helliconia
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Posts posted by helliconia
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You could use the D shackle mount under the towball to attach a small pulley to, then run the cable from the winch under the boat to the pulley and back to the trailer hitch. Just make sure the pulley is rated for the weight.
Wind the cable in and it will pull the trailer straight to your towball.
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Maybe the comps get exemption for the pro fisherman...
As I said before the rules are too open to interpretation. They should be clarified in the official rules so there's no confusion.
I'd be inclined to agree with the "pro" status as part of the legislation deals with recreational fishing.
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What bugs me the most is the 4.8m boat garbage. You would be better off in a new 4.5m boat than some 20 year old 5m rust bucket!!! Makes no sense to me? It could be argued this rule is discriminatory towards those who cannot afford a bigger boat! These rules should be applied to all boats or none!
Perhaps the rule should be based on the boats flotation rating? i.e. BASIC vs LEVEL
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When mine works (seems to be a bit temperamental about when it will show the gold maps) it shows channel markers and navigation information. I haven't noticed too many custom marks, although with the PC software and a card reader you can access user supplied marks for various spots.
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If I remember correctly the rules state you must remain at least 30m from other vessels when navigating a waterway. This would include manouvers when anchoring.
Obvously you apply common sense to some locations like moorings which can be pretty close together, but if the rule applies technically then they're still breaking it.
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You can get those cradle rod holders that you lay the rod in, much easier to pick the rod up than in a vertical rod holder. I'd imagine that would be as close as you can get to what you're after.
That, or hire someone to hold your rod while you sip champagne in the cabin
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I'd concur with Heuy, a 60 on a 4.8+m boat isn't going to pull a wake boarder. I have a 60 4 stroke yamaha on my 4.75m and its fine for fishing and maybe pulling a tube, but not for what you want it for.
I'd also add that for wakeboarding a tinny might not give you much fun either unless you leave the bung out and half fill the hull with water (I've done that in mine and thought the wake was quite good for boarding if I wasn't so concerned about sinking it
). Tinny's just don't have the weight and displacement to create the steep wake that boarders like to play in. This is why the dedicated boats for this have ballast tanks to weigh the back down and make them plough through the water.It might be possible to buy an after market ballast bladder for under the floor if you look around, but the hulls weren't designed for this so I'd be concerned about stressing it with the weight and unnatural planing angle.
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Added my 2c worth
Which subject are you doing this for? I did my undergrad in business so if I can offer any help drop me a message, I might be able to offer some tips to help you get that HD
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Funny how it powers other things up only on transmit. It will be drawing more power on transmit than if it's just sitting there receiving, so the normal occurrence is for other electronics to possibly dim, not power up when you transmit, but this really shouldn't happen anyway if everything is correct. When you transmit, it will pump power to the antenna. You haven't done anything with the antenna wire by any chance have you? All you should need to do with that is mount the base and run the coax to the back of the radio. No separate power leads should run to the antenna, and nothing else should be anywhere near, or have a chance of touching either the base of the antenna or the coax (antenna lead) or plug where it goes into the back of the radio.
It will also draw more current in transmit, which could bridge any close gaps that aren't bridged in low current use.
Check the wiring behind the switches and along the of the power leads for the radio. I wouldn't think the antenna would be shorting to turn a light on but can't hurt to check that too. Try disconnecting the aerial lead and hit transmit and see if the problem still occurs. If not, its in your power cabling somewhere.
I always use heatshrink when I strip wires to terminate them, adds some extra insulation down to the point I want exposed.
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I've also seen and caught good sized rainbows in the Coxs River which flows into Warragamba Dam.
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I have a pair of the amaber Spotters and I love 'em!
The grey ones will mute all light levels, good for really sunny days, but the amber ones focus on the harsher light colours and leave the rest.
Since I use mine for driving too, I find the amber ones excellent in both scenarios, especially the high glare times as the sun nears the horizon. Everything actually looks brighter, but not as straining on your eyes.
