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garfield28

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Posts posted by garfield28

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    Hi Issue,  thanks for the reply mate. I cannot look at the boat on my phone for some reason, I'm away with the family on a holiday but will hopefully be able to look at it when I get back home on the computer. 

    Is the electrolysis being caused by something wrong in the boat build? A bloke from work said he believes the Savage Scorpion with its build would be less susceptible to electrolysis because of the way it is built. He did mention something on the way it was rolled and welded or something can't remember exactly what it was now but he thought the Savage would be less chance. 

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    51 minutes ago, onearmedfisho said:

    The Savage Scorpion use the Ultra Lift Hull

    Ultra lift hull.jpg

    Thanks for that. 

    Are thier hulls any good? I couldn't even find bay hull info from Savage on any Google searches. 

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    5 hours ago, onearmedfisho said:

    yes mate Savage, Stacer, Quintrex and now Yellow fin plate boats all come out of the telwater factory in QLD along with their trailers

    Thanks for that. 

    I cannot find anything on the Savage Scorpion Hull, are they anything like the Revolution or Blade Hull seeing they come out of the same place? 

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    23 minutes ago, New Signing said:

    The old man has the 449 side console stacer and its a cracking little boat to fish out of. He has a 50hp Evinrude on his and it tops out at around 20-22knots. If you're looking to do longer runs it would definitely benefit from the 60hp

    Thanks heaps for the info new signing. 

    • Like 1

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    5 hours ago, Davison said:

    Quintrex do not bring in hulls from China. Telwater was doing that for a little while with the Savage 'glass range, but their bread and butter alloy hull range (Quintrex, Stacer) are still all Australian. Whether BRP who now own Telwater will push for an imported product down the track is anybody's guess. In relation to stitch welding, the top decks are stitch welded and you pay more to have it fully welded, which is a good idea if you want the paint to have the best chance over the long term. Agree it would be nice if they were fully welded as standard for the price you pay, although granted with the higher price you're also typically getting better resale value than the lesser known brands and a larger dealership network.  They're probably a bit like Toyotas - a little bit pricier than their lower cost Korean competitors but part of what you're paying for is that intangible quality of it being a Toyota and thus easy to sell down the track. The Renegades for example do very well in resale. Not sure you'd be as comfy selling an Anglapro or lesser known craft after a few years.

    Regarding Chinese builds, I believe Whittley has recently started importing Chinese alloy hulls. As long as they're keeping an eye on quality control, I'm sure they're a decent thing. The Chinese have well and truly demonstrated by now that they can produce very high quality items when they're not building purely to cost and there's some oversight. If it helps more people get into a newer brand name boat for less, it's not the worst thing in the world.

    Thanks for the reply Davidson. You sound like you know what you're talking about mate. Any knowledge on the Savage Scorpion at all? They look a nice rig from what I can see and a bit cheaper than the Stacers and the Quinnies, I think I read somewhere that either the hull or their trailers were built by telwater also. 

    I'm starting to wonder us I do cough up the extra money now for a bust over 4.8 in length after I went and sat in a 4.6 Renegade seems more than enough room in an open boat like that in a side console. 

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    Cheers for the reply Joe.

    Nice rig mate, can you please give me a ballpark figure on a rig like that?

    How does it sit at rest, spoke to a guy at work who has been on his mates and he wasn't real impressed by the stability of the Anglapro but he didn't say what model he Wason either. Also do they do a model with the offshore washwell ?

     

    I saw a Savage 455 Scorpion yesterday at the boat ramp and it also was a real nice looking rig... Anyone had a ride in one? Would be interested to hear how they ride etc.

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    1 hour ago, mii11x said:

    Thats interesting mate.  I thought that's why the cost of a Quintrex over my Brooker was justified.  I'm sure back in 2009 when I bought my Brooker, Quintrex had full welds, unlike my Brooker. I paid 18k for mine, same style and outboard in Quintrex or Stacer was about 7k more.

    Not that I have had any issues (touchwood), but I only use mine in estuaries and rivers.  

