filthmonger Posted December 19, 2012 Posted December 19, 2012 Gonna go the simple route, small drum container with an external bilge pump and an outlet for drainage. The thing is i know zero to nothing about electrics and batteries, my question is could i connect the bilge pump to my existing battery or would i need a new one and also how do you go about connecting the power. Thanks guys Sam
rockfisherman Posted December 19, 2012 Posted December 19, 2012 Gonna go the simple route, small drum container with an external bilge pump and an outlet for drainage. The thing is i know zero to nothing about electrics and batteries, my question is could i connect the bilge pump to my existing battery or would i need a new one and also how do you go about connecting the power. Thanks guys Sam Yes you can connect to your battery, but you would need an inline switch, as for connection, there is a bolt on each terminal clamp, you would need to strip the wire and crimp on a small round type fitting big enough to get around the bolt, or quick and dodgy clamp the stripped wire behind the bolt. You might wanna be careful depending on the size of your battery and how much you use it. Fishingphase
Geoff Posted December 19, 2012 Posted December 19, 2012 (edited) Sam There is no problem connecting to the existing battery as the pump draws very little power. Electrics should be set up via a switch on the switch pannel. If there are no spare switches on the pannel then a single switch needs to be fitted. It is not a big job but if your not aware of how to do it then seek outside assistance. The plumbing is another aspect & there can be more to it than meets the eye , eg , pump size , pump position , inlet position , outlet position & size , draining facilities. Geoff Edited December 19, 2012 by Geoff
nosliw Posted December 19, 2012 Posted December 19, 2012 I use a simpler, less appealing alternative. I have the bilge wiring rigged to a male cigarette adapter and clamp a female adapter to the battery. When in use I plug it in and pull it out to stop. All easily removable once finished.
lostproperty Posted December 20, 2012 Posted December 20, 2012 (edited) I use a simpler, less appealing alternative. I have the bilge wiring rigged to a male cigarette adapter and clamp a female adapter to the battery. When in use I plug it in and pull it out to stop. All easily removable once finished. We have the same setup, couldnt be bothered to mount a proper switch and waterproof it all properly and this works really well for us, easy to turn on and off. Mounting points on the battery are using clamps like jumper leads, have tested going over big waves ect so long as battery is secure and doesnt move then the clamps wont budge, we havent had the terminals come off once since I installed them and all is good! Obviously you can strip and attach the wires permanently to the fittings if you want it to be perfect, but this overall was a much cheaper solution as a waterproof switch was about $50 Also the best tank to use I found was a beer barrel bought it online off feebay for 35 bucks had a lid and inlet pipe already fitted, just drilled holes in the top of the tank for water to flow out Edited December 20, 2012 by DownToFish
filthmonger Posted December 20, 2012 Author Posted December 20, 2012 (edited) So so i bought the pump pictured below and worked out that my spare ACC switch is already hooked up to the power supply. Couple of questions: -Since the ACC switch is already hooked up do i just connect the positive cable to the switch? -Should i earth the negative cable on the battery or somewhere else? -Below is a pic of where im thinking of mounting the pump, mainly because i wont have to drill straight into the hull, is it to close to the transducer? Edited December 20, 2012 by filthmonger
filthmonger Posted December 20, 2012 Author Posted December 20, 2012 Couple of pics, please let me know if you see anything wrong and give me your opinion on the pump mount location.
filthmonger Posted December 20, 2012 Author Posted December 20, 2012 After some research looks as though yes the pump will interfere with the transducer. How far away should i mount the pump to avoid this. Also some tips for drilling holes in the hull of a shiny new boat would be appreciated.
Geoff Posted December 20, 2012 Posted December 20, 2012 -Since the ACC switch is already hooked up do i just connect the positive cable to the switch? -Should i earth the negative cable on the battery or somewhere else? After some research looks as though yes the pump will interfere with the transducer. How far away should i mount the pump to avoid this. Also some tips for drilling holes in the hull of a shiny new boat would be appreciated Connecting the positive to the ACC switch is OK. There should be a terminal block or post under the dash where all the negatives are connected. Connect the neg to this post. Interferance may or may not be a problem. Turn your sonar on , at home , then turn on the pump & hold it next to the tranducer. Check the screen to see if there is any change. If not , mount the pump then to confirm , test again in the water. If there is interferance then , move the pump sideways with you hand , away from the transducer until the interferance stops. This will determins the distance. In respect to the pump , unless there is some sort of pick up not shown in the photo's the pump , if mounted in the position indicated , will only pick up water when the boat is at rest , ie , it will not pick up water when on the plane. Pumps are normally mounted on a bracket with a pick up like shown in this photo. Geoff
filthmonger Posted December 20, 2012 Author Posted December 20, 2012 I did consider that, though the only places i fish are the hacking and botany bay so i dont have alot of travel time between fishing spots, 5 min max so i dont think i really need the pick up. although if you could point me in the direction of where to find them i would definately prefer to have one than not.
