Bait_drifta
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Posts posted by Bait_drifta
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4 hours ago, Marky mark said:
It won't harm the converted surface and will prime and protect the surrounding steel that has had the galvanizing removed due to grinding, welding etc. You can use a oil based paint instead but it won't like sticking to any bare metal around the edges of the job and doesn't help as much with rust protection whereas the cold gal will stick to anything and protects the bare metal better. With old gal trailers I'd be looking at trying to get fish oil over the top of everything and into hollow beams etc as much as possible as well. I used porr 15 once on an old gal trailer and it seemed to work ok but was a bit messy. Lanolin is good to use but doesn't last nearly as long as good old fish oil. Just don't park the boat near the bedroom window for a few weeks after applying, the missus was not impressed when she left the windows open on a warm summer night!!
4 hours ago, Marky mark said:That's the way I'd be doing it. First though I'd chuck the wire brush on the grinder and see if the bracket can be saved, hard to tell from a picture but it looks reasonably bad. If keen to try and salvage cut the bolt off, belt the nut out and grind/brush off as much as possible, couple of coats of phosphoric acid/rust converter and cold gal. To be honest (if you can get a welder) better to grind the whole thing off flush (saves having to much around getting the rest of the bold and nut out!), grind to try and find good steel and hopefully weld a new bracket on. Even the rust on the crossmember looks fairly deep, may need to cut off the other bracket as well, grind all the rusty area clean, hit with the converter and cold gal then butt weld a bit of 4mm plate over the top (butt welded so water can't get in between and rust again) of the entire area where both brackets were then weld new brackets to the plate. Done right and heavily col gal painted afterwards should last.
I’v done all the rust conversion and used a good quality, epoxy paint to cover it all. Also done inside the cross members aswell. In the coming year or two I’m going to get new bolt on cross members for the future. I need to remove the bolts to set the keel rollers up properly.
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5 minutes ago, slowjigger said:
That's assuming your bottle is concentrated HCL This will be 37-38% as it can't be dissolved in water much higher than that. You need some serious PPE such as acid resistant gloves, safety glasses and or face shield, and avoid breathing the fumes.
Steering clear from the acid, I’ll just stick with WD40!
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10 hours ago, noelm said:
Yeah I looked at that too, but, it only comes in “small” sizes! Surely in this day and age, with millions of boats around, wider material should be available. According to a carpet guy, it is available in 3m wide, but, it’s 10 times the price, so no one imports it?
Bugger, they never make things nice and easy! Plus being in oz they charge and arm and a leg for it.
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Noelm have thought about Eva foam flooring? It’s easier to clean and bait and stuff doesn’t stick, like it does to carpet.
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Looking forward to seeing a few pic when she’s cleaned up.
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Thanks for all your suggestions guys!
I know the cross member is not in the best shape. I have some what treated the area to get me through a couple more seasons hopefully.
I have sprayed them with wd40 and let it soak In . Tried to undo it with sockets but the nut keeps spinning they are to far gone as Noel suggested.
I have an Idea of drilling a hole ( pilot hole first) through the nut then again at roughy the same size. Then grabbing a cold chisel to spilt the nut in half. After that hopefully jimmying the bolt out with a screw drive. I could also cut the bolt head flush try bashing it out like Noel said but not keen on whacking it to hard in fear cause more damage. It’s not a user friendly design I think ( the bolt and nut combo).
I don’t have blow touch might have to get one , to help. -
Nice looking red, Awesome job!
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Glad you caught a nice feed! Good report, can’t wait for them water temp to heat up!
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Hey guys,
so i’m in the process of setting up the trailer to fit my boat properly and redoing the rollers. I can’t get the bolts out that hold the brackets for the keel rollers. Just wondering if any got any tips on cracking these bloody things out. ( I new bolts and nuts to put in.)
cheers
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On 8/7/2023 at 10:31 PM, zmk1962 said:
Can you zoom out a bit more in the photo and perhaps put up a side shot and a picture of the supplied bowsprit as well. Seems like you already have a decent sized bowsprit with a roller. It may be possible to mount the drum winch supplied bowsprit behind your existing roller without cutting the rails or compromising any functionality. That may work if you have a flat bottom type bowsprit supplied.
Alternatively, if you look at the drum winch bow sprits like the ones from Lonestar or Stressfree, these bowsprits have a bar above the roller to hold the anchor in place and prevent it being flicked into the boat. So you definitely want to install something like that. In your case, it may be easier to use your existing bow roller, and simply fit a bar across the bow rails to prevent the anchor flicking... then install a roller between the bow sprit and the drum to prevent the anchor and chain slapping against the hull .... a roller like this:
Once I see more pictures I may have more ideas.
Just shaving 15mm off each of the rails will weaken them significantly. I don’t think you’d be happy with the outcome.
cheers Z
Hey Z, I ended up going to see a fabricator and they are going to move the rails for so I fit the Savwich bow sprit In properly and reinforce the anchor well for the drum.
It will look much better and give some room when the anchor is retrieved up and not hitting the front of the boat.
