Have to totally with using Erskine epoxy - there is much, much better products out there than that. I currently use Flexcoat. And I rarely use colour preserver, there are plenty of good NCP threads out there now. Gudebrod is great if you can get it - their factory closed down for a while and they've only just started operation again and product is entering the market slowly. At the moment, I'm using prowrap, but Fishhawk is another good one that you can get locally. Avoid speed thread - way too many problems.
I mix my epoxy on a doubled-over sheet of (clean) aluminium foil that I drape over a little plastic cup, forming a little shallow cup on the foil. Never use medical syringes from the chemist to measure your epoxy, they are lined with a silicone-based lubricant that will play havoc with the epoxy. Only use syringes made specifically for rodbuilding. For brushes, I bought a bulk pack of disposable brushes from mudhole. You can buy brush cleaner, but for a rough cost of 25c a brush, it made a lot more sense to me to just throw it away and use a new one.
My rotisserie for epoxy drying is driven by a windscreen wiper motor from a 2nd hand auto parts store, while my rod lathe is made from an old sewing machine motor that is hooked up to a foot pedal. I do recommend getting a drying rotisserie, but a rod lathe is certainly not required to produce a professional product, it just makes the job faster and easier.
Rodbuilding is very much a case of trial and error, and there are thousands of little tricks that people have developed over the years for overcoming these problems. You will be fine as long as you can maintain your sanity after having to pull-apart and redo a job that you have spent the last 10 hours on. This will probably happen to you at some point.