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Fly leaders...


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g'day guys!

next week i and going to give fly fishing a go... it seems there are a few different types of leaders tho which adds to confusion.

  • tappered
  • straight mono
  • furled (made from mono (saw this on youtube)
  • braid

what do you guys do? what works best in what situations?

I am likely to fly fish carp initially then later trout. different leaders for different fish?

all feedback appreciated :)

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hey ving,

flyfishos like to make it, interesting, and more than a little complicated, the joy is not so much difficulty of all the various options and methods , but its addictive having technical options, and adaptable systems, we like something for every variable, even if we don't use them, its like we need to know they there ( so we have excuses ??) its weird but fun having a long drawn out process , method or idea to help adapt haha ( prob could do away with half of it for 98% of the time.. but then there is that 2% where it or you can save the day and justify all the BS lol

ok ill try answer you questions but it will take a load of space for fear i miss something :ranting2:

tapered leaders help the leader unroll better and thus i suggest them to guys starting out and people like me who are not superstars & are lazy casters lol, but they cost or you need to fiddle and make your own tapered ones with diff bits of mono.

furled leaders are a way of getting same result as tapered leaders, good transfer of energy to the tippet to "turn the fly over"-- thats is unroll in a pretty fashion at the end of the cast , usually best for salt water work as they are usually bulky and have some built in shock absorber in their design and i'm no good at making them hehe

straight is good to get deep fast or for times when presentation is not important ( though a good caster can likely make good presentations with anything)

braided usually fine mono braided.. bit like the hollow braided mono loops used to join line via loop to loop or wind on game leaders . fly ones are usually a tapered braid and coated with something to make them sink,or float, i have not seen them in a while, coated poly leader dominate that market now . they can also loads of water and throw droplets that spook fish.. so they say.. shallow, clear heavily fished water????

to reduce sinking we use floatant, like muscilin, or silicone on the butt and mid section to fine tune the depth fished and sink rate, tapered mono sink slower due to the diameter of the line, fly type and construction, material type, added weight and hook gauge will also play a big roll in depth - you can use a strike indicator to control depth if dead drifting flies

if you have a bunch of spools of diff strength mono i will happily give you a rough recipe to make you own you that suits your purpose you just need to tell me couple of things

what tippet strength did you want? i.e what strength did you want to tie to the fly?

do you need one for spooky fish or a standard one ?

what weight rod/ what weight line ?

what you fishing for?

shallow or deep water, what depth do you want a fly?

is its still or running water?

is it usually very windy there?

none of this is my original thinking, its stuff you get from books mates websites etc,.. and i dont guarantee results or anything lol

anything here can be googled and you'll find heaps more by better qualified people ;-)

hope that helps a little



Edited by jimmy72
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hey jimmy, thansk for the reply.

its a 4wt outfit with floating line. initially i will be targeting carp in shallow water so either getting the top feeders with a floating fly or bottom feeders in about 1m of water max with a sinking fly. I am thinking 4lb to the fly the water runs VERY slowly to almost a standstill. and only a little wind gets to the spot where i fish.

later i'll target trout in streams.

certainly be easier to make my own leaders than purchase. I can furl if needed.

Edited by ving
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hi Ving,

now it depends on line thickness and that can vary a bit so a rough guide would be (cut the sections at noted it allows you 5cms on each section of line to allow for your 3 turn surgeons knots to join them, should end up around 3m long

for 4lb tippet

butt 155cms of 20

mid esction / taper 30 cms of 14- 30 cms of 10 - 30 cms of 6

tippet 80cms of 4lb

i think 4lb might be too light those mudsucker pull hard

maybe try a 6lb tippet

butt155cm of 22lb

mid/ tapered section 30cms 16lb - 30cms 12 lb -30 cms of 8lb

tippet 80cms of 6lb

if its windy say summer arvo nor easter or bigger flies or i have sent you on a goose chase and the leader is collapsing on delivery , i,e not rolling out fully then try go 20cms longer on the butt and take 20cms off the tippet... if you need more delicate presentation extend the tippet a bit

again all care no responsibility



PS i sent you a PM on some carp on fly stuff

Edited by jimmy72
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for a 6wt you'll do better with a heavier butt section, so something like

for 4lb tippet

butt 155cms of 30lb

mid section / taper 30 cms of 18lb (or 16) - 30 cms of 13 lb(or 12) - 30 cms of 8lb

tippet 80cms of 4lb

( remember this is based on mono thickness not breaking strain at approx 70 - 75% of previous section, so sometimes its guessimate or you use what you have closest to that diameter required.. for reference i use the scientiific angler freshwater tippet thicknesses as thats what i have in a chart and in my vest - my mates are into stroft so their results will be different breaking strain its a little bit thinner per breaking strain. but we are only fishing here its not brain surgery.



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