Rod Question For The Pro's

[WillN]

Hi raiders,

I've been searching for a new rod. I'm looking to spend up to $300, but before buying it I'd like to learn more about the mechanics. If anyone can shed some light on the below I'd be very grateful!

1. Rod taper: how does this affect the way I need to fish? what difference does it make if I get a slow taper vs a fast taper?

2. Technique specific actions: are there major differences between rods that are technique specific and a general purpose graphite rod? eg. The Daiwa Cielo is specifically made for dropshotting, if I use it for normal bait and lure fishing, is it less effective and why? Generally I use a sinker straight through to the hook for bait and use light darter style jig heads for sp fishing.

3. Line rating: getting a 2-4kg rod or a 3-6kg rod, is there a difference in casting distance if I choose one over the other assuming I use 6lb/8lb braid?

4. Guides: everyone knows that Fuji SiC's, Gold cermets and recoil guides are the best, but from a usage perspective, will it matter if I have Alconites? I heard that Alconites can take more punishment than the top of the line guides(aside from REC's)

5. Reel seat: rod advertisers always claim they have this fuji reel seat or that fuji reel seat, what difference is there from a usage point of view, doesn't it just hold the reel in place? Obviously some are more comfortable than others, but are there any other differences?

6. Rod tip: i've used some rods with very soft tips and it seems that I miss a lot of strikes, but I've also read that stiff tips aren't that great for lure fishing. Whenever I feel a bite, I lift my rod gently but this doesn't seem to work with the soft rods that I have, should I just stick to stiffer rods or should I change my habits to get more out of my gear?

Sorry about the length of the post, I look forward to the replies!

Cheers,

Will

Edited April 11, 2009 by WillN

[bass_beginner]

Ok well here goes by no means am i an expert and im sure if this thread is boosted back up top the top of the recent posts one of the more senior members will help you further but i will answer with the best of my knowledge and all of my reading mind u it has been a fair bit lately owing as im considering doing some rods and trying to do it as a lil more than a hobby whilst am uni and seeing where it leads... ok to start

1) Rod Taper...

Rod taper does not so much influence how u fish rather how u wish to fish afects what rod taper u look for something of a fast taper means it bends a little over a large portion of the rod and greatly in the final section and a slow taper as such refers that it bends throughout the rod..

The taper is important for several reasons. The feel for the lure being used and the fish being caught dictate the appropriate taper use.

A fast action tip will be used when fishing jig type lures. The angler can feel and therefore control what the lure is doing quite easily. Since only the very tip of the rod bends, when a fish strikes the angler has ample rod shaft and backbone to set the hook correctly.

In contrast to fast tapers, the slow flex rods offer the angler advantages when fighting large fish with light fishing line. This additional flex allows the rod to absorb the force of the fish as opposed to the lineas such fishing for bream with light line with a slow tqaper rod you can use the rod to increase the pressure you can out on the fish.

2) Technique Specification...

Tecnique wise most of the rods that you will buy off the rack have a general purpose element to them which means that you may buy a rod to spin small sp's but it will still have more in it to cast baits than a rod that you have had custom built for a specific purpose..as such it is more of a the other elements you have described in nthe other questions that effect the type of rod that wrks for..

3) Line rating...

This refers to the idea that if a fishing rod is rated at a specific weight ie 2 - 4 kg it represents that the rod will behave in its prescribed manner if being used at its optimum line rating. meaning that if a rod is rated at 2 - 4 kg then if you are using 20lb line the rod will behave differently given the extra tension that can be applied..

4) Guides...

Ok basically in a article writtin by ian miller the main purpose of the guide is to control the line during casting and fighting the fish and as such the lightest option that will cover the nrod is often the most viable one. bearing in mind you get what you pay for and that fuji guides are a class above the rests you can get many other australian components that i am a big fan of (pacific composites) however for comfort and weight wise for the fisherman especially during prolonged periods of fishing or fighting the lighter the components the more beneficial for you but keeping in mind what the line rating of the rod will be.

5) Reel Seat...

this is where someone else will have to help outside my understanding that before building a rod for someone it is required that i know that they intend to use a sidecast reel or a eggbeater i edo not underdstand to much about the extravagancies behind the reel seat but if anyone does have any further knowledge i would apreciate a pm with someone to explain to me the idea behind the intricacies of it.

6) Rod Tips

Ok i am unsure what exactly you mean but im gonna try and answer it as i understand it and if im off the track comment and ill try and have another go. Now i think what youre refering to is the modulus of a blank which encompasses the power action and modulus.. modulus refers to the ratio between the stiffness and weight of the rod.basically meaning the higher the modulus of the blank the heavier and stiffer it will be. in reference to your use of floppier blanks for sp's or jigging then i believe that a softer or floppier rod is definately a better option for sofyt plastics as it allows for more subtlety to the actions however if casting poppers or jigs to big gts up north a stiffer blank would be a better option....

i hope ive helped you out a little but if you need anymore information send me a pom and ill try and answer anymore of your questions orrrr comment here and i think some of the more experienced guys weill be able to help/.

[stinger]

hi

with the reel seat i would certainly get one with a fuji brand because others do get stuck

sic is silicon carbide i think.

they are expensive and stronger mostly on jigging rods due to heavy lines and drags

taper an alvey rod is slow so it can cast a mile

strokers are normaly fast so the line doesent touch at the grip and or touch the blank

stinger