Building A Spinning Rod

[gretsch]

Gidday Raiders,

Some of you have been posting questions about rod building. I am currently knocking up a 6'6" 2-4kg spinning rod for a mate's 7 year old son Benjamin so I thought I would share the step by step on how I build rods. This will take a few weeks as I only do it in my spare time (which is minimal these days).

Specifications are:

MHX Graphite Blank - 6'6", 4-8lb (2-4kg), tip 4.5. Butt .47"

Guides - Fuji Alconite

Handle - Split Butt Style - Fuji IPS Seat, KPDS Locking Hood, Cork Grips,Matagi Winding Check and Trim Rings, Rubberised Cork Butt Cap

Threadwork - black wraps with silver and gold trims (I am over fancy patterns)

Finish - Threadmaster (the best by a long shot)

Regarding equipment and tools, I will detail what you need for each step as we come to that step.I have a Renzetti Lathe and an American Tackle Power Wrapper so, the task is a bit easier and, I can shape my own grips. You don't absolutley need these but they are very useful.

Step 1

Handle Construction

You will need:

Cork Rings 1/4 inch ID (6mm) - (20 off)- 3 need to have a 19-20mm ID to form the KPDS Locking foregrip

Rubberized cork ring for the butt cap

Fuji IPS Reel Seat

IPS Cork Adaptor (Contoured piece of cork to fit the seat profile)

Matagi HTWL Winding Check

24 hr Araldite (DON'T USE 5 minute on handles)

Builder's Clamps (G Clamps or Trigger Clamps)

Start by gluing the IPS Adaptor in the reels seat. Next, add some cork rings to the desired length and clamp together.

Next, get the KPDS Hood and glue the rings on to form the fore grip rough piece. Also glue in the Winding Check at this point and ensure that everything is centred. This is critical as othersie, the winding check will scratch the blank as you twist it to insert the reel.

Next glue up 4-6 rings with the rubberized cork piece (with no hole) for the rear grip of the split.

Allow all to cure for 24 hours.

When cured, slide each piece onto a mandrel and lock into place on the lathe. Begin the turning process and shape to your desire (the beauty of a custom rod is you can have whatever you imagination desires). I suggest you practise first on a scrap piece of cork (old fashioned handline cylinders are a good medium)as it is quite difficult to keep the cork concentric. A tool rest on the lathe is a must.

Start out with a rasp and get the general shape then, begin with course paper, medium paper and then, for the final run, use wet and dry and burnish the cork. It should be ultra smooth at the end. We wil hit these grips with Bees Wax once the rod is completed. This gives a great finish and helps the cork to last and resist blood and guts.

As a foot note to this section, you can buy all these parts ready made and glue them straight onto the blank. They are expensive though and making your own does give a sense of achievement at a fraction of the cost.

Photos:

Main Reel Seat Glued and Clamped

Positioned on the Lathe for Shaping

Shaped and Ready to be Glued onto the Blank

Edited May 21, 2010 by Cephalopod

[Hooked-Up]

very interesting Chris, il be watching this mate.

[Hodgey]

You bloody ripper! Looking forward to more of this post, Chris, especially the binding work

Cheers

Ian

[gretsch]

Beauty!! Got a couple of followers....

I'll glue up the remainder of the butt on Saturday and start the guide wraps on Sunday. Should have a few more steps to publish by Monday.

Edited May 17, 2010 by Cephalopod

[justinp]

Love your work Chris, never got around to deciding on a blacky stick yet, will let you know.

[iggy]

G`day interesting stuff ,can`t wait for the next episode.

[Blood Knot]

Great post Ceph - Love the shape of the handle and the short but.

Cheers

[gretsch]

Great post Ceph - Love the shape of the handle and the short but.

Cheers

Thanks Blood Knot... The handle also has a split butt section which is 40mm long. I haven;'t sohwn that in the photos.. you will see it in the next step.

The shorter butt is great for working soft plastics and squid jigs as it doesn't hit your body (or your cods ) as you pivot the rod to impart action to the lure.

Edited May 19, 2010 by Cephalopod

[Blood Knot]

Thanks Blood Knot... The handle also has a split butt section which is 40mm long. I haven;'t sohwn that in the photos.. you will see it in the next step.

The shorter butt is great for working soft plastics and squid jigs as it doesn't hit your body (or your cods ) as you pivot the rod to impart action to the lure.

Yeh kinda figured something was going in that hole in the end - looking fwd to seeing the completed item. Had a look at that rod lathe you are using, sure beats my plan to build one lol and quicker than pondering the design issues.

