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lighthouse2k

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Posts posted by lighthouse2k

  1. There are no extra cables, its a straight rewire from a standard 2 battery switch. The main thing is it allows you to run the second battery in parralell in case you have a flat first battery. It is just an extra precaution. You will not be able to do this with other systems. It is basically just set and forget unless you want to use the parralell for starting. You can also turn all batteries off if that floats your boat. Ask Huey is you don't understand it. I only suggested it as you wanted the most fullproof answer.

    http://www.bepmarine.com/Dual-Battery-Char...r-180-1464.html

    may explain it more for you. It has a wiring diagram as well.

    3 switches

    1 start battery on/off

    2 house battery on/off

    3 parralell 2 batteries on or off

  2. look at a BEP VSR with a house and starter battery switch and also a parrallel overide if you want to use both batteries for a start. Will never run your start battery down. $263 look on the BLA or BEP website. That is the best but there are other alternatives.

  3. For the record I have caught 1 sqid there! Sometimes you need a lot of burley to get them up, you may have to wait 10 minutes or more as well but most of the time you should have some luck.

  4. OK I do not have wing nuts. The tacho is still working, just to clarify it stopped working last time when I replaced the regulator. After that the tacho has still been working fine. I started the motor, read the volts at the battery terminals and am getting 11.8 roughly which is the same as the fishfinder.

    Thanks

    Chris

  5. Hi Chris

    You dont mention if you have the Optimax or Carby motor and your method of testing. We sell electronics at work and we always ask how/where people are making their measurements if they complain about our product. I dont mean to offend you.

    "Its a Carby Motor"

    Ive got the 2000 model carby and I get 12.6-13.0'ish volts at low revs and 13.5-14.1 up on the plane. But i've never measured it accurately with my multimeter, these readings are only off my sounder. I think there is a extra <0.5 volts to be had if i measured direct off the battery."usually get up to around 14 volts if its all good, measured 11.8 off the battery and the sounder"

    I know the voltage may go high if the regulator is blown. But im not sure if it can go low if it fails. Any idea what caused it to fail the first time? It sounds like a pattern may be forming. Our mate Huey will be on the case i the morning I would say. "Last time Tacho stopped working, low volts and maybe regulator had a bit of heat in it?"

    You need to make sure that you are not running the motor with the battery switch off or without the battery connected/loose terminals. This can damage the charging system. A number of battery switches are make before break, meaning that there is always power connected when switching between position 1-both-2 etc. A good way to test this is to switch your nav lights on with the motor off and slowly switch your battery switch between different positions. If the lights go off between position 1 and Both it means you do not have make before break. In this case it is not recommend to switch between batteries when the engine is running. Some switches can have fancy alternator protection and would normally be marked to say so."Switch is fine. Don't lose power when switching and never run it past the off switch when motor is running"

    If you have been recharging at home from a plug in charger or solar panel (without regulation) it would be advisable to isolate the engine from the battery while charging. Or has someone tried jump starting you with the leads reversed? Thats never a good thing."Have AGM batteries and never charge them except on the boat of course"

    I dont suggest that you go out with it in the current condition

    cheers, Rod

  6. I have a 2003 Merc 115 2 stroke.

    I am not getting any more than 11.8 to 12.0 volts with revs running through the motor.

    I just had the voltage regulator replaced about 20hrs ago and it has worked fine up until now. Anyone got any idea's. Would it be re reg again?

    Thanks

    Chris

  7. I doubt you will need that much drag on that rod but the twinpower is still a nice reel. Always depends on how much you want to spend. I have a certate and I chose that over a twinpower. Although the full Japanese twinpower PG and HG models look the goods. I am pretty sure they are different to what we get here.

  8. I would look at a Daiwa Tierra. I have one of these for a Raider Snapper and its much better than a stradic. I have 2 of these also. Old technology these days, they are in need of a major update.

  9. I have an oil cooler on my BA Auto. Also had the auto gearbox oil changed at 120 000 k and it was fine and the gear box is still pretty much perfect I would say, no shunt or funny noises, I have had to have the oil changed in the LSD diff twice so far though.

    Mostly its run great and my mechanic reckons the BA onwards are a great car. The AU's are pigs!

  10. I've towed my 540f Melbourne to Sydney in a BA falcon ute and that is absolutely no problem. Use 3rd most of the time and it chews the juice but it gets there no problem at all. Get a bit of heat on the f3 but its never gone over half but they are some pretty big hills.

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