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I have a 4 piece 6'6" glass 3-6kg rod I bought for carrying on my motor bike a few years ago. Matched it to a cheap abu baitfeeder 2500 reel with 10lb braid. I still use it on the boat now so they're sturdy enough. I think it cost me under $100 when I bought it. The reel wasn't very expensive either, around $50 I think.
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I was up at Taree visiting a mate on the Australia Day long weekend and we had some success at the mouth of the Manning River around the turn of the high tide. Got some nice bream on blades off the southern side breakwall on the last of the incoming.
Interestingly, as soon as the tide change the bite stopped on the bream and small tailor started hitting the lures. Lost a couple of my favourite blades to the razor tooth gang with my light leader (10lb Vanish).
About an hour after the tide started running out we saw a load of pelicans show up at the breakwall. They led the wall of mud coming down the river by about 20 feet and just dunked their heads for loads of fish. As soon as the brown hit we left and went home.
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If you think about the action you're giving to the plastic, the "hit on the drop" is not surprising with flathead.
The twitch bit lifts the plastic off the bottom and makes it dance around so the flathead notice it. The retrieve and pause as it sinks is when they rush over the grab it.
Occassionally you'll get lucky and twitch one right on his nose and he'll strike, but mostly it will be on the drop.
The trick is keep a little tension on the line as it drops soy ou're ready to strike when they snatch it.
It's also worth having a variety of colours and pattterns available. If one doesn't ge you results, switch and try something else. I have a preference for the green and red atomic wrigglers for flatties and I have to remind myself to try something else if I'm not having any success.
Keep at it, I find SP's can be really frustrating and at the same time really rewarding when you get a fish in the net
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So im normally quite eager to post my reports but as of late there hasnt been much to talk about so im combing my last 3 trips.
firstly was a blackfish session in the harbour, there still biting and in good numbers, in a few hours i landed 6 and lost a few more. biggest being 41cm.
My next adventure took me to bronte where we braved the swell to land 2 legal tailor and two legal trevs biggest being 43cm. all on pilchards and a running star sinker.
and my next trip too me to bondi where the swell was huge and the epic storm came through
. no fish but an awesome site. For a second there I thought the waterfall was wave run off and I wondered how dedicated a photographer you'd have to be to stay and take the photo
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I can't speak to the rods, but I have a Sahara 2500 I use for plastics and blades and its a great reel. I snapped the tip on the Sahara rod it came with originally and replaced it with another brand graphite 7'. I use 6lb braid and haven't ever had a problem
The drag on the Sahara seems good, none of the jerkiness I've felt in other cheapish reels.
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Nice fish, congratulations.
Nice work getting a few plugs for your business in too
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Sounds like a great project! Looking at your content I'm not sure you're going to be able to give much useful advice in the space you've allocated to some sections.
If the idea is to target beginners it might be worth targeting bread and butter species like bream, flathead, and whiting. If you stick to a few species you can cover things in a bit more depth.
I also think a section on lure fishing would be handy - some descriptions of lure types and their use, which ones for which species, etc.
If your adding a website component, a mobile site (m.yourwebsitename.com.au) that they can use to access info while fishing, and a database driven diary they can post pictures and locations to. You could automatically add tide and moonphase info to their diary entries using the GPS function of the phone.
Finally, nothing is going to turn a new fisherman off more than catching their first fish then butchering it in the pan. Perhaps a few simple recipes that suits different species would be worth adding.
I would also add that you want to be careful how much info you offer for free on the website. It's hard to sell a magazine if the content is free online. Is it going to be a regular magazine or a one off?
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Kirst, "The Peak" is a deep water fishing spot well off the coast of Sydney (well maybe not so deep to some haha). Basically its a small mountain on the ocean floor. There's coordinates in our GPS section but I couldn't make them convert to a lat/long that google maps would read to show you.
I've never been there so forgive me if I have any details wrong
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If you can get hold of a copy of AS/NZ 3004 it may tell you what the standard is for wiring earths on recreational vessels. This standard was developed/updated in 2007 and covers marinas and recreational vessels with low voltage wiring (<50v). If they've broken the standard you'd have grounds for a complaint with fair trading under the fit for purpose provisions. From a practical standard point if it is common knowledge that this wiring configuration causes electrolysis then I would try them anyway.
