m_a-wright

I think you will find that telwater is Stacer not Savage. I have a Stacer Proline and had no problem getting the paint through the dealer.

Hi Fishoman, I had the same problem and i purchased a 12v electric trailer winch from super cheap auto for around $90. The winche come with a 3 meter lead with remote control . I bolted the winch to the garage floor with 3 dyna bolts and use a sling with 3 d shackles to connect to the rear of the trailer and winch cable. Although noisy and relatively slow the unit works fine. Being 12 volt instead of using a battery to power the winch and recharging the battery i also purchased a 12 v power supply from Jaycar and operate the winch diirectly from the power supply. From memory the power supply was 13 amp and cost around $70. These winches only pull in one direction so i dont know if they would be suitable for your application if you wanted to take the boat out of your garage under power. What i also found useful was a jockey wheel that i fitted to the trailer with a rachet device and extended removable lever that allows you to move the trailer with virtually no effort.

Hi empty hooks, Sorry but i dont have any before picks. The metal pockets that you mentioned is the same as what i have (From factory) but i did not remove them as i wanted the storage. That is why i have used the front casting deck as the set height to provide the extra space. The construction is basically a front panel, two side panels cut to profile fit over side storage pocket and a base plate. They are painted them trimmed with marine carpet. The base plate is screwed to the exsisiting deck and as i mentioned i have used a couple of brackets at each end of the locker to screw back to the gunwales for support. Hope this helps but i can take some more detailed photos if you wish. Regards, mark

Hi Raiders, I would like to share with you my latest project for my 429 stacer proline angler. I kept the storgae pocket that was factory fitted when i purchsed the boat and the rod racks themselves are amazingly enough an Australian made product by SEA DOG and reasonably priced at $40 for a box of 6 and available from BCF. Fortunatly my rods are short enough that they all fit within the locker but you can comfortably drill through into one of the forward storage compartments if you wanted to store longer rods. The locker is a stand alone unit conveniently screwed to the floor and supported by a couple of brackets to the gunwales. So if at a later stage it is easy to remove if you wanted to do so. I have also made it lockable.

Hi Cut_loose, Unfortunately the price was for one and the seat did not come with it, sorry.

Hi fishingphase, This is how i wired my boat that might give you a few ideas. I have a 4.2m stacer proline angler. I built a false floor between the rear fuel trays and battery trays and fitted a electrical box where i house the fuse box. Each appliance is wired to the switch panel on the side console and fused individually. This way it is very conveinient to add extra appliances as you only have to run extra cables from the appliance/switch panel and fuse box. I ran spare cables when i was fitting out the boat. The electrical box is fitted with a lid and the wires are fed through the side of this to the fuse box to provide an extra level of protection. The whole assembly is connected to a dual battery system. Access to the fuse box is through a hinged lid and is part of the carpeted deck. If you happen to blow a few it is very easy to get to.

Hi Cut_Loose, I looked at making my own but found these from All FibreGlass in Melbourne (contact Tony Tubby 0403 656 756). I think from memory they were about $350 which seems expensive but when you take into account materials and labour etc i thought they were good value for money. They stand about 430mm high so you sit comfortably without your knees under your chin.

Hi, Hi Thrust, I had the same problem and as per the previous reply i purchased a cheap boat winch from super cheap auto. I bolted the plate to the garage floor and attached a sling to the wire rope of the hoist that attaches to 2 points on the back of the trailer. The unit is 12v so instead of using a seperate battery and recharging it i purchased a 12 amp power supply from tandy (about $50) and connected it up to the hoist. The hoist pulls about 5 amps. These units are very noisy but it does the job. The hoist comes with a remote control lead around 3 metres so all you do is adjust the boat as it is pulled up the drive into the garage. Once you are on the flat in the garage you position easlily enough by hand. It certainly beats pushing it by hand.

Thanks Terry, Sounds excellent. I will tell the mrs you told me to buy it. How did you go with your livewell? Cheers, Mark.

Hi Terry, I have been looking at updating my electric and was looking the i pilots. How does is go with the orientating of the boat with the electronic anchor and what sought of accuracy does it hold on your postion?

Hi Squidboy, There is an option to drill out the broken screw and fit a threaded insert called a helicoil or recoil. You can buy the kits from an engineering supply store. The inserts come in stainless steel. The inserts themselves have a larger thread on the ouside than the internal thread but the outer thread is a non standard thread, hence the need to purchase a special tap. They come in a range of sizes.

Hi Terry, With fitting your electric motor i would highly recommend fitting a Minn Kota on board charger. I have fitted the minn kota plug and socket and installed a circuit breaker between the plug and the battery. This way you can keep the battery permanantely connected and isolate at the circuit breaker. I mounted the breaker in a small electrical box and positioned it in one of the front storage compartments. The on board charger certainly takes alot of hassle out of carry seperate chargers around.

Hi Terry, To manage the height of the water in the livewell i did exactly as you mentioned. Rule sell a complete kit that includes the fitting and pipe but you can buy these seperatly if you want. It is basically a drain fitting with a pipe with a rubber seal. You can cut the length of the tube to determine the level you want the water to reach. This is why the outlet should be larger than the inlet so the the water drains out faster than you can fill it, having said that the inlet sprayer does not need to be fully open but that is why i installed a second overflow (32mm) out to the side just in case of blockages etc. The height of this i made slightly higher than the top of the upright tube When you want to drain the tank you just remove the pipe. The live well at the front should be higher than the outlet so that should give a natural fall and with the pressure of the water (Head) draining the tank should not be a problem. I also purchased the stand alone rule aerator that you can use to recirculate the water in the tank if the boat is out of the water. You can run that off a cigarette lighter socket (always pays to wire a few of those around the boat). Lastly in regards to height of the inlet and outlet fitting you can see that i was limited to where they can go but if your boat has already been in the water you will see a water line that will give you an indication of where the water line is. If not the manufacturer should be able to tell you what the displacement is or simply put it in the water and measure it. The bilge pump exits at the back side corner of the boat and the skin fittings, uniouns, hard piping are the Hansen brand (you can look this up on their website). These were purchased from an irrigation supplier. The website tells you where the stockists are so you should be able to find one near you if you decide to go with that brand. Hope this answers all your questions. all the best, Mark.

Hi Terry, Attached a few photos of the pump assemby we discussed. I have also included my wiring assembly for your reference being that you are fitting out your new purchase. I fitted a central fuse box in an IP 55 box(Not fully waterproof now being i have drilled holes in the side) that is incorporated into a dual battery system. It is wired to the switch panel on the console. This way each individual appliance is seperately fused and if you need to add extra accessories it is simple to run an extra cable. If a fuse blows it is easy to get to.I have found this to be very useful. Hope the pump assembly makes sense. As you can see i have hard plumbed the pump with rigid pipe to the ball valve incorporating unioun joints so in the event you have to change the pump or do maintenace you can undo the uniouns and lift the pump assy out, no fiddly pipe clamps to loosen. I am sure other members will have there own way of doing things but i have found this method to be effective. As mentioned in my prevoius post i modified the anchor well at the front of the boat into a livewell so if you adpot this idea you will have to run the pipes under the floor. If you need anymore info i am happy to help. have fun, Mark.

Hi Terry, I modified the front anchor well into a livewell. I used the hansen tank tittings for the through hull fittings as they have a rubber seal and are made from glass rienforced nylon. (Silicon adheres well to this not like poly) They also have an internal thread so you can block them off if you want to. I used the marine 290 sikaflex on these fittings. I also attached ball valves to the thru hull fittings so that you can isolate in case there is a fault in the pump and you dont flood the boat. Make sure that the height of the pump is below the water line so you dont get air pockets and it makes the pump self priming. Also ensure that the drain line is larger than the inlet line so the tank will drain properly but be aware that if you do not isolate the tank when on the plane that the water in the tank will be sucked out (Good reason for isolating the inlet and outlet lines with a ball valve). I also run a larger hose out the side of the tank as an emergency overflow if the other drain line gets blocked. I mounted the pump on a individual ally plate and used union joints and hard piping to connect between the ball valves. This was because i had heaps of trouble with the spiral hose tube that i was recommended and could not get it to seal properly (the pipe had a white inner spiral on the inside) i had to take the floor up twice to run new hose. Depending on how much money you want to spend the flowrite brand is really good and the valves can be operated electronically but it depends on your budget. I purchased my fittings from a pump irrigation supplier and the pump i used was the johnson low profile (purchased from BCF). I can post some photos if you need any further info. Hope this helps, Regards, Mark.