roosterman Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Hi guys, well here i am again looking out for the best advice in town from the fr crew i am looking at a duel battery setup and need to know whats the good oil in the setup.... i have a 14ft pongrass and has an 80hp 3cl 2stroke pushing her along(very fast mind you,as i say no wasted fishing time to get to spot x) i also have navman trackfish 6500,livey tank,led nav lights and bilge pump... my existing battery is a seamaster n70 with about 600/650cca from memory and around 2-3 years old... i fish alot at night so need the bait tank running alot to keep those hard earned squiddies alive and get paranoid about running battery dead... this has already caused me to kill the bait once when i forgot to turn it back on in time (sorry again andrew) anyway i was looking into a duel setup for peace of mind and needed input as i always try to do things the right way or at least best bang for my hard earned..... i was looking at a auto setup with the relay for switching the charging when needed... is this better/worse than the manual types???? also what type for 2nd battery standard marine/sealed type or deep cycle and what size needed.. also which one to use as main runnur and which for kicking her in the guts to get me going..... i was thinking to keep n70 for cranking and deep cycle about same size for main running of tanks etc..... anyway thanks in advance guys.... steve..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lighthouse2k Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 look at a BEP VSR with a house and starter battery switch and also a parrallel overide if you want to use both batteries for a start. Will never run your start battery down. $263 look on the BLA or BEP website. That is the best but there are other alternatives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
achjimmy Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 look at a BEP VSR with a house and starter battery switch and also a parrallel overide if you want to use both batteries for a start. Will never run your start battery down. $263 look on the BLA or BEP website. That is the best but there are other alternatives. There is a BEP vsr system with switch that sells for around $180 in most chandlery's. Some BEP products are rebranded and sold through 4WD joints. Contact Huey @ Huett, on a recent thread he was offering them to raiders at a good price and he will give you the right advice on battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roosterman Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 is this vsr kit ok ..... or is there better ones... price is not the defining factor... just best options available.... cheers.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lighthouse2k Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Look at the one I gave you a description for. That is the entry level kit. http://www.bla.com.au/index.php?fn=product...692b25b365e0f8c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a boat Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Hi, good advise for everyone. The simplest system for your boat Steve would be part number 113651 at a retail of $194 (better for Raiders) upto the one in the link, whihc is a fully automatic system and the ideal. PM me if you would like the Raider price on either of these systems. Cheers, Huey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooky. Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 also what type for 2nd battery standard marine/sealed type or deep cycle and what size needed.. also which one to use as main runnur and which for kicking her in the guts to get me going..... i was thinking to keep n70 for cranking and deep cycle about same size for main running of tanks etc..... anyway thanks in advance guys.... steve..... G'day roosterman. I've just installed a dual system in my boat (not with a vsr system) and as far as the second battery goes I went for a "Supercharge Allrounder", the MRV50. They are a deep cycle battery and crank battery in one. http://linux.supercharge.com.au/products_s..._allrounder.php I have one in my 4WD as well and they certainly are a great benefit to have. In my boat I use the Allrounder as the house battery and secondary crank battery due to it's deep cycle and cranking capabilities and as my main I use the standard seamaster gold. http://linux.supercharge.com.au/product_detail.php?seq=72 Good luck cheers Hooky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roosterman Posted December 19, 2007 Author Share Posted December 19, 2007 thanks for the replies guys.... i sent you a pm huet regarding switches..... hi lighthouse,i searched and looked through bla and thanks for direct link,i dont understand why it has so many switches compared to the one huey posted????? will i need to get cabling or what extras will i need.... thanks for the battery info hookey.. how do you rate the supercharge batteries compared to others.... as for battery does anyone else have good ideas on brands/size etc i should look for.... i am leaning towards getting deep cycle around 70 size and using it as house battery and existing one as cranking one......should i be concerned on 2.5 yr old existing battery???????? thanks again guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lighthouse2k Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 (edited) There are no extra cables, its a straight rewire from a standard 2 battery switch. The main thing is it allows you to run the second battery in parralell in case you have a flat first battery. It is just an extra precaution. You will not be able to do this with other systems. It is basically just set and forget unless you want to use the parralell for starting. You can also turn all batteries off if that floats your boat. Ask Huey is you don't understand it. I only suggested it as you wanted the most fullproof answer. http://www.bepmarine.com/Dual-Battery-Char...r-180-1464.html may explain it more for you. It has a wiring diagram as well. 3 switches 1 start battery on/off 2 house battery on/off 3 parralell 2 batteries on or off Edited December 19, 2007 by lighthouse2k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
