Guest Guest123456789 Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) Hi Raiders, Just rigged up my live bait tank and want to share how it went. Parts: Waeco 33lhard cooler. $105 (I negotiated 30% off). Johnson 350gph live bait kit (pump, aerator and cables). $60 12volt cigarette lighter power inlet and adapter. $12 Battery o rings and 50cm marine grade tinned cable. $12 Screws $5 So total cost about $200 Tested it in garage, she works great absolutely pumps out water and the noise from the pump is well contained. Happy to get rid of the alligator clips, the thought of taking the battery cover off and clipping into battery every time I wanted to start the bilge was not good. I'll road test it soon and see how it goes in the field. Might need to use my bailer to get clean water every so often. Hoping the inlet doesn't get clogged up. Edited August 15, 2016 by Guest123456789 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael.P Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 That looks really good Luke. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Thanks Michael I have used it a few times now - works great. As long as you change at bit of water after 90 mins and give the aerator head a clean it's keeps more than enough baitfish going for me. Also very quiet, irony think I'll ever mount the bilge to the outside transom. I may add a water inlet and outlet down the track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonD Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 (edited) Not wanting to put a downer on all your hard work but an aerator isn't as important as a continuos supply of clean water. One sick or bleeding fish will very quickly bring the whole tank down. Most bigger baits like yakkas and mackerel will find the corners a problem which soon stresses them out ending in dead fish. If you are just planning on poddy mullet for flathead then you should be ok as long as you keep the water changed. I do hope you prove me wrong but Ive been collecting and keeping fish for aquariums ( as well as live-baits) over the years and found trying to keep them healthy can be tricky in a setup such as yours. Just to add, I wouldn't be filling it to high as you will get a fair amount of spillage from the boat movement (especially under way). Jon Edited September 1, 2016 by JonD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Hi Jon, I've taken out out a few times now so happy to report the results. Kept 6 yakkas alive all day. Also kept three legal tailor going for three hours. You're right, the scales do clog up the aerator. And you're also right about the need to change out the water it does get manky. You're wrong about spillage, the newer eskys have rubber seals and straps which stop water from escaping. In fact I filled it up and turned it upside down and it was water tight. I change out the water every hour with three or four scoops of the bailer. Also clean the aerator nozzle. I may add a water inlet/outlet and scoop down the track but doubt I'll ever mount the pump on the transom. Thing makes a bloody racket and my boat is a stealth boat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonD Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Hi Jon, I've taken out out a few times now so happy to report the results. Kept 6 yakkas alive all day. Also kept three legal tailor going for three hours. You're right, the scales do clog up the aerator. And you're also right about the need to change out the water it does get manky. You're wrong about spillage, the newer eskys have rubber seals and straps which stop water from escaping. In fact I filled it up and turned it upside down and it was water tight. I change out the water every hour with three or four scoops of the bailer. Also clean the aerator nozzle. I may add a water inlet/outlet and scoop down the track but doubt I'll ever mount the pump on the transom. Thing makes a bloody racket and my boat is a stealth boat. That's good news, forgot how well those boxes are sealed. Slimies are much tougher if you get any and squid can really make a mess inside bait tanks, they also seem to block everything with slime. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 I don't use squid for live bait I eat them. And slimys won't fit in my LBT so those wil be used as strips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Not wanting to put a downer on all your hard work but an aerator isn't as important as a continuos supply of clean water. One sick or bleeding fish will very quickly bring the whole tank down. Most bigger baits like yakkas and mackerel will find the corners a problem which soon stresses them out ending in dead fish. If you are just planning on poddy mullet for flathead then you should be ok as long as you keep the water changed. I do hope you prove me wrong but Ive been collecting and keeping fish for aquariums ( as well as live-baits) over the years and found trying to keep them healthy can be tricky in a setup such as yours. Just to add, I wouldn't be filling it to high as you will get a fair amount of spillage from the boat movement (especially under way). Jon Hi Jon,I decided to change the setup in a way like you described. I installed a water scoop, move the bilge outside of the transom and installed an inlet and two outlets. Being my first attempt no doubt I've made some errors which I'll have to fix. Thanks for your input. Here are some pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) Tested the live bait tank. Works great except for two minor issues: *when I turn off the bilge pump the tank drains (uphill somehow!). * the mesh outlet covers restrict the flow of water too much. Problem solved once removed. Might try some old flyscreen I have. Overall very please with it. Not only is it a very insulated live bait tank it is also a kill tank and casting platform I can stand on. It's better than one of those plastic ones you see at shops I think and costs less. Very satisfying- recommend giving your next live bait tank install a go! Edited October 18, 2016 by Guest123456789 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welster Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) It's not clear in the pic but on the inlet does it extend down to the bottom of the tank. If it does it is probably self syphoning from the tank back down the inlet line. If that's the case you need a small hole in the inlet pipe at the top inside in the tank. Put it on the side a bit so the water doesn't spray up when it's running. The hole only has to be tiny the air in the line prevents syphoning. Edited October 18, 2016 by welst Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) Hi Welst, Thanks for your suggested solution there. I just googled self siphoning. That's right the inlet is at the bottom of the tank. Because of this, it will be underwater, a hole won't let air in, would it still work? I was going to install a one way tap just above the bilge pump, would that work to stop the tank draining when I isolate the bilge pump? Edited October 18, 2016 by Guest123456789 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozza_b Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 That would work but it means you have to remember to isolate and de-isolate the valve every time you use the pump, you could just install a one way valve somewhere above the pump that way you never have to worry about isolating the pump and the water cant flow back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Thanks Rozza, The only thing at the local Bunnings that could work as a one way valve was this https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-15mm-rough-brass-t-head-stop-cock-f-f_p4790303 I think it will need to be upright to work properly so I might install it attached directly to the tank. Do you think that will work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Here is what I ended up doing. That brass valve only lets water flow one way, into the tank. Fingers crossed it works and doesn't affect my water pressure too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welster Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Hi Welst, Thanks for your suggested solution there. I just googled self siphoning. That's right the inlet is at the bottom of the tank. Because of this, it will be underwater, a hole won't let air in, would it still work? I was going to install a one way tap just above the bilge pump, would that work to stop the tank draining when I isolate the bilge pump? I originally thought the fittings at the top were an inlet and outlet. I get it now they are both outlets with the inlet at the bottom. If your valve works that's great. Otherwise I'd move the inlet to the top and plumb it to the bottom internally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beats workin Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Hey mate Unfortunatly that valve yoy put in is an isolation valve designed to turn the water on or off.If you google non return valve that will solve your problem its a lot better if you get a plastic one as well they seem to handle the salt a lot better. Good luck ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) Thanks beats workin, the one I bought is a non return valve (I couldn't find it one Bunnings website). It has an arrow on the side, you can blow air through one side but not the other. I hope it works......... Edited October 21, 2016 by Guest123456789 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Tested it on the weekend. Works a treat! Non return valve stops water flowing back up the inlet yet doesn't inhibit the flow. 360gph is perfect, tank completely fills every 60 seconds or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Removed the old aerator pipe and replaced it with a ball valve. Can anyone tell me if I isolate the water above the bilge pump, will the pressure created potentially damage the pump? I'm hoping it will just stop water from travelling up the inlet to the tank when I want to use the live bait tank as an esky instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welster Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 1 hour ago, flatheadluke said: Removed the old aerator pipe and replaced it with a ball valve. Can anyone tell me if I isolate the water above the bilge pump, will the pressure created potentially damage the pump? I'm hoping it will just stop water from travelling up the inlet to the tank when I want to use the live bait tank as an esky instead. No problem at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest123456789 Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Phew thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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