DerekD

Hi Sharknett. The PFD brand is Ultra and the model is Sport Fish suggested by the kayak shop at the time. Have a look at the attached photos. On the back lower section where the straps pass through there is no foam thus reducing the profile and making it a comfortable fit against the seat. The upper section has foam. I admit that it is not exactly high visibility yellow any more but it has seen a lot of hours on the water. I had a quick internet search and there is at least one shop in Sydney which sells them. You should be able to track down more information. Regards, Derek

Hi All, Over the years I've seen a few threads come up from people looking at getting their first (fishing) kayak. A lot of the information the Fishraiders will provide often covers familiar ground. This post is an introduction to kayak fishing 101. I'm not sure at what point someone becomes an expert at something so please filter through the following information and make your own judgement. On a side note I've spent a lot of my life on or around the water and mucking around on various vessels. I've owned my Hobie Revolution 13 since late 2010 and have probably done over 1,000km on it on most of Sydney's major waterways at some stage. Just some things to think about. A lot of information (I've plenty more too) but use it as a check list: Kayak: Suitable load rating (I’m 108kg plus battery, fishfinder, fishing gear, water) Pedal or Paddle? Part of the philosophy behind the pedal kayaks is the legs are used to being used for long distances (e.g. walking or running daily) and they are a stronger muscle group than the arms. I have a Hobie (mirage drive). Another pedal system I have heard of is the Slayer. A mate that had both said the Hobie felt more efficient but the Slayer with its propeller system could be operated in reverse and hold position more easily. The newer Hobies have a reversible drive system and the seats are more comfortable. A major advantage of a pedal drive system is that your hands a free for fishing, especially when you have hooked that big one and are trying to guide it away from structure. The obvious disadvantage is that the pedal drives often cost significantly more than the paddle kayaks. You also need to be a bit more careful when in shallow water over structure. The seat - is it comfortable? Does it give support where needed. Are you going to lose blood to the backside and just fall over the side of the kayak when you get off after an awesome 8 hour session out on the water because your legs no longer respond (only slightly exaggerating there). Hobie had an inflatable cushion for their older seats which I couldn't get used to but my Hobie owning friends wouldn't do without. Replacement seats - far less likely to come up but I've at least four mates who needed to get a replacement seat for one reason or another. My way of stretching during long sessions is to put both my arms down on the sides of the kayak and lift my backside up and stretch. Tracks in a straight line when paddling (mine doesn’t so I make rudder adjustments). Some come with a rudder so tracking is not a problem. You have to remember to lift it up when going over obstacles or getting it up on a jetty. Longer is faster but harder to store Freeboard (with higher sides you are less likely to get wet but it is more affected by wind) How are you or where are you going to store it. I bought a hoist from Ebay and hung it from the roof in my garage. My friends pay $300 per year to store theirs near the water. Easy to carry to water or has wheels (mine is 30kg but I can lift it). Walk 100m with it over your head and you will know it. At least 2 rod holders (I needed 3 – bream plus snapper rods with the third being a heavy rod or fly rod). Ideally put extensions in to get reels clear of water – you can make these from PVC. Hobie has off the shelf rod holder extensions. I personally don't like any rod holders in front of me as sometimes I have to move the rod tip over the bow of the kayak when fighting a fish. It can also get in the way of my casting. I created a bracket to put a third rod holder behind my seat. Ease of installing accessories (one mate bought a kayak with no practical access to internal storage) Decent paddle so you don’t snap it when pushing it hard Storage hatches for cases (e.g. tackle), water and a dry bag for keys, money, phone Colour: I chose blue as it is visible on the water for other boats and my safety . I don’t think the fish care about the colour. Yellow stands out too and I stayed away from red as red cars fade faster in the sun and I thought it might be a similar long term concern with a kayak. Unless you plan to do some undercover work then personally I think a camo pattern is a bad idea. Budget – my pedal drive Hobie was $2,300 back in 2010 and worth it but if you look around you can find new paddle kayaks for around $350. These get you out there. A few years down the track if you love it then you could probably still sell it for about $200 and by then you will know exactly what you want and why. I hear questions about an electric motor - I've never tried one. Part of my reason for getting a kayak was that I could combine fishing with exercise. I already owned a boat I could use to get around under power. If you have your heart set on it then some things to think about besides the cost. Most kayaks are not set up for them (no mounting brackets or storage well for the battery). Which model electric drive (size, power, weight). How to mount it. Battery size (weight and dimensions) and capacity (how long you can run your electric motor). Battery charger. How to carry it all - my fishfinder battery is heavy enough and that has far lighter duties than driving a motor. Other stuff: Transport – how are you going to get it