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Overflow Question


cut_loose

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Thanks mate

I was just wondering if it would be okay having a hole in the hull half way down if you get what i mean ?

I'm going to get a bigger oveflow :) twice the size of the intake should do ?

I bought the tank from a mate for half the price of brand new, you can get em from a big boating chain starting with 'b' ;)

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I bought the same kit a couple of years ago for my 12ft Tinny. I tried a few different configurations but eventually gave up. In the end it was probably a bit too big for the Tinny. Now I've upgraded to the 530 I am looking at where to put it and how to set it up so I'm really interested in what you come up with. Agree with the previous comment that the outlet probably has to be bigger than supplied. When you set up the intake it drags in a heap of water when you are motoring along. I installed a shut off valve and used to throttle it back to keep the flow rate down. Also agree that you need to install the overflow outlet and the plastic pipe above the rim of the boat, or above the outlet hole if you are keen enough to drill a hole in the side of the boat. I can't bring myself to do it. it's too permanent for me!

My thinking is that it will be best mounted up high on the back of the boat, in the bait board . rod holder area area. Would also help so you don't have to bend over and get the bait out. The problem is building the frame so you can put it in and take it out easily. Using this solution you don't have to worry too much about overflow, like you do if you mount it on the floor. Other problem will be (I think) is the weight is very high in the boat, especially in choppy water. it will need to be very secure.

You can run the inlet water pipe up as per your red line, but if you are OK with punching a hole in the side of the boat then I'd run the inlet pipe up the back and put the hole in near the top rim so the pipe doesn't run over the top of the flat area (might sound a bit confusing).

In the tinny I changed the container to a round barrel shape so the volume was less (less weight), it could sit on the floor (reduced brackets required) of the boat and the top was naturally higher than the rim, so the overflow pipe was an easy solution, that's why I still have this container, and am looking to put it back in the new boat.

Have you done any searches on the web site/ There are quite a few different ideas. Try search "Tank" and "Bait Tank" so guys have put a heap of effort in. Keep us posted with some pics, I'm sure you will get it finished before I get a chance to get started!

Edited by GarryL
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hay buddy one thing i have learnt from building live bait tanks u can never have a big enough overflow fittings i have 60mm outlet 19mm inlet and it still fills up quick.. 500lph pump ps if u are gona use a big skin fitting make sure u mesh the inside cause yakkas can get stuck and cause tank to overflow, :thumbdown:

also make sure the water runs down hill otherwise u will have a trap of water which will make the tank overflow, (water cant get out) i have seen many people do this.. :1yikes:

good luck make looking forward to some pics!!

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hay buddy one thing i have learnt from building live bait tanks u can never have a big enough overflow fittings i have 60mm outlet 19mm inlet and it still fills up quick.. 500lph pump ps if u are gona use a big skin fitting make sure u mesh the inside cause yakkas can get stuck and cause tank to overflow, :thumbdown:

also make sure the water runs down hill otherwise u will have a trap of water which will make the tank overflow, (water cant get out) i have seen many people do this.. :1yikes:

good luck make looking forward to some pics!!

Everyone has made some very good points to take on board.

I have the same tank in my boat. It works very well now that I have set it up with a much larger drain outlet, that is now mounted lower than where they are standard.

I filled the standard skin fitting with silicone and put the tail toward the inside of the tank to seal the hole. Then I used a much larger skin fitting in the tank with a short length of hose to a reducer to the next size down pipe to a skin fitting exiting the rear of the boat. This helps with the air lock problem I had running the same size hose all the way through as I couldn't get enough fall to the outlet fitting through the hull.

As mentioned it fills up alot quicker whilst underway so I installed a plastic shut off tap in the supply line to turn it down a little if need be. It also allows an easy point to disconnect the hose from the tap and the reducer to take the tank out for cleaning and can be shut off if I want to run without the tank. I also glued a wire across the skin fitting in the tank to stop small squid and yakkas trying to exit the tank and getting stuck in the hose which happened more than once!

I ran a seal of thin hatch foam around the lid and put a rubber bung in the hole in the lid. Now when it closes it seals as when underway water sloshes around quite a bit and it use to spill everywhere.

It works a treat after some minor modifications through trial and error. Now I am in need a new pump after a mako bit mine off on the weekend!

Good luck hope some of this helped! Ill try put some pics up tomorrow if you like?

Mick.

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Thanks for all the advice given guys, i have taken it all on board.

I'm going to do some more researching and start tomorrow, i will keep you posted :)

Cheers

they are a nice livey tank but i found that it def needs a bigger overflow with grid to stop escapees...

i eventually gave mine to mate and made one out of 60 litre drum as overflow runs straight out over transom..

i use this venturi airator inlet as it airates the water going in... awesome bit of kit...

theres lots of ways to setup a livey tank so look around and see what fits best.....

cheers...steve.......

Edited by roosterman
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Everyone has made some very good points to take on board.

I have the same tank in my boat. It works very well now that I have set it up with a much larger drain outlet, that is now mounted lower than where they are standard.

