No water from telltale.

[dimples]

Hi Raiders,I have an 02' 60hp 4 stroke yamaha which i don't use often (twice since i bought it in Jan) but i do give it a 10 min flush around every 3 weeks.

Yesterday I tried it & no water coming out of telltale,checked for blockage in telltale hose & ran it again in a large drum still no water but there is a bit of air pressure coming out.

My question is can an impeller/waterpump be worn even though it's pumping air out of the telltale or could it be something else like a frozen thermostat?

Service receipts say the impeller was replaced 19 months ago.

Thanks.

[achjimmy]

Gone, the rubber in the impellers can go hard, and reduce performance of the pump. Was the thermostat open?

[dimples]

Hi achjimmy thank's for the reply,I removed the thermostat cover & held it in the open position whilst running the motor for 30 seconds..not a drop from there.

[fragmeister]

How are you getting water to it...using muffs?

[The Incredible Hull]

First thing I do when I buy a car\boat is to a full service, so you know where its at.

Don't muck around and replace the impeller. It doesn't cost much, maybe $150 from a boat mechanic, or $50 to do it yourself (youtube it).

[dimples]

That's good advice Incredible,Well I took the pump housing off & found the impellor destroyed (took a pic but don't know how to post it)

Worst thing is half the rubber is missing

[Fab1]

That's good advice Incredible,Well I took the pump housing off & found the impellor destroyed (took a pic but don't know how to post it)

Worst thing is half the rubber is missing

Take the water pickup grate off the lower unit, more than likely the remainder of the bits of rubber will be wedged in there.

You want to trace the passages down from the impellor to the pickup and remove all the rubber before installing a new impellor.

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[a boat]

The broken blades will have gone the other way and will be somewhere in the water tube and/or powerhead. You need to find them otherwise they can block the water passages and the engine will get hot. Your engine has a notorious elbow under the powerhead and my money would be right there is where these blades will be stuck-painful job to get to this area too and will often get clogged with salt too.

[The Incredible Hull]

That's good advice Incredible,Well I took the pump housing off & found the impellor destroyed (took a pic but don't know how to post it)

Worst thing is half the rubber is missing

Good work buddy! Was your gear linkage easy to detach? Is it one of those where you un-tighten 2 nuts?

My outboard is a pain in the @ss... the gear linkage is attached via a tiny hollow pin... makes it stupidly hard to get the shaft inside the linkage and then the pin both out and in. It was definitely a 2 man job.

Make sure you put a tiny bit of marine grease inside the pump housing before you put it back together.

[Fab1]

The broken blades will have gone the other way and will be somewhere in the water tube and/or powerhead. You need to find them otherwise they can block the water passages and the engine will get hot. Your engine has a notorious elbow under the powerhead and my money would be right there is where these blades will be stuck-painful job to get to this area too and will often get clogged with salt too.

Great info Huey, on the 4-5 outboard impellors I've done over the years, the ones with disintegrated impellor vanes I found the bits under the intake grate.

My reasoning was the same as yours, you'd think the bits would be sucked up the water tube and either lodge somewhere there or the powerhead.

After blowing out the passages with compressed air it wasn't the case for me.

Obviously you see alot more outboards than myself, what proportion of engines are the pieces found in the intake verses up towards the powerhead.

Cheers.

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[Guest Aussie007]

is the 50hp merc 4 stroke 98 the same engine? that powerhead is bloody heavy to lift off i struggled doing a powerhead change over on mine just lifting it off and onto the other leg definatly get a mate to help you it would be easy with two blokes lifting

for me it was a pretty strait forward job and can be done in a couple of hours or less, if u do it your self remember to replace the gasket under the powerhead there not cheap from memory either also shit might fall in your engine oil so give the sump a wash out before u put the powerhead back on

[dimples]

Good work buddy! Was your gear linkage easy to detach? Is it one of those where you un-tighten 2 nuts?

Mine is splined at the top & fits in like the drive shaft,only thing I had to do was unscrew the nut on speedo cable.

Take the water pickup grate off the lower unit, more than likely the remainder of the bits of rubber will be wedged in there.