around? I have Thule roof racks and a cradle accessory which allows me to get a second kayak on the roof (I drive a hatchback). Soft roof racks could damage paint over time. There are some accessories (such as side bars) which you can clip on to roof racks which will make it easier to lift the kayak on to the roof for those who are a little less physically able. Not cheap but if they save your back they are worth it. Some people have made their own so you should be able to find out their solution with a bit of research. Some people have customised trailers to suit their kayaks. Foam or cradles on racks: If you strap a kayak down directly to the roof racks you are likely to get a dent in your kayak. Clark rubber insulation foam split and wrapped over bars is one way of preventing point loading. Cradles are another. Straps: Long enough to go under rack over kayak under rack again and back over kayak again, tightened off with the excess tied off. Mine are Thule 4m straps but as an idea of what you should be looking at I suggest these at Bunnings for $23: https://www.bunnings.com.au/gripwell-28mm-x-4-5m-300kg-cambuckle-tie-down-with-pvc-cam-cover-2-pack_p4310641. I'm not a fan of ratchet straps for the roof racks as they are cumbersome, you need good fastening points and due to their shape they can dent your kayak. Life jacket: A higher rating is often required for offshore than inshore. If you get an inflatable lifejacket you can also use it for rock fishing but it must be inspected (can do by yourself) annually. I have an inflatable jacket but I usually use foam filled jacket specifically designed (high back to clear seat plus plenty of pockets) for use on the kayak. If kayak shop doesn’t have them then look at Whitworths or other boating shops for inflatable jackets. Double check the life jacket rating (e.g. 50S, 100, 150) required for kayaks on the RMS site for inshore and offshore before purchasing. The inflatable life jacket is more compact and generally cooler but the reason I use a foam jacket are twofold - firstly it is yellow which helps with on the water visibility. Secondly, I reasoned if I came off a kayak it was for something beyond my control like being hit by a boat - if as a result you are unconscious then it is a bit hard to operate an inflating jacket. The foam one is always operational but my inflatable life jacket has a higher rating. Spares: Are there critical spares for your kayak? On my Hobie drive the cable locknut came off - I now keep some spare ones and the spanner in an easy reach location. I have spare rudder pins inside the hatches and spare cables inside my kayak bag (gets left in the car). Trying to get spares in a rush on a weekend will always be a pain. In my case it might take me some time to get back to the car but once there I can be back on the water relatively soon. Even with the Hobie drive I always take the paddle with me too. One time I had to get back from Barrenjoey head to our launch point when the drive failed. If my friends had to tow me they would not have been happy. Straps under bars, over kayak, under the bars on the other side and then back again. Pulling down on the straps pulls the cambuckles flush against the hull. You can just see the black foam pads over my roof rack bars. I tie off the excess strap for added peace of mind (little chance of both knot and buckle to slip) and to stop the annoying flap of strap against hull when driving. Your first time out: Read through (or skim through the applicable parts) the boating rules for your state to at least know your rights and obligations on the water. You don’t have to take the exam. Safety is a priority. Ideally head out with someone who has been doing it for a while and knows what they are on about (not just thinks they do). Shortcut to current RMS (Roads and Maritime Services) NSW safety guidelines for kayaks and canoes: https://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/maritime/safety-rules/other-boating/canoes-and-kayaks.html The RMS have also put together a Paddle Smart, Paddle safe page including safety advice and a map specifically for heading out on Sydney Harbour: https://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/maritime/safety-rules/campaigns/paddle-smart.html Think about the gear you are going to take with you. What happens if it drops in the water or you roll the kayak (unlikely)? Travel light until you know your limitations. Some people like leashes for their gear. I find these get in my way. If the gear does go in on a leash and you get it back then ideally get the reel in to service as soon as possible to minimise long term damage and the cost of replacement parts. Have a plan. Where will you be using it? I've worked out plenty of launch locations over the years for the main waterways in Sydney by checking out the street directories, GoogleEarth, asking people or just having a look. What boat traffic is expected? Check the weather - I've had mates pushed ashore in really strong winds and they were not Newbies. On that day it could have ended up far worse, they came out of it safely but kayak bottoms were badly scratched up by oysters. Pace yourself. Getting along at 50% - 70% of what you can do will allow you to cover a lot of ground without getting exhausted. You don't need to impress anyone with how fast you get somewhere. Any distance out will be the same distance back. Wind and tide can work for or against you and whether it helps or hinders you can change throughout the course of the day. Unlike a motorcycle keep your body vertical. Centre of mass will ensure the kayak moves back to an even keel. Worst waves are quartering (say at a 45° angle) from behind which results in a corkscrew type movement. If I have a choice I will try and hit the waves straight on or