Evan Spary

$20 + GST for spinning reels $30 + GST for overheads This includes total stripdown and regrease but does not include any parts needed.

Certates internally are a fairly simple design. The complex and dangerous part for DIY guys is how the parts are handled. Drop a gear, scratch the main shaft etc and you would be looking at a pricey fix. We can not force people to have these reels serviced by us we only recommend it. There are special greases used, certain quantities of grease used, special tools etc. The warranty issue comes into it as well. For example you have a knocking or grinding noise. If you have opened the reel yourself there is no way we can tell if the fault caused by you or the factory. Due to the expensive nature of the reel they naturally have expensive parts. Having us service the reel for you assures you peace of mind. If our mechanic drops the main gear or uses to much grease its on our heads to fix it. Super Metal as i understand it doesn't have as much magnesium in it as Air Metal. Hence slightly heavier. Although those two reels designs are completely different as well. Sorry mate i have absolutely no idea what its exact components are and i would imagine they are quite a trade secret as well. Kix has a graphite, not plastic, rotor instead of super metal. Essentially the basic design is completey different. Certates are pretty unique in their design. I would say that the Kix 'borrows' a lot of the design features from the Certates. Also alot of the materials are different, graphite and plastic in certain places instead of super metal. Less bearings, the gears are made of a different material as well. Handle design is different, doesn't quite have the exact Engine Plate design of the Certate. All of this equates to a similar design of reel in a cheaper price point. Evan

Saltwater and Magnesium definately do not mix, well they do sort of, but the end result is quite catostrophic for the reel. The Luvias, Airity and Fuego all have a magnesium alloy body but the coating on it allows for use in saltwater. We also produce a couple of reels that definatley can NOT be used in saltwater such as the Team Daiwa Z 103H and Liberto Pixy. The reason why they use magnesium in reels is for weight reduction. Magnesium alloy's are incredibly light yet very strong and fairly cheap to produce when campared to other light weight alloy's that use titanium. Most of the top end reels produced by Daiwa that use magnesium are originally designed for the Japanese domestic and American bass markets. Where it is all freshwater fishing. Hence they can get away with using more magenesium in the reels to reduce weight and not have to worry about corrosion issues. Us Aussies love this top end gear and try and apply it to our market which is predominately salt water. Hence the extra coating protection we offer on some models. Don't forget that even reels with a coating if they are not cared for properly, will corrode. Aluminum based frames will also suffer if your gear is not looked after. Evan

Hopefully around the 3rd week of June. Sorry, i know it keeps getting later but they will be worth the wait. Evan

Keep an eye out on the site over the next few months were we will put up 'news' bubbles on HL-Z's, Battlers and other limited release products. Evan

G'Day Andrew We hope to eventually, the other products like Gekkabijins, 200BB, lures etc are what we refer to as non catalogue items. Items which are a limited release in Australia and may not always be readily available. Evan

Hello All Daiwa Australia has now got its own website up and running. www.daiwafishing.com.au Evan

Daiwa through the IZE factory have a whole bunch of different custom knobs available for the top end reels. There is even a cork grip option where you can have a small photo inserted into it!!! There is available different knob options for Certates in Australia. 'T' Shaped knob, a power knob and coming soon a aluminum power knob very similar to the one off the Saltiga Z6500 Expedition. With all top end Daiwa reels that have bearings in the handles eg Certates, TD-Z's there handle knobs will generally interchange. For example a cork handle knob of a TD Ignis will fit a Certate. Even some of the baitcaster knobs will interchange with spinning reels. Evan

Joe I PM you the prices a while ago. I will resend for you. Evan

G'Day Joe We are bringing in couple of extra cans. They will be in the 2kg size. Its still alot of grease, on average around 500 reel services per can. Retail will be around $80 - $90 per can and like our spares available to the general public. Evan

G'Day Pogo I havent had any personal experience with it but it certainly looks good. I have been meaning to get some to try it out but havent come across any yet in my travels. As soon as i have tried some i will let you know. Evan

