wttmrwolf
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Posts posted by wttmrwolf
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1996 Haines Hunter with Evinrude 115HP (only 140 hours on the clock). Go you good thing.
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Hi, for a start your starting procedure is wrong. Pushing the ket in and holding for 8 seconds will do nothing. Every time you push the key in the choke primer richens the fuel mixture, holding it in does nothing. On cold starts with your engine, you want to prime the bulb till it goes hard, turn key on and push the key in once and crank, when the engine fires you can rev up with the cold start lever, but with your engine it has "quickstart" and it advances the timing until the engine reaches temp (hopefully someone has checked the thermostats and the engine is reaching correct temp).
Hi Huey,
I might have to pay you for your time if we can catch up on the Hawksbury. Thanks for the offer. So let me quickly get one thing straight. You say that I don't have the start proceedure correct.
I was told to turn the key 1/4 turn. Wait for the 4 engine checks to complete (lights go off and beep sounds). Push in the key for 8 seconds then turn the key the remaining 1/4 turn. After engine starts release key and in theory engine will keep running. The mechanic told me the 8 seconds press in richens the fuel mix essentially the same as a choke. Maybe my start proceedure is flooding the engine???
You said to push the key in once and crank - Do I turn the key 1/4 turn then push in? How long do I push the key in for?
Rev up with the cold start lever - do I put the engine in neutral and push the throttle forward to increase the revs? Assuming the "quickstart" doesn't do its job
Honestly it sounds like I need you to check it out but I want to give it one more shot this weekend. Hoping to get out on the water and enjoy the sunhine with my kids.
Thanks again.
BEn
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Thanks Jig,
Only problem is I'm working off a Mac and all the related card reading software is windows only.
So i thought ide ask incase there was an easy way to view, without having to
buy or setup a Mac to PC conversion program on my home Mac.
Looks like its the only way to go though. Can anybody recommend a good reliable
Mac to PC conversion program? Preferably a free download.
Allen
I use Parallels to setup virtual windows on my Mac. Then I run digiboat (google it).
Most trips I run this on my laptop in the cabin. $100 gets you a GPS receiver.
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Hi all,
my 30hp Honda cuts out at idle....it runs okay at anything above idle but eventually runs out of petrol at idle. (Unless I keep pumping the primer). I have checked the valves and fuel lines and can;t find any leak. Tank is full of petrol. Any suggestions????
I've got the same problem, more info on this thread.
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Hi Mr Wolf, we use genuine OMC (now BRP) vaccum and pressure gauges to test gearboxes and VROs-we have had them over 20 years. They are expensive and you will see there is part numbers for them in your manual when you get it. For a home tech I would not be saying to rush out and buy these, but an in line fuel pressure gauge are not that dear from Repco or the like and worth having. Are you seeing fuel starvation problems above idle?
I was concerned the service parts could be costly. Repco is a great idea, thanks. Since you asked about the actual problem here is a more detailed description. Maybe you can point me in the general direction or at least tell me what the problem is not.
So to start at the beginning.
Evinrude 115HP 2 stroke 1996 - 97 140 hours on the clock. Well maintained, all cylinders have been compression checked and tested fine. Full service with impeller housing replaced due to some mild corrosion, fuel line and bulb replaced to try and resolve stalling issues.
Prior to the most recent service I started having problems.
Symptoms - would not keep running after initial startup. Followed standard start routine, 1/4 turn of key, hold in 8 seconds, then full turn. After 5 seconds motor would blow lots of white smoke, shake and stall. It was possible after a few attempts to get it idling for 30 seconds before stall. Fuel bulb would go soft, if the engine was revved in idle it would increase in speed then just loose power and stall. Eventually got it running after about 10 minutes and 20 attempts. Reving the shit out it seems to clear the engine and it would start to run smoothly. If the engine was warm no problem starting and at speed ran at 100%. If allowed to cool problems starting and keeping running returned.
After service.
Mechanice from BRP replaced fuel lines and bulb. Tuned engine and did basic scheduled service. Told me if I was still having problems the fuel pump might need replacing. Not sure if problem starting was air leak, rich oil mix or pump. On startup no smoke anymore. Starts first go everytime. However only runs for 30 seconds if not put in gear or reved. Bulb needs 1 pump by hand to get hard again. Only stalls when idling hot or cold. At higher throttles runs perfectly. Seems to be a slightly different problem to last time or at least the smoking has stopped. Maybe there were 2 problems and 1 has been fixed. Still sounds rough when idling. To the untrained it looks like not all cylinders are firing.
That kind of sums it all up. I must say it seems to start every single time now, even cold, I just need to get it in gear and underway quickly. I'd be very interested to hear what your opinion is on this issue.
