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Understanding swells


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Hi All!

So, recently I decided to get into rockfishing and went out a few times to see how it goes. I've chosen days when swell forecast was below 1m to be safe. I well researched fishing spots and went out to locations which were reported on this forum, as well as were featured in some videos. When I look at typical rockfishing videos, I see people standing on the rocks with waves gently lapping around them, occasionally wetting their feet a bit. However, every time I was out, I got soaked, and soaked thoroughly. Waves crashing and spraying me from head to toes... Water very turbulent, throwing my bait like crazy. Last week swell size was 0.4m for 3 days in a row, and I still got completely drenched and lost my float when it got sucked under by a big wave. I honestly have no idea what I'm doing wrong.

Can you guys please advice me on what might be the problem. Maybe some videos or articles about this? I am spooked enough about rockfishing, and bracing for impact in smallest swell in months isn't my idea for fun time at all... 

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3 minutes ago, sashkello said:

Hi All!

So, recently I decided to get into rockfishing and went out a few times to see how it goes. I've chosen days when swell forecast was below 1m to be safe. I well researched fishing spots and went out to locations which were reported on this forum, as well as were featured in some videos. When I look at typical rockfishing videos, I see people standing on the rocks with waves gently lapping around them, occasionally wetting their feet a bit. However, every time I was out, I got soaked, and soaked thoroughly. Waves crashing and spraying me from head to toes... Water very turbulent, throwing my bait like crazy. Last week swell size was 0.4m for 3 days in a row, and I still got completely drenched and lost my float when it got sucked under by a big wave. I honestly have no idea what I'm doing wrong.

Can you guys please advice me on what might be the problem. Maybe some videos or articles about this? I am spooked enough about rockfishing, and bracing for impact in smallest swell in months isn't my idea for fun time at all... 

  1. First of all Never go Alone, unless its a spot which is well known and lots of people are there to help you if you go in. Granted I have went alone on swell below 1m on a high ledge but people later turned up since i was first one there
  2. In general terms Most ledges where i fish are low ledges so only fishable on a 1.2m or lower although i know some that i can quite comfortably fish on a 4m due to it being a high ledge 6m up
  3. Rocks have personalities on them. Before I even go rock fishing i do stacks of research. Along the sydney coast swell predominate are NE to S. I spent 4 Entire days observing various ledges above 1.5m because it exaggerates how waves hit a particular rock. It tells where you can stand and where NOT to stand. the worst thing that has happened to me is waves getting to my knees but not much force.
  4. Upon arrival look at the rock for 20 min. I bring to 2 set ups and Don't rig up i am forced to observe several sets while rigging.
  5. keep eye on size of waves 300 m away
  6. from my observation most of northern beaches low ledges i prefer to fish the last bit of lowering tide to first half of rising tide.
  7. Only 2 ledges i know i can comfortably fish on a 1.4m tops. if not fishing off a cliff

These are my 5

  • spots are effected by wind direction. Same direction with swell = big swell. cross direction or opposite means lower swell height as long as its above 10km
  • Geography, are there any rocks eating the force of the waves from a particular direction first?
  • swell height below 1.2 on northern beaches
  • swell period<10 unless below 1m
  • Tide

I have fished 4 spots for months to understand how things work. for example north curl curl i would only fish on a southerly up to 1.1-1.2 depending on tide. easterly i would fish much lower

 

 

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You should consider tide height as well as the ledge height when looking at the swell height if you dont want to get wet.

Getting wet is fine, but be careful of the period, which is usually shown in seconds when looking at the forecast. The higher the seconds, the more dangerous it becomes. Ideally keep below 10second range as a safe number. But again, everything should be factored in as you could still find places to fish safely in most conditions. I think I lot of people run in to problems as they only focast on the height of the swell. You could have a 1m swell and a 15second period and get wiped out.

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Posted (edited)
13 minutes ago, Rob81 said:

You should consider tide height as well as the ledge height when looking at the swell height if you dont want to get wet.

Getting wet is fine, but be careful of the period, which is usually shown in seconds when looking at the forecast. The higher the seconds, the more dangerous it becomes. Ideally keep below 10second range as a safe number. But again, everything should be factored in as you could still find places to fish safely in most conditions. I think I lot of people run in to problems as they only focast on the height of the swell. You could have a 1m swell and a 15second period and get wiped out.

Yeah, tide was at lowest point when I was out last week. Interesting info about period though...

Edited by sashkello
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1 hour ago, sashkello said:

Yeah, tide was at lowest point when I was out last week. Interesting info about period though...

