Cladone

Just adding some additional investigations to determine some experienced thoughts from this forum. I've been assisted by a member on this forum very generously and I'm grateful. The information obtained has clarified many aspects I was confused about. Since that discussion it occurred to me that this 1500kg dry weight pilothouse is quite bow heavy. I noticed it on weekend when took it for a run. If all weight in pilothouse or forward from amidships you could tell it would dip slightly at bow. In speaking with a friend who is pretty knowledgeable and to the point, his thought process which made sense logically was that... The boat is rated to 200hp. Neither the specific boat design (nor my intended use) is really designed for racecar performance. With load all geared up and any engine choice looking at maybe 2.5t on the water overall. It's a heavy-is boat. He recommended something like the new Honda 175hp v6 with drive by wire. It's gear ratio is 2 to 1, it will produce good low and mid range torque and will be fuel efficient and enable you to reach cruising speed and also accelerate very quickly. The gear ratio is also suitable to boat type. Added to that it is a heavy engine maybe 70kg more than mercury 150. That will add some balance to the bow heavy situation too. Does anybody disagree with this reasoning and why? My initial thought was that it all made sense. Then questions started creeping in such as is adding a much heavier engine the answer, would its weight nullify the added power, or will it be able to push boat with ease not overworking and be more fuel efficient.... Just after some further thoughts on the issue to crystallise these relatively confusing concepts in my mind generally

Yes i took one out this past Sunday and was equally impressed with its handling, as well as stability at rest. I am confused about beam, as some literature and videos call it 2.5, other 2.55 which makes a difference. While i dont intend trailering it anyway, for the purpose of any resale etc it is relevant

Yes I have done this. Quite frankly I don't care about brand as such. Whichever engine gives the type of performance I'm looking for and represents good value, but has at least a strong foundation for general reliability then that's all I need. To that end, I note Honda is usually an undisputed king in reliability, yet I also see academically at least it probably not best performer compared to some of these others. Everybody always says dealer network, but I've always understood and experienced that if your local mechanics know how to work on a given engine whether Honda, Yamaha or merc and use genuine parts etc that's what matters isn't it with warranty and the like? Take Honda, there are not many dealers in my area, but plenty who know how to work on them and so long as genuine parts used etc warranty unaffected. So I never understood this sentiment, although my experience with outboards is limited and maybe I'm plain wrong about the point.

Parker is made in Poland. Yes I am surprised also and even more surprised that until recently it was rated to 150hp. I have seen a number of videos of this boat which also goes by Aleskadden P66 or something like that in Norway with 115s on it and it going quite well. I'll hopefully be taking one out in the next week. It is very much in the spirit of the arvors and merry fishers. Ticks a lot of boxes for some good fishing but family cross over and competitively priced. Ultimately I'm not a speed freak over extended distances. Like many the main considerations is moving between positions quickly when fishing, or needing to get out of curious situations etc... Don't want it to be sluggish, a good quick and nimble and responsive movement is main concern... Top end speed not so much. But for example I can probably get just for example a 150 Honda for 19k installed at the two helms, a Honda 175 with drive by wire for about 23k installed, yet a yammie 175 or merc v6 about 28k fully installed, so not merely a marginal difference and if not needed then...

This is very interesting. The 150 merc seems a good fit. What's the deal with SOHC 8 valve and others with DOHC 16 valve etc. What part does that play?

Sorry of course I can reject all options and for some added coin get merc v6 175 or whatever

Yes good point, making sure to what boats the Max hp applies and why the change...

Anybody with any experience at all with a 150hp verado?

Hi guys sorry I didn't receive notification of replies. It's a parker pilothouse 660 much like the merry fisher correct. Really nice boat and great ride. Used to be 150max now 200hp. Many are running around on 115. I have an option of a 150 Honda, or 150 merc or verado 150 with only 20hrs on it.

Hi all, as I am honing in on a new boat and always had used boats and stern drives, the question of outboard has raised its head and a little confused. One particular boat im looking at is 6.5m length (waterline) 7m overall with dry weight about 1500kgs. It used to be rated to Max 150hp but most recently updated that to 200hp. If budget wasn't an issue I'd probably just throw a 200hp on the back, but that's not the case. Is there some way to determine what to put on the back if there was no way to test it? I'm tossing up between Honda, merc and Yamaha and trying to get right power but minimise my expense. Or perhaps I should just wait till I can afford the 200hp, or perhaps a safe bet might be a 175. Dont know a great deal about this technical stuff

No it will be on dry rack or marina. It does fit smack bang in that bracket

Thought I'd just update this thread and thanks for any ongoing opinions or suggestions. I'm really liking the parker pilothouse 660 and am able to get it in my price range. All of its use, versatility and function aside which really ticks more boxes than many other boats for me and the family, is a query on how you would likely expect this boat to handle. While I will ultimately ride it, just curious about some things: http://www.parkerpoland.eu/models-Product-Name_Parker+660+Pilothouse_id_24.html You will see in some of the images at bottom of the Page of link I pasted there are some dimensions. One appears to be bow entry angle which shows like 38. I know it's transom deadrise is only 18 degrees. Other relevant measurements are also shown. I would typically expect such a transom deadrise to mean more fuel efficient, capable of more shallows and perhaps more stable at rest, but imagine would take a pounding in any decent seas. Yet, I know it's rated category b. I don't place a great deal on that kind of stuff, but just interested because category b would mean 40knt winds and 4m seas. I just can't see it. Below are some videos of this boat. It's called something else in Norway but the videos in link below are the exact same boat. Just trying to determine on pen and paper at least how this boat would be expected to handle in what conditions. May be mistaken about many assumptions and there may be alternatives out there I hadn't considered, but the dumb questions are the ones never asked I guess.

Thanks for that very clear response. Yeah I am aware of the formula referred to in the absence of a spec by manufacturer and assumed what you said to be the case. Just I was speaking to a particular boat distributor for a well known brand who said to me "you'd be fine with an extra person so long as total load is not exceeded" so was testing that because I didn't think it was accurate

G'day, I was just wondering if anybody knows... But if a boat says Max passanger capacity is 7, but Max load is 950kg, is it the 7 or the 950 that applies? If the boat comfortably fits more than the 7 and total weight of people and gear is far less than the 950kg, would you be able to put more than 7 or is it the 7 that applies?

I have heard a lot of people say mclay is very hard riding, but am keen on them and will check. Stabi out of my price range. Boat will either be wet berth or dry stack. Beam is 2.5m anyway and length 7m overall. Engine is new mercury v6 3.4L. I will check boat also as all reviews thus far have been really positive. Even though you prepared to drop 80+k doesn't appear to get you much by way of options for near new (which is my preference) I like the Yellowfin 7000, surtees and bar crusher, I like the Parker pilot house 660 too especially the walkaround capability and use of bow very easily, similar to barracuda 7 or merry fisher marlin 695. If I had the cash I'd probably end up with the barracuda

amazing what you can find when looking for something specific ... they are essentially the Haines Traveller hulls and just in case it is of interest, these were originally made in NZ for over 40 yrs, after the earthquake they moved to China, but local NZ folk still physically there for quality control etc. Made with resin infused fibreglass and no timber which is cool but not ground breaking. Everything except for hull made in NZ only hull is done in China (wish it was other way around :)). However, once complete, boats are sent to different (European) countries for independent certifications entirely removed from anybody in the build process. In light of all of that, i do have some comfort, and i probably would not discount it entirely because China is involved, although my instinct did gravitate to the same general attitude if i am being honest: This Safe Positive Floatation hull has been Independently Certified to meet Australian AS1799.1 Builders Plate Standards, the hull has also been Independently Tested and Certified to meet strict CE international Stability, Freeboard and Buoyancy standards, required by over 30 countries including Germany, UK, France and Denmark. Unlike some of its competitors whose standards are "Self Assessed" the Reflex commitment to saftey, Zero structural timber construction, strong one piece, foam filled internal stringer system, result in a quiet and strong Hull design. Something to consider of relevance anyway, so thanks for pointing it out....

Read an article that said they were locally made (NZ), but just searched that specific query and it did say China, you are right... hhmm. All reports seem to be quite positive as is the local warranty... have to dig further

my understanding is that these are made in NZ... where did you get info about build location? I can never access their website which would help

Continued my hunt and i have found and checked out the Reflex Chianti. NZ boat, i think using the old Haines hulls, or some relationship between the two companies with some cross over of some sort. Not much info about them to be honest online, but the limited opinions all seem to be somewhat positive. Specifically, the Reflex Reef Runner (sometimes known as R7 offshore) and the Reflex 720 (sometimes referred to as the 705) - i think both are 7m LOA. Both hardtop. Anybody know anything at all about this company or these specific boats? Greatly appreciated... Still looking at some alternatives, but was just wanting to get any feedback possible in the meantime

Thank you all for the replies, i will check some of those articles too, cheers. Also, dunc333, that was my error, regarding weight, the boats were essentially on par with weight, but was more trying to understand general relationship. Thank you noelm for that succinct assessment, it has clarified much, but as you all say, need to get on the water with a few.

I have a raymarine transom mounted transducer. I opted not to go thru hull. It lives in the water and never had any issues some 3yrs now. They also have mounting brackets so they can be slid up and wiped etc without lifting boat

Hi guys, just wondering how, if possible to get a gauge for how a boat might handle based on given specs in trying to narrow a boat search. For instance people often say fibreglass ride better and more comfy, typically due to increased weight, hull shape being able to be moulded more, material re acoustics against water etc. However if you see a plate boat say 7m length, weight of about 1200kgs (boat only) beam of 2.5 and then a fibreglass boat say the same dimensions but boat only weight at 900kgs or thereabouts, could it be the plate might ride better or be less susceptible to wind and chop or be more stable or not necessarily ? Trying to understand the relationship between these things generally speaking in assessing boats prior to water tests or there is no given rules of thumb in this context? Could just be an entirely ignorant question too not sure

Incidentally anyone have any experience or opinion on those baysport boats made in Noosa? All reviews online are from that guy who sells em up in brissy so can't take his comments without a grain of salt or more I imagine, but look decent and good value, even bordering cheap (relatively speaking for its size and inclusions etc) which concerns me a little

Gradys are weapons. Honestly the boats really taking my interest are caribbean 2300 and merry fisher marlin and barracuda 7. Kids are very young and the overnighting with all the fam very infrequent. I think I just need to get out there and physically check a few out, I'm sure it will quickly sway my view on things. The query was more geared to see if anybody had any specific suggestions or comments to assist narrowing the search and so far, very pleased as some useful info and some items I hadn't considered.

Thanks guys, just to clarify, don't want to fish 7, only fish 3 or 4 Max. But want to fit 7 people or so when out with the family and friends etc. In terms of sleeping it's 2 adults to young kids if that makes a difference and won't be often... Most modern boats have a burner and pie warmer, shower rinse can wash hands boil water that's all I need along with a toilet of some kind... Might have to consider a cabin cruiser like those bayliners or something but don't really want those...