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Thanks for help @Fab1 really appreciate it. I said sand, washed and converted it today and apply one coat of epoxy paint. Looks better already! hopefully I can get a couple more seasons out of it. Next week going to spray converter inside the cross members to try on prolong them.
also looking into getting them replaced with potentially bolt on ones.
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5 minutes ago, Fab1 said:
Can you weld or get what I’m going to tell you welded up?
I could get something sorted out, what do you have in mind ?
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XD351 do you remember what sort of water temp you getting out there?
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7 minutes ago, Fab1 said:
As for rust conversion….I used phosphoric acid when I was painting cars.I’m assuming there’s many brands of rust converter around these days.The one I used was called Deoxidine.
Thanks, I’ll check it out!
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16 hours ago, Fab1 said:
Cutting off cross members and welding new ones on will still rust at the welds both inside and outside.
Any time you grind, cut, weld anything galvanised it will rust as you’ve compromised the galvanisation unless you get it re-galvanised again.( You should always remove galvanisation prior to welding and don’t breath in the fumes).
personally I would cut the cross members off and make new galvanised bolt on ones.
Remember rust converter can’t magically put metal back.
I would invest the money you are going to spend on bandaids like cold gal, rust converter on a used/new trailer or replacing the cross members like I mentioned.
Any photos of rusty trailer? Remember the outside will look better than the inside.
Getting new cross members on it s the way to go and then get it either acid bathed or sand blasted to remove all the old gal off and get it hot gal again. But atm I can’t it done so I just was hoping to prolong the trailer for alittle while longer.
bolts ones ones could make easier to place when signs of rust are starting to show why done trailer makers done this?! Or put in c sections inside so it’s much easier to clean and maintain.
Here are the areas of concern Fab1 -
On 7/27/2023 at 9:30 AM, frankS said:
In days gone by when I worked on trailers often I adapted a tool to fit a 4" grinder that had a 18" arm fitted with emery paper. I had to cut away a section of the bottom of the Xmember and grind away the rust on the inside of the Xmember, This would only do 18" from either side of the centre of the Xmember but it was usually enough, when I ground the rust away I would coat the inside of the Xmember with cold gal using a stick with a rag wrapped around it as a brush. Then when all dry I would weld the section I cut out back in place.
This would give the trailer several more years of service.
Never had one come back to me for warranty so it must have worked.
You could do the same using chisels and sticks etc. But to be honest it's probably easier and quicker to just replace the whole Xmember.
I don't like rust converter.
Frank
Cutting the cross members out the 100% way to go and start fresh. But atm I not able to, so I hoping to prolong the trailer for alittle while longer and treat the areas of concern. I was going to spray rust converter inside the cross member using a flexible extension on the spray head to at least try and save it abit, it’s only a band-Aid solution I know but something better then nothing right?! . Thanks for the help frank.
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On 7/26/2023 at 8:27 PM, dunc333 said:
hi drifta the cross members as you are probably aware rust from the inside out so treating the outside is like putting a bandaid over the .problem. i usually replace cross member or build a 60mm by 10mm by 1000mm strengher with ubolts to give piece of mind before renewing trailer or cross member replacement to get by.Any new gal trailer i have i turn upside down and fill up with sump oil and then block drain holes and then will not rust from the inside out cheers dunc .333.
Hey dunc333 , yep Unfortunately when it’s in the cross member it’s impossible to get out. They don’t make them salt water friendly. Thats not a bad idea to strengthen it for the time being until I can get properly fixed. I have heard of the sump oil trick and will be doing it any new trailers down the track or once this one get a redo. Thanks for your help!
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On 7/26/2023 at 7:33 PM, noelm said:
Near impossible to clean rust off a trailer, cold gal is near useless if it’s going in the water, it’s barely OK on things just near the water, sorry to say…..
I’m just trying to prolong the trailer for alittle while longer….once the rust starts it almost game over.
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On 7/26/2023 at 7:22 PM, slowjigger said:
Cold gal is meant to go onto bare metal. If you are going to use rust converter then I would use a good quality paint, oil based or epoxy.
Oh ok I wasn’t sure, thanks for the help!
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Hey guys, Doing some yearly maintenance on the boat trailer. I have a couple cross members ( the usual suspects) starting to rust.
I have a couple questions on repairing with rust converter.
What rust converter do people recommend?
Can you cold gal over it once converted?
And is there a hack to getting the rust converter into The cross member via the gal hole at the bottom of the cross member?
Any help would be appreciated cheers. -
17 hours ago, XD351 said:
Nice fish Pickles !
You definitely did better up river than I did down river on Saturday! You didn’t happen to notice the water temperature on your sounder did you? I’m curious to know if it is better than the 15-16 deg I found in broken bay . I had trouble losing a prawn and found down there the half pillie was the bait of the day .I had the same problem 2 Saturday’s ago XD351, I couldn’t turn a reel and had the same water temps.
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Great report and read XD, enjoyed it. Some really helpful tips in there also.
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Boat Bimini material
in Boating
Posted
Hey guys
Looking at getting a new Bimini made up and not sure which material to go with, canvas or this vinyl stuff.
Wondering if anyone has had experience with these materials and what the pro’s and con’s of having them on their boat? Cheers.