achjimmy Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 There are no extra cables, its a straight rewire from a standard 2 battery switch. The main thing is it allows you to run the second battery in parralell in case you have a flat first battery. It is just an extra precaution. You will not be able to do this with other systems. It is basically just set and forget unless you want to use the parralell for starting. You can also turn all batteries off if that floats your boat. Ask Huey is you don't understand it. I only suggested it as you wanted the most fullproof answer. http://www.bepmarine.com/Dual-Battery-Char...r-180-1464.html may explain it more for you. It has a wiring diagram as well. 3 switches 1 start battery on/off 2 house battery on/off 3 parralell 2 batteries on or off Sorry if i have missed it but what is the main difference between this system and the cheaper $190 unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lighthouse2k Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 You cannot do any of the above with the $190 system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roosterman Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 thanks for that lighthouse, so the difference is the ability to man set to off/batt 1/batt2/both i must be reading things wrong as this is from bep on the single switch one huet posted "Pre-wired module combining 701-S Mini Battery Selector Switch and a dual sensing Voltage Sensitive Relay. With the selector switch in position 1, it becomes the sensing battery for the VSR. When the engine is first started the relay is open and remains open until the selected battery reaches a preset 13.7 volt. The relay closes at the rated voltage providing charge to both batteries. When the selected battery voltage drops below 12.8 volt, the VSR disengages, separating the batteries and ensuring that battery 1 is not discharged by house loads. When the selector switch is in position 2, this becomes the sensing battery and the reciprocal occurs. When the selector switch is in the both position the VSR is inactive and the charge and load is distributed evenly between the batteries. With this system the loads are run off the same battery as the engine starting battery. An optional recessed mounting plate is also available." so much to learn but i do want to do it the right way.... thanks again mate.... steve... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lighthouse2k Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 (edited) With the system I mentioned you always have the same house and start battery. You power will never go under 12.7 volts when the engine if off on the start battery as it automatically switches to the house battery at this time. For me its a no brainer as I never have to switch anything around. You also have the ability to parralell the batterys if you did have battery problems. There is no switching between battery one and two on this system it is automatic. You can only turn them on or off if you wish to. Edited December 20, 2007 by lighthouse2k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roosterman Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 so from what your saying about switching do you mean you cannot switch the house as a crank battery with switch and would have to manually swap cables around..... sooooo bloody confusing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lighthouse2k Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Thats right, but you can parallel the house with the crank for extra starting power. Appreciating that your start battery should never be much below 12.7 as anything under that when the motor is off and the power is coming from the house battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roosterman Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH i will stop now i think i get it...... so if i went the single one i would have to physically swap cables to crank motor over.... but what aboutthis statement .........."When the selector switch is in position 2, this becomes the sensing battery and the reciprocal occurs." the more i think about it the more bloody confused as i still see no difference unless the wording from bla is abit missleading........... huet can you please add to this also.......... thanks again for your time lighthouse...... i think alot of people may get something from a thread like this..... pretty important to have good pwr supply when on the ol briney as ya cant just clutch start the bugger if alls flat eh ... an my dodgy back aint up to roping the flywheel on my 80hp...... ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lighthouse2k Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 The other system you can still run your start battery flat, yes you can manually switch on the other battery if you want. The one I have shown you, you never need to switch, it is close to impossible to run your start battery flat as it will mostly never go below 12.7v except when starting. If you want manual, get the cheaper system, if you want automatic get the more expensive system. If you are only ever going to install it once and money is no object get the better system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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