The period is basically the time between two waves. Soo the longer the period, the more water in between. So easiest way of thinking about it is, like filling up a tub of water, the longer you fill it for, the more water you have, and then when that set hits you, its the same as dumping that tub at you side ways.

So its easier to remain standing, if a full bucket of water thrown to you, compared to say a bathtub of water.

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Keep in mind that what is forecast in swell height WILL NOT always happen. You will find an occasional wave that will be double the forecast, reason being that waves travel at different heights and different speeds. 2 smaller waves, travelling at different speeds, will catch up to each other, then combine into one wave, which will most likely increase in height and speed, and it will barrel into the rock ledge and you will not have much time to work out what to do to save yourself. 

Study the waves at different locations to see what really happens WHILE YOU ARE NOT FISHING. 

Also keep in mind that rockfishing in Australia is THE MOST DANGEROUS SPORT OF ALL.

Edited by Yowie
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21 minutes ago, Yowie said:

Keep in mind that what is forecast in swell height WILL NOT always happen. You will find an occasional wave that will be double the forecast, reason being that waves travel at different heights and different speeds. 2 smaller waves, travelling at different speeds, will catch up to each other, then combine into one wave, which will most likely increase in height and speed, and it will barrel into the rock ledge and you will not have much time to work out what to do to save yourself. 

Study the waves at different locations to see what really happens WHILE YOU ARE NOT FISHING. 

Also keep in mind that rockfishing in Australia is THE MOST DANGEROUS SPORT OF ALL.

Often 3 weather systems are there. Which is why i give myself 20 minutes rigging up time to eyeball rock

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Copping spray is annoying and uncomfortable in winter, but welcome in summer. Copping a wave is where the danger lies.

Comfort: Expect to get sprayed legs and constantly wet feet if you fish low platforms. Wearing a lightweight spray jacket on top helps keep you comfortable.  Wear shorts so you can swim if you go in. Think about other things you wear with an unwanted swim in mind.  Sharkskin (or similar) socks are good for keeping feet a little warmer when wet. Wool socks are OK and less costly than Sharkskin.  Footwear needs will depend on the type of rocks you fish from. 

Before you start: When you first arrive at the rocks, look for wet patches and dry area and interpret what is happening from those. That doesn't mean the situation is not changing (e.g. if the tide is rising, waves will wash more across the rocks).  As above, watch the swell for a good period of time before you start, including 'are waves now wetting previously dry places'.  

Choose your spot with forethought what might happen if you do get knocked off your feet (e.g. will you go into a rock filled gutter, pounded by waves or do breaking waves lose power across a very wide shelf with no obstructions). Stay well clear of anywhere that may result in a slide across barnacles! Waves accelerate up steeply sloping rocks. Avoid!

Make sure you have a fast, safe retreat path chosen before you start fishing. 

While fishing: Safe rock-hoppers are in a habit of watching the swell. It's all about improving judgement. The more you watch, the more you understand what to expect when the swell reaches shallow water and rocks. Swell-watching needs to become a constant habit, including when playing fish. The penalty for a lapse of focus can be extreme. 

A 'freak wave' is actually different swells arriving at your location at the same time. Allow for 60% increase over average wave height. You don't need to panic a large wave is going to sneak up on you, but you do need to watch, or one might.  

Do nothing near the water that takes your focus away from watching the swell. Leave your gear well back in a safe location and do all gear changes there.
Like all things, skill comes with time and experience.   Preferably, earn with someone with a lot of experience.  Otherwise, a second pair of eyes watching the swell is better than only one pair.

Start easy. Work up s-l-o-w-l-y.    

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I dont rock fish but I have surfed all over Australia for many years, so to add about swell:

The further away a swell comes from, the longer the period between waves. In winter we typically get swell coming from a long way out in the ocean, or even from a far away cyclone. The waves come in "sets" of usually 3 -5 waves, although cyclone swells can have up to 10 waves in a set. The waves are maybe 10+ seconds apart. In between the sets the ocean is basically flat, anything from dead flat to tiny waves for periods of up to 10 minutes at times. So dont be fooled by a flat ocean in winter. When the waves come, they will be big. And the so-called "freak wave" typically comes in about once every 2 hours and yes, it can be up to 60% the size of the normal waves. A double size wave usually occurs once a day.

Swell also increases in size on the upcoming tide, and decreases in size on the falling tide.

Swell generated from local storms tends to be choppy and the waves are closely spaced and the size of the waves varies a lot as some waves double up on each other due to the close spacing.

 

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