    I wonder how much extra it would cost to have it fully welded?

    I also read somewhere that Quintrex are shipping the hulls in from China and building the rest around it here. 

    Why would you pay extra for a Quintrex when the build is probably no better than any of its competitors..? 

    Are there any known boat builders out there that sell their boats with fully welded hulls?

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    12 hours ago, sydney south said:

    Nice boat..

     

    Was speaking to a bloke at work today and was told the Quintrex boats were only stitch welded not fully welded. He is looking at getting one but is paying extra to get it fully welded under the floor. For such an expensive boat it shocked me that they aren't done that way anyway. You have to pay extra to get it done. 

     

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    On 12/10/2019 at 2:45 PM, onearmedfisho said:

    I love my Horizon 485 Northerner with my Motor Guide Xi5 up the bow. No life jacket needed and very capable offshore

    485 Northerner 2.JPG

    Nice rig mate... is that your boat? 

     

    23 hours ago, sydney south said:

    I just bought a quintrex 510 frontier and my mate has a quintrex 481 top ender. Both great boats to fish from and are good on all types of water.

    Also have a look at the Clark range of boats.

    I was open minded to all the brands when looking.  But went to the quintrex again mainly for the resale value and I liked the new shape of the frontier.

    I also went the etec which is my second etec. I prefer these over the 4 strokes.

    You also get 10 years warranty on the boat, motor trailer package when you put an etec on a telwater product.

    Good luck with your purchase.

    I believe the Clark boats are a bit pricey too mate. I did have a bit of a look at them online and found they aren't really much cheaper - if any than the Quintrex or Stcaers 

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    Cancel that, just saw it in your stats. 

     

    How do you rate the Evinrude? I used to hear so many things about them, but of late nothing but praise. Was speaking with my uncle on the weekend and discovered he has an Etec on the back of his Quintrex bowrider boat and he loves it! He said it so fuel economic that it is rediculas. He was giving it a massive wrap!

     

    Thanks 

    Geoff 

    Hydrofoil help needed

    in Boating

    Posted

    I have one on my Merc Saltwater 125 that pushes a glass Savage 5.2m boat. When Scratchie come out with me he used to always say take that thing off as it seemed to make my boat cavitate haha when I would chat with him he'd say you take that silly thing off yet! So i did for a while, and I put it straight back on. I noticed that I couldn't get out of the hole as quick and on the plane, but also the fuel usage was very very noticeable! 

     

    I personally like it as I have noticed first hand the difference it makes to my boat, but some very knowledgeable fisho's on this forum and would certainly take strong notice in what they say with their advice and would trust it over most. 

     

    good luck, there's nothing worse than the boat struggling to get up and going.

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    2 hours ago, mii11x said:

    Well you must love your extended family more than me mate hahaha.  Something larger to accomoadte them a few times a year to me isnt worth the expense.  And if they are anything like my family and/or mates, when i bought mine everyone said I'll come out with you......i have one regular fishing mate, only 1 member of my 40 person extended family has come out once, and most of my mates have never come out....thats in 10 years!

    Personally, I don't see why you're thay concerned about the pfd rule, no different to putting a seatbelt on is it.

    I understand what you are saying mate, and to be honest it doesn't happen all that often but would like the extra length for when it does. 

    I'd also really like it to have the bigger outboard, I'd really like the power there when I want it. 

     

    41 minutes ago, Berleyguts said:

    I think the Stacers have their own hull design but I’m sure they perform similarly. I find it very stable at rest.

    I've read they're very similar. Is it a dry ride, and how do you rate it in a bit of slop if you've taken it outside in any Baz? 

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    14 hours ago, mii11x said:

    I havnt priced them (sniper or bandit), can I ask if you have....what is the difference between the 4.5 and 4.8.  And what outboard size have you priced them with if you have?

    Thanks heaps for the reply mii11x

    The main reason I was looking at the 4.8 as against anything smaller was mainly the life jacket rule. I have a lot of family in Sydney and the bigger boat would allow me to take more on boat too if I were to have a few visit at once. 

