martoiscool Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 So after seeking some advice off slinkymalinky I decided to have a go at a strip down and clean on my little sustain. First of all this took my from 930am until 1.15pm!!! Surly it will get quicker but it was my first strip down. This was the starting point. I got myself all set up ready to go. I had already done the drag on a previous day so no need for that. I started with the line roller.... What a pain that was i couldnt remember what order it went together in after I cleaned it with the shellite!!! It took me a good ten minutes before i got the idea of having a look at stradic... Problem solved.... Next I removed the spool spacers and bearings. Gave them a clean also. Off came the side plate and then I undid the nut holding the spool on. The spool just slips straight off. There was no lip from the body holding it in place. I then cleaned the side plate and the bearing and the handle gear I removed the roller clutch assembly then removed the locating pins plate from the rear of the reel and removed the pins. I slid out the worm shaft and then the pinion gear from the front at this stage was able to remove the main shaft by spinning it 180 degrees and sliding it off from the rear. I took everything else off that could be removed and cleaned it I cleaned everything in shellite and started to piece it all back together. I have a feeling I think I may have over greased it...see pick.... As now when I turn the handle it is still smooth but feels like it is slightly bogged. Also when I spin the handle fast and let go it does about two revolutions compared to about 4-5 from my Stradic. Another thing I'm not sure if it is correct is the spacer that sits in side the roller clutch assembly is the correct way up. It fits both ways but one end is smaller, light a step down in size, and I'm not sure which end is which. I have it with the large end inside the clutch assembly as it looks like it fits better. Every thing was covered in grease except for the bearings which all got oiled. I had the main shaft bearing greased but changed it to oil as I thought this was the reason why it felt bogged. Please feel free to offer advice on things I may have done wrong. Especially the over greasing. I hope this is the reason why the reel feels bogged. Sam.
martoiscool Posted August 1, 2011 Author Posted August 1, 2011 Fixed the bogged problem..... One little plastic shim thingy inside the reel that the worm gear sits in. Had it in back the front. It's interesting how one little part can affect the whole reel
fisheyes85 Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 Hey Sam, been researching mid range spin reels and think I want either a Stradic FJ/Ci4 or a sustain FE/FG in the 3000 size. I'm hoping it will a good multipurpose reel- plastics for snapper and school jew; throwing chromes off the rocks for bonito, tailor etc... I'll match it with the appropriate rod for the application. Which reel do you have a preference for- the Stradic or Sustain? Cheers in advance Tom
martoiscool Posted October 25, 2011 Author Posted October 25, 2011 Hey Tom, Mate I prefer the sustain.. I have pulled both the Stradic and the sustain apart and the sustains internals look tougher. It also has more bearings which may help. I have replaced the drag washers with carbon units and I do look after my reels. I use it for big plastics hard bodies etc on a 4-7 kilo t curve revolution inshore. I use it along side a Stradic 4000 when live baiting. The sustain was put through it's paces by a dirty big shark a few months back nearly 1mt long when I had a live mullet met for Jews. It handled it no worries without even a hint of giving up. Could of taken more punishment in my opinion. It just feels tougher... Mind you there is nothing wrong with a Stradic... Especially a ci4... Geez after all that bable I hope I have helped!!!
martoiscool Posted October 25, 2011 Author Posted October 25, 2011 Oi and I forgot to say that my mate has a 3000 ci4 that he uses for land based spinning on a fairly long 2 piece diawa rod. It casts a bloody mile and he doesn't have any issues with line running out etc...
fisheyes85 Posted October 28, 2011 Posted October 28, 2011 Oi and I forgot to say that my mate has a 3000 ci4 that he uses for land based spinning on a fairly long 2 piece diawa rod. It casts a bloody mile and he doesn't have any issues with line running out etc... Thanks heaps for the input- it'll all go into helping make my decision. Another complicating factor for me now is that I can see the usefullness/versatility of a Thunnus 4000 Ci4... wish shimano would make it easier for me to make a decision! cheers again Tom
slinkymalinky Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 G'day Sam, Nice work! On the subject of grease... yep, you overdid it a bit. When you're greasing gears, all you really need is just a smear so that when the gears mesh, they get a thin coating protecting them. The attached pic is a drive gear from an ABU 7000 and you can see sort of what I do. The grease in the teeth of this gear will spread out as the gears mesh and lubricate/protect but without clogging up the reel. Cheers, Slinky
martoiscool Posted November 3, 2011 Author Posted November 3, 2011 Thanks slinky, Thats how I do mine now... Just a smear to lightly coat it and they work perfectly. I'm glad I started to service my reels. I have compared them to my mates reels that are still in factory condition and mine are just that much better. I have already serviced one mates reels and he paid me with a jackal lure for each reel I did... Pretty happy with that for payment!!
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