sideways as it allows the wave to gently lift me up and lower me down the backside. If the waves or wake start to break you will probably get wet. Practice on wakes and waves till you get comfortable. I head out frequently on Sydney harbour. There are often waves (or wakes from big boats). Sometimes I get wet. In my case the scuppers don’t work – for someone lighter they might. I keep a sponge on board to empty out the water around my backside. Keep a good look-out at all times. To me at least Sydney Harbour has a rhythm - the ferries follow certain routes at certain times. The sailing races happen about 1pm on a Saturday (depends on the sailing club). You will learn this by watching what happens around you. Understanding an area is a great confidence builder. Stay within your comfort zone where possible. Follow the shoreline (say 50m to 100m out) where possible (but give shore based anglers plenty of room) to ensure sufficient clearance between you and other harbour users. At some stage when it is a nice day and you have no gear on board flip your kayak under controlled conditions (e.g. near a beach). Can you get back on board and under way? Can you empty out the water? Clothing: You will have sunlight hitting you from above and from the reflection off the water. I use quick dry long pants and a long sleeved top. Consider a legionnaires’ cap or cap and buff. It can get hot out there so bring water. I also keep some money with me as there are a few vendors on the water from whom you can buy a coffee or other beverage. Bathroom breaks – if it gets too uncomfortable holding it in (some of my sessions are over 8 hours) I will sometimes head for the nearest secluded beach. Other people use different methods. Get to know which beaches have public toilets available for use. If you get desperate you could also walk into a waterside hotel or club and buy something with that emergency money you keep in the dry bag and conveniently use their facilities at the same time. There are restricted areas in Sydney Harbour such as the naval bases (Garden Island, Clifton Gardens and Balmoral). Keep outside the yellow marker buoys. The security guards get a little pissed off if you move into the restricted waters. They generally only yell at vessels inside this area but sometimes you will see an authority vessel come to request you to move on. You should not stop under the harbour bridge (which is a killer as there are often some very good schools of fish there) but make your way smartly through. Think about a bright orange flag for extra visibility. I don't and have had the same person have a go at me at least twice over the years for not being more visible on the water. Under maritime guidelines "The skipper must be in a good lookout position at all times to watch and listen carefully...". If he can't see a 4m plus bright blue kayak with 6 foot me in a bright yellow vest and bright blue cap I'm not sure what a 300mm x 300mm orange flag will do and a trip to Spec savers is in order. Having said that being right won't help me if I get run over. While I have been out on the water just after daybreak quite a few times you won't find me on the kayak between sunset and sunrise. If you do plan to head out at night then consider the following lifted straight from the RMS: "Paddle during daylight hours or, if paddling in restricted visibility or between sunset and sunrise, exhibit two all round continuous or flashing white lights, one attached to the canoe or kayak at or near the forward end and the other one attached at or near the aft end. The light is to be visible in clear conditions from a distance of one kilometre and may be masked so as not to interfere with the vision of the occupants, provided at least one light is visible from any direction". Storage: As mentioned, I have friends that store their kayaks by the water. $100 to $300 a year adds up over time so I went a different way. Some people will use cradles from the walls but I have a high garage with concrete ceiling so can store my kayak from the roof and above the car. Looking around I found a 60kg rated block and pulley system. There are multiple versions out there and some seem to be overly positive on the weight rating. Some key words to help you in your Google or Ebay search: Kayak / Hoist / Bike / Lift / Pulley / System / Garage / Ceiling / Storage / Rack / Capacity / 60KG. I got rid of the cheap Dynabolts which came with it and bought some genuine Dynabolts of similar size. The slings will be longer than you require so I shortened them by using an overhand loop knot to create a second hook point. Note: Depending on how far apart the straps are, the shape of the kayak, how smooth it is the straps will want to slide off towards the ends of the kayak. I put two lines (I like symmetry) from one strap to the other of the same length as the spacing between the roof pulleys. You can do it with one line. If you are really unlucky and you let go of the rope for the pulleys it can end up at the pulley block. With some spare line I tied a 1m tail on to it so I could always reach the tail rope. Put some thought into where exactly you are hanging it. If the power to the lights is concealed in the ceiling work out beforehand where it is likely to run (I expect square to the walls of the room). I really don't want to hear that one of the Fishraiders (or anyone for that matter) had an accident installing a hoist. As you are likely drilling into the roof with a hammer drill safety glasses and earplugs are important (of course you have those already). When assembling the blocks both ends of the rope finish up going through a hole in the bottom of the pulley block at which point you need a stopper knot. For security I used a compact loop knot and made sure that the fixing shaft in