lighthouse2k
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Posts posted by lighthouse2k
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There are no extra cables, its a straight rewire from a standard 2 battery switch. The main thing is it allows you to run the second battery in parralell in case you have a flat first battery. It is just an extra precaution. You will not be able to do this with other systems. It is basically just set and forget unless you want to use the parralell for starting. You can also turn all batteries off if that floats your boat. Ask Huey is you don't understand it. I only suggested it as you wanted the most fullproof answer.
http://www.bepmarine.com/Dual-Battery-Char...r-180-1464.html
may explain it more for you. It has a wiring diagram as well.
3 switches
1 start battery on/off
2 house battery on/off
3 parralell 2 batteries on or off
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Look at the one I gave you a description for. That is the entry level kit.
http://www.bla.com.au/index.php?fn=product...692b25b365e0f8c
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look at a BEP VSR with a house and starter battery switch and also a parrallel overide if you want to use both batteries for a start. Will never run your start battery down. $263 look on the BLA or BEP website. That is the best but there are other alternatives.
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If you a gonna troll I would take a lever drag like a tyrnos or the new TLD 2 speed.
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No that is no correct, you can specify 1600 or i think 2100 kg, tha was for my falcon anyway. They recommend load levelling kit over 1600. Over 2 tonne i think you need the assisted braking for the trailer.
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I have caught a couple of flathead there, seen one jew and the chopper tailor run through there every now and again as well.
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For the record I have caught 1 sqid there! Sometimes you need a lot of burley to get them up, you may have to wait 10 minutes or more as well but most of the time you should have some luck.
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Salt away. I does not appear to be a gimmick but I have not used it myself.
Chris
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OK I do not have wing nuts. The tacho is still working, just to clarify it stopped working last time when I replaced the regulator. After that the tacho has still been working fine. I started the motor, read the volts at the battery terminals and am getting 11.8 roughly which is the same as the fishfinder.
Thanks
Chris
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No worries, good checklist anyway
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Hi Chris
You dont mention if you have the Optimax or Carby motor and your method of testing. We sell electronics at work and we always ask how/where people are making their measurements if they complain about our product. I dont mean to offend you.
"Its a Carby Motor"
Ive got the 2000 model carby and I get 12.6-13.0'ish volts at low revs and 13.5-14.1 up on the plane. But i've never measured it accurately with my multimeter, these readings are only off my sounder. I think there is a extra <0.5 volts to be had if i measured direct off the battery."usually get up to around 14 volts if its all good, measured 11.8 off the battery and the sounder"
I know the voltage may go high if the regulator is blown. But im not sure if it can go low if it fails. Any idea what caused it to fail the first time? It sounds like a pattern may be forming. Our mate Huey will be on the case i the morning I would say. "Last time Tacho stopped working, low volts and maybe regulator had a bit of heat in it?"
You need to make sure that you are not running the motor with the battery switch off or without the battery connected/loose terminals. This can damage the charging system. A number of battery switches are make before break, meaning that there is always power connected when switching between position 1-both-2 etc. A good way to test this is to switch your nav lights on with the motor off and slowly switch your battery switch between different positions. If the lights go off between position 1 and Both it means you do not have make before break. In this case it is not recommend to switch between batteries when the engine is running. Some switches can have fancy alternator protection and would normally be marked to say so."Switch is fine. Don't lose power when switching and never run it past the off switch when motor is running"
If you have been recharging at home from a plug in charger or solar panel (without regulation) it would be advisable to isolate the engine from the battery while charging. Or has someone tried jump starting you with the leads reversed? Thats never a good thing."Have AGM batteries and never charge them except on the boat of course"
I dont suggest that you go out with it in the current condition
cheers, Rod
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I have a 2003 Merc 115 2 stroke.
I am not getting any more than 11.8 to 12.0 volts with revs running through the motor.
I just had the voltage regulator replaced about 20hrs ago and it has worked fine up until now. Anyone got any idea's. Would it be re reg again?
Thanks
Chris
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I got a 15 and I would definately put hydraulic on it. I haven't got it and it sucks. You will probably end up upgrading anyway!
Chris
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Penn 10x or Tortue. Penn 10x I use all the time and is very reliable.
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I have 2 stradics and 1 tierra. I would take the tierra, much more modern reel.
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My thought is go with the 4000, it will still handle decent rat kings and throw a good range of plastics. 6000 is a bit big for throwing plastics in my humble opinion.
Chris
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http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Varivas-Braided-Lin...2QQcmdZViewItem
Just found this braid cleaner on ebay for anyone who is interested.
Chris.
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I doubt you will need that much drag on that rod but the twinpower is still a nice reel. Always depends on how much you want to spend. I have a certate and I chose that over a twinpower. Although the full Japanese twinpower PG and HG models look the goods. I am pretty sure they are different to what we get here.
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I would look at a Daiwa Tierra. I have one of these for a Raider Snapper and its much better than a stradic. I have 2 of these also. Old technology these days, they are in need of a major update.
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It will never happen. The only way they will be able to do it is levy the licenses that we already pay for. the compliance cost compared the money they will generate will be too expensive.
Chris
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Geez, I would still prefer it if the spent more time targeting people raping rat kings. I don't know if that is our money well spent. As you said probably better of NSW maritime doing safety checks on their budget not ours.
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I have an oil cooler on my BA Auto. Also had the auto gearbox oil changed at 120 000 k and it was fine and the gear box is still pretty much perfect I would say, no shunt or funny noises, I have had to have the oil changed in the LSD diff twice so far though.
Mostly its run great and my mechanic reckons the BA onwards are a great car. The AU's are pigs!
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I've towed my 540f Melbourne to Sydney in a BA falcon ute and that is absolutely no problem. Use 3rd most of the time and it chews the juice but it gets there no problem at all. Get a bit of heat on the f3 but its never gone over half but they are some pretty big hills.
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We are looking at going out to browns tomorrow. The swell looks like it will be under a metre all day hopefully. If the wind stays down it should be ok.
Duel Battery Setup
in Boating
Posted
You cannot do any of the above with the $190 system.