     

    Outboard I'd really like something around 75 - 90 in a 4 stroke 

    13 hours ago, Berleyguts said:

    I can’t speak for the AnglerPro but I have a Stacer Outlaw 449 (4.5m) side console and am very happy with it. I originally wanted a 4.8m boat or longer for the PFD issue but, honestly, it is 2nd nature now to wear my auto inflatable PFD. The 4.5m length suits me to a tee and handles conditions offshore with ease. If you need the extra 0.3m.

    If you’re ever up in Port Stephens, I’m happy to take you out for a ride in mine, if you like. (Might be a reason I can give the missus so I can go fishing!😂

    Thanks for the reply Baz.

     

    Mate I live in Port Stephens myself so anytime we could tee it up I could make it but I work through the week and you through the weekends. 

    Are they the same hull as the renegades Baz? Are they stable at rest also? 

     

    Thanks

    Geoff 

    Anglapro boats

    in Boating

    Posted

    Hi all,

    Just wondering if anyone here owns or knows much about the anglapro boats at all? 

    I'm all but made up my mind that I'd like a new rig to fish on. As stated here in the past my boat is just too big and heavy to launch and retrieve on my own, and I find now that unless it's a fairly reasonable day outside I'd rather fish the bay or rivers anyway. I don't get out much on my boat at present as I find I go alone a lot and just cannot be bothered wrestling with it back at the ramp and also my trailer is dog sh@t and I'm over it. 

    I was at one stage thinking of getting a formosa centre cab as they look a really nice rig and I've heard good things about them but they are quite pricey and out of reach realistically. Also after fishing on a Quintrex Top Ender side console a while back that was decked out with an electric motor and great storage under the floor compartments, Ive made my mind up that a side console open boat, with electric motor is the way I'd love to go. They are just so practical and so bloody enjoyable to fish from. I understand now that fishing with an electric is a game changer. To be able to pull up and fish a Rockwall all the way down, or hover over a school of bait without having to lug the anchor over board is so much quicker and more effective. 

    The only problem now is which one and which size. There's so many lovely looking open boats on the market that it makes it super hard on which one to choose. I love the renegades but they are so pricey! I like the looks if the Stacer outlaw but wonder if it is as dry and soft a ride as the renegade, but they seem pretty pricey too. Today I stumbled across Anglapro boats and from what I can see they look magnificent and a few K cheaper than the others, but would love some feedback on them as I wasn't able to find too much on the internet tonight. 

    I'm also wondering do I go something over 4.8 long so that I don't fall into the category of having the life jacket restrictions placed on me, but I can save a bit more coin if I were to go one around that 4.6 - 4.7 mark. 

     

    Ideally I'd love to still be able to run outside in half decent conditions when the snapper are on the bite too. 

     

    From what I could see, the Anglapro 4.84 bandit looks a weapon, but as I say not much on them that I could find on Google or reviews, and I wonder if their hulls provide a close match for the millennium blade hull or the Stacer hull with a dry soft ride.

     

    Thanks heaps in advance

    Geoff

    Flathead

    in Fishing Chat

    Posted

    Hey Raiders,

     

    Just a general question on flatties, if you see the lays in the sand on the low tide would that suggest that you would fish the run out tide - or best on the high tide? I've found a spot and where there must have been 20 - 30 flathead lying in the sand but I fished near the bottom of the low tide without a touch, so if I were to go back at the right time just wondering when do you think that might be on the evidence that they were there?

    Thanks 

    Geoff 

    Electrical problem

    in Boating

    Posted

    23 hours ago, dunc333 said:

    brand of radio as raging said please to help vy keyboard

     

    Mate I looked and cannot find any info online for it.

    23 hours ago, raging said:

    “Response precision” - my Google fu couldn’t find an online manual for it.

    Yeah I couldn't find anything at all for it either

    21 hours ago, sydney south said:

    What are the voltages on each of the batteries.

    You may not be getting the required voltage from one battery alone.