the pulley block passed through this loop knot (you will see what I mean when you install it). Will you want to put in a second or third system in the future? Does the body of the kayak block out the light? Where will it land when you lower it? Does it clear the garage door (I had to raise the kayak by shortening the straps to get the necessary clearance)? Think about the spacing of the pulleys and where you will put the hook to tie off the extra line when it is in the raised position (the friction lock holds it in place really well but the tie off is a secondary safety measure). BTW you will likely have a deep sense of satisfaction when you have installed it and the kayak is hanging from the ceiling. When you pull it up for the first time see how the friction lock works and then try and lower it. I installed one for my neighbour but he isn't mechanically inclined and he damaged the lines a bit before he decided to ask me for a second demonstration - it doesn't need to be forced. You pull down on both lines to ease off the friction lock and while holding tight on one of the lines you can allow the other to feed out. Alternate pressure between lines to get the kayak to see-saw downwards. I land my kayak on foam pads. Mine have been is service for about 9 years and still work but keep an eye on the condition of the rope at any rub points. Fishfinder: I own a 2010 Hobie Revolution 13 and have installed a Humminbird on it years ago. I helped another two friends install fishfinders on their kayaks (another Revo and an Outback) so I have had some experience. At the time Hobies did not come with a transducer pocket. I didn’t want to damage the hull of my kayak so after some research I put together a through the hull arrangement in front of the drive well. The bad thing with that Humminbird unit is that the connections are permanently connected to the mounting bracket so I had to work out how to stow that when not in use. I use the rear hatch for the battery compartment and with a 7.2AH SLA 12V battery I can get a comfortable 10 hours plus use. A problem with the through the hull design is that the temperature sensor in the transducer will give false readings. If you get bubbles in the fastening medium you will also run the risk of getting false signals. The advantage with the through the hull design is that I won't knock off the transducer through bumps from submerged objects or poor handling. Working on the basis that I didn't want to drill any holes in my Hobie this was the shopping list I came up with when installing my Fishfinder. Anything you already have you should just tick off. I used the mast hole for a Ram ball on which my Fishfinder sits. I had to put a second ball on my mast pole for out of use storage. I've included where I got some of the equipment as I believe that it shouldn't be a conflict of interest with the site sponsors. 1x Fishfinder 1x Ram Fishfinder Mounting kit to suit mounting bracket holes - Hobie agent at Mona Vale should have these. I went to Whitworths for the shorter fastening bolts and domed nuts. 1x Ram ball mast mount to match mounting kit. I think it will be the smaller 25mm ball – Hobie agent 1x tube of Goop (some people use silicone) – Hobie agent 1x foam transducer pocket (Polyethylene foam should be the stuff) – Hobie agent or electronics packaging 1x Battery holder for rear hatch (Hobie now do fit for purpose but I prefer my option as it is sealed from water) – Hobie agent 1x U-bolt Ram ball (for storing mounting kit in kayak when not in use) – agent for Ram located in North Sydney 1x fuse holder and rated fuse (see fishfinder manual) – Jay car 1x extension power cables to reach battery – Jay car 1x Heat shrink tube to protect joins of Fishfinder power cable to extension power cable Some cable ties for cleaning up loose cables Some time to install it all. Battery - I use a 12V 7.2AH/20HR non-spillable sealed rechargeable battery - fits in the Hobie tub perfectly and gives me roughly 10-12 hours use before my low battery level alarm kicks in (think I set it at 11.8 volts). Whitworths or Jaycar Battery charger - preferably a smart one so I can clip it on when I get home and not stress about forgetting to unplug it. I placed the transducer between the mast pole and the mirage well. I didn't want it behind the well as I didn't want to disturb the signal with water coming off the drive fins. I didn't scuff the kayak surface but I did clean it as best I could. I made a pool with the foam and locked it in place with Goop. I then warmed up the remaining Goop and carefully poured it into the pocket and then worked the transducer into place trying to rock out any air bubbles. In my case the rear hatch is not easily accessible when on the water so I used it for battery storage instead. Water will get in the kayak so make sure any joins have been soldered and sealed in heatshrink. Don't forget the fuse. I wouldn't want a 12V battery shorting out. I used a Hobie gear bucket and trimmed out some tabs to make room for the battery. Cables coming up underneath the hatch. The mounting bracket is in its operational position. I just have to clip the head unit in place. Mounting bracket in its stored position. BTW my Marine Goop dried reasonable hard (still has some flex) and I have it mounted in front of the mast pole so I don't think I get a lot of flex in that part of the hull. It has been in place for about 6 years. Fishfinder in operational position on Sydney harbour. I use the same head unit on both my kayak and boat and there seems to be very little resolution loss (if any) with the through the hull set-up. Hope the above information is of help to others starting out. For the practical side of fishing from a kayak there is a part 2 to this article which can be found at: Regards, Derek

