Rob81
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Posts posted by Rob81
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You can probably look into telescopic type landing nets. You wouldn't use it in the traditional way of metal handle nets, you need to lift the fish vertically (or there is a chance you will snap the handle). With telescopic nets, you can have a longer handle, and is typically light compared to fixed length nets.
There are ISO fishing type nets, but can be pricey and most of them are really long, but I have seen a few shorter ones around I was considering for the same reason. Also, those type of nets, a lot of them fold in (like example image), so during travel or non-use, it is more mobile.
Again, these can be pricey and its not for everyone.
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I had to explain the same a number of years back as well. To them a rod and reel is just a rod and reel. I explained different combinations for different species in different environments (not really one size fits all type of thing). I no longer have backups to lend people like I used too, so that reduced it a little.
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Thats a girdled parma. They dont grow to big. I've seen them here and there, mainly by fishermen chasing drummer or luderick.
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Vanford should be considered an upgrade from your Stradic Ci4+. Its smoother and lighter and has a little more protection against water than the Stradic Ci4+. Its kind of an inbetween reel of the stradic Ci4+ and a Vanquish (reel not released by Shimano AU).
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Used to do that way back. I find sometimes if you get a bit of salt water in the box without realising, it'll rust easily, and that just spreads onto the hooks and so forth. Now I just use a type of fly fishing box, where the hooks just fit the compartments and don't move out of its position. Also less chances of hooking myself
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Reel sounds a little light. I think 6k gosa you'd run PE3. Ideally you the PE scales gives you an idea of what you can match with.
So a PE4, you'd most likely run an 8k gosa to go with a PE4 rod.
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FYI: There's 2 at Eastwood, however one of them also have one at Croydon. If that's close to yourself.
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For the species you mentioned, you can look into ISO rods. But they can get pretty pricey. Typically in the form of telescopic rods, however, to properly use them, it is very technical. All comes down to environment and conditions of water, which would then determine the type of line and the weight of floats you use, and in some cases how you actual rig up).
You can use a small normal reel with them if you do not want to use proper ISO reels (LBD Reels: Lever Brake Drag Reels).
Its a very successful technique of fishing, but too technical for me. I just enjoy fishing without the aid of a table to work out what I need to do to catch fish, so I don't know too much about it but I'm sure someone in this forum might know.
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Depends on the type of metal. You have ones for jigging and ones for just casting and straight retrieve. For the species you mentioned, they work well, but at the same time, those species tend to be seasonal.
Species I commonly get with metals: Tailors, Bonito, Watsons Leaping Bonito, Sergeant Bakers. Kingfish you get, but for me, personally I dont get commonly. So in saying that you can get kingfish with them.
One time, I somehow got a octopus as well, got me on the drop after casting, I thought I snagged on some floating weed.
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20 hours ago, zmk1962 said:
I too am not a fan of lock out zones.
@Rob81 you are thinking exactly along the lines that I am. But I feel "conditional" signs while providing very valuable information will out of necessity be very verbose. Personally I think the verbose signs in many languages rarely get read - especially in the heat of the moment when someone doesn't want to miss out on their spot on the ledge.
I think the warning signs should bold and confronting ... make people pause and think, and perhaps read the more detailed signs. I was thinking something like this:
If you run out of years, print a sign for the next three years and attach next to it.
Cheers Zoran
There's only soo much you can do. At the end of the day, some people will go either way. What the signs will help do is market towards those that are willing to make a decision to not go based on information supplied to them.
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A lot of people will fish it irrelevant of fencing there or not. If you ban fishing there, they will just say its not patrolled so chances of getting caught are slim.
Rather than banning a location, why not put up signs with danger levels, like they do with some bush locations, with fire danger levels. That way, when they enter, they can see its in the red, so maybe find somewhere to fish. Currently, its only social media I see (on some pages), where, there is a serve warning to fishermen to not fish eastern coastline. However not everyone is on social media. Yes, these signs will cost money to not only put up and to update danger levels, but at least will help change the minds of considering heading out to the rock ledge. If a person continues to ignore the sign, well, theres not much to stop them, those people will go out irrelevant of being informed or not.
Not all fishermen are well educated in the dangers of some locations, at least this would help those who still cant work this out (or work out the obvious looking at the ledge). Those are just my thoughts and it probably wont save all lives as some will still go, but at least help those who have no idea that cherish their lives.
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wd40 removes corrosion as well. You can soak the section in and then get a toothbrush to brush it off.
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Yeah agree with the Europe thing. We had to do big update in the company I work at, even if they're already customers of yours. The main difference is, over here, you have to register to not be called, so by default, its ok to call you, whilst over there, default is do not call unless you have consent to do so.
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I hate to be the person to give the "Karen" comment, but you need to be aware that there are laws we must abide by when fishing. For one, if you get a puffer and keep it in a bucket to play with, it is fine, but if you catch a fish that has a legal size limit, they must be returned to the water immediately.
