De-spooling The Reel

[Kruzenvax]

Hi all,

I spool all mey threadline reels in a way that has been recommended to me by the tackle shop people (and various articles) - e.g. laying the spoll with the line on the floor label up, etc - in order to prevent line twist.

Now I need to take the line from some reels - not to trash it but to re-spool. What whoud be the best way to take the line so I can spool again with no twist?

Thanks

[slinkymalinky]

Hi all,

I spool all mey threadline reels in a way that has been recommended to me by the tackle shop people (and various articles) - e.g. laying the spoll with the line on the floor label up, etc - in order to prevent line twist.

Now I need to take the line from some reels - not to trash it but to re-spool. What whoud be the best way to take the line so I can spool again with no twist?

Thanks

G'day Kruzen,

If the 2 reels are about the same size you should be able to simply open the bail on the original reel and wind it straight onto the new reel... the tendency to twist the line coming off the first spool will be countered by the tendency to twist it the opposite way winding onto the new spool. I've done it once and it seemed to work ok (with braid though which is a little more forgiving).

Cheers, Slinky

[Kruzenvax]

Thanks Slinky,

Unfortunately, reels are fifferent in sizes... but I'll keep that "countertwisting" approach for the future

Alex

G'day Kruzen,

If the 2 reels are about the same size you should be able to simply open the bail on the original reel and wind it straight onto the new reel... the tendency to twist the line coming off the first spool will be countered by the tendency to twist it the opposite way winding onto the new spool. I've done it once and it seemed to work ok (with braid though which is a little more forgiving).

Cheers, Slinky

[jewgaffer]

Hi Kruzenvax, Re spool the line and do it directly the way it spooled off the spool and test it for line twist as mentioned below BUT and there can often be a but where fishing lines are concerned.

The best way to test a mono line for line twist is to tie the line on ready to go back on the spool it came off and test it first by doing the following :-

1. Thread the line thru the guides and wind on about 10 metrers or so winding it back on tight as you can.

2. After you've spooled on about 10 metres or so, dip the rod tip down from the source about 1 1/2 metres so that the line dangles down and hangs loose. If the line twists at all, it has been spooled on in the wrong direction in the first place and because of quality control in mass production, the label may have been placed on the wrong side of the spool in the factory. There is also a possibility of a faulty product but you can always reverse the spooling direction and still do the test for the possibility of having been sold a cheap and nasty or even a faulty high quality fishing line.

Tip :- Tie a uni knot when attaching fishing line to a reel or any other knot good for the purpose for that matter and tie a half hitch around the spool each side of the knot to take any strain off the knot itself. That will be assisted by the half hitches pulling against one another. Doing this preserves the knot strength which has too much stretch and give at the knot, the knot being tied around the metal spool, and doing the half hitches as mentioned retains the main line strength, should it ever be necessary when a fish is all but unstoppable.

Cheers

jewgaffer

Edited June 11, 2008 by jewgaffer

[Kruzenvax]

Thanks jewgaffer,

Do you think this is applicable to the braid as well? I'm thinking of getting an empty spool on a electro screwdriver, winding the line from the threadline with bailarm open and test for twist as you've described.

Cheers

Hi Kruzenvax, Re spool the line and do it directly the way it spooled off the spool and test it for line twist as mentioned below BUT and there can often be a but where fishing lines are concerned.

The best way to test a mono line for line twist is to tie the line on ready to go back on the spool it came off and do the following :-

1. Thread the line thru the guides and wind on about 10 metrers or so and wind it on tight as you can.

2. After you've spooled on about 10 metres or so, dip the rod tip down from the source about 1 1/2 metres so that the line dangles down and hangs loose. If line twists at all it has been spooled in the wrong direction in the first place and because of quality control in mass production, the label may have been placed on the wrong side of the spool in the first place. There is also a possibility of a faulty product but you can always reverse the spooling direction and still do the test for the possibility of having been sold a cheap and nasty or even a faulty high quality fishing line.

Tip :- Tie a uni knot when attaching fishing line to a reel or any other knot good for the purpose for that matter and tie a half hitch around the spool each side of the knot to take any strain off the knot itself. That will be assisted by the half hitches pulling against one another. Doing this preserves the knot strength which has too much stretch and give in it, the knot being tied around the metal spool, and doing the half hitches as mentioned retains the main line strength, should it ever be necessary when a fish is all but unstoppable.

Cheers

jewgaffer

[slinkymalinky]

Here's another thought out of left field...

What about running the line out behind a boat, cutting it off at the spool once all out, retying to the new reel and winding on???

Cheers, Tony

[jewgaffer]

Thanks jewgaffer,

......Do you think this is applicable to the braid as well?.......

Cheers

With some brands of braid and at various line sizes, line twist does happen, especially with braid twisting around itself anywhere along the line due to being wound on, retrieved incorrectly or loose line bloom out and other factors such as tide change and wind etc, and especially by braid line turning itself around a swivel and holding the twist action in the line strand memory until the next cast and so on, until you remove the twisted section that tends to twist because of using a swivel which is mainly used by habit and unnecessary from braid to mono or leader/ shock leader etc . I.E. A swivel from braid to mono leader or wind ons where the braid comes into play is unnecessary except at the mono terminal end when using the wire, either single or multi which need flemish knot clearance and the flemish knot and the swivel gives freedom of movement, particularly when jig zagging a live bait and not spinning same.

To avoid the braid twisting over swivels of uneven size and holding the twist in the line memory, I use a 3/4" I25lb Crane swivel to leader for the finer power pro braid and I use the same length 3/4" in the running ball bearing swivel for my running snapper type sinker rig ups, and I use even set ups throughout for all my other braid lines as well.

Cheers

jewgaffer

Edited June 11, 2008 by jewgaffer