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From what you are saying, it sounds like a simple mixture (air:Fuel) problem and by removing the air box cover you can adjust the idle mixture screws if they or you have the correct tools. If the engine is a touch too lean it will "sneeze" and stall and it takes about 5 minutes to make right. I would be looking for another place or get yourself a genuine manual and not that hard to do yourself.
Funny you say that. I just ordered a service manual since I figured its worth getting to know how to service outboards myself. I figured an inline pressure gauge could be one of the first tools to put in my arsenal.
You mentioned a vacuum gauge. Any idea where I can start buying some of these specialised tools?
Mr Wolf.
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Hi Folks,
I have a 1996 Evinrude 115HP with only 140 hours on the clock. The damn thing stalls after its been idling for about 30 seconds. If I fast idle or get underway I don't have any issues.
The mechanic is suggesting I replace the fuel pump but since its a VRO model it will be a costly experiment.
I'm thinking of putting a fuel pressure gauge inline to see if the pump is creating enough pressure before I replace the fuel pump. I'm worried it could be a simple air leak.
Can anyone point me to where I can purchase a fuel pressure gauge that I can put inline to test the back pressure?
I found a few pressure gauges but they aren't inline.
Any tips welcome. Thanks
Mrwolf
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Thanks for all the tips Trojan. We all had a good time and learnt heaps while staying relatively safe (calm offshore conditions yesterday). Its interesting to see how different freeing an anchor can be with lots more rope out in the water. I've never had a problem in shallower water. I'll definately take your advice on the sea anchor until we can get some more practice in.
Happy fishing, thanks again for the feedback.
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Interesting day out on the water yesterday in our 5.2m Haines Hunter. No fish to report but a few stories to tell. Felt a bit like amateurs but it was our first offshore adventure so didn't expect too much on the fish front.
We started at Balmoral at 5:30am to catch some yakka. Boatloads of yakka but they didn't seem to be striking anything with a hook in it (squid, pilly, bread, jig). It was frustrating having hundreds within reach, only got 4 up into the live bait tank. And no, you can't catch yakka with a net
Here are the GPS marks I refer to:
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&...mp;t=h&z=12
Headed straight out to North Head East. Nothing on the fish finder so onto the next GPS mark. NE 2 nautical miles to The Whale. There appeared to be a 8m gully about 100m wide. Threw in a yakka and soaked some pillies. No bites after 1 hour so onto the next mark.
Sydney FAD -33° 47' 1.30", +151° 22' 42.00"
No sign of the FAD but there seemed to be lots of bait fish and some larger species showing on the sonar.
Got a burley trail going and started drifting pillys into the trail. Also had the yakka's in the water.
We hooked a couple of Snooks and that was it! Lots of dolphins circling so at least there was some signs of life out there.
The real fun was occuring on our boat. The anchor got stuck 3 times and with 100m+ of rope out the back there was too much stretch in the rope to bend the pick anchor easily. The 3rd time we got the anchor stuck we managed to wrap the rope around the prop. Then the motor wouldn't start because of an air lock in the fuel line. A few tense moments and minus 1 anchor we were back underway.
The wind had picked up so it was back to north head to soak some more bait and use up the rest of our burley.
I'll attach the plot from where our anchor got stuck. Its pretty funny to see the course we had to take to get it free.
Couple of quick questions:
Where has the Sydney FAD gone?
Any tips for getting back anchors would be handy?
If there was one tip for catching fish outside what would it be?
Anyway we made if back and lived to tell the tale.
Until next time.
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i wouldnt have a clue how i will bolt the tank down i was just going to rely on the two people sitting in the back of the boat lol
Nice work gazza. I'm not sure you will need to bolt it down. I've been using a plastic rubbish bin to hold live bait and bailing in water with a bucket. Not once has the bin even come close to tipping over. You would have to do something pretty scary to throw it over. I think the water would be the least of your worries. Getting your heart out of your throat might be more of a concern
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just install a one way valve
So those things actually work
I'm game, lets see if those little one way valves work.
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......i already have a bilge hole with a fitting in the side of my boat i will be running the overflow thru this fitting and disconnecting my bilge pump i am a great wuss anyway so i doubt water will be coming into my boat i shit my self when in sydney harbour in my previous owned boats so ill be taking it easy
I have the same bilge in my boat with a fitting at the side. I was going to put a T junction in the bilge hose so I could use the same outlet for waste bait tank water and bilge water.
I was going to raise the bilge hose so the T is below the top of the hose. That way the bait tank waste won't run down and out the wrong end of the bilge. Great way to flood my boat. Not sure if this is wise but worth a shot and prevents me having to drill a seperate outlet AND I get to keep my bilge working.