You want to trace the passages down from the impellor to the pickup and remove all the rubber before installing a new impellor.

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I found several pieces down there thanks Fab1.

The broken blades will have gone the other way and will be somewhere in the water tube and/or powerhead.

I'm still missing around a blades worth of rubber,so I removed the thermostat & thought I'd put the garden hose in there to back flush,strong hard waterflow coming out of the watertube but no sign of rubber pieces in the water drum.

Someone suggested I remove the 4 pencil anodes from the head & try to blow out any pieces with the airgun or flush out with water.

I removed the top 3 without any probs but the bottom anode broke (of course),snapped flush with the face so I cant get pliers on it,so I'm debating whether to leave it in & let it corrode away or risk pushing it through by drilling & using an easyout.

[Guest Aussie007]

never use an easy out on outboards they'll snap off in there and your screwed because the easy outs are hardend steel u cant drill them out once they snap off and the easy out will snap trust me

the only option is to drill out the snapped bolt and retap the thread sounds easy right? those are stainless steel bolts in the engine and a real pita to keep the drill centred, take it to huey he'll fix it right for u the right way

[dimples]

the only option is to drill out the snapped bolt and retap the thread sounds easy right? those are stainless steel bolts in the engine and a real pita to keep the drill centred, take it to huey he'll fix it right for u the right way

Not the bolt Aussie, they came out ok..it was the anode that broke.

I'd love to take it to Huey mate but I have more time than I do coin at the moment so I'm just trying see what I can do myself to find the missing pieces (assuming they r still there).If I have no luck with it I'll book it in...last thing I want is to be stuck outside somewhere with an overheating motor

Thanks for all the help guys appreciate it

Edited December 4, 2014 by Gone home hungry

[Fab1]

Mine is splined at the top & fits in like the drive shaft,only thing I had to do was unscrew the nut on speedo cable.

I found several pieces down there thanks Fab1.

I'm still missing around a blades worth of rubber,so I removed the thermostat & thought I'd put the garden hose in there to back flush,strong hard waterflow coming out of the watertube but no sign of rubber pieces in the water drum.

Someone suggested I remove the 4 pencil anodes from the head & try to blow out any pieces with the airgun or flush out with water.

I removed the top 3 without any probs but the bottom anode broke (of course),snapped flush with the face so I cant get pliers on it,so I'm debating whether to leave it in & let it corrode away or risk pushing it through by drilling & using an easyout.

The methods I've used in the past to remove broken bolts that are flush with the component are:

Left handed drill bits-as you drill sometimes the drill will take a bite and walk the broken fastener back out.

Air hammer-Sometimes you can shock free by digging a pointed bit into the broken fastener and shock loading it in a anti-clockwise direction.

Heli coil-drill broken fastener out one size larger than original and fit appropiate helicoil and new fastener.

Ezi-outs-have their place in certain situations, yes if you snap one they are a bugger to drill out, I've snapped a few in my time and never had a problem drilling them out with good quality diamond drill bits.

Welding-This is the riskiest of the lot when dealing with aluminium, I've welded nuts, bolts, washers on edge to broken fasteners and simply unscrewed them using either spanners, sockets, vise grips etc.

There is 1000 different ways of dealing with broken fasteners and each has it's own challenges, but the key is taking it slow and steady and use whatever means you have at your disposal whether it's tooling, heat etc.

I've never had a fastener I couldn't remove, I don't know wheather it's skill or simply because I'm a stubborn bastard and will stay up all night if I have to to remove.

Good luck with it mate, if your not sure what your doing, please let someone that does deal with it as it can go from bad to worse in a real hurry.

Ask me how I know.

Cheers.

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[Guest Aussie007]

Not the bolt Aussie, they came out ok..it was the anode that broke.

I'd love to take it to Huey mate but I have more time than I do coin at the moment so I'm just trying see what I can do myself to find the missing pieces (assuming they r still there).If I have no luck with it I'll book it in...last thing I want is to be stuck outside somewhere with an overheating motor

Thanks for all the help guys appreciate it

ah just the anode yup just replace it they need replacing at certain service intervals anyway