rickb Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 OK Raiders, Iam working on my box trailer. after grinding and sanding rusty areas,what is the best solution or killrust to use before painting. cheers Rick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 rick I used to use Ferropro but it no longer available. I wanted to paint the rear of the boat trailer which receives a dunking on each launch & retreival The paint store reccomended a product called NoRUST made by Norglass Lab . at Punchbowl. I then over painted it with Silver enamal. That was about 6 months ago & there is a small amount of of surface rust beginning to appear. I think if I had used a killrust product or Galmit it would have been a better overcote than just plain enamel Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fester Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 Hi, I use a product called Penetrol, it is great, kills rust and seals the steel, easy to paint over. my dads Hilux was very rusty, chassis etc, 12 months ago we stripped it, and used penetrol before painting, 12 months on and no sign of return. and it lives on the coast near salt air 24/7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickb Posted August 20, 2010 Author Share Posted August 20, 2010 Hi Fester, For the last four years I thought penetrol was something you painted on glass or stainless or aluminium to make the paint adhere better. Thanks mate you learn something every day. cheers Rick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berleyguts Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 (edited) Check out a product called POR 15. It paints straight over rust and sets rock hard. It is sensitive to sunlight, so you do need to paint over it with regular paint in 24 hours. When I changed the windscreen rubber in my '74 kombi, I sanded back the little bit of rust there was, brushed some POR15 on and when it dried ( as it wouldn't see sunlight) popped the windscreen and rubber back in. When I refurbished my box trailer, I sanded it back lightly, sprayed it with POR 15, then sprayed primer and hammer coat over the top. That was some time ago and I've had no rust reappear. Baz Edited August 20, 2010 by Berleyguts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickb Posted August 20, 2010 Author Share Posted August 20, 2010 Check out a product called POR 15. It paints straight over rust and sets rock hard. It is sensitive to sunlight, so you do need to paint over it with regular paint in 24 hours. When I changed the windscreen rubber in my '74 kombi, I sanded back the little bit of rust there was, brushed some POR15 on and when it dried ( as it wouldn't see sunlight) popped the windscreen and rubber back in. When I refurbished my box trailer, I sanded it back lightly, sprayed it with POR 15, then sprayed primer and hammer coat over the top. That was some time ago and I've had no rust reappear. Baz G/day Baz, Thanks fellas for your input,might try that por 15 Baz. Just finished putting new bearings and sanding all back,would I need primer before hammertone,Hammer is all I ever use on mt trailers. Cheers Rick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berleyguts Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 G/day Baz, Thanks fellas for your input,might try that por 15 Baz. Just finished putting new bearings and sanding all back,would I need primer before hammertone,Hammer is all I ever use on mt trailers. Cheers Rick. You probably don't need primer now I think about it. I just primed it anyway - the main reason for painting the trailer was to get some practice in spraying technique before I try to tackle my Kombi! Baz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickb Posted August 23, 2010 Author Share Posted August 23, 2010 Thanks Baz,I have just ordered POR15 from kempsey will be deliverwed friday. I went the whole hog and ordered 4 ltrs,I was talking to one of the pro,he said they all use it now Must be good if all my old mates like it. But 4 ltrs sure [uts a hole in the wallet. Cheers Rick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berleyguts Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Thanks Baz,I have just ordered POR15 from kempsey will be deliverwed friday. I went the whole hog and ordered 4 ltrs,I was talking to one of the pro,he said they all use it now Must be good if all my old mates like it. But 4 ltrs sure [uts a hole in the wallet. Cheers Rick. Yeah, it's not cheap but the guys in the Kombi Club that have used it for their restos swear by it. Baz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spaners Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 Yeah, it's not cheap but the guys in the Kombi Club that have used it for their restos swear by it. Baz Warning,Warning,Warning----Do not get that stuff on your skin,It takes about a week to get it off.Wear gloves and clean the top of the tin before putting the lid back on or you will never open the tin again.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickb Posted September 2, 2010 Author Share Posted September 2, 2010 Warning,Warning,Warning----Do not get that stuff on your skin,It takes about a week to get it off.Wear gloves and clean the top of the tin before putting the lid back on or you will never open the tin again.. Your dead right about getting it on hands,it won't come off until the old skin peels away,you can't use it from tin,U have to tip amount needed in to container clean paint out of grooves cover with glad wrap and seal, then place in fridge or you lose a lot of shelf life. But it is worth all the hassles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew399 Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 I am just about to do some work on my boat trailer and hilux, im a student so a bit of a cheapo - is there any problem with just using killrust products or similar? If i sand it back or use a wire brush and then use a rust convertor (killrust brand or similar) and then pait over it with the killrust stuff would that be ok for a few years? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickb Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 Hi Dicko, If you are looking for cheap stuff,like kill rust,make sure it is sanded well, then use converter,then about 3 coats of light killrust,otherwise it will be back in twelve months. POR 15 is about70 bucks a lire ,don't even have to sand right back,just knock off flakes and paint on two coats and no more worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berleyguts Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 Warning,Warning,Warning----Do not get that stuff on your skin,It takes about a week to get it off.Wear gloves and clean the top of the tin before putting the lid back on or you will never open the tin again.. Yes, I know - it happened to me. Read the tin - do as I say, not as i did! Baz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew399 Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 rick - If you have any left from your order after your done mate and you have no more use for it il buy some off you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew399 Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 And has any one had any experience with the product rustemul? may have got the spelling wrong... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickb Posted September 4, 2010 Author Share Posted September 4, 2010 Sorry Dicko, what I have left,I will be using as resin to fibreglass my fish boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steze Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 I used a rust converter product made by 3M. It wasn't cheap either. I paid close to $40 for a little bottle, bought it from super cheap auto. All I did was use a steel brush to clean of all the flakes and rough parts. And then I sprayed the stuff on, Left it for 2 hours or so then sprayed it again and all the rust was pretty much gone. Depending on how big the job is, it might be an option if you are low on cash. I forgot to mention that I used it on my trailer springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew399 Posted September 5, 2010 Share Posted September 5, 2010 No worries rick, and thanks steze i will look in to it. In the mean time has anyone tried rustemul? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayden_229 Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 i use hydrochloric acid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berleyguts Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 No worries rick, and thanks steze i will look in to it. In the mean time has anyone tried rustemul? Do you perhaps mean Rustoleum? There is a bit of chat on car forums about painting your cars with Rustoleum using a roller. Some stuff on Youtube too. It is also known ins some parts of the world as Tremclad. I have been putting off painting my Kombi roof this way, in the hope that I can manage to spray it but I just may have to give it a go. Google is your firend. Baz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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