G'Day Jeff If its similar to Inox your on a winner. In sealed (metal ring enclosing the face of the bearing) bearings for reels there are generally 2 types. Oil spec bearings and grease spec bearings. An oil spec bearing comes from the manufacture filled with oil. It allows for an extremely free spinning bearing, excellent for casting applications. The two or three bearings on Daiwa casting overheads that support the spool are generally oil spec. The only down side to these bearings is that they are not as corrisive resistant as grease spec bearings. Grease spec as their name suggests are bearings packed with grease. Offering a higher level of protection but it slows the spinning of the bearing. All open bearings (you can see the little balls) are grease spec. If the rotor bearing is open faced pack it with a light grease. If it is sealed there is generally no chance of getting a helpful quantity of grease in. I will generally put a few drops of oil on them and let it soak in. Evan

Joe, PM me the exact reel models. Should be something like JS2550 or JX3550 etc.. Most of those parts are still available, if not, in drags we can usually find something that will fit.

I will find out if we can do it and let you know. Evan

G'DayJeff I will break my answer down into point form to respond to each of your questions. 1) Probably the most debated topic in regards to servicing. Everyone has their own personal preferences. My own preference is to use a thin grease. Not as corosive protectant as the thicker varieties but gives you much more 'smooth' feel. At Daiwa we use reel grease DSG101. A light thin grease suitable for all reel types (except Certates they have their own special grease). I dont know if DSG101 is a standard grease denomination, best check with a grease specialist, do they even exist??? It comes in a 4kg can from our mother company and i have never seen a grease exactly the same as it. Unfortunately it is not for sale to the public unless your willing to take a 4kg can of it!!! The next best thing is the Daiwa greaser's very similar viscosity to DSG101 but you need to thin it out with reel oil a bit to be exactly the same. Available for purchase through your retailers. Another good one is that really thick blue marine bearing grease from Castrol. Thin that stuff out by mixing in some reel oil and you have a very versatile grease. 2) Lanox is that stick like thing, isn't it??? Kinda looks like a UHU glue stick but is grease. Should be fine Jeff, not as penatrative as oil but should give you a pretty good protective coat. I wouldnt worry about your line too much, the amount of oil needed on a line roller is pretty small and the line will wear out from general fishing before the oil affects it. 3) I prefer to get the salt off with fresh water first (always a light spray). Then every couple of uses hit it with WD40 or Inox. See previous post for more info. Hope this helps. Evan

G'Day Joe Good news for you. The 'Devel' will be available early May. I have seen and fished with one of these before and they more than lived up to my expectations. Evan

G'Day Joe Battler Limited's are coming, only one model at this stage, the 'Devel'. Still not sure when they are coming though. Will have a better answer for you tomorrow. Evan

I will give you a run down on what i do to my reels and it may shock you all to know that i own and use Abu, shimano and penn reels and of course Daiwa. After EVERY (well most of the time) fishing session i give my reels a rinse with the hose on a LIGHT setting. Dont wont to force any crap in. Then most important, wipe the reel off with a clean rag. This stops water sitting on the surface of the reel and then working its way in while you have left it to dry. I hit my reels every couple of sessions with Inox. Stick the reel on a table and spray away this one you dont have to wipe off let it sit for a couple of hours to soak in. Get a Daiwa oiler (shameless, shameless plug) or similar needle nose oiling device and oil your handle and line roller bearing every now and then. Depending on use i will generally service (total strip down and clean) my reels every six months or so, my spin stuff more frequently cause i use them the most. Whether i think they need it or not, i still do them. Preventative maintenance is always the best.

Hello Bluecod An excellent question. Guys in the outboard service industry have offered the exact same advice for years. If you outboard goes swimming it 's best to leave it where it is, if possible, then get it to a service depot ASAP. If not drop it in a drum of freshwater till its pulled apart. Now before anyone jumps down my throat for contradicting myself (read earlier post) this isn't always the most practical solution or even possible in some situations. It generally definately isnt the most cost effective solution. I cant imagine any courier company willing to transport buckets full of freshwater to our offices!!!. With bearings in reels, once it is dry, the damage is done I'm afraid. Best advice i can offer is not to drop your reel!!!!!! But, seriously, if it happens and it happens to all of us at some stage about the only thing you can feasbly do is to try and get some oil into the bearings ASAP. Evan

