Paikea Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Saw the following drive on guides on a Trailer in Darwin recently, there were 4 trailers parked at the Alligator River Ramp and each one of them had these guides fitted. Anyone have them on their trailer? Cheers Paikea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Saw the following drive on guides on a Trailer in Darwin recently, there were 4 trailers parked at the Alligator River Ramp and each one of them had these guides fitted. Anyone have them on their trailer? IMG_2077.JPG Cheers Paikea Correct me if im wrong, but they look like painted 2×4 timber home made jobs. Heck if it does the job for those guys why not. I've been working on gathering some materials for some extra trailer protection,and a home made bow roller.I recently made a pair of adjustable guide posts for the back of the trailer to aid in backing with the boat off. I still need to attach teflon to the guides, mount my trailer lights to the tops,then attach to trailer. Cheers. Sent from my GT-I8730T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paikea Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Great idea, looking forward to seeing pics of the finished product. Cheers Paikea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paikea Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Correct me if im wrong, but they look like painted 2×4 timber home made jobs. Fab, I had another look at the Pic and agree with you that the guides appear to be timber covered in Blue Teflon. But the brackets that they are bolted onto are definitely welded onto the trailer frame. I like the idea of it and next time that I put the boat in the water I am going to see if it would work on my trailer. Maybe fitting removable guides that slip into the open end of the main trailer members (steel RHS) could be a go. Easily put in and taken off with no welding to the galvanised frame required. I will keep you informed. Cheers Paikea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aussie007 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 i like the amercian trailers or the trailers with serious boats on them are designed like this one, very simple to drive on and should provide a little friction so the drive off and on process is slowed down a little not like reversing down the ramp undoing your safety chain than undoing the winch and your boat flies off because u have rollers lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Correct me if im wrong, but they look like painted 2×4 timber home made jobs. Fab, I had another look at the Pic and agree with you that the guides appear to be timber covered in Blue Teflon. But the brackets that they are bolted onto are definitely welded onto the trailer frame. I like the idea of it and next time that I put the boat in the water I am going to see if it would work on my trailer. Maybe fitting removable guides that slip into the open end of the main trailer members (steel RHS) could be a go. Easily put in and taken off with no welding to the galvanised frame required. I will keep you informed. Cheers Paikea post-13881-0-88045900-1374785530_thumb1.jpg Paikea, Just an idea,If you weld the brackets for the supports for your guides to your existing trailer, bear in mind that you will need to grind the galvinising off the exterior of your trailer in prep for welding and burn through the galvanise internally which will lead to rust issues.Personally I would make the supports welded with a flat plate to mount them and have them galvanised then install with galvanised/stainless u bolts. No rust issues that way. Also watch when backing with them sticking out that far. Cheers. Sent from my GT-I8730T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paikea Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Here is another pic of the back of my trailer. The Rectangular Hollow Section steel tube that runs the full length of the Trailer looks like it could fit a smaller RHS tube inside it. That way, assuming that we can get the angles and heights right it would be a simple matter to slip the smaller tube into the main RHS tube when retrieving the boat and then simply pulling it out once the boat is fully on the trailer. Anyone have any thoughts on this idea? Cheers Paikea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocler Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Looking at the top pic, those look like the nylon blocks you can buy from a certain boating shop but I am sure you can buy them from anywhere as trailer parts and cut them to length. They just push the nose onto the self centering rollers along the trailer and then as you move forward they shuffle the hull across to make it sit straight. J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Here is another pic of the back of my trailer. The Rectangular Hollow Section steel tube that runs the full length of the Trailer looks like it could fit a smaller RHS tube inside it. That way, assuming that we can get the angles and heights right it would be a simple matter to slip the smaller tube into the main RHS tube when retrieving the boat and then simply pulling it out once the boat is fully on the trailer. Anyone have any thoughts on this idea? Cheers Paikea IMG_2215.JPG IMG_2214.JPG You will have to excuse my rushed drawing, but this is what I would do. I would fabricate a frame in the basic shape of a W that slides into the side rails and is stored underneath your exsisting trailer when not in use. When you want to retrieve your boat you simply slid it out and install your securing pins through the side rails to lock it into place. Once your done you simply slide it back under the trailer, lock the securing pins and off you go. Hopefully you can follow what i mean by my diagram. Cheers.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/18/aqyruqep.jpg[/img Sent from my GT-I8730T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batfishing Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Pakiea, honestly you don't need them, 30 minutes with me at the boat ramp and you will be a changed man. I will do it on a weekday. Then put your money into a boat latch. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dfishin Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Pakiea Your Trailer is already a drive on, Drive off trailer. You wont damage the boat mate. Hit the V anywhere between the back 2 rollers and it will center and drive on. If your having trouble with controlling the boat while driving it onto the trailer IE cant steer it onto the trailer. The biggest mistake most people make that have trouble steering the boat onto the trailer is pulling the boat out of gear too early. Give yourself plenty of room well back off the ramp to get lined straight up with the trailer. keep it lined up straight you only need to drive at an Idle but dont take the boat out of gear. As soon as you knock it into neutral your boat will float where it wants to go. So keep it in forward until you actually hit the rolloers. You can knock it out into neutral just at the point of contact to soften the contact. Then straight back into forward to hold it there, line it up straight, bit of power and up it will go. Give it a go and start enjoying your time on the water. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paikea Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 Fab, I could not open your drawing, could you please send again. Ian, I do intend to take you up on your kind offer. Maybe next week if suitable to you and Jocler. Dave, thank you for your input. I do believe that I have been too timid but I hate the thought of knocking the boat around. I have seen quite a number of boaties driving their boats on down at Ulladulla and some of them had gouges out of the gel coat. That is what puts me off. But willing to learn from experts. Cheers Paikea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Fab, I could not open your drawing, could you please send again. Ian, I do intend to take you up on your kind offer. Maybe next week if suitable to you and Jocler. Dave, thank you for your input. I do believe that I have been too timid but I hate the thought of knocking the boat around. I have seen quite a number of boaties driving their boats on down at Ulladulla and some of them had gouges out of the gel coat. That is what puts me off. But willing to learn from experts. Cheers Paikea I would make up this cradle that slides in/out from under the trailer. It would obviously have teflon strips attached and set to the height of your rear rollers. Like I said its only a rough drawing done in a hurry last night at work to give you an idea. Sent from my GT-I8730T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batfishing Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 My Sig when I sold it 3years ago, I drove it on the trailer for 7 years. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berleyguts Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Pakiea Your Trailer is already a drive on, Drive off trailer. You wont damage the boat mate. Hit the V anywhere between the back 2 rollers and it will center and drive on. If your having trouble with controlling the boat while driving it onto the trailer IE cant steer it onto the trailer. The biggest mistake most people make that have trouble steering the boat onto the trailer is pulling the boat out of gear too early. Give yourself plenty of room well back off the ramp to get lined straight up with the trailer. keep it lined up straight you only need to drive at an Idle but dont take the boat out of gear. As soon as you knock it into neutral your boat will float where it wants to go. So keep it in forward until you actually hit the rolloers. You can knock it out into neutral just at the point of contact to soften the contact. Then straight back into forward to hold it there, line it up straight, bit of power and up it will go. Give it a go and start enjoying your time on the water. Dave Yes, that has worked for me and I am only a novice at driving on. Idle speed in gear, neutral momentarily to soften the impact, then a bit of power to get it up so it stays. So far, I don't drive it all the way up... just enough so it sits still for me, so I can climb out and winch it the rest of the way. A bit of a compromise but I'm cautious. Baz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paikea Posted September 22, 2014 Author Share Posted September 22, 2014 Thanks Fab for your drawing, seems a good idea if I cannot master the existing set up. Intending to have a lesson with IAN asap, will post how I get on. Cheers Paikea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Thanks Fab for your drawing, seems a good idea if I cannot master the existing set up. Intending to have a lesson with IAN asap, will post how I get on. Cheers Paikea No worries mate, good luck with Ian.Sent from my GT-I8730T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 The design is one aspect , the depth of the trailer in the water can be equally important. To much & the boat will drift all over the place , too little places a lot of strain both on the boat & trailer. For interest , on my boat , the rear blue roller in the below photo needs to be just below the water Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paikea Posted September 22, 2014 Author Share Posted September 22, 2014 The design is one aspect , the depth of the trailer in the water can be equally important. To much & the boat will drift all over the place , too little places a lot of strain both on the boat & trailer. For interest , on my boat , the rear blue roller in the below photo needs to be just below the water gallion 005 No. II.jpg Geoff Thanks Geoff, I have been wondering as to what is the correct depth to have the trailer at. The times that I have tried driving on I had the back of the trailer well under water. maybe that has been my problem. Cheers Paikea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolongeramember Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 I'll second that. The depth you reverse up to on the trailer has a massive bearing on how well (or not) the boat can be driven on. Too deep and the boat will not catch the rollers properly and too shallow is no good either. Most common mistake is reversing in too far. Maybe try with the rear most roller about 150mm under and see how it goes from there. Paikea, Check your inbox. I set you a PM yonks ago, I don't think you have read it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batfishing Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Yep, too many people go too deep Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paikea Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Paikea, Check your inbox. I set you a PM yonks ago, I don't think you have read it yet. Hi Roylo, is that the one about Tectyl? Cheers Paikea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolongeramember Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Yep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolongeramember Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 I just thought of a good way to work out how deep to go. When you put the boat in, see the water level where the rear of the boat just takes the weight off but doesn't lift up. That should be pretty close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paikea Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Thanks Roylo, and thanks for the heads up on Tectyl. Cheers Paikea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now