Cheers

Blood Knot

[gretsch]

Ok Lads.. did a bit more on the weekend.

The next step after finishing the shaping of all the handle components is to glue them up.

You will need:

• 24 Hour Araldite
  
• Masking Tape
  
• Scotchbrite Pad (regular kitchen issue)
  
• Metho
  
• Rags
  

Use only 24 hour Araldite (or other two part epoxy suitable for the mix of materials - graphite, cork and alumninium). This is critical as a loose handle means a complete rebuild in most cases. You will also enjoy the hour or so working time with the long cure glues. This is a process you do not want to rush.

To prepare the blank, rub the area where the grips and seat will finally reside with the Scotchbrite pad to create a key for the glue. You are trying to create a "waterbreak free" surface which is when a drop of water will actually "wet" the blank and not just slip off onto the floor leaving a tiny streak of water. This will ensure a perfect bond.

Next use the masking tape to create a series of bushings upon which, the reel seat and grips will finally rest. It is important to note that these bushings are for positioning and centering the components whilst the glue cures. They are not structural although, they do provide a degree of support for the components I guess. The photo below shows the idea. It is a photo I stole from the web as I forgot to photograph the process and once all was in place and curing, it was too late!!

Now it is time to mix the epoxy. Equal parts and quite a bit as we need to fill the gap between the reel seat or grips and the blank. Using a spatula or similar, load up the tape bushings with glue and slide the reel seat and grips on twisting as you go to work the glue into the pipe. I have a split butt for this rod which means the rear grip goes on first from the rear, the trim rings go on from the top and then the grip/reel seat. Any excess glue can be cleaned up with metho whilst it is still wet. You can keep attending to it for the first 2 hours of the cure for clean up of any leaching.

Here is the completed handle.

Now we are ready for the guides.

For this step, you will need:

• Fuji Alconite Guides (or SICS etc depending on your preference) - BLYAG - 25, 16, 10, BLAG 8, 6, 5, 5, 5 plus a 4.5/5 tip.
  
• Thread - I am using Gudebrod Black, Gold and Silver all in Size A.
  
• Masking Tape
  
• 30cm Piece of 4-6lb braid (for the pull through)
  
• Burnishing tool (I have a proper set of rod making tools but, the back of a tea spoon can be substituted)
  
• Small file (Jeweller's file or similar)and some wet and dry paper (left over from the grip excercise)
  
• Patience
  

Start by preparing the feet of the giudes. Look at the feet of your guides and you will see that they are quite blunt at the point. This is no good for binding onto as the thread will not run up the foot from the blank and you will end up with a gap in the finished wrap which will shit you forever. To avoid this, file the end into a nice flattened point. Don't make it to sharp or it will cut the thread as you wrap. Finish off by polishing it with the wet and dry. You want a smooth finish. I use a small upright belt sander and a drill press with a universal polishing wheel which makes this process very easy and gives the perfect result each time. These items are not overly expensive and if you plan to do a few rods, well worth the investment. They also have many other uses around the work shop.

Now, tape the guide into position on the blank leaving half of the foot exposed. I won't go into guide spacing etc.. Google has a million articles on this topic.

Now we begin to wrap.

I am doing gold and silver trims on this rod. Start by positioning the metallic trim threads onto the blank and taping them into position.

Next, add the black main thread and tape it onto the blank to the right of the guide. Now begin to spiral to the left until you reach the starting point of the finished wrap. Make one revolution and begin to wrap back over the main thread to lock it in place. Make another two revolutions and stop. Now is when the gold trim band starts. Pick up the gold thread and move the black thread under it until you have it locked in postion. Now, make two revolutions with the gold and then, return to the black by reversing previous step. Make two black revolutions and then add the silver trim. Again, wrap the silver over the black for three revolutions and then return to the black. You now have a gold and silver trim at the beginning of the wrap.

Sorry for the poor quality photos. It is hard to do close ups with an iPhone.

Now continue to wrap the thread up the guide foot and onto the guide. Importantly, do not use to much tension on the thread. I hold the thread between thumb and forefinger and apply a mild tension just to keep all the threads aligned. Too much tension will cause gaps and fraying of the thread. It also makes it very hard to finally adjust the guide position and alignment.

Now we add the trim for the end of the wrap. We use the same process as the first trim but in reverse. First lay the trim threads down on the blank and tape them into position. Now, wrap over then for 5-6 revolutions to lock them down.