Hi Will, MattyMattMatt was in the same place as you are. Since he started that thread (pasted above) he has been working on the soft plastics, learned to catch squid, put out big baits, caught his first jewfish (mulloway). Last time we talked he was still chasing his first king. Currently your questions are a little too general. Part of your learning curve will be targeting specific species and then also really looking at and then understanding your fishing environment. I've been fortunate enough to meet a few people in the fishing industry who are very good at what they do and most of those people are really switched on and can mix and switch it up. Part of the advice to MMM was find a mentor (or even better more than one). Listen to what they say but learn the why behind what they do. Filter through the advice to find out what works for you. Do not take what people tell you as set in stone as they are probably still growing and refining their techniques too. Soft plastics and flathead is an excellent place to start and ideally go with someone who fishes them successfully. Being shore based is not necessarily a limitation. My biggest fish to date was a 104cm jewie in middle harbour on a freshly caught squid. Regards, Derek

Looks like the rod on the floor copped a beating too.

Came across this one a while back on YouTube while looking for stick bait action. Not mine but so worth it to see the flying fish and the scenery in Cape York,

Your spool capacity of your 4000 sized Shimano reel is about 270m -300 of 15lb depending on which braid you use. You have only 160m of braid. To get the best casting distance out of line you do not want to under fill (less distance) or over fill the spool (bird nests). The way most of us get around this is start with mono and then finish with braid up to the perfect level. I do this on all my 1000-2500 outfits. Setting up the first time is a pain but once set up whenever I need to replace the braid I rip it off till I have reached the mono backing and then just put a new spool of 150m of braid (same brand and class as previous) back on the reel. On my 4000 reels I run 1m of mono to ensure good bite to the spool and then braid the rest of the way. I'm pedantic enough that to set up the smaller spools I put the braid on first, then the mono to the optimum spool depth and then end for end the whole line. Easier when you have two reels of the same model.

For most of your fishing I think 160m will be enough. I doubt I've ever seen more than 100m off my Stradic 4000. I went the full spool (270 -300m) of braid on a "what if" basis and I can afford it. When the time comes your challenge will be ripping off enough of the mono backing so that the spool fills properly to the top with the braid. Before you spool it up grab the spool of braid and a spool of leader and take the time to practice your joiner knots. Test them out properly - even take a couple to breaking point to get a feel for it. Once you are confident you have mastered the joiner knots then you can look at replacing a lot of your mono with braid.

Hi Will, With the rod and reel you have invested in I think it is worth getting into braid a little down the track. Once you have learned to fish braid and the little tricks then it is hard to go back. Sensitivity is awesome. Improved casting distance. Going to state the obvious - the experience comes with trying things. Don't let that put you off. Plenty of information out there. The financial thing is another matter. I learned the double uni knot from a knot book which came with Berkley fireline. Used it happily for over a decade. Also learned the Surgeon's joiner knot (very easy). Found out later on that doubling the braid in the double uni made the knot even stronger. These days I mostly use the FG knot but it took a while for me to make the jump. I'd seen plenty of videos on tying the FG knot but I wasn't happy with most due to the hassle of keeping tension in the line and line wastage. One of the Fishraiders posted the following video but I use a different finish than the half hitches shown and you will see that in the second link: Now the finish of the knot can be found at a little after five minutes on this link: I can manage to do it with the really fine lines but that has taken a bit of practice. With 10lb braid or heavier it comes up a treat. Generally my leaders are 50% to 100% more than my main line. Regards, Derek

I got involved with Fluorocarbon lines when I started fishing braid over a decade ago. One of the selling points was that it had a spectrum index similar to water which made it difficult for fish to spot it. Years ago I read an article which came as a result from some testing in the tuna fishing industry. The long liners alternated their droppers between fluorocarbon and Monofiliment for the whole long line. About 90% of the tuna hooked up when they did the test were on the Fluorocarbon. I wish I could find the article again. Personally, in the light leaders (12lb and under) I use Nitlon because it reasonably supple and hasn't really let me down. Years ago I switched back from Fluoro to Mono in the 20lb and above leaders because I didn't like the stiffness of some of the leaders I was using. @Volitan recent testing is another reason for me to stick with the monos for some aspects of my fishing - thanks for sharing your data. One of the other reasons I still use the fluoro is that it sinks better (unweighted) than mono so it can be handy for my fly leaders.

