake under the cav plate which needs to be sealed with masking tape before flushing and then removed again :ranting2:

The motor now flushes heaps better whilst fully submersed and the addition of salt away directly into the water :biggrin2:

Guest Aussie007
Posted

The ears dont cut it for flushing and I have a DF 50 as well and now use a large collapasable bucket to fully submerge the leg and use salt away as well.

Problem when using the ears or muffs is there is another intake under the cav plate which needs to be sealed with masking tape before flushing and then removed again :ranting2:

The motor now flushes heaps better whilst fully submersed and the addition of salt away directly into the water :biggrin2:

do u think that extra port u need to tape over is a relief from to much tap/water pressure doing damage?

Posted

do u think that extra port u need to tape over is a relief from to much tap/water pressure doing damage?

Nope and it even says to tape it in the user manual which I found out after 6 yrs of use :1badmood:

Guest Aussie007
Posted

Nope and it even says to tape it in the user manual which I found out after 6 yrs of use :1badmood:

i wonder why its there? a lot of people world wide would have forgotten about the tape and taking there boat out :1yikes:

Posted

Hi, a secondary pick-up is nothing new and it is there for if weed, plastic bag gets wrapped around the gearcase and block off the main inlets. Stewy knows all about salt build-up and to the original poster I hope you are on top of replacing the internal anodes to.

Cheers,

Huey.

Posted

Hi, a secondary pick-up is nothing new and it is there for if weed, plastic bag gets wrapped around the gearcase and block off the main inlets. Stewy knows all about salt build-up and to the original poster I hope you are on top of replacing the internal anodes to.

Cheers,

Huey.

thanks for you help guys. I asked the dealer about the secondary pick up.... shrugged his shoulders and said the ears were enough. i did at first duct tape this pickup but noticed it made no difference. I also asked about the optional water flush point higher up on the leg which is plugged. again the dealer says the ears are enough.

internal anodes.... i can see two anodes (i think)on the mounting plate just below the ram but wasn't aware of the internal anodes.

Posted

thanks for you help guys. I asked the dealer about the secondary pick up.... shrugged his shoulders and said the ears were enough. i did at first duct tape this pickup but noticed it made no difference. I also asked about the optional water flush point higher up on the leg which is plugged. again the dealer says the ears are enough.

internal anodes.... i can see two anodes (i think)on the mounting plate just below the ram but wasn't aware of the internal anodes.

Hi, alot of people and even so called experts (that shrug their shoulders) do not know there is internal andoes and if not replaced the engine can corrode from inside out.

Cheers,

Huey.

Posted

post-21377-028430200 1355524518_thumb.png

Hi all,

I am posting for the first time and am also a complete novice where boats and motors are concerned.

I purchased a 3.55m Sea Jay tinny with a DF15 4 stroke motor last weekend and was advised by the seller to flush the engine by submerging the bottom of the motor in a bin of fresh water and running for a bit. Which seems a logical way to do it.

My question is, can it be done with the ears instead after removing the phillips head bolt labelled "Flush", and if so for how long should it be done and should the engine be running the entire time??

........Like I said, I'm a novice!!

I have just purchased a flushing attachment online that I am waiting to arrive which I believe should screw into the spot where I remove the bolt from which should just allow me to attach a hose to it directly instead of the using the ears. See the image.

I have been unable to find a manual for this motor anywhere as that would obviously help.

Huey, I'm in West Pennant Hills, so I may run the boat up to you in the new year for a service. Are you taking a break or are you only closed the public holidays.

Thank for any help and advice in advance as I really appreciate it all. Also please excuse my ignorance, but I am wanting to learn as I am hoping this boat will lead to a bigger one later on!

Ray

Guest Aussie007
Posted

Hi, alot of people and even so called experts (that shrug their shoulders) do not know there is internal andoes and if not replaced the engine can corrode from inside out.

Cheers,

Huey.

yeah funny enough i seen the first one on a 25hp yamaha 2 stroke i pulled apart some months ago it had a internal anode under the cylinder head i think it was

Posted

yeah funny enough i seen the first one on a 25hp yamaha 2 stroke i pulled apart some months ago it had a internal anode under the cylinder head i think it was

Hi, yes due to the higher copper content in the Yamaha alloy they have always had internal anodes that should be replace reguarly.

Cheers,

Huey.

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