Just a thought
I'll add to that as well. Any hole through a hull should also have a suitable wooden or plastic cone wedge / plug on a cord at the fitting ......
only put through hull fittings where you can access them and later on change pipes over .......
Use clamps ( not zip ties or rely on plastic barbs) and UV / petrol proof tubing as well as it can deteriorate fast if you don't keep an eye on it......
All invaluable advice, thanks heaps pelican. Do you have any photos of your live bait tank setup?
.... if you are going to drill a hole thru the hull make sure you fit a seacock in the pick-up to allow you to stop the boat filling with water if a hose breaks or the like. Also in the picture with the thru hull fitting and elbow that is too close to the centreline of the boat and will cause issues blocking water flow to the outboard......
Great advice, we could write a book dedicated to live bait tank setup. I might put a dedicated page together on the web when I get mine all setup.
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this is my setup i brought the 65L drum off of a well known auction site the seller is in blacktown so i picked it up an hour after winning the auction $20 for the drum not bad at all and perfect size for boats!!! today i went shopping and i couldnt pass up the johnson bilge pump that was on special for $15 i also got a metal scoop with the extended peice of tube to connect a hose the scoop takes 12-13mm hose so its avaliable anywhere i also brought 2x 19mm fittings one is for the water inlet the other as a over flow wttmrwolf u can copy how im doing it if u like? i will have pictures as i go also if u want me to link u directly to the guys i broguht the stuff from send me a PM all up its cost me under $100
Nice work gazza! So you are connecting the hose directly to the scoop then placing the bilge inside the boat near the live bait tank? I like that idea. Probably looks better than the bilge on the outside under water.
Really keen to see the photos when its setup.
Have you worked out if you are going to put the inlet at the bottom and the outlet at the top? Apparently thats the best way to circulate the water. I think I can put the inlet at the bottom if I loop the hose up above the top of the bait tank water line (otherwise the water will drain back out via the inlet).
Go for gold.
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dont drill a hole in your hull just run the hoses up over the transom if the hoses are small enough run them thru the steering hole if not just run them up into the back of the boat just make sure your over flow is higher than the hoses so the water will flow back thru and not flood your boat this is how im doing mine
Gazza - after some reading and reflection I'm going with your idea of putting the pump on the outside. I like the idea of running the hoses in through the steering hole. I think there is enough room next to the fuel lines on my boat.
I don't know what I was thinking, no point drilling holes in transom just for the sake of looks. Plus it would have been a nightmare to service the pump or adjust the flow rate since the transom is covered by a bench seat. If I have to do anything down there I'm practically standing on my head.
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Here is a link I found describing how to install a seacock 3/4".
Looks a little scary.
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I am doing the same, but I went to their opposition and got some good advice.
I am using a stainless steel intake that mounts below the hull. In forward motion the water
is forced into the tank, and relieved by a 32mm overflow at the top of the tank.
When at rest, a Bigle pump attached to the intake bracket will pump water into the tank, and again the pressure is releived by the overflow.
No need for the aerator, as the water is constantly changing.
I was under the impression I could use this kit in a similar fashion to what you describe. I was going to place the Johnson pump down in the transom area inside the boat. Drill a hole in the transom, attach a plastic elbow.
And just to be different attach a little plastic hose on the outside to pickup water when underway. See attached image. If you look at this thread someone mentions the potential disaster that could result from hitting a submerged object.
http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/inde...showtopic=26462
What I can't work out is if the Johnson Live Bait Tank kit includes a pump that could pump water up to the live baitwell.
My hassle is trying to drill / bore the 32mm hole required for the overflow.
I'm a bit curious about this drilling business as well. I drilled some small holes on the weekend to mount so switches and high speed drill bits worked a treat but a 32mm hole, mmmmmm????
My complete novice advice would be to start small and work your way up.
I'll be monitoring this tread over the coming weeks.
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Hi Fisho's,
I'm going to convert a bait storage bin at the back of my 5.2m Hains Hunter into a live bait tank.
I want to pump fresh sea water into the bin and I'm looking at a Whitworths live bait tank kit.
Can anyone tell me if this is a good option:
http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdeta...tAbsolutePage=1
Wttmrwolf
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Where are the best yakka grounds in Botany bay? We normally fish Sydney harbour so the bay is new territory for me.
Beachworming Cronulla
in Fishing Chat
Posted
Hi Folks,
I'm thinking of going beachworming on cronulla beach this week. The problem is I've never caught worms before. If anyone is heading out in early morning or after work can they PM me because I'd love to tag along to get some pointers.
Fingers crossed someone is planning on catching a few worms.
wttmrwolf