As we are going to do a "guide locking wrap" for the single footers (to basically tie them back and avoid any pull outs), the trim wrap will be done in front of the guide. To make the "locking wrap", wrap the thread around the guide stem twice in a top - down motion and then continue to wrap in front of the guide for for 2 revolutions. Now, insert the "pull through" which is that piece of braid you have sitting on your bench and were wondering WTF is that for.... this will allow us to pull the last thread of the wrap under the wrap and tie it off.

Once the trim is complete, return to the balck thread for three revolutions and pass it through the braid loop and, whilst keeping tension on the black thread (stick the thread in your mouth if you run out of hands), pull the briad loop through with a steady tension. This motion will suck the main thread back under itself and out at the pull loop entry point. The wrap is now tied off and secure.

Before trimming the tag ends, pack and burnish the wrap with the spoon. Use the spoon to carefully move the threads in from each and and even everything up (this is why it is good not to use too much tension when wrapping). Now burnish the thread with the back of the spood. This will flatten the threads out and close up all the gaps. Trim all tags and the wrap is complete!!

The next step will be the final trims, decals and epoxy finishing. Stay tuned....... may be a couple of weeks away though as I have a big piss up this weekend.

Feel free to PM me if you want any more info.

[iggy]

looking good ,can`t wait for the next instalment .do you make rods for a living or is it just a hobby, either way i think you must be extremely talented , take it easy on the sauce mate , you`l need that steady hand to finish it.

[Hodgey]

Great post, Chris. Some very interesting tips, particcularly regarding the guide foot. Keep the photos coming please!

Cheers

Ian

[gretsch]

Iggy, just a hobby for me. I think that once you make something you love into a business, you lose a bit of the magic!!

Hodgey, I will have more pices of the remaining threadwork and epoxy work etc later. Glad you are enjoying the post. I see that you are the Mullet record holder!!! Nice one..

[Blood Knot]

Keep it coming Ceph, that was great.

When you tape down the silver or gold thread trim thread do you just tape up a particular length of it up the rod, say 20 to 30 cms or enough to do your 2 or 3 turns ?

Thats so much neater and quicker than terminating by tieng off and than restarting the next colour ( my clumsy self taught technique from the 70's lol).

Cheers

Blood Knot

[gretsch]

Keep it coming Ceph, that was great.

When you tape down the silver or gold thread trim thread do you just tape up a particular length of it up the rod, say 20 to 30 cms or enough to do your 2 or 3 turns ?

Thats so much neater and quicker than terminating by tieng off and than restarting the next colour ( my clumsy self taught technique from the 70's lol).

Cheers

Blood Knot

Hi Blood Knot

I usually cut a length about 100mm longer than needed for the trim band. This way, I have enough length to ensure I can keep control of the tension of the wrap. After a while, you get used to it. I also often use little offcuts for the short trims up on the tip end.

[gretsch]

Hi guys.. rod is finished but the photos are crap house. I will try to take some more tonight and post tomorrow.

Apologies for the delay.

Edited June 7, 2010 by Cephalopod

[Hodgey]

Excellent! Look forward to seeing the finished product Chris

Cheers

Ian

[slinkymalinky]

Coming along nicely, Ceph. Can't wait to see the end result.

Thanks for sharing all your hard work.

Cheers, Slinky

[gretsch]

Ok.. sorry for the delay. Had some socialising to do!!!

I have finished the rod and it is ready for the first cast.

In short, the following steps occurred:

1. Wrapping complete include the creation of a label panel with hook keeper.

2. Single coat of Threadmaster finish over all wraps and the section of blank for the decals

3. Apply the waterslide decals and rod label supplied the blank manufacturer (you must have a coat of epoxy down BEFORE you apply any labels otherwise, they will wind up cloudy due to microscopic air bubbles trapped in the pourous surface of the rod blank)

4. Apply a second and final coat of epoxy over the guide wraps

5. Apply a second and third coat of epoxy over the label panel

6. Apply three coats of Bees Wax furniture polish to the cork grips. This fills any imperfections in the cork and helps it repell water and slime, blood, guts, squid ink etc....

You know have a finished rod!! All thats left to do is bend it on a fish!!

Edited June 21, 2010 by Cephalopod

[Hodgey]

VERY nice Chris. I would like to own a one-of-a-kind rod myself one day. Thanks for the info and the photos mate. Great work!

Cheers

Ian

[tangled1]

Well done ceph it looks brilliant , let us know how you go when you have your first session . I bet the first fish you land will be rewarding, i hope its a cracker!

Again, well done

Cheers tangled1