Battery

[defyet]

Hi,

I know these threads have been done over and over but im tossing up between a Seamaster Gold 80Amp/640CCA or a Century Marine Pro 90Amp/720CCA.

All im running is a Evinrude early 90's model 115hp, Fishfinder (doesnt always stay on when the motors off) and a 12V Globe for the Anchor Light when fishing at night (around 6-8hours). Would the Seamaster be sufficient, only reason i ask is because i can get it for $80 cheaper then the Century but i dont want to scrimp over $80 if getting the Century means i wont get a flat battery on the water at night because it has a higher Amp rating.

The battery in the boat at the moment doesnt have a label but going by the size its the same as ones that are around 80amp/600cca however ive never used electrics on it for long periods so was unsure if the Seamaster 80/640 would be sufficient for my motor size and electrics.

Any recommendations?

Edited May 10, 2011 by defyet

[a boat]

Hi,

I know these threads have been done over and over but im tossing up between a Seamaster Gold 80Amp/640CCA or a Century Marine Pro 90Amp/720CCA.

All im running is a Evinrude early 90's model 115hp, Fishfinder (doesnt always stay on when the motors off) and a 12V Globe for the Anchor Light when fishing at night (around 6-8hours). Would the Seamaster be sufficient, only reason i ask is because i can get it for $80 cheaper then the Century but i dont want to scrimp over $80 if getting the Century means i wont get a flat battery on the water at night because it has a higher Amp rating.

The battery in the boat at the moment doesnt have a label but going by the size its the same as ones that are around 80amp/600cca however ive never used electrics on it for long periods so was unsure if the Seamaster 80/640 would be sufficient for my motor size and electrics.

Any recommendations?

Hi, either of those batteries will be fine for what you want to do with the 720CCA being better of course. Make sure there is not wing nuts on the battery-use nylock nuts for best results.

Cheers,

Huey.

[mike82]

I m sure either will do what you want.

But a general rule with batteries is you get what you pay for.

The marine pro is made in australia and also has deep cycling properties for extended running of electronics lights etc, as well as a decent cranking capacity and fibreglass plate separators. Being a standard battery you are also able to check and maintain the fluid level of the battery. Has a 24 month warranty.

The seamaster is a maintenance free calcium battery. Im not a big fan of calcium batteries in boats as when they go flat it's some times very hard to recharge them to 100% especially from the relatively small charge output from an outboard. Most small 'general household' chargers will have a hard time charging them to a true 100% as well. Being maintenance free you can't check the fluid or add any, not that you should need to though. Has a 24 month warranty.

At the end of the day it is personal choice and monetary restrictions that will deem which battery you buy, Just shop around for each as prices will vary from different suppliers.

PM sent.

Edited May 11, 2011 by aquaman

[BusterOz]

Hi There,

Batteries a strange "organic" creatures, treat them bad and they turnup their toes and die.

Discharge and Recharge them incorrectly and they'll die young!

Lots of vibration in a boat, so go for a Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM)

Sounds like you need 2 batteries, 1 (starting >CCA) to start your motor and 1 (deep cycle >Ah) to run your electrics as there's no battery that does both very well or for long!

Get a good 3-stage charger to maintain your batteries and they'll reward you for it.

If they stay in your boat probably better off with "maintenance-free" sealed battery - got to be a Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) if you want it to go the distance!

You get what you pay for, more Ah greater cost - check the weight as this will give you an indication of storage capacity generally the heavier the longer the run-time.

Cheers,

BusterOz

[helliconia]

Another thing you might not have thought about is replacing your standards globes with LED's. They'll draw only a fraction of the current of filament globes and reduce your chances of flattening the battery. I have a SeaMaster (not sure of the model) and haven't had any battery problems on the water running two 1 metre LED strips, an anchor light, and the sounder for several hours.

You can buy LED replacements for the anchor light globes that have the LED's mounted around a small can that fits inside the cover.

Edited September 17, 2011 by EmptyHooks

[Onajewagain]

It's something I'm always worried about is getting a flat battery..........again.

I've had to row the boat quite a few ks up berowra creek to find someone to tow us home and of course it was in 40 degree heat!

After that I take no risk. 720cca century for the motor, and a smaller sealed unit for the electrics. Cost about $150 in bits and peices plus the extra battery but I know I will never row home because of a BLAT FLATTERY!!

And I left a switched power outlet from my main battery where I've done my handy work with the small battery just in case I need it.

I get about 6 hours running the fish finder, radio and lights and added all of 5kgs to the boat.

"Some tend to go over board in prevention once they get stranded, but unfortunately the time on your hands when you get stranded is when you get the best of ideas"