Repositioning Guides

[keenist]

swapped a rod with a fellow fishraider (i wont mention names) and have found that it doesn't have sufficient number of guides and they are positioned all wrong. when fully loaded, being a baitcaster the line touches and pulls down below the blank.

anyone know the best method of removing the guides and residual epoxy?

the rod is a daiwa procaster z light baitcaster (freddy's) and i'd advise anyone interested not to buy one. even though it has a nice action and quality finish/componentry, this just shouldn't happen on a rod in this price range

[Tim]

swapped a rod with a fellow fishraider (i wont mention names) and have found that it doesn't have sufficient number of guides and they are positioned all wrong. when fully loaded, being a baitcaster the line touches and pulls down below the blank.

anyone know the best method of removing the guides and residual epoxy?

the rod is a daiwa procaster z light baitcaster (freddy's) and i'd advise anyone interested not to buy one. even though it has a nice action and quality finish/componentry, this just shouldn't happen on a rod in this price range

58324[/snapback]

Use a flat file. Just file down the epoxy & thread above the foot of the guide, so you don't damage the blank. Once you get through the thread you'll be able to peel it off and the thread will unwind with the epoxy. You'll probably still have some of the epoxy left on the blank, so use a rasor blade to scrape it off.

You'll find it to be pretty easy.

[marlin_dc]

i like to use a blade to slowly scrape off the epoxy at the legs of the guides. By doing that u prevent damaging the guides and the blank. Once u reach the threads cut the 1st layer off and slowly peel the threads off. Before u rebind the guides try and clean the blank alittle 1st so that the epoxy would be clean and tidy.

regards

Darryl

[keenist]

thanks for the replies guys.

think i'm going to reposition the guides into the "spiral wrap" position so as to not need to add a guide and maybe mess with the action.

i heard acetane is good for cleaning the blank after the guides have been removed as per the above methods. might give that a shot.

cheers,

alex

[allen glover]

I spoke to the old Daiwa rep about it and he said it wouldn't matter because I'm using braid. That makes sense but it's not what you want when you pay that kind of money for a rod.

58351[/snapback]

Swoff

A rep would say that.

In fact it matters a whole lot more than just on line wear on the blank.

It has a whole range of both guide angle, and tourqueing issues.

excessive angle leads to line wear even in braid as the angler over the guide is too steep not due to it touching the blank. The greater the angle over the guide the exponentially greater the tourqueing, especially up at the tip. A properly guided rod distributes the twist right throughout the rod whereas short guided rods load it all into the tip

This inevitably leads to snapped blanks. Rods are simply not designed to be twisted sideways.

A

Keenist

If your not comfy with doing it yourself get a quality builder to look at it.

they will in all likelyhood be able increase its performance in other areas at the same time.