Rod Building

[raf]

im repairing my rod and just wondering what are the thread sizes available?? i went and bought some today and its C grade?? would this be thinner or thicker than A grade?

cheers

[woodch0p]

im repairing my rod and just wondering what are the thread sizes available?? i went and bought some today and its C grade?? would this be thinner or thicker than A grade?

cheers

Thicker. I used d grade on my last rod due to not doing underbinding. The thicker stuff is also easier to work with in my experience when starting off.

[davebrewer]

Standard practice is to use A for light rods, C for heavier-surf, rock and game rods etc.

Cheers,

Dave.

[nestora]

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QUOTE(Dave B @ Sep 30 2009, 06:46 PM) 324588[/snapback]

Standard practice is to use A for light rods, C for heavier-surf, rock and game rods etc.

Cheers,

Dave.

From what I understood from a pro rod builder was that 'A' size thread is used for heavier rods and all game rods, the reason behind it is because its a thinner line and you get more winds and that actually increases strength, but then again I could be wrong, I have only just started out on rod building and used 'A' size thread on a jewie rod I just built as recommended by the pro.

I am pretty sure on the Doc Ski DVD he uses 'A' size on all his Tuna rods.

[davebrewer]

No reason not to use A for heavier rods but I wouldn't be doing it without a powered winding jig unless I had a lot of time to spare-winding by hand like I do is very tedious.Miller and Clemens both suggest C for heavier applications,that's good enough for me.

Cheers,

Dave.

[nestora]

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QUOTE(Dave B @ Oct 2 2009, 07:43 AM) 324750[/snapback]

No reason not to use A for heavier rods but I wouldn't be doing it without a powered winding jig unless I had a lot of time to spare-winding by hand like I do is very tedious.Miller and Clemens both suggest C for heavier applications,that's good enough for me.

Cheers,

Dave.

Fair enough Dave, you are right about hand winding 'A' thread, it took ages and was tedious my hand was aching just laying the backing.

I might go with your suggestion on using 'C' on my next rod, Rodworks have a nice lathe with a precision headstock on sale and am very tempted in getting one, any suggestions as to who may stock lathes for starting out at a reasonable price would be appreciated also.

Theo

[davebrewer]

Sorry Theo,not offhand,but I'd try our site sponsor Gofish as a first port of call.

Cheers,

Dave.

[gretsch]

On heavier rods, I use A for underbinds with metallic trims and C for the overbinds.

There are two main reasons for this:

1. A for the underbinds means I can use A metallics and pack it all in nice and snug and it looks very sharp. It also burnishes down very smoothly and creates a nice surface over which to place the guides.

2. The C overbinds wont dig into the A underbinds and cause those annoying gaps

Also, remember that to wrap a guide on, you don't need huge amounts of tension. This will lead to cracking in the epoxy fish at the tips of the guide feet.

[luderick -angler]

I have built and repaired a lot of rods from age 12 mostly dads antiques! I always use gudebrod or pearsalls silk generally i use a and hand whip takes time but the results are stunning and result in a stronger bind just remember gullivers travels I usually underbind in a andit provides a good base to prvent the guide fee damaging your $300 loomis or sage blank!!!!!! or your bespoke cane blank from the UK!

I overbind in C and always finish off using Erskines filler and epoxy for glass/ graphite and a marine spar varnish on cane!

heres one of my cane rods i did a couple years ago