My Brooker was wired out of the factory with positive and negative bus bars and nothing is earthed to the hull. If this action is particular to the dealer and Quintrex doesn't do the wiring then I'd lodge a complaint also with Quintrex. Often manufacturers will be willing to fix it to preserve their reputation and may even discipline the dealer if they are bringing the brand into disrepute.
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Thank you both very much.
So if I'm not mistaken, with the info you have both given me, if I travel around Juno to fish at Patonga and the swell is larger than half a meter (which if normally is), I need to set up the safety gear in my boat for "Open Waters".
Do we all agree?
I thought it was 2nm from the coast/port? If thats the case then 2nm from Barranjoey or Juno Pt/F&S would be the area for closed water safety equipment. I'm not set up for open water safety (EPIRB and VHF radio etc) and I've been inspected at Lion Island by water police and passed OK. The swell was definitely over .5m.
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Not yet...it would involve an external device as well
Just use a snap swivel and attach your iPhone to your rod, turn on the camera recorder and hurl it out. Retrieve and replay the video
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Although my 4.75m is a tinnie I do the same as some here. I drive on the trailer to the winch post, leave it in gear (forward idle is usually enough) and then hang over the front and do up the safety chain and winch. After turning off the engine and tilting it up, my partner drives the car up the ramp and I jump out and tighten the winch.
I can do it all alone the same by just jumping over the side after securing it and driving the car myself. Theres a few mins wasted when I drive the car down the ramp and fetch the boat but noones yelled at me yet as I don't daudle on the ramp any longer than necessary.
Launching is similiar, although I undo the chain and winch, then climb up the side of the boat off the mudguard and drive it off with a little reverse. I don't launch it too deep when doing it this way so the boat doesn't slide off without me
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put in a base for bucket/live bait /small 6/12V car/bike battery for pump/night light.......think about wheels/tyres to suit sand.......if to be used as a seat as well increase the area of the opposite side to wheels so you don't sink.....rod holders
I was going to suggest a motorcycle battery if your only use low drain electrics like LED's and small pumps. Half the size of a car battery.
A set of 4 inflatable tyres off a couple of furniture trolleys would work too. Deflate them a little for the sand and they should work well. If you have stairs to contend with use the tri-wheel furniture trolley wheels. Give you 2 wheels on the sand and the rotating axle for stairs.
I'm picturing a large round live tank, with a smaller bucket stored inside for filling and bait, then attach some PVC tube for rod and net holders around the livie tank. A canvas bag hanging off handle end crossbar for loose tackle like pliers and knives, and a hard plastic tackle box under the seat.
Put the light in an telescopic pole with a swivel mount so you can light your way ahead when your pushing it.
Oh and rod holders under the seat pointing outwards, you could just roll up to your spot and your set!
All it needs is an engine and it will be better than my car!!
). Tinny's just don't have the weight and displacement to create the steep wake that boarders like to play in. This is why the dedicated boats for this have ballast tanks to weigh the back down and make them plough through the water.
. no fish but an awesome site. 
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My work background is in IT projects and strategy. Social media has become the latest fad in the industry, but not many companies have really figured out how to do it well.
My 2 cents worth is:
FB is only useful if you have a specific message you want to get to the public, or have a driving need to improve brand recognition.
FR should look at using it if you want to achieve any of the following:
* Run a membership drive to increase traffic to fr.com.au
* Promote awareness of a specific campaign (ie fishing safety, conservation, political action)
* Offer sponsors improved benefits by promoting them in a social arena
* promote community events to further the goals of FR or fishing engagement
If you don't need to do any of these, then leave it alone. It will just create extra work for the admins and open the FR brand to internet trolls and sledgers.
Personally I don't see the point for FR at the moment, but it does provide possibilities to bring the FR brand to a wider audience if you see value in doing so.
If you do want to go down this path, I'm happy to help out with some info on how to go about managing it