A fisheries officer can assume you plan on keeping it if you keep it in your bucket. At the end of the day, it is up to the fisheries officer and if you come across one. I understand, its just for your daughter to play with but those are the rules, but you wouldn't want to receive a fine over something little.
You can download an app called "Fishsmart NSW", which shows you the rules and size limits for fish. If the species is not on the list, then there is no size limited.
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Yeah took me about 4 years before an insurance company stopped calling me. It wasnt just one company, each time they called it was a new company. I think the problem is, when you tell them to add you to the list, they only do it internally and not at a higher level (as in country wide). But either way they can get into trouble for it, even if it is an overseas company as they're operating under our law still. But most people dont complain to the right authorities.
I remembered, I had to help set it up for a company I worked at, and the information came from our government.
I think its a semi broken process, so it is not full proof but worth a shot.
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For emails you should have an "Unsubscribe" option or a "Do not email", usually on the bottom of emails. For Calls, especially if its from some utility company or insurance, you can tell them not to call and remove you from register ("Do not call" Register).
Everyone else on calls, just block them on phone.
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That outfit sounds fine, should be able to achieve the action needed and light enough to sometimes feel the hit.
If you want to stick to shimanos for the reel, ideal would be around 2500-3000, but in saying that nothing wrong with a little over or under that I guess. In the Daiwas it would depends on reel, as their number sizing changed over the last year or so.
good luck tonight. I have gone for a quick one shot down around esplande a few years back, with no luck. Been meaning to try it again but probably later on. Waiting til theyre a little thicker than it is currently.
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Forgot to ask, what spin setup will you be running? Ideally it should be a light setup, you wont be able to cast on a heavy one. If you have SP setup, you can also use that.
Cheap or expensive, both will catch, just one brings a more enjoyment in the technique.
Both catch, both break, this whole just because you paid more means last longer is nothing to do with price and more on how you look after your gear.
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Go to kmart or big w, and also get a bunch of "Sacrificial Squid Jigs". These are just squid jigs bought as cheaply as possible, that you use to sacrifice, especially when you are landbased trying a new area.
Start off using the sacrificial jigs to see give you an idea of the terrain. its a snaggy area over there, off memory. After you have an idea of how shallow or deep a particular spot is, and also how snaggy, then use your normal jigs. This will cut your losses by alot. its expensive losing a yama and very annoying losing it on the first cast in a new area.
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Its quiet shallow. There is one or two particular jettys, off memory, that goes far out enough to get away from the seaweed, but most of them are in the thick of the weeds.
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Honestly, you're better off asking for a fish ID in this forum compared to facebook. Every fish is a tuna, marlin, shark or 3m flatty on facebook.
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My probably consist of similar amount of steps as Anthman... I think:
Step 1: Take Drag knob, spool & handle off reel. For rods, leave as separated pieces (if 2 piece rod)
Step 2: Use cloth with a little bit of dish washing liquid mixed with water (make sure cloth is not soaked), and wipe down all parts (avoid any openings or parts that have any grease/oil) (This is to remove any salts)
Step 3: Use a separate cloth, with just water on it this time, and wipe off soap from all the parts
Step 4: Use a third cloth, this time dry, and wipe down all parts mentioned above to dry off water
Step 5: put aside for air drying
Step 6 (optional step and depends on session, if reel got seriously wet or dunked):
Reels: apply single drop oil to line roller, inox spray joins around handle
Rod: apply bit of inox to kitchen paper and wipe down guides
Step 7: Once fully dry, put item back into where the belong
Ideally, I don't do it all at once but apply the above steps per piece of item. Step 6 is something I don't do often, but again, really depends on session. Some days are a little more exciting than others.
I find some ppl that like to constantly spray their reels, sometimes leaves behind a gunk residue in some places on their reels.
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JonD's technique would be the best way to do this. If you're measurements are just using the spool capacity numbers, if it says 250m of 20lb, then it wont work out. 20lb braid and 20lb mono would have a different thickness. The method of moving the line from spool to spool would take out the guess work or manual calculations of how much line of Mono you need.
Just be wary of too much line twist when doing this.
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If your off rocks, as suggested above, the kids pool or a large enough rock pool. easier to grab the fish again with aquarium net.
If you're off a wharf, and close to the water you can get a laundry basket, and zip tie a pool noodle around it to keep it afloat and just put the yakkas in there (easy to get yakkas in and out). Just be wary of the size of the holes. You wont have a need to change water. Also you keeper net isnt too bad as well, so all depends on what your willing to lug.
Carrying landing net and staying mobile when landbased
in Fishing Chat
Posted · Edited by Rob81
I guess for holding the net, you could buy straps, such as these:
The other option, would be a rod holder, that go onto a belt (ideally for short length handle nets):
Rod holder would only be, if the diameter of the handle would fit in those.
And then there's this item, its more for the autoking squid gaff but looks like you can repurpose it for similar use: