martoiscool

Yeah went in for its service. Everything was fine. As far as I can tell it's a completely random noise, comes and goes when it pleases, cannot replicate it at home on the ear muffs. Might call the dealer and email them a better video next time it does it. It's to far away simply to drive it there and for it to not make the noise!!

Better not be sick! It's a brand new motor!! Only done maybe 25hrs. I'm keen to know if it's what Dunc333 mentioned above about the solenoid.

I should add the motor was warmed up and had been running for about 30mins before I filmed the video.

https://vimeo.com/133922803 I filmed that about a month ago now. It's a bit hard to hear especially with the chop there was at the time but the motor is idling normal and in neutral. The noise kicks in about 7 seconds into the video. It's like slipping belts on a car. I give it a few revs as this usually makes it disappear. After a few attempts revving it it stops just before the end of the video. As I said before not convenient to take to dealer due to distance away. Motor still runs fine, does it in neutral and in gear, but not all the time and just pops up randomly. Does this sound like the solenoid valve? Since this video I noticed that I wasn't opening up the bleed valve on top of the plastic fuel tank so it wasn't allowing air in and thought maybe it was struggling to suck up the fuel. I doubt it though.

Yeah still under warranty but not real convenient to head to the dealer. I had it out today running for a good three hours and couldn't get it to make the noise once... Strange.. I'm not that worried, motor still runs fine and did so when making the noise so it couldn't have been anything to major, just curious if anybody else had the same problem. It was a really cold night when it did it, maybe that had something to do with it, who knows...

Hi raiders, I have a 2014 Suzuki df50 with around 20hrs on it. The other night when I took it out crabbing I noticed it was making a strange noise. At idle and in the lower revs, it would make a belt slipping/sucking noise from the front of the motor, near where the cowling cover joins the lower half of the motor. It wasn't all the time, only intermittent and it did it in neutral and whilst in gear. I could get it to go away sometimes when in neutral if I gave it a quick rev, then backed off. But it would come back. Not sure if it does it at higher revs as the sound of the motor kills it out. Also I couldn't get it to do it when on the mufflers, flushing out the motor. Any ideas???

Yeah I think I may have dented the little steering motor when putting the steering housing back together. I did some further testing late last night. I hooked up the little motor to a battery I had laying around and it works fine. So I'm thinking that when it was in the drink or when I tried to move it side to side, the motherboard has blown or partly failed, and this is the reason I'm only getting a reading of 4ish volts off the wires after the motherboard. Sound about right?

Anyone got an idea??

Hi all, This is a question for all the electrical gurus out there. I've had cause to strip down my riptide ST 55 bowmount after it went for a swim. I've opened up and cleaned everything and I reckon it's as clean and saltwater free as new. Well when I tested it, everything worked except steering it left and right. I assumed I must have put the steering box back together wrong, so I pulled it apart and found that the little electric motor was dented slightly and I couldn't spin the shaft. I bent it back into shape and now the shaft spins but still no joy. I pulled out the multimeter and started testing. Now this is where my question comes in. What strenght of reading should I get when I'm testing the wires to the drive motor and pushing the left or right on the remote?? When I tested my battery I got the usual 12ish Volts on my multimeter show up. When I tested the wires it gets around 4 volts show up. Does anyone know if this is the correct amount of voltage that should be showing or should it be higher?? This testing was done after the mother board at the wires that connect to the drive motor to make sure it was getting power. The reason I'm asking is that it's $30 for the little motor from USA. Or I have to buy a new motherboard and motor from BLA at a cost of $580. If anyone knows what reading I should be getting don't be scared to speak up!!

Hey Timmy, How did u go with the spray deflector? I just fitted a new transducer and I'm having the same problem. Curious as to if it interferes with the transducers signal

Cheers Huey, yeah I'll use the V bracket that i have. It does have little tabs that the manual says are to be used for storage, not transport. But it doesn't have a provision for a trailering bracket. U would think for the money the motor cost they would integrate something into its design.

Cheers for the reply. I think I'll use the V bracket I have and pull it down into that

Hi raiders, I recently upgraded my boat and motor and I'm now running a tiller steer suzuki 50hp 4 stroke with power tilt trim. The bloke at the dealer said its fine just to leave the motor all the way up when traveling but should I support the leg somehow? For eg my mate has a 90 merc 4 stroke which has a fancy little H pattern bracket that the leg can be powered down onto. I was thinking of using the standard V shaped support that goes back down onto the trailer and power the motor down onto that. I did as he suggest back from brisbane to ballina and when I went to lower the motor it squealed a little, like air was in the Ram. So should the motor be pulled down so the ram is under pressure or just leave it resting freely? Cheers in advance for any opinions/personal experience! BTW the engine is sensational!!

Thanks for the pic. I ordered the same one to fit a elite 7 chirp. I'm making a little box for a switch panel and the sounder to mount to, that is bolted inside the side pocket. Should come up trumps

Thanks stevefish, nicely made box. I might incorporate that with a ram mount. Mii11x I can't see any of ur pics??