An excellent idea. Thank you.

Hi @savit, Just a follow up regarding the handles for the rod cases. I took your advice and found the 8mm diameter Bunnings shock cord ($10). Then I found some hose with an ID of 10mm (2m = $11). The first attempt was with lashing twine. While I think in the long term it would have been effective it was a pain to get the needle and thread through the rubber. I gave up after 5 passes and some whipping. This is take two which I have been testing for several weeks. There have been some learnings. The hose makes a pretty comfortable grip. Since it comes coiled it has a natural curve when it goes on the case. The cable ties have worked pretty well so far with no obvious signs of slippage. The downside is that there are some sharp points where I have trimmed the cable ties back. I'm thinking of filing them back a little further to take away the edge and then put a dollop of melt glue or silicone to give them a smooth profile. Thank you all for your suggestions. Derek

I swung past my local tackle store - I own one AAS-270H DPSM 7ft 2 piece Spin 14 - 30lb 10 - 50g now. It would only be a sickness if I couldn't afford it and was taking food off the table from the kids that I don't actually have. Kind of like the pokies but with a feel good win every time I walk out of the store.

How about a budget too. Doesn't need to be stupid expensive but an extra $50 here and there can make a nice jump up in the gear. Do you want to muscle them or will you learn to play them? I like to play them and the gear can be a lot lighter. I like catching small kings on 2-4kg bream gear. @JonD has been picking some awesome kings on pretty light gear too - have a look at some of his posts.

I assume one of the freshwater fish you will be chasing is bass. The following is a shopping list based on what I use. Feel free to mix and match it up as you go along. Most of the stuff will be interchangeable between salt and fresh water. Celta spinner - 2 per pack for about $10. Get the size 3 (5gm) for the extra casting distance. Cast out and wind it back as slowly as you can without snagging up. My best session with one of these was 21 bass in 1 hour. The sugapen in 70 - about $23. Suggest silver bait fish and a semi-translucent. Has to be worked with a sharp stutter tip wobble to get the walk the dog effect. Will work with both fresh and salt water. Duolock clips and swivels to match. Total under $10. Make sure they are compact with a nice loop but still stronger than your line rating. Halco twisty 10gm in silver. About $6. Very effective when pelagics are feeding on the surface. I change the trebles out for a Gamakatsu large eye single hook in about a size #1 or #2 as it is a stronger hook and easier to remove when the fish is jumping around. Use these with the swivel and snap mentioned above to reduce line twist from the lure. For plastics I'd suggest some 2" grubs and 3" and 4" minnows (matches profile of most bait fish). I use Berkley Power Bait and Power Grubs as they play well together but I don't mix different brands in the same box as some don't play well with each other. Z-mans are notorious for this. One of the different brands will start to melt away. Stay away from Berkley gulps. In principle they are genius - a biodegradable, edible lure. In practice the liquid in the bags can leak out and make a mess and the lures dry up. Paddle tails and wriggle tails can be very effective as they generate their own movement. Squidgy make a nice range but bang for buck not brilliant. For the 2" grubs I use Gamakatsu 211 ball head jigs 1/8oz with a size #1 or #2 hook. You'll probably have to order these in specially. For the 3" minnow I like TT bullet head tournament jig heads: 1/8oz #1H hook for subtle presentation 1/6oz #1H for a balance between distance and sink rate or the 1/4oz #1H for when I am chasing pelagics or covering distance. In Sydney we could be fishing for flathead and end up with a king on the line which is why I have a preference for the H (heavy gauge) hooks rather than the fine ones. For the 4" minnow I like the TT bullet head tournament jig heads: 1/4oz #1/0H hook. Swing past Daiso (Japanese bargains) store and pick up a flip top plastic box with several compartments to store the various jig heads in. Most bargain shops will probably have something similar. For storage of the plastics leave them in their original bags till you need one. I put these bags in a bigger bag. Ecogear ZX40 - about $19. A very effective blade type lure once you work out how to fish them. Don't fish them in snaggy areas. Working these across sandy bottoms will pick up a variety of species. I have a black one, the bamboo one and some shiny ones. Depending on how you are going with your budget we can continue further but the above is a good starting point without going overboard. The straighter you rig your plastics the better they will swim. Regards, Derek PS - suggest you stay away from ultralight lures till you get familiar with your gear. If you don't wind on the line under tension there is a good chance you will get the odd birds nest or two. Rarely an issue with 1/8oz and above and the woven braids that are available these days..

