Replacing Hub, brakes on my trailer

[cameldownunder]

Hi All

Since winter is coming fast, I am looking at a few maintenance projects for my boat / trailer

The question here is: I'be seen complete sets of Hub / Brakes / bearings and bolts available on the internet.

There are also quite a few video available in this matter.

Since the brakes and most of the parts around the weels seem pretty rosty, I was thinking of replacing the lot.

How hard is it to replace the Hub, Brakes, bearing?

Thanks

[Guest Aussie007]

should be easy

is it hydraulic or cable brakes?

[Geoff]

It's not difficult but can be a bit time consuming. If the routers are rusty then that indicates the brakes are not actualy working & replacing the routers will not fix the problem.

The problem is , the sleves on the caliper bolts have frozen preventing the pads to work properly.

Release the tension on the brake cable then remove the two bolts holding the caliper. This may be easier said than done as the bolts tend to freeze in place & may require considerable effort to remove.

Once removed , clean up the bolts , SS sleves & the housing then apply a liberal amount of marine greese ensuring they are moving freely.

Check the pads , they may need replacing. They are Holden Torana pads available from most spare parts places.

As for the rotors , if there is more than surface rust it's far less expensive to have them machined , rather than purchasing new routers.

Geoff

[Geoff]

One other point that comes to mind is correct brake adjustment. The normal or common practice is to adjust the bolt at the front , under the coupling however , as the pads ware the arm on the caliper that connects to the brake cable progressivly moves forward & on some trailers come in contact with the spring thereby preventing any more forward movement.

Release the cable , under the arm there is a large SS bolt & lock nut. Release the lock nut , screw the bolt in untill the arm is approx 90 degrees to the caliper , ie facing the center of the boat.

Tighten the lock nut , re connect the cable & make minor adjustment to the front adjustment bolt so the gap between the the coupling piston & the brake lever is around 2 - 3 mm.

Geoff