I filled the standard skin fitting with silicone and put the tail toward the inside of the tank to seal the hole. Then I used a much larger skin fitting in the tank with a short length of hose to a reducer to the next size down pipe to a skin fitting exiting the rear of the boat. This helps with the air lock problem I had running the same size hose all the way through as I couldn't get enough fall to the outlet fitting through the hull.

As mentioned it fills up alot quicker whilst underway so I installed a plastic shut off tap in the supply line to turn it down a little if need be. It also allows an easy point to disconnect the hose from the tap and the reducer to take the tank out for cleaning and can be shut off if I want to run without the tank. I also glued a wire across the skin fitting in the tank to stop small squid and yakkas trying to exit the tank and getting stuck in the hose which happened more than once!

I ran a seal of thin hatch foam around the lid and put a rubber bung in the hole in the lid. Now when it closes it seals as when underway water sloshes around quite a bit and it use to spill everywhere.

It works a treat after some minor modifications through trial and error. Now I am in need a new pump after a mako bit mine off on the weekend!

Good luck hope some of this helped! Ill try put some pics up tomorrow if you like?

Mick.

Here is what I have done. It has treated me well over the last few years.

I mounted the motor on a piece of aluminium angle off the transducer bracket. I used a double ended barbed through hull fitting to run the supply line in.

post-12851-075961400 1312412041_thumb.jpg

This is a s low as I could get the outlet due to bracing inside the hull.

post-12851-009353900 1312412113_thumb.jpg

I used a much larger skin fitting lower than the original with an 'anti squid wire' glued in, i filled the original with silicone and pointed the tail toward the inside of the tank.

post-12851-042697300 1312412259_thumb.jpg

I added some foam hatch sealing strip to the inside of the lid and put a rubber bung in the hole as it leaks underway.

post-12851-022770300 1312412385_thumb.jpg

I used clear pipe for the inlet as its easier to disconnect from the tap. It is going a bit hard now after 3yrs.

post-12851-059927200 1312414056_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for the photos and info mate, i am seriously considering doing what you have done, looks really good ! i will keep you posted, how big is your bilge ?

No probs, It's just the standard johnson pump that came with the kit. Think I PM you the link to them? Its 450GPH (U.S gallons per hour). Its more than enough.

I have been through 3 pumps in about 3 or 4 years, 1 failed under warranty, 1 broke the impeller (might have sucked up something) and last weekend a mako took a liking to it and broke the mount. They are cheap though. They used to have a 3yr warrenty, not sure now though?

Happy to help if you have any other questions.

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No probs, It's just the standard johnson pump that came with the kit. Think I PM you the link to them? Its 450GPH (U.S gallons per hour). Its more than enough.

I have been through 3 pumps in about 3 or 4 years, 1 failed under warranty, 1 broke the impeller (might have sucked up something) and last weekend a mako took a liking to it and broke the mount. They are cheap though. They used to have a 3yr warrenty, not sure now though?

Happy to help if you have any other questions.

do you flush yr pump/impellor after each trip ?

i recon most failures are due to people forgetting to flush the bait pump...

i flush the bilge and bait pumps each time and have not had one fail yet....

food for thought... ive mentioned this to mates and its something easily overlooked...

cheers....steve......

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do you flush yr pump/impellor after each trip ?

i recon most failures are due to people forgetting to flush the bait pump...

i flush the bilge and bait pumps each time and have not had one fail yet....

food for thought... ive mentioned this to mates and its something easily overlooked...

cheers....steve......

Yea mate. wash the pump inside and out, all the hoses etc thoroughly every time. It has had a lot of use though. probably about 100 hrs. they are only cheap pumps at about $25. 1 has failed due to a mechanical failure of one of the impeller blades braking, ! due to a noisy bearing internally in the motor and one bitten off by a shark.

Good advice though, Thanks!

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do you flush yr pump/impellor after each trip ?

i recon most failures are due to people forgetting to flush the bait pump...

i flush the bilge and bait pumps each time and have not had one fail yet....

food for thought... ive mentioned this to mates and its something easily overlooked...

cheers....steve......

Steve Perhaps we're sliding a bit off topic but you raise a good point , especially with the bilge pump. I flush mine on a regular basis even though they had not been used on a particular outing.

This not only flushes but ensurs they are working OK

It's perhaps not uncommon for bilge pumps to be rarely used & the last thing we need is to flick the switch & find nothing happens.

As a back up I have two bilge pumps.

Geoff

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Thanks guys

Got the bilge pump and everything we need to do, have worked out a bigger overflow will be best and we are going to drill a hole though the side of the hull

Will keep you posted

Cheers

hey cutloose this is how mine came up i cut a hole through the side of my hull to

i reckon some people will frown upon this but i reckon its awesome and works great to

by the way i used a 3/4 inlet and 2 inch outlet just perfect

good luck mate

post-3171-075902700 1312678856_thumb.jpg

post-3171-025165800 1312678925_thumb.jpg

post-3171-025561800 1312679346_thumb.jpg

Edited by fishon
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