    I've only just got home from work, and I don't have a working multi meter to check right now, but I am hopeful I might be able to get away early enough tomorrow night so I can go buy another and check. In any case I have thrown the battery charger on one of the batteries tonight and will charger the other tomorrow when I get home. 

    17 hours ago, zmk1962 said:

    Hey Geoff and HEY RAIDERS - apologies it's been a long time between posts for me - work / life  have kept me way too busy .... Sam called out to me in on this one so here's my attempt.

    Geoff, from what you describe I suspect you have at least two problems in the wiring. 

    As background information, radios are prone to static from running motors, bilge pumps etc and one way of minimising that is to separate radio wiring from the other stuff by hard wiring the radio positive and negative supply directly to the  battery terminals. So if you previously had only one battery it may have been wired that way especially if there was no suppressor installed in the circuit. If you then replaced your circuit wire for wire, but introduced another battery and the battery switch, you may well have ended up with the radio positive attached to one battery and with no negative wire  connection from the radio back to that same battery.

    Let my try and explain with the diagram below which shows a typical 2 battery wiring set up:

    image.png.23cf5895fdfecf60dbdaf40baa71d039.png

    Battery switch 2 = STBD, Battery switch 1 = PORT,

    NOTE the green connection between the batteries negative terminals - do you have that cross connection in your new wiring??

    You would recreate the radio on/off behaviour that you are observing, if :

    1. you are missing the negative cross connection joining the two  batteries negatives. In that case the fuse panel negative is really only connected to one battery negative, and
    2. the radio is hard wired to run off the positive of the other battery.  To complete a circuit the radio positive and negative must somehow connect back to the positive and negative of the same battery.  

    Here is the logic:

    1. Assume Negative to fuse block (distribution panel) comes from STBD battery 2 as shown in the diagram (green arrow down), and also assume there is no cross connection to PORT battery 1 negative (and hence no negative to the fuse block from the PORT battery 1).

    2. Assume Radio is hard wired to PORT battery positive or to switch pole marked 1.

    3. When you switch to STBD battery 2 , the radio has positive from 1 but no negative from battery 1 does not work.

    4. When you switch to PORT battery 1 , the radio has positive from 1 but no negative from battery 1 does not work.

    5. When you switch to BOTH, the radio has positive from 1 connected to positive 2 AND the negative from battery 2 hence it completes the circuit with battery 2 and works !

    -----------------------------

    Now that leaves the question of why do the lights and the other stuff work? I can't see in your original description above how you have connected the negative wires for all of those devices. Did you replace all the negative wires with one thick negative from the battery to the fuse box? If not, and you replaced wire for wire,  I suspect as they head back some of the wires connect to one battery and some to the other - and somewhere in between they are cross connected (maybe daisy chained off a device negative terminal).  This would explain why these devices work, but it may be problematic as the cross connection may be through a very thin wire which is carrying the combined current flow when you are running off that specific battery.

    I also suspect the radio's negative was kept out of this connection to keep it isolated as per the original wiring  but now you have connected this wire to a point which only takes negative supply from one battery.

    Could you please confirm, 1) if you have the battery negative terminals cross connected and 2) if you replaced all the negatives with one larger diameter cable or wire for wire where they stood..

    Also I would recommend you draw up a sketch of how your positive wires run from each device (light, radio, bilge etc)  back through the fuse box , through the switch to the batteries. And the same for the negative wires (negatives should be easier as they do not have fuses or go through switches).   You are looking to make sure that each device has a positive and negative path back to the same battery you are selecting to run from.

    Anyway, bit of a long rambling answer late at night but hope this helps.

    Cheers

    Zoran

     

     

     

     

     

    Wow Zoran! Thanks for the write up! That is going way out of your way for a fellow member, so I really appreciate that mate.  

    I think I know what you are saying in the diagram above... I'm not the best with this type of stuff.

    Here is what I did though

    I added one of these https://www.jaycar.com.au/12-way-fuse-block-with-bus-bar/p/SZ2032 which I used to connect my stereo, and marine radios to, and I connected that with some thicker gauge wire than I had, directly to my dual battery switch. I used one of these https://www.jaycar.com.au/marine-switch-panels-with-circuit-breakers/p/SZ1902 which I connected a positive and a negative wire from the fuse block to the switch, which has my nav lights, cabin lights, bilges connected to it. 

