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Rods Used For Downrigging


Kruzenvax

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Hi all,

I'm considering (slowly) a downrigger; I haven't yet picked up the brand (I'm not vey familiar with the concept) but I'd appreciate an advice on what kind of rod should be used. Form different DVD's around it seems like people are using their "nornal" casting rods - I'd be happy to do so but - being loaded all the time - will it be bad for the blank? So should I buy a fiberglass rod - more suitable for bait fishing?

I hope I've explained the question clearly; apologies if not.

Thanks.

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Rod is not loaded. You have a seperate downrigger and stainless cable with a downrigger bomb on it. Your normal line from your normal rod is clipped to the tail of the downrigger bomb. When a fish strikes the clip releasesand hopefully your on.

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Thanks. So I was wrong assuming that the rod should be loaded anyway to set the hook when the line is released from the clip (seen it somewhere). OK, that solves the question, I can use my favourite rods anyway.

Thanks

Rod is not loaded. You have a seperate downrigger and stainless cable with a downrigger bomb on it. Your normal line from your normal rod is clipped to the tail of the downrigger bomb. When a fish strikes the clip releasesand hopefully your on.

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I thought he was referring to having the bomb weight on the main line - my error

When you say loaded do you mean having drag set and on and a bit of tension in the tip or do you mean strung like a guitar string?

Edited by pelican
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Sorry guys, as I was suspecting I didn't make myself clear. I've seen (watching DVD's) that when downrigging, people (after dropping the bomb and the bait to the depth) have drag set on their rods - in a way that makes the rod bend. Not having the bomb on the main rod, no.

I've also been told that this may not be good for graphite rods - hence the question - do I need to by fiberglass rods for trolling?

I thought he was referring to having the bomb weight on the main line - my error

When you say loaded do you mean having drag set and on and a bit of tension in the tip or do you mean strung like a guitar string?

Edited by Kruzenvax
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Your rod should be as loaded as possible however this won't be much or the release clip or rubber band will let go. I know in the US they use long soft rods but it's can be a real pain reaching out to grab the line so I just stick with my normal rod.

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We use a PE 6-8 jig rod for 'rigging. I reckon it's perfect. 100% crossweave carbon designed for very heavy drag settings & vertical lift - downrigging is vertical heavy drag fishing (if u want a chance @ landing the prize). So carbon rods are OK if and only if you choose the appropriate style! If $300+ is too much to spend - go glass.

Hope that helps with ur q's :biggrin2:

Jig

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PE is short for PolyEthylene

usually a number trails PE. ie PE6 PE8. the japanese usually use this to rate their gear. the number represents the diameter of the line. but because people other than the japanese don't know what it really represents, most have just assumed PE6 equals to 60lb or PE8 equals to 80lb.

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Thanks for that.

Never heard of them - will ask in my local tackle shop when I decide to go into jigging.

Alex

PE is short for PolyEthylene

usually a number trails PE. ie PE6 PE8. the japanese usually use this to rate their gear. the number represents the diameter of the line. but because people other than the japanese don't know what it really represents, most have just assumed PE6 equals to 60lb or PE8 equals to 80lb.

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G'day Kruzen,

I'm new to downrigging this season and one tip I'd already give you is not to use an overly long rod. I've run a 5'6" T-Curve jig rod and it was great to use. The last couple of trips I tried a 7' Saltist rod (with the idea it would be easier to lead fish around the boat) and found the extra length a real pain when rigging the downrigger bomb. Grabbing the line is harder, its wrapped around the tip easily, etc. while I've been rigging baits.

I'm not experienced enough to give much advice but I'm going to stick to 6' rods or less with the downrigger. Not sure what the more experienced downriggers reckon but I noticed a lot of your replies already talk about jig rods which tend to be on the shorter side.

Slinky

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Thanks Slinky,

I've never tried dr'ging before (actually going to the shop today to find out what downriggers they can provide - prefer ones that do not require drilling holes in thje boat) - so your experience is very valuable. Will be thinking about bying a not very expensive jigging rod now.

Cheers

Alex

G'day Kruzen,

I'm new to downrigging this season and one tip I'd already give you is not to use an overly long rod. I've run a 5'6" T-Curve jig rod and it was great to use. The last couple of trips I tried a 7' Saltist rod (with the idea it would be easier to lead fish around the boat) and found the extra length a real pain when rigging the downrigger bomb. Grabbing the line is harder, its wrapped around the tip easily, etc. while I've been rigging baits.

I'm not experienced enough to give much advice but I'm going to stick to 6' rods or less with the downrigger. Not sure what the more experienced downriggers reckon but I noticed a lot of your replies already talk about jig rods which tend to be on the shorter side.

Slinky

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PE is short for PolyEthylene

usually a number trails PE. ie PE6 PE8. the japanese usually use this to rate their gear. the number represents the diameter of the line. but because people other than the japanese don't know what it really represents, most have just assumed PE6 equals to 60lb or PE8 equals to 80lb.

the formula for working out line diameter for a given PE rating is:

d = 0.165 * p^0.5

where

d = line dia (in mm)

p = PE rating

so for example, to work out the diameter for PE 4 line,

d = 0.165 * 4^0.5

= 0.165 * 2

= 0.33 mm

Edited by David L
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dude, where were you when i asked what were the PE diameters in this thread?

could of saved me the hassle. if i had known that formula i wouldn't of had to find the table

going by your example, i knew its not good to just assume PE4 = 40lb breaking strain. Because if you look at Fins, 50lb has diameter of 0.33mm. thats why i tried to find what the PE rating truly meant, but it was hard going through japanese translation in babel fish. but now i know, i could also calculate how much line could fit on a reel

Edited by hottyscotty
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dude, where were you when i asked what were the PE diameters in this thread?

could of saved me the hassle. if i had known that formula i wouldn't of had to find the table

going by your example, i knew its not good to just assume PE4 = 40lb breaking strain. Because if you look at Fins, 50lb has diameter of 0.33mm. thats why i tried to find what the PE rating truly meant, but it was hard going through japanese translation in babel fish. but now i know, i could also calculate how much line could fit on a reel

sorry mate. :1prop:

apologies in advance for hijacking this thread.

tbh, i find that line diameters for braided line aren't very accurate anyway, as the cross section of braid (4 strand especially), is not round. manufacturers (esp US ones) seem to take a bit of artistic licence when publishing the diameter of their braided line. i usually find i can't get anywhere close to their claimed capacity on my reels.

eg. Shimano Stella 8000PG - claimed capacity of 300m PE4, in reality 220m PE4 (Varivas Big One)

plus many other examples i won't go into right now.

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Been reading this post with interest and have a question of my own.

I have a 7" rod and it vibrates while downrigging, could this be considered not good as it affects the look of the bait or is it nothing to worry about.

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