Shimano Stradic 2500Fh

[slinkymalinky]

Here's a reel I know is in a lot of Fishraider's tackle cupboards. This Stradic 2500 is one of my favourite workhorses. And it gets a lot of use so the fact it's still as smooth as the day it came out of the box is testament to its build quality and to the importance of regular maintenance.

First the schematics... you'll find a copy here

http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/displayimage.php?album=8&pos=402

but take note... these schematics show a single stack drag (one fibre and one metal washer) while my 2500 has a triple stack (3 of each). Not sure if this might be a slight difference in the Australian released model.

Let's start by removing the spool so we can sort out the drag.

To get at the drag washers, remove the retaining spring (ref# 2707)

Then pull out the drag washers (keeping them in order of course). I got an upgrade set of Carbontex washers from http://www.smoothdrag.com to replace the stock fibre washers (ref# 8801).

The Carbontex washers get a coat of drag grease (if you're keeping the original fibre washers, clean out the old grease in white spirit and then regrease them with drag grease... they should be completely impregnated with grease).

Put a thin coat of grease onto the surface of the drag recess in the spool then replace all the drag washers and the retaining spring... a smear of grease on the top surface of the top metal washer finishes it off.

I tested the drag pressure on this reel before swapping the washers. With the reel on a rod, the rod in a rod holder, and using spring scales, the drag at full lock with the stock washers (in excellent condition I might add) was 3.8kg. With the Carbontex upgrades, the drag pressure has increased to 5.2kg... that's a 37% increase with absolutely no start up and perfectly smooth.

While you've got the spool, put lightly grease the drag clicker and spring under the spool.

Now let's move on to the body... begin by removing the anti-reverse lever (ref# 7877)... just back out the screw.

Next reverse out the 2 retaining screws (ref# 4150 & 7878) holding the rear protector (ref# 7820), which can be removed along with the rear shield (ref# 7821).

Remove the handle screw and slip out the handle

Now back out the left side plate screws (ref# 6596 & 6597x2)... make sure you remember exactly where they came from, the 3 screws are not all identical.

You won't be able to remove the side plate until you first partially remove the rotor, so back out the rotor nut lock-screw (ref# 6289) then undo the rotor nut (ref# 71).

With the rotor able to be moved out of the way, the left side plate can now be lifted off (the flange on the side plate tucks under the rotor when it's in place).

Moving inside, first slip off the left side plate bearing (ref# 7801) and the washer beneath (ref# 41). This bearing measures 7 x 13 x 4mm... clean it and put it aside.

Then lift out the drive gear (ref# 8513).

Turn your attention to the worm shaft retaining plate (ref# 7823) that can be removed by backing out the screw (ref# 7822)

Next slip out the worm screw rear bushing so it doesn't fall out when you're not looking (ref# 6493) and put it aside.

Back inside the reel, take out the pawl cover screw (ref# 4675), remove the pawl cover (ref# 7815) and spacer washer beneath (ref# 2298)

Slide out the 2 slider guide pins (ref# 7824 & 7825) and the worm screw (ref# 7873)

Use a pair of tweezers to lift out the pawl assembly (2 parts ref# 6060... the bushing; and ref# 7857... the pawl itself). It doesn't matter if they come out together or separately.

Now the main shaft can be rotated so that you can get at the oscillating slider retaining screw (which is underneath the slider in its usual position). Back it out and slip the oscillating slider (ref# 7816) off the end of the main shaft (ref# 8838)

The main shaft can now be slipped out of the reel and the rotor (ref# 7870) is now free and can be put aside.

Immediately beneath the rotor is the clutch bearing assembly. I wouldn't recommend taking it apart unless you absolutely have to and to quickly show you why, here I've taken out the 3 longer screws (ref# 6486) that hold the bearing (ref# 6040) and bearing plate (ref# 7244) onto the reel. Then I've removed the shorter bearing assembly screws (not even shown in the schematic... Shimano really don't want you messing with this bearing).

Now lets lift off the top plate from the bearing and see what we find....

Look at all those springs, pins and mounts. Just quietly put the top plate back, and move along. As far as I know, the pins in this roller bearing are stainless steel... so no lube at all, either (just in case you're unsure, Shimano have it stamped into the bearing in Japanese and English ).

So to stop yourself going insane trying to find or refit lost bearing bits, only remove the longer clutch bearing mounting screws (they're the ones located in the 'cut outs' in the bearing plate). Then lift of the clutch bearing as a unit.

With the clutch bearing out of the way, slip out the pinion gear (ref# 7802) and main shaft bearing (ref# 7801). The main shaft bearing is 7 x 13 x 4mm.