    DO you think I should wire the stereo directly to the battery Zoran? 

    13 hours ago, big Neil said:

    All I want to say is "TOP STUFF" to everyone who has offered help, especially Zoran. Great reply! Hope you sort the problem Geoff and get back on the water with confidence in your vessel's wiring. bn

    That's why I love this forum community BN.

    Thanks mate, hopefully get it sorted as this is the only thing that is causing me problems at this moment, and it is the reason I wanted to fix up my wiring so I didn't have any dramas with it. 

    Electrical problem

    in Boating

    Posted

    5 minutes ago, raging said:

    You won’t get that sort of voltage unless the engine is running. What stereo is it? 

    Does the stereo work on one battery while your motor is running(flushing etc)

    Mate its actually this one from Jaycar https://www.jaycar.com.au/marine-am-fm-radio-with-mp3-player/p/QM3815

    I haven't tried it on one battery while running, but surely they wouldn't only operate on 2 batteries running at the same time would it? 

    5 minutes ago, dunc333 said:

    it should be good on the 12v circut you have its just a trial of limitaion to you find the fault

     

    I hope so, I don't want to have to have it running on 2 batteries only

    Electrical problem

    in Boating

    Posted

    11 minutes ago, raging said:

    Got a multimeter? Measure the voltage on the radio terminals on each battery setting.

    From what you’ve said above, as everything adjacent on the fuse block is working could be both batteries could be weak. 

    What’s the radio earthed to?

    Hey mate, cheers for the reply. 

     

    Yeah the weird thing is that I can turn on my nav lights, my cabin lights and also my bilge and live bait bilge all at the same time and there was no dramas with the batteries in that sense... but I'll definitely give that a crack though. 

    The neutral wire is connected to the negative part of the fuse block mate. 

    4 minutes ago, dunc333 said:

    mate thats fu  k g weird . is the radio coming off the bus .to me sounds like a radio issue if everything working or your battery switch set up is crossed (setup wrong) check you are getting 12 volt a radio not 24 v  with multi meter

    cheers dunc333

    Yeah sure is mate. Yeah I'll whack the multi meter on it tomorrow when I get home. 

    I read the book that came with the stereo and it says operating power required is 13.8v not sure if that changes anything though. 

    Electrical problem

    in Boating

    Posted

    G'day all,

     

    I have just neatened up the wiring in my boat as it was long over due and also replaced a heap of copper wire that was corroded and not tinned for marine use. 

    So finished the job up yesterday and looks grouse compared to how it looked before, I also now have the piece of mind that all wiring in my boat is now tinned copper wire and not corroded.

    So with everything now wired to a fuse block, and also fused switches the moment of truth was to connect the batteries back up and test all of the gadgets were working. With fingers and toes crossed much to my delight everything worked fine except for my stereo. All of my cabin lights, nav lights, bilge etc are wired through a fused switch panel and all of that works great, other things like the stereo, my marine radios are wired directly into and out of the fuse block and all that is connected works fine except my radio. So I looked to see if I blew a fuse while doing the job on the stereo, but the fuse is fine and all wires appear to be all good too.

    I have a dual battery set up and I have one brand new marine battery (a couple of weeks old) that has barely even been used, so I switched the switch to battery 1 and stereo indicates no power as there is no flashing LCD screen. Switch to battery 2 and same thing no power indicated on the LCD. I switched it to both and the stereo was flashing the time on the LCD screen and started working no problems. While the music was blaring I switched the battery to 1 again and it turned off straight away, same as when I switched it to battery 2 while using it no problems with the switch turned to both.

    Would anyone with some electrical knowledge be able to please tell me what it might be? I'd love to know why it won't work on either battery being used single, but works when the batteries are both on together. 

    Very confused, and would appreciate and ideas as to why this might be happening. 

    Thanks 

    Geoff 

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