Andrew There is a kit available to ''lengthen'' the drag curve so to speak. It involves adding or removing spring washers and a new cam. Daiwa lever drags all work on the same principal of ''pulling'' a shaft through the center of the spool. This intern either forces a single or twin disc drag to make contact with a metal plate. The amount of pressure applied is governed by the cam and spring washers. The steep drag curve is not considered a fault with the reel, i think you may be exagerating a little when you say a few millimeters beyond strike. I have never come across one with such a steep curve. I have seen and used quite a few of these reels and in my personal experience never been bothered by a steep drag curve. Generally its set and forget with drag systems while chasing fin or marlin. If you wish your reel to be done PM me and i can let you know all the details. Evan

Gentlemen When I offered my advice, I did not mean I would become a complaints hotline. There are proper measures already in place for warranty issues and that begins with returning the reel to the retailer it was purchased from. The retailer then contacts the wholesaler and the process begins from there. Alternatively you can return the reel direct to Daiwa yourself, just include proof of purchase. With Daiwa reels there is a general 12 month warranty from time of purchase if you purchased one of our reels covered by a 5 year warranty(you get a card in the box) you naturally get a 5 year warranty. We treat all warranty issues as individual cases and as such their is a level of privacy involved in each. I will not discuss individual cases on a public forum.

Hello All, I stand by what i say in my earlier post in offering advice or information on products or services relating to Daiwa. If you have questions relating to Daiwa products feel free to post them on the site and i will try to answer them as soon as possible. This will be done mostly in my own time so please understand that i may not be able to get to them straight away but anything marked to my attention i will try and answer as soon as possible. Remember too that we have some excellent fishing tackle retailers out there and those guys are always more than happy to help. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words and talking about a reel or rod just isnt quite the same as seeing one in the flesh. Evan

Andrew This matter should best be dealt with ''offline''. I am not trying to silence a complaint on behalf of my company, nor do i personally believe in anyone not being able to express their opinions. I believe every complaint should be personally attented too. You obviously are very frustrated by your experience with Daiwa. Our sales rep will try to contact you personally through the store where you purchased the reel. As you can see by the time, it unfortunately will not be done until tommorrow.

Good Morning All, Please let me introduce myself, my name is Evan Spary and I work for Daiwa Australia. My duties here include after sales service, reels repairs and spare parts. We have been keeping an eye on the posts here in this site and there seems to be alot of misinformation in regards to repairs getting around. I will try and give a brief overview on repairs and try to hopefully clear the air. Generally, reel servicing at Daiwa takes around 2 weeks. This does not include shipping to and from our Sydney warehouse. This time frame has peak periods and at such times, repairs can take up to 3-4 weeks. These peak times generally occur around major holidays Christmas and Easter etc.. When obviously more people are fishing and tackle stores are too busy with general business to cope with repairs themselves. Servicing to high end reels such as Certates, Saltigas and Airity's etc is a pretty in depth process. These reels are at the fore front of reel technology and require exceptional care to be taken when servicing. Expensive reels also carry expensive parts. The easiest way to think of it would be to compare servicing your Ferrari to getting your Barina serviced. There also seems to be alot of confusion involving time frames for damage that occurs after salt water intrusion. The time that it has been submerged is the single most important factor. It was simply dropped in and recovered immeditaley you could probably get away with a just a rinse off in freshwater. Though to be safe I would recomend a strip down and clean. Submerged for time frames greater than say a minute (it doesnt take very long for water to find the gaps) the damage can be quite extensive. Any longer, say around half an hour, and you would be looking at some pretty terminal damage. Factor sand into this equation and your reel will not be in a good way at all. Bearings especially suffer from saltwater intrusion the most. Daiwa's CRBB's while being more saltwater resistant and shielded as well, are not water proof. I could be wrong but I do not believe any reel on the market has 'water proof' bearings. To do this is would involve placing a rubber seal on the bearing which would slow its performance quite condsiderably. In effect making a plastic bush more suitable than a bearing. This is a very brief overview of repairs and I can not impart all the 'tricks of the trade' in a few paragraphs. I will try to keep up to date with the posts here on the website and answer any questions you guys have regarding Daiwa products or services. Please understand that I may not be able to answer all questions immediately but I will try to get to all of them eventually. Remeber your retailer should be your first point of call in regards to new products etc.. Regards Evan Spary