Was going to get to that next... I'm gently leading you into more and more purchases. I don't want to bill shock you... 😊

Hi again, The palomar is an excellent knot for terminal tackle such as swivels but I find it there is a little too much line wastage. Unless you are using clips, each time you change lures that leader will get shorter and shorter. Try learning the uni (universal) knot. When you get that right you usually only end up trimming 10mm off the tag end. It is a slip knot so you don't have to tie it directly next to the lure. I might tie it 10-15cm up the line (keeps the hooks away from my hand when tying) and then gently slide it down to the lure. Be sure to test it and leave at least 5mm of tag when finished. I use 3 or 4 turns. With practice it is pretty easy to tie. More information to come. Derek

Hi again, I can see this thread going on for a while longer. If you go with my recommendation for the 6lb Kairiki or Daiwa J-braid before you spool it just pick it up and have a good look at how fine it is. It looks stupidly skinny but don't let it worry you as it is amazingly strong. If you try breaking it by gradually loading it up between your two hands I'm pretty confident it will cut into your skin before it breaks. I want you to have a bit of faith in the line selection and not get panicky and decide you need to go up to 8 or 10lb. I'd recommend getting some leader for shock absorption, abrasion resistance and an easy way to handline up the fish at the end of a fight (depending on how big the fish is). Depending on what I am fishing for with the outfit you are putting together I'll use between 6lb and 10lb leader with 8lb being my go to. I like Nitlon as it feels pretty supple for a fluorocarbon. Length of leader will come up as a query. Some people recommend X rod lengths of leader. I'm of the opinion about 80cm is sufficient. My leader length is selected to ensure the knot does not pass through the runners. If you can feel it passing through the guides there is some stress in the system. I know there are knots which are slim profile but I've heard first person before where it has still damaged the guide. Not likely but still possible. I started with Berkley Fireline Crystal in the 4lb many years ago. It is a fused braid and was one of the better value lines out there but it had its issues (fluffed up and weakened over time). The knot Berkley recommended for joining the main line to the leader is the double uni knot. I got very good at it with extremely little line wastage. In time I found out that doubling the braid up resulted in an even stronger knot. I've heard it referred to as the double double uni knot. A knot that is gaining a lot of popularity as one of the strongest out there is the FG knot. While I could tie it and have seen a few methods of tying the FG knot I stayed away from it as it was a pain to tie (most require various ways of keeping the tension in the lines) and usually had a fair bit of line wastage. If you are prepared to take the time it is worth learning. One of the Fishraider posted a method of tying it that turned the concept on its head and that is the method I now use. It can be found in this video. I use one or two half hitches to lock it up but then use a different method than the multiple half hitches shown and you will see that in the second link: Now the finish of the knot can be found at a little after five minutes on this link: These days I can manage to do it with the really fine lines (4lb braid and 6lb leader) but that has taken a bit of practice. With 10lb braid or heavier it comes up a treat. Generally my leaders are 50% to 100% more than my main line. The braid should be skinnier than the leader as it needs to bite in. Regards, Derek

Hi RHE, Out of curiosity have you recently made the decision to get into this style of fishing or are you upgrading from your current set-up? Depending on the answer I may be able to help short-cut your learning process (although working stuff out for yourself is extremely satisfying). BTW - no offence meant to SB88 but I'd avoid the ugly stick elite rod. The beauty of the graphite rods these days is that the sensitivity and response is phenomenal when compared to the older fibreglass or fibreglass tipped rods. While the Elite might be a nice all rounder it would be wasted on the Stradic you are thinking of getting. It would feel spongy. Kind of like putting a sports racing bike on knobbly off-road tyres. The fibreglass rods are great boat rods and will take a bump or ten. The graphite rods bruise if bumping up against say the side of a tinny. I've got graphite rods I've been fishing hard for 10 plus years but I don't abuse them. I don't bang them around and at the end of the fishing session they go back in their rod cases. I believe more rods probably get damaged by poor handling than through fishing. BTW the graphite rods conduct electricity so keep them away from power lines and lightning storms. They are strong but don't high stick well. Regards, Derek

