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Posted

Hi guys,

I'm having problems with fish throwing my jigheads when fishing soft plastics. like today I was onto several flatties, and as I bring them closer to get into the net, they shake off. I don't think I have ever landed a fish yet on plastics. Hooks always get spat, which is annoying because I definitely get more hits with plastics than bait. Maybe I need smaller hooks, I have been using a 1/4 ounce jig which helps casting distance and keeps on the bottom for flatties, but the hook size is pretty big.

any tips?

Posted

Hook size shouldn't be a problem.

Most 1/4 jigheads use 1/0 or 2/0 hook size (unless they're light heads with huge hooks for pelagics),

so I would make sure they're sharp first!

Use a sharpening stone before you start casting AND after you catch a fish (they all get blunt after a chewin'!).

Maybe your rods are too soft... all SP work needs a nice crisp rod to drive the hook home (and for good casting).

And lastly, are you giving the rod a solid lift after the take to make sure it's on?

After that, keep a bend in the rod till you get him in the net, without letting them thrash aroud on the surface.

I would have more get-offs by flatties on deepwater paternoster rigs, where you can't feel the bite as well...

But sharp hooks are a good start!

Posted

Hook size shouldn't be a problem.

Most 1/4 jigheads use 1/0 or 2/0 hook size (unless they're light heads with huge hooks for pelagics),

so I would make sure they're sharp first!

Use a sharpening stone before you start casting AND after you catch a fish (they all get blunt after a chewin'!).

Maybe your rods are too soft... all SP work needs a nice crisp rod to drive the hook home (and for good casting).

And lastly, are you giving the rod a solid lift after the take to make sure it's on?

After that, keep a bend in the rod till you get him in the net, without letting them thrash aroud on the surface.

I would have more get-offs by flatties on deepwater paternoster rigs, where you can't feel the bite as well...

But sharp hooks are a good start!

thanks for the advice mate. my rod is pretty floppy at the tip. i dont tend to strike very hard, in fear ill pull the hook out of the fishes mouth. i just lift the rod and start reeling if a fish is on. ill keep practising and try setting the hooks better.

Posted

thanks for the advice mate. my rod is pretty floppy at the tip. i dont tend to strike very hard, in fear ill pull the hook out of the fishes mouth. i just lift the rod and start reeling if a fish is on. ill keep practising and try setting the hooks better.

By giving a firm pull after the initial bite sometimes it will pull free, but letting the lure drop again immediately will often force another strike from the fish.. and if it doesn't pull free you know you've got him nailed!

Don't try and pull the fishes head off as some blokes think necessary, but this is where a crisp graphite rod does the business, a short sharp lift combined with the rods action will hook him up.

You don't need a rod made for snapper or kings either (these 6-10kg rods need heavier lures to work correctly), a light 7' 3-5kg rod made for SP use is the go.

I use a 7' Starlo Stix Med Spin or an Okuma 6'6" travel rod with 6 or 10lb braid, 8 - 20lb leader.

Although they have a light tip they both buid up strength quickly thru the mid section of the rod, working well for bream, whiting, flatties and school jew.

But don't forget, SHARP HOOKS!!

Posted

Many hook/jighead manufacturers give you a good sharp hook out of the packet. But there are always going to be the odd blunt one. Take nothing for granted. Ensure your hook is sharp before you cast.

The following is a link to a good article on sharpening your hooks. http://saltwaterfishing.wordpress.com/2007/09/19/how-to-sharpen-your-fishing-hooks-the-first-point-of-contact-with-a-fish/

Even a slow tapered rod will help you set the hook, if it is sharp.

Cheers,

Nursie

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