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Trailer advice


Fisherman36

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Hi all,

I have a 4.75m aluminium boat that I've had for a couple of years now. As I go out solo 99.9% of the time I have always used ropes to get it on and off the trailer. The ramps I use mainly (Apple Tree Bay and Roseville bridge) don't have jetties right along side the ramp, so to launch it consists of pushing the boat off the trailer, scramble up the rocks at the side of the ramp and pull the boat to the jetty. Retrieval is the reverse, push the boat out from the jetty, scramble down the rocks, and pull it to the trailer. This is ok when the ramp is quiet and it's not windy, but if it's busy or there is a slight breeze, it can be a real pain (I have sometimes had to use 2 ropes (front and back) if it is very windy). Because the jetties aren't right along side the ramp, the ropes I have to use are fairly long (15 - 20m) so I can push it out farther to stop the boat being blown/drifting back onto the rocks.

This is starting to hinder when I take it out, as I now try and avoid busy times or if it is windy, because I know it's going to be a pain. Being able to drive on and off the trailer would make things a lot easier and less stressful (I think).

The problem is, I am not sure if the trailer I have is designed for drive on and off (pics attached). The first roller is inline with the back of the trailer. A lot of boats I've seen have the first roller set further forward to form a "V" shape that guides the boat on. I've seen those "V" shape springy attachments you can buy to fit on the back of the trailer, but I'm not sure if they would help or not. The trailer has one set of rollers up the middle, and then skids along each side.

So, my questions are... Does anybody have a similar setup to mine that does drive on / off? I assume I would have to have the trailer sitting lower in the water to allow the bow to get over the first roller (currently I only sink it to just below the wheel bearings). If the trailer is not suited to drive on / off, is it possible to have the trailer modded? I am currently tossing the idea of upgrading to a bigger boat that will be setup to drive on and off, but in the mean time I want to get max use out of this boat which I know I am not getting because of the pain with the launch and retrieve.

Sorry for the long story!

Thanks for any advice,

Cheers

Garry

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Gary It is fair to say your trailer is not designed for drive on / off. As you mentioned , there is no guidence at the rear.

I think there are a few of the spring loaded systems around , one is called Ezi Guide which sell for around $140 or the Ezi Loader for $60

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I understand the Ezi Guide is very effective but the boat , even with trailers that are designed for drive on need to have the boat correctly lined up , ie straight by the time it is at least half way on otherwise the bow will skew off to on side.

In other words , any V system only works to get the bow lined up to the end of the trailer , not all the way to the winch post.

In essence this comes with practice & using the motor to make any correction to the allingment.

In respect to the trailer depth , it's a bit hard without seeing the rig but would estimate the boat needs to floating up to about a quarter , maybe a third of the way up the trailer.

As a guess , rear roller would need to be about 4" below the water.

Geoff

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Mate i've got a 4.1 and pretty much the same trailer design as you, We fitted the ezi-guide a few years back and now its easy to drive on and off the trailer, having said that, a couple months ago i went a little too fast and hit one of the guides too hard knocking it out of alignment, now it doesnt let the boat sit flush right away like it should, i have to wedge a bar between the hull and the unaligned \ roller to let it slip if you get what i mean.

I keep forgetting to fix it up when we get the boat off at the ramp, either too eager to jump in and go fishing or too tired after spending the day fishing lol.

Anyway, point is, Ezi guide, definately recommended and will do the job, just take it slow and steady. Perfect for going out on your own like i do most times

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Thanks Geoff and taleb87 for your replies.

Looks like the Ezi Guide system might be the way to go. I have looked at them before but I wasn't sure if they would help to make it a drive on / drive off trailer, but it looks like they will. I'll try and pick some up later in the week and fit them on the weekend if I have time.

Thanks again,

Garry

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Thanks Geoff, yeah they both look very similar.

A quick question. I just had the company that manufactures the Ezi Guide system email me the fitting instructions so I can see what's involved. It looks like the 2 skids that I have either side of the back roller (horizontal ones in the pics) may get in the way when trying to fit one of these systems. I think I may have to remove them and I'm guessing that the arms of the Ezi Guide or the Retreiver Mate will serve the same purpose as the current skids, so there should be no problem removing them. What do you think?

Thanks again.

Garry

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I think I may have to remove them and I'm guessing that the arms of the Ezi Guide or the Retreiver Mate will serve the same purpose as the current skids, so there should be no problem removing them. What do you think?

Thanks again.

Garry

Garry. I've not actually fitted one of these devices but it would appear the two side skids would need to removed along with the U shape mounting brackets.

This would require using an angle grinder.

This then raises the question of where to fit the device. Having the boat off the trailer is best but if you need power to operate the grinder or drill that's a bit of a problem at a boat ramp.

Perhaps drop it on the ground at home but that is easier said than done.

Can the winch post be moved forward or totally removed. If so move the boat forward 6" to 8" which should provide sufficient working space.

The other option is , leave the boat as is ,grind off the 4 brackets , drill the holes then fit the device at the ramp after launching.

Once your happy with opperation & position , you may want to consider burring the bolt threads of applying a dab of weld to prevent anyone pinching the device when out fishing.

Geoff

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The instructions with Ezyguide are very good, you have to move boat back on trailer so it over hangs the ezyguide rollers by around an inch, also you fit it at home without the springs to get correct location, then drill holes for brackets, fit the brackets without the rollers, then take boat down to ramp, launch boat, fit rollers and springs, reload boat and check, also when its fitted you on only back trailer in until rear roller is in the water, too deep and boat will just float make ezyguide less effective. ezyguide are cheapest through Bias, cheaper than online shops.

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I managed to duck out and pick up a set at lunch time today so I'll try and find time on the weekend to fit them.

Unfortunately I can't drop the boat off the trailer at home as I live in a unit, so I'll fit the brackets etc at home and then take it down to the ramp to fit the springs and guides.

Thanks again for everyon'es input, much appreciated.

Garry

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