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Big swells coming this week


Ray R

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Some big waves coming this week, we'll see how right they are on thurs and friday...

(Click on the pic to see larger size)

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Got a few dark and gloomy pics early, might get some better ones later in the day..

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Edited by Ray R
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Yes an east coast low is beggining to form in Bass Strait. It will wedge itself onto the back end of the High we have just had and will get caught between the one that is following, allowing the fetch of the wind to widen. The large swell will begin in a nice fetch from wide of the sth Island NZ. Swell should start picking up wednesday. And by Thursday Friday will hit 6m plus of beautiful groundswell from the SE. Which will be nicely spaced apart and will look like big lines coming in from the cliffs. The swell looks to be constant Sat and Sun and will be coming from almost straight from Antartica SE. There are going to be many happy surfers this week especially further up the coast. RE "Ours" it was long a Cronulla surf spot before Mark and a few other Maroubra, Bronte guys began surfing it.

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9.6 is huge definitely not looking good for getting out fishing this week

the swell size you are quoting would wipe out most of our ocean front houses,the way the wave rider bouys work is a max high and max low of the bouy as it rise's and falls in the swell ,true wave hight is half of that ,measure from the center up or center down ,not top to bottom .all wave including sound are measured center up or down for true hight or size .

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Customcasting, Wave height is the vertical height between successive wave crests and troughs. The bouys are located in 80M of water. They measure wave height from trough to crest, using an accelerometer to measure the displacement. As someone who surfed most of their life we always guestimated the surf size from trough to crest as well.

Somehow i dont think a 30ft swell is going to damage much of our ocean front houses especially in Sydney, most of the cliffs are over 30ft high. The 9,6 is the highest wave recorded today, have seen a 14m wave recorded a few years back off Botany, didnt see any damage the next day :beersmile

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