Hi again RHE, If you haven't come across it yet have a look at YouTuber Sand Flat Fishing Australia and especially his top water fishing such as whiting. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJszBDEnd9m7siqN7QE67dQ As you are in Queensland it sounds like the fishing you have available will be similar to what he is doing. He often mentions the gear he uses (e.g. Atomic ArrowZ, sugapens, etc.) If you haven't discovered them have a look at the Sugapens or similar. Top water surface fishing is pretty addictive. We have been using these on the sandflats as well as freshwater for bass and redfin. Early this year I had three big strikes in three seconds on the sandflats and hooked up on the third. Turned out to be a very nice salmon. The big splashes as the fish just missed the lure got the heart racing. Another Queenslander with a YouTube channel worth looking at is DrewM. You can blame me for the additional gear you might decide you need to buy after watching these channels. I don't mind. Regards, Derek

Just because I'm not in the mood to type lots this evening have a look at this thread that I and others responded to a while back: Note that the original query was relating to boats and kayaks but then branched out into shore based and techniques to catch them. A lot of information in there.

Hi RHE, Braid generally over tests so my advice would be to go lighter as you will notice the difference in casting distance and if you get your knots right the strength is pretty impressive. For example I've been using Berkley X5 in white recently on a couple of my reels. While the American rating on the box is 4lb it also lists the rating under the Japanese testing system as 11lbs. In your case I'd probably fish a skinny 6lb braid. A couple of my mates are loving the Daiwa J-braid. I haven't used it but I have set a couple of mates up on the Shimano Kairiki (about $30). I've landed kingfish to 70cm on this gear (2500 reel with 2-4kg rod) so once you learn how to fish it you'll be pretty impressed at what it is capable of. One of my mates was really surprised at the difference a lighter braid made on casting distance. I was out-casting him by 3 to 5m. Might not sound like a lot but if I multiple this by 40m (20m to the left and 20m to the right of where I stand) I'm potentially fishing another 120m² to 200m² more area than him. When you spool up make sure you have sufficient backing so that the braid sits just below the lower lip of the spool. For years I've been recommending the Shimano Raider Bream Finesse 762 2-4kg 3-12gm and at a price point of about $100 if you shop around (try site sponsor Dinga). Recently I have been trying the Frogley Atomic ArrowZ range of rods and been impressed at them. Suggest you look at the Estuary Series and in particular the AS-270UL VSSM 7' 2-piece Spin 3 - 10lb 3 - 14g. Currently I've been seeing them at around $140. A few of my mates are using the Jewel range and really like them. I prefer a short butt as the longer one bumps up against my arm when I am fishing lures with the rod tip down. 7 foot or longer for tip speed and hence casting distance. 1 guide for every foot length of rod plus one more. For example a 7 foot rod should have 8 guides. An ergonomic handgrip as you will be doing a lot of casting. Just some things to think about. Regards, Derek

What line are you thinking of putting on the reel? Braid, mono or fluoro? What weight rating. For a reel in that size (2500) I'd personally be using 4lb (up to 6lb) in braid but you might have something else in mind. What are you thinking of fishing for with it? The line rating will have an impact (albeit minor) on the recommended rod. Do you have a budget in mind?

In answer to the original post - I don't bother with a loop knot for plastics as I think it is a waste of time. The loop knot is supposed to allow for less restricted movement of the lure, especially in the case of very lightweight flies (e.g. eye flies). Even a lightweight soft plastic complete with jig head has some weight - call it 3 to 12gms for discussions sake. Depending on how I am using the plastic I might I use an aggressive sharp flicking motion or a more subtle twitching motion. Each time I do this the force is transmitted down to the lure which due to mass and the resistance of water has an opposing resistance. That loop knot will develop a fold at the point at the where the eye meets the line. Loop knot won't act like a loop knot for very long under normal fishing. Yes I am an engineer and yes I overthink things and this is the conclusion I came to several years ago. I could also be wrong. I just use a uni knot. Quick and easy to tie and if you do it right there is very little line wastage which reduces the frequency of the times you have to tie on a new leader.

Going to be picky here - I don't think it is the half blood knot. I actually think it is the "locked" half blood knot as he has put the tip of the line through the second loop he created to create the lock. Details... details.... details

Hi Fishii, Shimano Raider snapper 762 (5-8kg) 15 to 45 gm lure weight. Should be able to pick it up for $100-$110 with some careful shopping. Try Dinga. The other one I have been looking at recently is the ArrowZ range of rods. In this case I'd suggest picking up the AAS-270H DPSM 7ft 2 piece Spin 14 - 30lb 10 - 50g. Should be able to find it for under $140. I don't own one yet as I didn't want to stop using the Raider Snapper but I've bought a couple of other rods in their line up and am happy with those. Regards, Derek PS. What reel are you thinking of matching it with? I'm running Shimano 4000 (Stradics or a Sedona) with 10 to 15lb line on mine. It balances pretty well.