Geoff Posted December 20, 2012 Posted December 20, 2012 I did consider that, though the only places i fish are the hacking and botany bay so i dont have alot of travel time between fishing spots, 5 min max so i dont think i really need the pick up. although if you could point me in the direction of where to find them i would definately prefer to have one than not. If only for a short period then I would not bother as the brackets are not cheap , around $45. Also , they are more suited to Rule pumps which have a smaller base. Perhaps take your pump & see how it will fit prior to purchase Marine shops like Bias , Whitworths sell the brackets Geoff
filthmonger Posted December 20, 2012 Author Posted December 20, 2012 (edited) Thanks mate, big help. Do you reckon it would pick up water slow trolling livies, say 1-2 knots? Edited December 20, 2012 by filthmonger
filthmonger Posted December 20, 2012 Author Posted December 20, 2012 Might have jumped the gun on the pump purchase. Might see if i can return the Johnson and swap it for a Rule 360. Hopefully BCF are understanding!
Geoff Posted December 21, 2012 Posted December 21, 2012 (edited) Thanks mate, big help. Do you reckon it would pick up water slow trolling livies, say 1-2 knots? While ever there is water around the transom the pump will pick up. Pick up will stop when the water "leaves" the transom. If you do decide to change to the bracket / Rule setup , note the position of the pick up pipe in the photo which is between the ribs & about 2 mm below the bottom. This prevents any damage to the pipe / bracket should the rear of the boat become grounded. Just on pump size , my tank is a similar size to yours & I run a 360 which is more than adequate. A 500 is not necessary & with the outlet diameter currently fitted the tank will overflow . Geoff Edited December 21, 2012 by Geoff
filthmonger Posted December 21, 2012 Author Posted December 21, 2012 Thanks Geoff yeah gonna head down BCF when i get the chance they do the 360 Rule and the pickup mount as well. Any tips on screwing it into the transom?
Guest Aussie007 Posted December 21, 2012 Posted December 21, 2012 i dont know what happen to my post could swear i posted in this thread anyway what size tank is that? you'll find 40L on the ass like that will make it difficult to drive the boat as the nose will be way high if u find the weight a problem u can make the drainage holes lower and run the return hose thru the transom so the tank only half fills and is half the weight
filthmonger Posted December 21, 2012 Author Posted December 21, 2012 Gazza its a 25L drum with the drainage where it is it probably holds around 20L. If there is any drama with it ill probably just throw a counter weight up the front some where or get my mate to sit up the front while she gets on a plane.
Guest Aussie007 Posted December 21, 2012 Posted December 21, 2012 Gazza its a 25L drum with the drainage where it is it probably holds around 20L. If there is any drama with it ill probably just throw a counter weight up the front some where or get my mate to sit up the front while she gets on a plane. 25L is perfect for small boats i just asked cause the 65L drums look similar i have a 65L for my small 4.3m boat and it was really awkward to drive but ive had a 20L pale filled to the top in my small boat and worked well so u should be ok take some pics when u have livies in there or even a video
filthmonger Posted December 21, 2012 Author Posted December 21, 2012 Will do, hoping to have it running on monday, gonna troll some livies from the Hacking to Marley, give the new downrigger a spin too.
Geoff Posted December 21, 2012 Posted December 21, 2012 (edited) Thanks Geoff yeah gonna head down BCF when i get the chance they do the 360 Rule and the pickup mount as well. Any tips on screwing it into the transom? Only use 316 stainless screws. You will also need 2 small bolts & nyloc nuts , either 1/8" or 5/32" to mount the blue base to the bracket. It is wise to apply a product like Sikaflex around the holes in the boat prior to fitting the bracket. There are two types of Sikaflex , 291 & 212FC. I think 219 is the correct product but it's not cheap , $16 for a small tube & once opened , the tube can go off rather quickly. I've found laying a folded piece of film , like Glad Wrap over the nozel prior to screwing on the cap helps preserve the contents. The alternative is to purchase a tube of Silicon sealant suitable for Aluminium from a hardware store. These cost only a few $$$ & does the same job. Just on the fastners , BCF only sell in packets & you end up with more than needed which = more $$$. I see you live at Cronulla so a trip to Whitworths at Caringbah may be worthwhile as they sell fastners in single units. Also , compare the prices for the pump / bracket. I think you will find Whitworth less expensive. Geoff Edited December 21, 2012 by Geoff
filthmonger Posted December 21, 2012 Author Posted December 21, 2012 Fellow Cronulla boy! yeah im keen to go to Whitworths it all depends on whether BCF gives me a refund or store credit for the Johnson.
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