badblackdogjack Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Hi, Just took my new boat out for its first run,a little bit scary as the steering had froze as I was backing out from the boat ramp, I nearly threw the anchor out. !!!! then the steering freed up, THEW !!!!!!!!!!! all good, then every minute or so a beep would sound I thought that it was my sounder, but I think thats its coming from the control box, the VRO has been disconnected ,and I premix,but the tank is still in place,and the oil level looks low...could this be the alarm? I will ask a few more questions,If you dont mind,as I have many,once that I have cleared this one up...cheers lads jonny and lasses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copafisher Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 ...the steering had froze as I was backing out from the boat ramp... .....every minute or so a beep would sound .... Jonny, I had the same thing happen to me last year at the ramp. You probably need to remove and clean your steering cable. See http://fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.ph...c=34213&hl= or search previous posts for "stuck steering". I have an injected 2 stroke (Mercury 75), on mine the alarm has 2 functions, either overheating (I check tellltale is functioning as a start) or the 2 stroke oil reservior is getting low (usually its oil as I dont fill it to capacity as it leaks when tilted, my alarm seems to com on when about 1L left in rough sea). Check that the oil injection and low oil alarm is properly turned off. Send a pm to Huey at Huett Marine, they are a Fishraider sponsor and provide much good advice. Cheeers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a boat Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Hi, good advice about the steering, you should remove the cable and clean or replace it. Your engine has a few different warning horn sounds for different problems. A constant beep is for overheat while an on/off beep is for oil and considering you say someone has disconnected the oil injection system they probably have not disocnnect the wiring harness. Check to see if that is the case. Other problem with be a faulty horn in the control box and that can be tested by sorting out the temp sender in the cylinde rhead with just the key on and see if it sounds. Cheers, Huey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badblackdogjack Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 Thanx for your replies....much appreciated I will lube up...and put a liter of cheapo 2 two stroke in the old tank to see if that fixes my odd beep... I will be saving up ,for a visit to Huey to give it a once over ,after I pay my Christmas credit card debts off , maybe in the next month !!!!!!!!!!!!!! heres hoping, I realize that a new second hand boat is always , an on going saga... I just need a bit of peace of mind ,to enjoy her... for the time being.. I will be investigating why she is a bit lumpy at trolling speed next....any ideas ?? thanx jonny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nosliw Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Hi, I had a similar problem when I purchased my boat (2000 50hp johnson) and it turned out to be the plugs. So if all else fails maybe worth a shot checking to see that you have the factory specificed plugs(Champion QL78YC for me). Anyways I wish you all the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonniefisho Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 (edited) Hi, Just took my new boat out for its first run,a little bit scary as the steering had froze as I was backing out from the boat ramp, I nearly threw the anchor out. !!!! then the steering freed up, THEW !!!!!!!!!!! all good, then every minute or so a beep would sound I thought that it was my sounder, but I think thats its coming from the control box, the VRO has been disconnected ,and I premix,but the tank is still in place,and the oil level looks low...could this be the alarm? I will ask a few more questions,If you dont mind,as I have many,once that I have cleared this one up...cheers lads jonny and lasses One of the advantages of the VRO being disabled is that you can remove the oil tank! I'm just wondering how its been disabled?? Follow the oil line from the oil tank to the VRO unit - somewhere in between I would say the hose is cut and plugged. There are 2 electrical plugs that should be hanging disconnected, left side of the motor nearish the back - a round 4 pin which is the wiring to the pump, and a 2 pin 'square' connector which is the low oil alarm and goes to the oil tank. I'm basing this on assuming yours is exactly the same as my 50hp 99 model which is likely. Possibly all thats been done to disable it is the 4 pin round connector to the pump has been disconnected and thats it - which is a bit sloppy really. If you need I can get you pics of my 'disabled' setup and the appropriate connections/pluggings and wire colours. Edited January 14, 2009 by wonniefisho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badblackdogjack Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 Thank you all . I will having a really close look,on the weekend,and checking all your wonderful replies... I really do want to go and see Huey,when I have the funds to do so, so until then I will try and do all the menial jobs myself, thinking of replacing all the fuel lines,primer bulb ect . New plugs, the inline fuel filter doesn't look too new either. But on the good side she was doing 32 knots in a slight chop..at 5500 WOT most satisfying The gearbox,forward reverse on the control box could do with an adjustment, a bit draggy,long and vague... NEXT !!!!!!!!!!! Here she is .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a boat Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Nice looking rig and would go well with the 70HP Johno. They are a legendary engine and they just go and go. Good idea to do what you are tlaking about yourself, not that hard or expensive. Being a centre console the control cables do alot more bends than a runabout and can wear and you should replace them, when funds allow with the HE cables that work alot better. Cheers, Huey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badblackdogjack Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share Posted January 16, 2009 Thanx Huey, what are "HE cables" and how much for a pair ? Wow plugs are expensive nearly $20 each, mine didn;t look too bad ,as in no worn electrodes, but they were wet and pretty black, but the boat runs well !!!! The guy that I bought the boat from ,sold it with a full tank ,, WOW nice bloke with the price of petrol at the moment, and he has been running it on XD25 at 50/1 it looks a bit rich...??????