Clean the bearing while it's handy... I now use an aerosol can of Carb Cleaner... it lets you blast a high pressure spray of solvent through the bearing to really do a thorough job. After using the carb cleaner, pressurized air will dry it out for you (available in aerosols at office supply shops)

Remove the friction ring (ref# 7804) and the right side plate bearing (ref# 2852) and that's as far as this strip down needed to go. This bearing is 7 x 11 x 3mm... give it a good clean.

Clean up the cracks and crevices around and inside the body. A cotton bud and pipe cleaners dipped in white spirit are handy for getting into tight spots.

Now we can start the rebuild. First up, having cleaned out the body thoroughly give it a thin coat of grease. For this and most of my small spinning reels I'm using Shimano Permalub... it's a lighter grease that sacrifices some adhesion & protection for the sake of allowing freer running parts than my heavy 'blue grease'... it's all a balancing act based on what you want from your reels.

Clean up and replace the friction ring

Oil the main shaft bearing... getting to use my new CorrosionX and ReelX (same stuff only thinner)here.

Then replace the bearing on the pinion gear, grease the pinion gear teeth and slip it back into the reel.

Oil and replace the right side plate bearing

Lightly coat the worm screw with grease and reinstall it now (this is one time where putting it back together in the same order can cause problems... the worm screw has to be aligned carefully with the hole in the idle gear (ref# 7808) and front worm bushing (ref# 7807). It's a lot easier at this stage.

Reinstall the clutch bearing

Next, slip the main shaft back into the reel making sure to put it through the rotor nut and rotor first. And the oscillating slider can be reattached to the shaft.

Turn the shaft over so that the slider is the right way up, reinstall the pawl and pawl bushing, add a drop of oil, replace the spacer washer and replace the pawl cover.

Next you can grease the 2 slider guide pins between greasy fingers and reinstall them.

Replace the rear worm shaft bushing, add a drop of oil here too, and refit the worm screw retaining cover

Grease the main drive gear. A small paintbrush makes it much easier... a light smear all over and a good coat on the teeth is what you need. Then slip it back into place, making sure it properly engages with the pinion gear.

Replace the washer and lubed left side bearing on the drive gear and add a light smear of grease to the inside of the left side plate

There's a small nut (ref# 7826) for the rear protector which has to be seated in a cavity in the right side plate. A touch of grease won't go astray.

Screw the left side plate back on before properly seating the rotor and retightening the rotor nut and nut retaining screw.

Reposition the rear shield before replacing the rear protector using it's 2 screws.

Reattach the anti-reverse lever

and the reel handle and handle screw

Pop the spool back on and you're almost done.

Let's give some TLC to the line roller... back out the line roller screw (ref# 7469) so you can dismantle the roller assembly.

Take apart the roller assembly in order and orientation... roller washer (ref# 74630, spacer washer (ref# 6294, line roller itself (ref# 6035), line roller bushing (ref# 6293) and the line roller bearing (ref# 7786)

... sorry, forgot to measure that bearing but give it a clean (slipping it over both arms of a pair of tweezers makes dealing with it easier)

I packed this roller bearing with Permalub grease

before reassembling the roller parts on the spindle, lightly greasing the cavity inside the bail and putting it back together.

All finished...

[slinkymalinky]

[Jewhunter]

Slinky. Once again that is a fantastic & very comprehensive overview of a reel stripdown.

Anyone that follows your procedures will have a reel that is better than new.

It works well on the big jacks as well.

Even better when your mate is yelling at you when you are hooked up. " You've got 5.2 kg of drag! Use it!!!

Great stuff mate.

Cheers,

Grant.

[Ray R]

Bloody fantastic Tony, thankyou for that huge effort, might give mine a bit of a deeper inspection now thanks to your pics.

Great work Slinky..

[DarkHorse]

Awesome thanks slinky!

Can you please post some links on here on by pm where to get the permalub and oil?

I thought the little inspection hole on the left side of the reel was for putting oil inside, as I understand it oil and grease dont work well together?

I have the shimano and two daiwa's that need a service, what was your postal address again????

Regards,

Rob

[top breamer]

G'day slinky

thanks for the great advise just a quick query will the 2500 drag washers fit on a 1000 sustain ?

cheers

[slinkymalinky]

Don't know the size of Sustain drag washers but the washers that went into my Stradic were 4 x 19.5 x 0.9mm (inside diameter x outside diameter x thickness).

E-mail Dawn at Smooth Drag http://www.smoothdrag.com/ and I'm sure she'll be able to tell you... she'll need the exact reel model

info@smoothdrag.com

Cheers, Slinky

[top breamer]

thanks will shoot her off a message