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a boat Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Thanx Huey, what are "HE cables" and how much for a pair ? Wow plugs are expensive nearly $20 each, mine didn;t look too bad ,as in no worn electrodes, but they were wet and pretty black, but the boat runs well !!!! The guy that I bought the boat from ,sold it with a full tank ,, WOW nice bloke with the price of petrol at the moment, and he has been running it on XD25 at 50/1 it looks a bit rich...??????????? Morning, HE are high energy cables and are the best cable available and the price depends ont he length but are around $100 each. Not sure what you mean by the plugs, that engine wants to run QL77JC4 plugs and they cost $6 each-so you either have the wrong plugs of got ripped off. Make sure the engine is reachign correct temp at low speed otherwise you will have running problems and you should really use XD-50 at a ratio of 50:1 if you are pre-mixing. Cheers, Huey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badblackdogjack Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share Posted January 16, 2009 I bought the plugs at Repco or maybe I should call them "RIPPOFFCO" but they are NGK.. which are the only plugs that I run in my cars and bikes... plug no.BPZ8HS-10 and they were what were in the motor, and what were recommended in the book...I have never had a lot of luck with champion and alike.!!!! Can I buy the HE cables locally or would you have to order ??? I dont want to mess up the dog gear in my gearbox... THe prior owner left my with a full Xd25 that I would like to use up....bad Idea ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonniefisho Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) I bought the plugs at Repco or maybe I should call them "RIPPOFFCO" but they are NGK.. which are the only plugs that I run in my cars and bikes... plug no.BPZ8HS-10 and they were what were in the motor, and what were recommended in the book...I have never had a lot of luck with champion and alike.!!!! Can I buy the HE cables locally or would you have to order ??? I dont want to mess up the dog gear in my gearbox... THe prior owner left my with a full Xd25 that I would like to use up....bad Idea ???? Yes, Huey, can you confirm what plugs are correct (I'd say my 99 50hp takes the same) as I seem to read conflicting specs between the few similar plugs as I too have the BPZ8HS-10 in mine - or are they so similar that its not a real issue. Edited January 17, 2009 by wonniefisho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a boat Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 Hi, the correct plug for that engine is the Champion QL77JC4 and is what would of been in from new. OMC never fitted NGK, nothing wrong with them, but that is not the correct plug from the factory. Not sure what "book" you were looking at but I imagine the NGK book and if so you should have BZ7HS-10 so you have the worng heat range plugs. Your call on where you buy the cables, not sure what you by local by any BRP dealer should eb able to get them if they knwo what they are doing. Also your call about the oil, but I would onyl run XD-50 in her if it my engine and make sure it is reaching the correct temp and I would fit QL77JC4. Cheers, Huey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonniefisho Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 I imagine the NGK book and if so you should have BZ7HS-10 so you have the worng heat range plugs. Thanks Huey, Are they the same as NGK B7HS (without the Z and the -10) as I have 2 sitting here that were never put in my 89 model 40hp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badblackdogjack Posted January 17, 2009 Author Share Posted January 17, 2009 Well a huge THANK YOU to Huey again , just like his slogan says "you cant beat experience" yes I had the wrong heat range in there that explains the plug condition and poor idle so I went back to Repco swapped the plugs for the right ones . Champion QL77JC4 , and wait for it I am $33 better off.... what a win win situation I will water test soon....cheers mate I cant wait to meet you....... Jonny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nosliw Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 Hey mate, I had NGK plugs in my motor as well which was causing the false signal. I had a marine mechanic look at it and he didn't understand what was causing it and narrowed it down to a faulty gauge or wiring issue which if you think about it is quite logical. But I'm glad I read the infamous article by Bill Grannis which stated that "Incorrect spark plugs occasionally cause false warning signals, too." And after changing the plugs this sorted out my problem and was a huge relief. So it may be worth a shot fitting the factory specified plugs because as Huey said they're only $6. But I made the mistake of not going down to see Huey before and I don't think I will do it again so if you find out that it's not a simple fix I would definately book in with Huey. This is a video of the false signal that I got see if it's the same as yours. http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=9jL1ChBNVaQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a boat Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) Hi, no problem Jonny-you did the right thing mate and check the engine temp when you take her out next. Fisho the Z for the NGK and the Q for Champion relate to inductive suppressor plugs. Your engine runs QL78YC if a 1989 model and NGK do not really have an cross reference for this plug. If you want to fit NGK plugs use BPZ8HS-10 again if a 1989 model. This is quite important because upto 1988 they ran a different ignition system and therefore a different plug, so if you are sure she is a 1989 they are the plugs for it and I persoanlly would only run QL78YC in it and minium XD-50 or better yet XD-100 if still oil injected and as with the 70HP make sure she is reaching correct temp at idle. Cheers, Huey. PS;- Yes we see that all the time and it amazes me that alot of people in this industry really do not know what they are doing. The article by Bill is a great example and as I have said before we still get so called experts telling paying customers things that are just wrong and/or charging them to not fix the engine. Edited January 17, 2009 by Huey @ Huett Marine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badblackdogjack Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 I want to say that I second that...and am in total agreement with Musty... Thank you again Huey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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